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1/3000 SDF-1 lightly weathered vs. 1/2000 SDF-1 customized

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Hi all, my original thread of the 1/2000 SDF-1 was originally posted in the "toy" forum, but since all the 1/3000 SDF-1 mod are posted here, I may as well do so. Also, I am hoping that this thread will be pinned, so that my SDF-1 customization can have a home.

For the original thread on the built up, modification, and reference on the "1/2000 SDF-1 Customized", here is the link:

http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=33243&st=0


For the 1/3000 SDF-1, I must admit, I haven't spend nearly as much time on it as the 1/2000 SDF-1. The 1/3000 SDF-1 was only lightly lined and weathered, but you will see, this toy has lots of potential! Hopefully the comparison will be another useful reference. For those who have seen the old thread, these are all new pictures (taken with my new camera), and it seems to pick up the details better. I have divided up the sections as such:

1.) 1/3000 SDF-1 - Crusier mode
2.) 1/2000 SDF-1 - Crusier mode
3.) 1/3000 vs 1/2000 SDF-1 - Crusier mode Comparison
4.) 1/3000 SDF-1 - Attacker mode
5.) 1/2000 SDF-1 - Attacker mode
6.) 1/3000 vs 1/2000 SDF-1 - Attacker mode Comparison

Here are the sections, enjoy!

1.) 1/3000 SDF-1 - Crusier mode

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Edited by EXO

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3.) 1/3000 vs 1/2000 SDF-1 - Crusier mode Comparison

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Edited by vf_1s

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4.) 1/3000 SDF-1 - Attacker mode

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Edited by vf_1s

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5.) 1/2000 SDF-1 - Attacker mode

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Edited by vf_1s

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6.) 1/3000 vs 1/2000 SDF-1 - Attacker mode Comparison

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Edited by vf_1s

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Wow!!! all I can just say is wow, but after looking at these pictures I can say that I am happy that I got the 1/3000th scale at a reseasonable price and size. The 1/2000 would be a bit too much for me and price is bit hard to swallow. But kudo's to you on getting both of these, and great work on the weathering, looks like it's been through a rough battle with the Zentreadi. Are you going to put 01 and 02 on the 1/3000?:)

Edited by VF-18S Hornet

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Wow!!! all I can just say is wow, but after looking at these pictures I can say that I am happy that I got the 1/3000th scale at a reseasonable price and size. The 1/2000 would be a bit too much for me and price is bit hard to swallow. But kudo's to you on getting both of these, and great work on the weathering, looks like it's been through a rough battle with the Zentreadi. Are you going to put 01 and 02 on the 1/3000?:)

Thanks. I probably will do a bit more detailing in the future, and will put on the 01 and 02 at that time. But at the moment, I am a bit busy, so that's it for the next little while.

Thanks again!

Edited by vf_1s

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I need to put aside a weekend to weather my SDF-1.

It definitely won't look as good as yours though.

BTW. Do you have any tips for a decent wash?

I've only used a GM-02 Gundam Marker before.

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I need to put aside a weekend to weather my SDF-1.

It definitely won't look as good as yours though.

BTW. Do you have any tips for a decent wash?

I've only used a GM-02 Gundam Marker before.

Thank you. I really shouldn't take too much credit for the 1/3000 SDF-1 toy, as I really didn't spend that much time on it. It was just something simple to make the toy less plasticky. It is the 1/2000 SDF-1 that I am most happy with. But now that I have the 1/3000, I will probably play with the toy more, because I will be less heart broken if I scratch it.

Anyway, the oil wash technique that MW Cheng taught in his thread gives the best result. Also, "Promodellers Weathering wash" and gundam markers are among my favorites too because of the ease of use.

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How did you do the caution stripes on the exit ports of the ARMD and do you think it would be feasible to duplicate on the 1/3000 version? I want to do that on mine but the only way I can think of is possibly making the stripes myself on the computer and printing them out on decal paper.

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Wow! The fun never ends with SDF-1!!

It's so awesome to see both scales side by side!

Always great inspiration! Both you and wm cheng! :D

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How did you do the caution stripes on the exit ports of the ARMD and do you think it would be feasible to duplicate on the 1/3000 version? I want to do that on mine but the only way I can think of is possibly making the stripes myself on the computer and printing them out on decal paper.

That is exactly how I did it, just make sure you paint the exit ports white first before your put on the decal, because the yellow cannot cover the grey. Another way to do it is to print it on label stickers, this way, the paper is thick enough to cover the background color. Only thing is now that the paper is thicker, you can really bend them around the corners, so you have to cut to the exact length.

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Nice.....but now I have size envy....:lol:.....:blink:.....:(......:lol:

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Since you actually have a comparison of the 1/3000 vs the 1/2000.....ok fine. It just might be worth pinning.

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Since you actually have a comparison of the 1/3000 vs the 1/2000.....ok fine. It just might be worth pinning.

Wow!!! thank you so much! you made my day!

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That is exactly how I did it, just make sure you paint the exit ports white first before your put on the decal, because the yellow cannot cover the grey. Another way to do it is to print it on label stickers, this way, the paper is thick enough to cover the background color. Only thing is now that the paper is thicker, you can really bend them around the corners, so you have to cut to the exact length.

Awesome, thanks. I ordered Testor's custom decal kit which includes a couple sheets of clear and white decal paper so I think I'll print the stripes on the white decal sheet so I can skip the white paint. Looking at the edges of the 1/3000 ARMD's ports, that's still going to be a real challenge as they are very thin. Hopefully I will manage.

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Awesome, thanks. I ordered Testor's custom decal kit which includes a couple sheets of clear and white decal paper so I think I'll print the stripes on the white decal sheet so I can skip the white paint. Looking at the edges of the 1/3000 ARMD's ports, that's still going to be a real challenge as they are very thin. Hopefully I will manage.

you got it. Oh, and one last trick, when you are done putting on the decals, use a black gundam marker, and trace it around the edge of the gate. It blends in the decal alot better to the "grey gate" in the back.

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The little red, white and yellow highlights make a HUGE difference in how the 2000 looks compared to the 3000. Obviously the cost of the 3000 would skyrocket if they painted all of that additional detail but it would make it look a lot less plain against that color scheme.

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In the name of Holly Macross, I've put all images in a single file and uploaded it in order to save your precious lunch break :lol:

1/3000 SDF-1 vf_1s Custom

I hope you are not mad at me vf_1s?

Nope, not at all. The more I can share this with others, the better. Thanks for taking the time to upload it. Howcome when I click on the link, it doesn't work?

The little red, white and yellow highlights make a HUGE difference in how the 2000 looks compared to the 3000. Obviously the cost of the 3000 would skyrocket if they painted all of that additional detail but it would make it look a lot less plain against that color scheme.

I agree, this, to me, is one of the most effective modification.

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Nope, not at all. The more I can share this with others, the better. Thanks for taking the time to upload it. Howcome when I click on the link, it doesn't work?

I've checked the link, it's working so far

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I've checked the link, it's working so far

Thanks. Must be the firewall at work...

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Did you wind up using a primer on the 1/2000 macross? Yamato had promoted it as not requiring that step [due in part to the surface texture(?)].

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Did you wind up using a primer on the 1/2000 macross? Yamato had promoted it as not requiring that step [due in part to the surface texture(?)].

I didn't. They already had it primed. But also, they have alot of places that were over done to the point where the transparent primer becomes white. In those cases, I have to re-do it myself.

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I didn't. They already had it primed. But also, they have alot of places that were over done to the point where the transparent primer becomes white. In those cases, I have to re-do it myself.

Thanks for the heads up. I'm getting ready to paint mine now.

So that powdery residue (especially evident on the darker pieces) is primer? I thought perhaps it was a form of mold realease. Thats good to know. To remove the excess, did you sand or scub or what? Thanks again.

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Awesome workmanship, I wish I had the skills to make my 1/3000 look 1/2 as good as yours :)

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Thanks for the heads up. I'm getting ready to paint mine now.

So that powdery residue (especially evident on the darker pieces) is primer? I thought perhaps it was a form of mold realease. Thats good to know. To remove the excess, did you sand or scub or what? Thanks again.

The residue primer was very hard to get off. It was super hard. I used 2000 wet sand paper. on more delicate parts, I use thinner. The good thing about these resin is that thinner doesn't melt it. Good luck!

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Man that 1/2000 is totally massive. I've seen it before in person but those comparison shots are amazing.

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I am seriously blown away by the 1/2000.

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if you can do a stop motion video this in transformation that would be so sweet :)

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