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Build 1 VF-1, You've Built 5000 - A 1/48 Hasegawa VF-1A Valkyrie [5Grand Anniversary] Build!


Rock

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__vf_1_sdf_1_daedalus_and_prometheus_macross_and_1_more_drawn_by_tenjin_hidetaka__870b0cf1fd98e80058772691e1d8fb33.jpg.36bb447964664c06e74f8d38f026cfda.jpg

Hello, today I am starting on my VF-1A "5Grand" A special livery used to celebrate the 5000th Valkyrie to cross the production line. The livery is a 1-off and ultimately painted over before the unit was sent into combat.  This 'should be' a quick mental health build in between workings of a much larger project I'm focusing on. It will also serve a a test bed for trying out a few new finish techniques in the paint department, and a few little other things along the way!

Lets start with what makes run of the mill VF-1a kit special... the decals! Beautifully printed white, navy blue and gold! A very clean and striking color combo that would make even commander Golg Boddole Zer blush! It's a very modern color way than what is traditionally seen on the VF-1 Valkyrie. The larger sections of color breaking up more of the white really modernize the VF-1 and helped me appreciate it more without the fancy packs. The large color splash around the cockpit calling to a more IRL NAVY aircraft such as VF-123 Black Lions' F-14D! I adore this color combo, it's a shame the decals (mostly) won't be used! Masking hell it is, Yack!
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Quick look a Hidetaka Tenjin's lovely artwork for the kit.

20240419_194125.jpg.c61ca8e5650464df32e06b35b3b85695.jpg

I really want to mimic the textures used in his artwork here, so a weathered... yet clean build it is! Semigloss sheen metallic weathering, a new one for me.

The main reason I don't want to use the decals is the navy blue. The decals are just not the look I'm going for. In Tenjin's artwork, the blue gives off a almost candy finish with depth projecting a similar refraction as the gold does. The decals just look dead or flat, even when painted on Hasegawa's sample build. It looks okay in 1/72, but at 1/48 we can do better! That however, is still a ways away, not to get ahead of ourselves.
s-l1600.webp.27c128ff386003b72492e1a3fc9cc466.webp

---
Starting with the cockpit. Everything fit smoothly with minimal issues. My main focus was getting the assemblies together cleanly and glued. I really want to be able to go minimal on the filler, primers and paints as Hasegawa's nearly 10 year old kit is already not a sharply molded as I hoped. The original 1/48 VF-1a [Vermillion] was released in 2010 after all.  

20240419_215407.jpg.cbef3d5f912a797f256f21321634faa0.jpg

I was a bit worried the TV version of Hikaru/Pilot wasn't going to fit well due to it's age. With a bit of trimming and finesse, I was able to get the extremities where they needed to rest in the seat and the flight-stick didn't end up too out of place.
20240419_215416.jpg.366a9251b5e4c5f2dc344456fa3fe7e6.jpg
The TV version of the pilot. I think this is probably the only time I'll be building a non-DYRL pilot so I feel happy leaving him as-is. I think the only adjustments I'll be making is adding some definition to his arms/legs and fabricating a harness. I'm unsure if I'll go for the traditional pilot colors or try to spice it up to match the 5grand livery! 
 

20240419_215949.jpg.a80c71a9f52f9604f7f8538050398863.jpg
For the front controls console, I found it easiest to build it on the runner. I've pretty much left the cockpit in 3 assemblies. The pilot/seat, the cockpit tub, and the front display. This is enough to allow me to detail it without having too many loose parts. With a closed cockpit build, it doesn't need to be 10/10 anyways.
20240419_215440.jpg.05e28e249e1fb427f5908bb539f2dbc5.jpg20240419_220147.jpg.1a764202cd089708eb6544fedd3087b8.jpg Unsure how I'll approach the cockpit going forward. I do have a set of Hase's photo etch, but do still intend to keep them for the Super/Strike build whenever I get to it. I think I may take a simpler approach and just rely on detail painting and a little bit of freehand scratch-building modification to make it a bit more interesting. I've yet to pull up references from the 1/20 kits or artwork so we'll see.

 

Don't touch that dial!

 

Edited by Rock
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6 hours ago, Urashiman said:

Hehe, cool man!

I wonder: why is there the joystick in the middle? I always thought the stick is on the right hand panel.

If you notice, it’s not connected. Hikaru broke it and he’s gonna crash……..again 

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2 hours ago, pengbuzz said:

We've never noticed a joystick on the SDF-1, so I'm afraid you've lost us there. 🙄

The episode where Gloval steers the SDF-1 with the joystick and eludes thousands of Zentran missiles was arguably the best episode of the series....;)

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18 hours ago, Rock said:

 

__vf_1_sdf_1_daedalus_and_prometheus_macross_and_1_more_drawn_by_tenjin_hidetaka__870b0cf1fd98e80058772691e1d8fb33.jpg.36bb447964664c06e74f8d38f026cfda.jpg

Hello, today I am starting on my VF-1A "5Grand" A special livery used to celebrate the 5000th Valkyrie to cross the production line. The livery is a 1-off and ultimately painted over before the unit was sent into combat.  This 'should be' a quick mental health build in between workings of a much larger project I'm focusing on. It will also serve a a test bed for trying out a few new finish techniques in the paint department, and a few little other things along the way!

Lets start with what makes run of the mill VF-1a kit special... the decals! Beautifully printed white, navy blue and gold! A very clean and striking color combo that would make even commander Golg Boddole Zer blush! It's a very modern color way than what is traditionally seen on the VF-1 Valkyrie. The larger sections of color breaking up more of the white really modernize the VF-1 and helped me appreciate it more without the fancy packs. The large color splash around the cockpit calling to a more IRL NAVY aircraft such as VF-123 Black Lions' F-14D! I adore this color combo, it's a shame the decals (mostly) won't be used! Masking hell it is, Yack!
20240419_194654.jpg.c9ba6e967b10c8c4a1367b4193b8531c.jpg

Quick look a Hidetaka Tenjin's lovely artwork for the kit.

20240419_194125.jpg.c61ca8e5650464df32e06b35b3b85695.jpg

I really want to mimic the textures used in his artwork here, so a weathered... yet clean build it is! Semigloss sheen metallic weathering, a new one for me.

The main reason I don't want to use the decals is the navy blue. The decals are just not the look I'm going for. In Tenjin's artwork, the blue gives off a almost candy finish with depth projecting a similar refraction as the gold does. The decals just look dead or flat, even when painted on Hasegawa's sample build. It looks okay in 1/72, but at 1/48 we can do better! That however, is still a ways away, not to get ahead of ourselves.
s-l1600.webp.27c128ff386003b72492e1a3fc9cc466.webp

---
Starting with the cockpit. Everything fit smoothly with minimal issues. My main focus was getting the assemblies together cleanly and glued. I really want to be able to go minimal on the filler, primers and paints as Hasegawa's nearly 10 year old kit is already not a sharply molded as I hoped. The original 1/48 VF-1a [Vermillion] was released in 2010 after all.  

20240419_215407.jpg.cbef3d5f912a797f256f21321634faa0.jpg

I was a bit worried the TV version of Hikaru/Pilot wasn't going to fit well due to it's age. With a bit of trimming and finesse, I was able to get the extremities where they needed to rest in the seat and the flight-stick didn't end up too out of place.
20240419_215416.jpg.366a9251b5e4c5f2dc344456fa3fe7e6.jpg
The TV version of the pilot. I think this is probably the only time I'll be building a non-DYRL pilot so I feel happy leaving him as-is. I think the only adjustments I'll be making is adding some definition to his arms/legs and fabricating a harness. I'm unsure if I'll go for the traditional pilot colors or try to spice it up to match the 5grand livery! 
 

20240419_215949.jpg.a80c71a9f52f9604f7f8538050398863.jpg
For the front controls console, I found it easiest to build it on the runner. I've pretty much left the cockpit in 3 assemblies. The pilot/seat, the cockpit tub, and the front display. This is enough to allow me to detail it without having too many loose parts. With a closed cockpit build, it doesn't need to be 10/10 anyways.
20240419_215440.jpg.05e28e249e1fb427f5908bb539f2dbc5.jpg20240419_220147.jpg.1a764202cd089708eb6544fedd3087b8.jpg Unsure how I'll approach the cockpit going forward. I do have a set of Hase's photo etch, but do still intend to keep them for the Super/Strike build whenever I get to it. I think I may take a simpler approach and just rely on detail painting and a little bit of freehand scratch-building modification to make it a bit more interesting. I've yet to pull up references from the 1/20 kits or artwork so we'll see.

 

Don't touch that dial!

 

Awesome! Looking forward to more !

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Posted (edited)
On 4/20/2024 at 2:23 AM, Urashiman said:

Hehe, cool man!

I wonder: why is there the joystick in the middle? I always thought the stick is on the right hand panel.

DYRL VS TV. TV also has a 3-piece console screen and a physical HUD instead of everything being projected on the canopy/helmet directly.




--

 

Let the game begin. I couldn't find many good references for the cockpit. In SDFM it varied greatly from scene to scene. I just cherry picked a few key details from the line art to give the eye something interesting. Leftover gunpla, kotobukiya bits, copper wire, and metal HiQ parts proved useful. I was really concerned about filling the dead space around the rear of the seat. 

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The pilot got a little trimming to define the legs and upper arms a bit more, and a little Mr. Disolved Putty was brushed onto the joints to hide the seams.  I've been relying on this product a bit more than Mr. Surfacer 500 brushed out of the bottle. For small pinpoint applications it goes down smoother and sands quicker. The shoulder seam received a little bit more of a liberal application because this pilot has been hitting the gym!
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Afterwards off to a coat of Mr. Surfacer 1500 and a quick check to make sure nothing would get in the way of the nose halves sealing. All good... though the panel lines on the 2 halves conveniently don't meet. For later.
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Now onto colors.l! I decided to go with the OOB pilot colors. I used Mr. Color 328 for the blue. This is the same blue that is to be used on the valkyrie's markings. For the pilot, I really like the color.
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I'm trying out a new (to me) product. Micromark's Micro Mask! I tend to use Mr. Masking Sol Neo but, have never been too fond of using it for small areas as it tends to have elasticity. That same latex-like elasticity fights you during toothpick and brush applications. Micro Mask is easier to apply with a thinner consistency closer to dish soap. 

Anyways, the top of the helmet was masked up and a quick spray of of Mr. Color's 311 white was applied. It's an off-white (yellow/tan + white) that is recommended to use on the body of the valkyrie too. This is my first time seeing the 2 colors together in person.

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The cockpit was painted with Mr. Color 13, letting some of the black primer show through for the shadows towards the bottom. I wanted to see if the decals were even worth attempting... even with Solveset, they were not. However, they did give me a taste of the direction I would end up heading.
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Having the bold colored decals on the gray really helped sell the direction I wanted to take with the cockpit's colors.  A very early SDFM inspired scheme focusing on bold contrasting primary colors. A nice break from the metallic paints I've been using for everything lately. 

So, I grabbed the brush, toothpick, and began basing in my color selections. Some trained bridge bunnies may notice that some areas not fully painted in. This is because I am only concerned with getting the basic down before seeing what will end up hidden when I get around to panel lining and washes.

I'm debating whether to try a blue or green filter over the aircraft gray to make it look more like the animation's coloring.

Not sure if that will clash with what's to come. Top left!
20240420_174650.jpg.21bd33bf61f7b3e9097962af59f9c094.jpg 

 

Edited by Rock
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Not much movement. Got the initial wash done and have continued to sharpen up the cockpit. Everything else is a little more complicated...
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I hand brushed my base colors onto the pilot. The Micro Mask masking film was a total bust, the edges came out horribly. (Just look at the top back of the helmet.) Going forward I will continue hand painting the details on the suit and try to sharpen everything up. I imagine I'll then do another wash, spray a flat coat, drybrush over everything, and a 2k gloss coating on the the helmet. I want to respray the gold bits to help even them out and see if I can get them to pop a bit more.

  For the visor I used a Moltov chrome paint pen. I did not get a very good result. I don't really feel like masking the visor off but, I think I will have to redo the chrome with the airbrush and then apply a candy blue/green for the tint. I do have some HiQParts aurora film that is commonly used on camera lens and eye details for Gundam model kits that I've also wanted to try, I'm not sure if I can cleanly apply it to such a small convex shape. 

 

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Aurora film was a miss, could only find Mirage and regular green films. Ordered some blue mirage that should be here next week!

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Glossing over the clear parts, the next step was the nose. Sadly, as I hinted before, the 2 halves simply were a miss. Therefore some putty/sanding work was needed to get the parts aligned.

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I used Tritool's PE scribing saws to restore the panel lines before a final round of Mr. Surfacer 1500 was sprayed and imperfections were checked. A final wet sand using 600 grit was completed.

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From here I straight assembled the nose's remaing details, landing gear and bay doors. Everything nicely fitted and glued with the exception of the landing gear leg itself so I can paint/detail the bay at a later date.

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Plamax nose cone anyone?

20240427_232157.jpg.699d9da07d387fb426f71365d59b4236.jpg

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Not feeling the chrome, I repainted the helmet's visor lightly with some titanium. I was hoping for a better finish similar to the irridecent look of a modern F35 pilot's helmet. Better but, not quite there. Then the HiQ Parts' Aurora Blue film I was waiting for showed up!
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I then went to applying the film. If your wondering what this product is like, picture a piece of clear scotch tape with an effect on it. Anyways, Aurora Blue to visor, and Aurora Green to the heads up display!

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Aurora films are transparent when viewed head on, but have a iridescent-like color sheen when viewed from an angle. It's not as noticeable as the Mirage series of films which slightly change color, and even harder to photograph. Let's try!
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With that done there is just one more task left to get the glass down on the bird... In typical fashion, our pilot is sitting just a bit too high to get the canopy into place! An ass-ectomy operation was needed!
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And with that, (with some help of Ultra Glue,) The canopy is sealed! I went with the more bubble-shaped of the 2 options included with the kit... the one with the giant mold line down the middle. Guess what we'll be fixing next time?!
20240501_213303.jpg.f9f870e7f21765c2176fbbaa7d183983.jpg

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