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What is lying on your workbench?


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Cool, thanks Thor! I think I'll put the swimsuit Minmay in amongst my 1/24 car collection! :)

As far as fixing the purple, I think I'll just paint over the existing mess and go from there :) It has all been sealed by clear laquer anyway.

Kylwell, thanks for the info. I have a FM X-Wing in the closet and a lot of 5 MPC kits inbound from TN (thanks eBay). Looking forward to their arrival.

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Does anyone know what scales the MPC AT-ST, Y-Wing and Shuttle are please? I've heard the Y-Wing is around 1/100(ish)?

Mark

the AT/ST fits in around 1/48, the shutle is suggested aroind 1/72 and the y-wing is1/96-1/100 scale.

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Kylwell - Nice cannon whatever they're going on???

Shiyao - The Dom looks good, but on the "Clean" side. If you do use a diorama, just make sure it's not "dirty." The Dom will not look like it is supposed to be there. Keep it up! - MT

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It's the Crest from Armored Core. TSP has it right.

Would have gotten more done today but ran outta paint. So instead I built the placement diagram for teh Prototype Amabssador Class decals and worked on some schemes for my MaK Falke.

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Nice "metal work" Kylwell. Chromed or bottle?

GSI Gundam Plated Silver marker.

Yes, the chrome comes from a marker. Still freaks me out.

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I get a >>seamline alert<< from the left back weapon joint. But overall, this looks cool. I think I'll buy the upcoming AC4 unit next year.

-i-

If that's the only seam you see I'm doing well.

Did very little seam clean-up on this one. Didn't feel like my usual anal-retentive seam cleaning.

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Retppu's 1/72 VF-11 soft vinyl kit.

Tamiya's 1/35 Tiger I with all the photo-etched parts, zimmerit coating and ModelKasten tracks, although have not started on the tracks. The thought of this task has been good enough to keep the project incomplete for 6 months now.

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Retppu's 1/72 VF-11 soft vinyl kit.

Tamiya's 1/35 Tiger I with all the photo-etched parts, zimmerit coating and ModelKasten tracks, although have not started on the tracks. The thought of this task has been good enough to keep the project incomplete for 6 months now.

It's akin to 'analysis paralysis', right? You buy nice fruit to go with a nice kit but don't start because you want to be sure you do a great job... and that won't happen unless you are already skilled or do lots of practice...!? :)

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Retppu's 1/72 VF-11 soft vinyl kit.

Tamiya's 1/35 Tiger I with all the photo-etched parts, zimmerit coating and ModelKasten tracks, although have not started on the tracks. The thought of this task has been good enough to keep the project incomplete for 6 months now.

That tamiya tiger is so inferior now. Im sure your build is good but the new tigers by DML make the tamiya one look like a 70s issue kit. Plus the DML tracks are friction fit which means you can press them together, shape them and then run liquid cement on the links. They also come with formers to get the right "sit" on the drive sproket and idler.

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My current projects are the 1/72 VF-O Battroid kit, the Wave VF-0S kit, and a scratch build project that I started while at sea.

How do you guys handle curve missile hatches? Do you cut them out square and sand them to shape or try and cut out a curve and sand? I ask because its a big part of my project.

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My current projects are the 1/72 VF-O Battroid kit, the Wave VF-0S kit, and a scratch build project that I started while at sea.

How do you guys handle curve missile hatches? Do you cut them out square and sand them to shape or try and cut out a curve and sand? I ask because its a big part of my project.

Round hatch or square hatch on a curbed surface? Or just a oblate circular hole?

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Round hatch or square hatch on a curbed surface? Or just a oblate circular hole?

The hatch will be 8.6 mm long x 8.6 mm wide with the base of the hatch curved. I guess you can call it a square with one side having a curve. I'm trying to figure out the best way to cut. The hatches will be open and firing missiles. I've already made a prototype for a visual reference but the next one will have the open hatches.

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The hatch will be 8.6 mm long x 8.6 mm wide with the base of the hatch curved. I guess you can call it a square with one side having a curve. I'm trying to figure out the best way to cut. The hatches will be open and firing missiles. I've already made a prototype for a visual reference but the next one will have the open hatches.

Ah like a boomer missile hatch. I'd try cutting the hole in the hull first then shape and fit the hatch to the hole.

Or, if you are really tricky you might be able to use some micro saws to carefully trim it out and then fill and sand to fit.

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Great weathering Kylwell. It doesn't look "PC gamey" anymore.

Neptunesurvey, another trick (if I'm picturing your description right) is to scribe the base of the hatch with a fine scribe until it seperates. It takes a while, but you'll have less sanding. - MT

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I just try to keep the paint egde as sharp as possible and make sure the wash is the last thing i do . The wash helps to even out the lines around the dials. Its an old trick i picked up LONG ago.

For those wondering that is the stock kit cockpit. No aftermarket parts were used.

Edited by HWR MKII
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If you liked that youll love this. Preshading and base paint done. Next will be camo and details. then wash and paint chips.

HWR, what exactly did you do there? I'm guess a very bright (white?) primer coat, followed by air-brushing black over the panel lines, and then spraying over that with your base color. How do you keep the black visible through the top layer? When I've tried to do something like that, I end up covering up too much of the underlying black panel lines :(

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