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Everything posted by HWR MKII

  1. must have macross zero version. My destroid collection is not complete without Cheyenne
  2. Still applying decals. this thing has a ton
  3. The yellow is all decals
  4. Recently finished this Academy 1/72 OV 10 A. I added alot of detail to the cockpit
  5. A SV 51 i picked up from the IPMS Nationals from a MW member who had a stall there
  6. 19 inches tall and ready for paint.
  7. Battroid version now in progress.
  8. What Arbit said. You dont always need photoetch and resin to make a nice model.
  9. im slowly getting back. things have been a roller coaster from hell for me.
  10. thanks guys. another VF-0 coming soon too
  11. Yes i am . Still some more finishing work and other effects to add. I also ran out of dull coat.
  12. Paint, clearcoat and decals applied. now some weathering and dullcoat.
  13. After a very turbulent 2 years and alot of other stuff i managed to finish the Battroid kit my wife got for me back on christmas of 2013....Hasegawa kit straight out of the box. nothing fancy as far as finish or anything.
  14. They are out of production Moscato resin kits.
  15. Amazon.com has alot of macross kits listed. Bandai and hasegawa and good prices. I trust Amazon more than ebay to be able to get my goods these days as well.
  16. not worth it. its juuuust strong enough to work on your nails. Not strong enough for resin or plastic.
  17. Amazon.com had low vis valks listed. Look there first and save money and frustration.
  18. Yes Macross models for christmas. Wife got me a VF-1S Strike Battroid!
  19. most important watch your fingers. I had the body swivel down on the leg pivots. Almost broke my fingers like a pair of blunt shears. This thing is gangerously heavy.
  20. It could also be that your auto paints are too "hot" and are reactivating the Mr Surfacer causing it to lift. Surfacer is a cold laquer meaning its solvents arent very strong. It could be the solvents in the overlayers are stronger and breaking teh bond between the surfacer and plastic.
  21. If i have areas i suspect of being troublesome. i test them out. If the problem occurrs i wipe the area with alcohol. If the problem still persists and isnt a film but is from the surface being too smooth i scrub it with a medium grit sandpaper to give it more bite. After a prime and rub the area should be invisible under paint. I have the issue more in the higher end resin kits where teh surface is too smooth for any paint to bite.
  22. If it helps at all i am stripping my kit down and readressing some things as well. But its more to bring the model in line with a more improved skill set than anything else.
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