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What's wrong with my Yamato, Bandai, etc.


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OK, I just used some 2-ton epoxy and I think the crack is fixed (for now). Epoxy is much stronger than Krazy glue, and seems to flex a bit to allow the shoulder socket to expand a bit as you jam the ball back in. I think the off-white kind (which I used) is a bit stronger than the clear kind, so you might want to try that.

I can at least pull this off without the left arm falling <_<

Hey can you post a picture of the shoulder with the armor off? I want to glue mine but it looks like I might not have enough clearance for the shoulder armor if I do.

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Hey can you post a picture of the shoulder with the armor off? I want to glue mine but it looks like I might not have enough clearance for the shoulder armor if I do.

I only applied epoxy inside the crack itself, nothing smothered on the outside. Basically, I gently pried the crack apart, applied epoxy with a toothpick, pressed together, and wiped off any excess. If you still need a pic, I'll see what I can do tonight.

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Hey can you post a picture of the shoulder with the armor off? I want to glue mine but it looks like I might not have enough clearance for the shoulder armor if I do.

I was checking the other shoulder today, and I thought I may as well take some pics. Here they are... left shoulder still goin' strong, and tighter than the right one that wasn't broken.

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I was checking the other shoulder today, and I thought I may as well take some pics. Here they are... left shoulder still goin' strong, and tighter than the right one that wasn't broken.

Thanks for the pics, too bad mine's damaged in a different way.

I need some advice on how I should go about fixing mine. It's only cracked on the surface, I looked inside the ball joint and nothing broken through to that side yet. I'd stick some epoxy on the outside but the outer shoulder armor needs to sit flush against the arm to work properly and with epoxy on the outside it won't work. Such a dilema...

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I'll be transforming my new 0S for the first time this weekend. When I get it into battroid the first thing I'll do is remove the shoulder armors and investigate for cracking. So far I have already used the shoulders a bit since I put the gun on in fighter mode and that was an absolute female dog. Once again, the hole in the gun doesn't appear to be big enough for the peg in the arms :(.

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I'll be transforming my new 0S for the first time this weekend. When I get it into battroid the first thing I'll do is remove the shoulder armors and investigate for cracking. So far I have already used the shoulders a bit since I put the gun on in fighter mode and that was an absolute female dog. Once again, the hole in the gun doesn't appear to be big enough for the peg in the arms :(.

yup, the gun doesn't fit into the arm pegs on the 0s. they got it right on the 0a though.

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Thanks for the pics, too bad mine's damaged in a different way.

I need some advice on how I should go about fixing mine. It's only cracked on the surface, I looked inside the ball joint and nothing broken through to that side yet. I'd stick some epoxy on the outside but the outer shoulder armor needs to sit flush against the arm to work properly and with epoxy on the outside it won't work. Such a dilema...

Looks like if you take the top screw out, that crack could be pried open a bit to get epoxy in. That's the only way to get a strong joint. Even if it broke off completely in the process, I'd feel better about a good solid epoxy mend vs. a flimsy surficial (but permamnent) band-aid.

Of course, it's no tmy $150 toy, so you should do what you are most comfortable with.

Edited by ghostryder
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Looks like if you take the top screw out, that crack could be pried open a bit to get epoxy in. That's the only way to get a strong joint. Even if it broke off completely in the process, I'd feel better about a good solid epoxy mend vs. a flimsy surficial (but permamnent) band-aid.

Of course, it's no tmy $150 toy, so you should do what you are most comfortable with.

Turns out the crack was more severe than it looked. It looked very minimal because it was being held together by the peg and the top at the top screw. When that got dislodged I saw it was actually on the verge of snapping clean off. But I squeezed some glue in the crack, and it's better than new.

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Add Jenius to the list of people with shoulder problems (albeit, not yet severe at all). I just completed my first transformation of the toy and lo-and-behold, I have a stress mark on the left shoulder:

As a precaution I have loosened both screws in both shoulders. Oddly enough, neither shoulder seems any floppier with the shoulders loosened so I'm not exactly sure my backing out the screws will really have any effect.

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Edited by jenius
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er, just once.

i only noticed it when i removed the armor to modify the ball joints to tighten it.

do you guys think yamato would release an actual improved parts replacement for owners who have issues with this? i do hope even nightmareB4macross can come up with replacement part for this...

also, is it just me or the problem is exclusive to the left shoulders only?

So, how many times have you transformed or used that arm/shoulder? What I'd like to know is if these shoulders are broken from the factory or develop that condition under use...

1 Edited by V2Assault
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Right, I finally got a 1/60 YF-19, and i'm having a few problems with transformation. I'm currently at the stage where the cockipt area "snaps" and then moves back to enable it to be transformed to Battroid Mode, and i'm finding it very difficult to move it in any way. The instructions aren't being terribly helpful, and I've studied the Jet-to-Battroid video a good number of times, and i'm still stumped.

In short, any help/tips to get the cockpit area moved would be greatly appreciated.

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thats strange... all of the VF-0 shoulder problems seems to tackle the left part only...

also, does anyone know how to replace that round rubber stopper thingy inside the shoulders? after reconnecting the shoulders to the ball joints (treated with a mistakenly thick layer of nail polish), and twisting them a few times i decided to detatch them again because the joints were too stiff this time around - and much to my surprise the left rubber round stopper thing got "messed up" - wherein the it got torn apart from the ball joints being too thick.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I just got the VF-0S. I did a forum search for any problems with the VF-0S and could only find topics about the legs. Anyways, I noticed the emblem on Roy's helmet is a little off center. Is this normal? Any ideas on how I can replace it?

i got a 0A pilot with the same issue. <_<

keep in mind if a seller has a B&M store, his walk-in customers are going to open the flap(maybe even the box) and see which was is the most perfect and purchase the good one.

now if that seller also sells online, its in his best interest you ship out ones with faults like the crooked lightening printing on the helmet, how else is he going to get rid of them?

thats not to say everyone should blame the seller, had yamato did it right the first time, seller wouldn't have to sell valks knowing they have some kind of fault.

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i got a 0A pilot with the same issue. <_<

keep in mind if a seller has a B&M store, his walk-in customers are going to open the flap(maybe even the box) and see which was is the most perfect and purchase the good one.

now if that seller also sells online, its in his best interest you ship out ones with faults like the crooked lightening printing on the helmet, how else is he going to get rid of them?

thats not to say everyone should blame the seller, had yamato did it right the first time, seller wouldn't have to sell valks knowing they have some kind of fault.

So is this a common problem then?

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So is this a common problem then?

the crooked lightening printing?

probably, but i certainly wouldn't consider it a problem since it doesn't affect the toys ability to transform in anyway. just TF it to battoid mode or just look at it from one side in fighter mode and it won't bother you as much. :p while it does bother me some, i'm not losing sleep over it. its is what it is. :)

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I know it's ok with you DnD, but if I had a crooked decal on the head of my lil pilot, I'd go absolutely insane.

Since I only collect 1/48 VF's, not a lot of problems except for Old problems coming back. (IE the Fusealage Gap and crooked Skulls)

Also, I don't see why in the world Yamato would package the the old goofy DYRL pilots in their sets when the Much better gummy DYRL pilot has been out for quite a while now, but that's a minor issue.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Right, I finally got a 1/60 YF-19, and i'm having a few problems with transformation. I'm currently at the stage where the cockipt area "snaps" and then moves back to enable it to be transformed to Battroid Mode, and i'm finding it very difficult to move it in any way. The instructions aren't being terribly helpful, and I've studied the Jet-to-Battroid video a good number of times, and i'm still stumped.

In short, any help/tips to get the cockpit area moved would be greatly appreciated.

I can only urge you to be VERY careful - I just got my own and, following the manual Graham's video, attempted this section of the transformation. The nose section snapped clean off. Inspection revealed that two tiny gray "prongs" on the in/underside of the nose which socket into the rest of the toy and provide the pivot axis have both snapped clean off.

I am VERY upset.

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

On the offchance that somebody reading this might be willing to sell me the part I need to fix my YF-19, here are two pics of the damage:

O.o

Oh dang! Now I'm scared. I got my 1/60 YF-19 yesterday from my sis (straight from Japan. Woo!) and that section was freakin' hard to open up(even though I manage to transform the thing 3 or 4 times, I was trying to be as gentle as possible with that part, at the expense of my fingers and time. *sweats*). I even saw Graham's video and saw him struggle a bit with that section. Is there a way to loosen that part without modifying?

*Is really, really scared now for his YF-19...*

EDIT: Hmm, I got an idea.... maybe someone should make metal versions of those parts. Ya think that'll solve the problem?

Mistress of EDIT: My fears are now gone. My YF-19 is fine for now. Sorry. :)

Edited by MangledMess
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  • 1 month later...

Hello All. I know this is a MACROSS thread - but I can't seem to find the old Garland thread.

Is there any word on a secon run of Garlands fixing the old problems? Are there cue's I can use to ask a seller what version it is?

Replies or PM's appreciated!!

Thanks,

Fred

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  • 2 weeks later...

I got a set of the YF-19 neck hinge recasts from DyNo late last month. Haven't used them yet, as the stock ones on mine are actually holding on pretty well, despite some stress marks. At least I have some backup in case they do break.

BTW, has anyone made recasts of the HU-19 Gunpod? Not that mine is broken, but I'd like my 1/60 to dual-wield.

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I'm feeling the need to try and repair one of my VF-0's

What type/brand epoxy are you guys using?

I looked but haven't seen anything definate.

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The Shin VF-0A is said to have the improvements.

Sounds good, and Graham confirmed the same.

The weird thing is, I received an email from HLJ.COM telling me that the Shin VF-0A does NOT have the POM shoulders.

:blink:

Well, I'll buy 'em anyway, and just be careful when transforming. I think I'll probably order 4 sets of shoulders (2 left, and 2 right) to make sure.

Thanks for the info, Shin.

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  • 2 months later...

i recently acquired a toynami masterpiece alpha scott bernard type. the condition of the toy is MISB ever since its purchase.

however, when i managed to tinker with it to get to know the transformation and such, i've noticed that theres something odd with the hands:

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the right hand has a "developing crack" at the pin joint of the index finger - its not broken but from the looks of it, it will after a few twists and turns on the hands.

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i tried to check if the hands themselves can be removed to see if there would be possibilities for parts exchange - like yamato's 1/48 VF-1 series. but it doesnt seem possible - although the hands themselves has a rotating articulation, it seems it couldnt be "pulled out" for removal...

or i may be just too scared to exert more strength to pull them out since im afraid that it could result to more damage.

it seems that the plastic quality itself would be at fault here - the plastic quality reminds me of the composition used in zoid kits (circa 1999 to present) that has tolerance to stress which will result to crack or break due to age and too much playing.

i think it can be modified but i would have to tinker down to the smallest screw to do so...

i've also managed to search out some reviews and it seems that the alphas have a lot more issues...

http://anymoon.com/blog/2006/11/12/review-...ha-volumes-1-3/

http://anymoon.com/blog/2006/11/18/toynami...er-alpha-vol-4/

so...

1. is it possible to replace the hands themselves?

2. is there anyone who makes "replacement hands"?

3. can i contact toynami and demand a replacement?

any help would be most appreciated... thanks!

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1. dunno

2. dunno

3. You should try contacting toynami and ask for replacement parts (like mabe replacement arms if you can switch those out? since you said you can't do the hands easily). IIRC, some of the guys that were having problems with the Toynami 1/100 scale VF-1s stands breaking, were able to get replacements from Toynami. So give it a shot.

edit: for clarification

Edited by Sumdumgai
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  • 2 weeks later...
:huh: Cheap Yamato factory didn't fully glue my YF-19 FP leg on. Trying to figure out what's the best kind of glue I should use on that part of the toy, I'd prefer not to use crazy glue or something of the likes since those tend to get dry and break off easily, and since that part is under continuous stress, that fix wouldn't last too long. Having a few other issues that are bothering me on my 19, like the left shoulder part that doesn't hold really well when folded up and the right wing being too loose in battroid mode. the last two are minor problems, but the leg is somewhat unforgivable since it makes the toy too loose in fighter and gerwalk mode, not to mention making me wonder when the leg is going to pop causing the toy to fall down and probably damage the rest that's, so far, holding pretty well. <_<

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Hey guys..

i used the search tool, (i did not have to be told to..its just logic to use it before asking) but i came up short...im probably just missing it...

have any of you had a problem with your 1/60 Vf-1s strike's head staying down in Battroid mode? Mine always wants to look up.

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  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Hey pals I just got my first 1/48 (a Focker 1S) and I have a few questions/problems.

1-The left foot lies a little loose when it's totally closed for fighter mode, in fact when I first transformed the toy that ankle don't angle at all. Now the ankle angle very well but the foot is still loose in the full closed position, is that normal?

2-The flap on the left wing it's a little curved downwards, how can I fix that?

3-The thumb in the left hand (this seems like a joke) don't move at all, I think it's glued or somethig but what can I use to remove the glue without damaging the plastic.

4-And finally, when I transform the valk to battroid mode the chestplate don't attach at all to the rest of the toy, am I skipping some step or something?

Please help this 1/48 newbie.

Thanks.

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