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Too bad, they look like very interesting kits of good designs.

Flory's is great. it's non-reactive, so it should be fine. I use it to weather everything.

That'd earn my subscription to D+ for sure!

It's not only a lack of knowledge regarding Star Trek, it's a complete lack of thought. @Seto Kaiba nailed it: this is all JJ Abrams fallout

Congrats @CharlesXavier !

+1 ... someone not only approved of, but PAYED for that ...

Slightly nsfw meme:

Welcome! I'm not sure if you have access to this section*There is a minimum post count IIRC but there is a thread in the "Where to Buy Macross, Auctions & Dealers Specials" section: I've never ordered from N-Y, but judging by that thread, you're not the only one whose had issues.

Yes, but being CA that should be relatively easy. Any left on the repair surface would (one presumes) inhibit a plastic-welding agent. CA is very brittle, so it should scrape off without even marring the plastic with some caution. In the Warhammer 40K world, it's advisable to attach arms, weapons etc. with CA: if you drop a mini the CA bond will break, not the arm/weapon, then just scrape-off the old CA (for fitment reasons) and re-do the joint, good as new. I've never heard of Devcon before, but after a quick google it sounds like some top-shelf stuff! I'll have to see if I can procure some... Out of curiosity @sqidd, what's the nature of the breakage? is it the muzzle-section of the barrels? I can see any repair to that point being (relatively) weak considering the tiny surface area(s) involved... especially if you attempted a CA repair. Or is it someplace else on the cannon? In general the more surface area the better for any repair job with solvents/glues.

New Edwards seems like a relatively safe and interesting place to work... Eden seems like Earth before the glassing... the Eden emigration fleet gets my vote!

I can't not see this whenever I see the EX-S

Gorgeous!! You continue to impress/inspire @Lolicon !!!

I would use 1, maybe 2 pins if you have the physical space at a right angle to the part itself. normally I would recommend 90o to the break, but that'd make this even more complex/difficult something like this: *this is dependent on the internal structure of the joint, of which I'm completely unaware, but if it's just a plastic-only part of the joint, I would use epoxy and 2 pins [because I'm type-A, and using two will give you extra stability to the repair] in the yellow locations above. this will keep the pins away from any actual moving portion or negative spaces required for mobility. if you do not have a vice and some kind of drill-press, then doing it this way will be extremely difficult to get correct and not slip and mar/break the joint up even worse Order of operations in my head: A LIGHT scuffing with some sandpaper to the break itself will help give the epoxy something [texture] to bite onto and will hold better. Epoxy the broken joint-flange into place, making sure it's as square and tight as possible. let the epoxy dry. *note* you can stop at this point and test-out the joint's function/strength if you like. maybe you won't even need to pin it, but I suspect you will. I would then put the joint in a vice, and mark-out then drill the two pin-holes. I don't know if going all the way through is necessary, but I'd sink the pins at least half-way into the joint. The more 'meat' of the broken flange you can use, the better IMO Trim the pins so they are just a little bit countersunk into their holes [ever so slightly recessed] then drench the pins in epoxy, place them into the joint, and wipe off the excess. This should have the benefit of sealing the pins in all in one fell swoop. now you can fill/sand/paint if you feel you need to. Once you've reached step 2, feel free to modify the angle of your pins if you like, perhaps perpendicular to the break itself would be best from a mechanical strength standpoint... but I'm not an engineer, I just play one in my hobbyroom! WARNING: doing it my way will further damage the part before you make it better!! and stands a reasonable chance of outright failure! I'm fully aware that doing it my way is NOT going to leave it pretty without additional work [filling, sanding, painting] and you need to know that too, before you start But as a model-builder, that's how my brain immediately tackled the problem. Shy of machining yourself a new piece, this is the most sturdy/long-lasting repair I can think to make. My method may prove to be overkill, but overkill is under-rated and if you play with her at all, I would not trust an epoxy-only bond for any appreciable force on a repair surface-area of that size. Hope this either helps, or inspires a better/simpler solution. I like to overthink things like this so TIFWIW Good luck!

*race ensues, pilot flips his ride "F*** it, I didn't sign for it!!" *EDIT* Now that I've actually watched that video. I'm actually kind of impressed those LED strips stayed mounted for the duration of their flight...

From a modeler's perspective: I would drill 2 holes and pin each broken piece in place with some brass rod addition to even the epoxy. I suggest you DEFINITELY pin it if you're going to try CA of any kind. Zap-a-gap should work as well as any other CA [crazy glue]. Pinning it may be time/trouble spent, but those breaks look like they could do with the extra re-enforcement, and I would expect a CA repair-job to crack under any appreciable stress. Good luck with your fix!

FWIW: Hasegawa's Callouts say Mr. Color #80 Cobalt Blue 60% + Mr. Color #66 Bright Green 40%... which sounds like it would come out more of a teal like his helmet than the green of his fighter... As far as ready-to-use rattle-cans, or even just "yay, I don't have to mix for this!" pots of paint, I haven't been able to find any that are a straight-up match to my eye.

Reynolds has sort of become Canada's funnier/younger Nicholas Cage. [though he does seem more discriminating in his project selection] I'm down for a watch, but as many have said, my local theaters are all closed, so it'll show up on Netflix or someplace eventually.

Isn't there a Protoculture [post conversion to a vajra-like form, likely not it's original body] at the end of Macross Zero? It takes off with Sara to somewhere... Or was it some kind of autonomous drone?

Yea it does! I challenge ANYONE to pull-off a cape like Billy D. Williams did!!

That is curious about Enterprise... probably all the Whovians that didn't exist yet during it's run... I didn't say "Series", I said "Season"... a Series being made up of multiple Seasons... I seem to have made an error in assuming this was the Season 2 or 3 Premier, when it was the "Broadcast Premier" ... or to be even more precise: this was the re-broadcast of the series opener that not only aired already, but has been available (to anyone who actively wanted to seek it out) digitally for what, 3 years now? [Do I have that right?] Which makes the Nielsen numbers even more pointless, but makes them look even worse! Lets run the numbers: the Actual premier of the Series opener back in 2017(?) got 9.5 million viewers [I can't find the actual rating this would've earned them on that day]. This broadcast [Re-broadcast?] got 1.7 million, for a rating of 0.2% Assuming the same total audience size [and frankly, given our current social state, I would expect the total TV viewership to be up rather than down], that would give the 1st airing of 9.5 million 1.11% of total viewership... which I'm taking as the bottom-end of the possible number. That places it as the worst rated Trek ever... again, IF my number is actually close... Even if we put the broadcasts together, we're still sitting well below where Enterprise ended it's run, let alone where it started. What do the Nielsen ratings really mean? Less in the current age than ever before, certainly! However they're our only confirmable data-point for viewership numbers until CBS opens their books about it. My misinterpretation aside, the fact that CBS is not raving about their digital viewership numbers [in public anyway] doesn't imply they're good... it in fact implies the opposite, but if a refutation on that front is forthcoming, we'll have to wait until Monday at the earliest to read about it in the funnypapers. Anyhow, we could all have never had to even know about STD if CBS had just let Axanar do their thing, or made the better call and just hired them.

There's no need to put a ceiling at 300 units, but one could use that as the "floor" for something like: "We're not able/willing to produce it unless/until we have XXX many pre-orders." etc. Why put an upward limit on potential profit?? I'd be in for at least one F203 Dragon II and one MiM-31 Karyovin... more cool paint-schemes would equal more of my money!!

The expectational framing of a season premier of the current Star Trek series to reruns of the old better ones says everything right there, doesn't it?

In what way? Because of digital distribution? Those numbers suck too... or they'd be incessantly touting them to shoot-down all the "your Star Trek ratings sucked" articles.

Unarmed? Um... Isn't he a head in a jar wired directly into his mobile fortress, and therefore it's armament? And screw him anyway! He ruined our planet for nothing!