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VF-19

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Everything posted by VF-19

  1. There are two floating head pictures at this site. http://www.eburg.com/~philipmw/patrick/fun...nnymacross.html I don't think either of them are the one everybody's searching for, but it's better than nothing.
  2. A little off topic here, but: Does anybody know when Smokescreen is coming out this September? I want him so badly...
  3. VF-19

    Banpresto Valks

    I've got 2 of them. The VF-1J done in tv Max colours, and a Super Cannon Fodder Brown. They're cheap, have no locking systems, and are a bit floppy. They are fun to play with, and with a bit of work, can hold some interesting poses. The FAST packs can be accepted by any of the valks, so you can swap them out when you want. I'd say go for it. The Hikaru 1A is on sale at HLJ.com
  4. While I think a Mini-series would be great, please, absolutley no borg! They're way overused, and they've lost their terrifyingess... They've been reduced to pansies... Come on... If you were going to do a mini-series, do it on something completely different. You could do it about the Enterprise C or B. There's lots of room to write a story there...
  5. I downloaded this yesterday, and I haven't really had the time to play around with it. But, for those of you using a Radeon 9000 pro 128 (because I'm not sure about the other cards), if you're experiencing excessive slowdown, and I mean excessive, go and download the new Catalyst 3.7 drivers available from ATI. Not only do you get a speed boost (due to optimized coding), Homeworld 2 will now run at proper framerates. But what I've seen is making me want it NOW. I don't wanna wait!
  6. Any plane will stall if there's not enough airflow going over the portions of the plane that generates lift (usually the wings). In order for a plane to go straight up and still have sufficient lift, requires brute force. I don't know how much, but basically, the engines need to supply enough thrust to maintain lift. I know the F-15 is one of the few planes in the world that can actually do this, but I'm unsure as to wether or not a Valk can do it. If a plane is going straight up, and doesn't maintain a high enough forward movement, it will stall and or spin out. Both are nasty things when you're close to the ground.
  7. Well... You do have a tiny bit of control with spray cans, as the airbrush set comes with a primitive pressure regulator. You basically turn the dial, which opens up the valve on the can. When I used to use a can (and I only did once), I'd spend a minute or so, fiddling with the regulator. It's best to play around with it first before you go and airbrush.
  8. But the real question is: Is Yamato planning to follow through with this. I've got a Max 1A, and while he looks very nice, he screams for some FAST packs... You probably can get away with finding somebody who has Yamato Valk parts that accept FAST packs, and paying them to give you their parts... That would be the easiest route.
  9. Well... Depending on the airbrush (single action double action etc...) it would be very easy to cover large areas. I've only had my airbrush for about 2 months now, and I've had the same amount of airbushing time. What I do is I practice using water on some cardboard. I fiddle with the airpressure, and the paint flow (I have a single action badger 200) until I get a spray pattern I want. Usually I keep my airpressure at about 20 psi. What you can do is make the spray size about the height of the ship, from the bottom of the boat, up to the main deck (not to the height of where the bridge is, as it's among the highest points of the ship). Spray in long even strokes, and don't stop half way through (you'll hate yourself for it). Spray anywhere from 6-8 inches away from the boat, and thin your paint properly. By properly (for acyrlics) I mean milk consitency. Go to your fridge, pour a glass of milk, and shake your milk around and observe how it sloshes. Drink the milk (something that's good for you anyways), and then thin your paint to about that consitency. Too thin, and it will run on the model, and too thick and it will clog your airbrush. To thin acyrilcs, you'll need rubbing alcohol in the 70% type. The pure alcohol may dry too fast. Anyways, I hope I was of some help, but I can be more helpful if you provide lots of details (airbrush brand, make and model numer, paint type, etc...).
  10. VF-19

    Yamato 1/60 Variants

    It wouldn't be too hard to modify though... I'm tempted to try modifying my Max 1A, but the idea of drilling into diecast is scary...
  11. VF-19

    Yamato 1/60 Variants

    I thought it couldn't take the boosters that go on the back of the Valk... Could be wrong though. To my knowledge, the VF-1D was the first valk that was able to use the full set of FAST packs but didn't come with them.
  12. VF-19

    Max Superposible!

    Sorry for the misleading title, but I'd thought I'd share the result of a bit of playtime with my Max 1A. Hope you like it. Oh and Mods, I'm sorry if this thread causes any problems with you.
  13. Now, concerning the hip pieces, were you able to find out what variation of the VF-1 are the hip pieces available for? As long as I get the parts that were released after the 1J I should be able to repaint them to the appropriate colour... Provided, that there isn't any hidden differences of course... PS they're the R-L1 and L-L1 on all VF-1s done by Yamato.
  14. VF-19

    Yamato VF-1A decals

    Hmm... I have a fully UNUSED VF-1A sheet. I'd be interested in selling it to you for a parts swap on a 1:60... That or money.
  15. I always thought it was a pressure attachement. Although, I do seem to remember some sort of bolt locking system...
  16. Here's what I do with my airbrush. 1) I use it in the garage with the door open. Helps keep the peace in the house. 2) I use a respirator. I like my lungs intact please! 3) I also use acyrlics, and to thin, I use 70% isopropyl alcohol. Thin to the consistency of milk. Too thin and the paint will run, too thick, and the airbrush clogs. 4) To clean my airbrush, I dissasemble, and dunk the dirty parts into rubbing alcohol. Wait, and then clean off with an old toothbrush. 5) My spraybooth is nothing more than a cardboard box. As I'm in the garage, I can go cheap with some materials. Hope it helps!
  17. That's what I meant. The extendible stock. Sorry for being vague. Thanks for the info!
  18. I've got two questions regarding the Gunpod on the VF-1 (all variants that carry a gunpod) 1) Does it open up to fire in fighter mode (or gerwalk with arms stowed)? 2) Can it fire without opening up? That's it for now! Any help would be appreciated!
  19. I've had mine on pre-order for a few months now at The Comic Book Shoppe (not joking, that's the store name). I hope it still comes out in November. It will be good to have some hand candy to play with while thinking up essay topics.
  20. Which means, in Ottawa, January or February. Ottawa sucks for releasing things in the retail sector. But, luckly I've managed to get some of the recent Universe toys, so perhaps things are starting to change around here. Tigerhawk looks pretty cool in his Purple and Black Decepticon scheme (he's now known as Razorhawk), and Silverbolt... looks like he's on an acid trip. However, as soon as I see the planet sized eater of planets I'm getting him.
  21. Now that's not a bad idea! However, in what he's building, you'd want to keep your weight distributed very evenly. So, if you were going the route of compressed air, you'd want to mount your tank in the centerline of the aircraft, so as it gets lighter (as air does weigh something), it will make the craft overall lighter, rather than one side. Also if you do go this route, you'd need to either build an access port to the tank somewhere on the fighter, or make the tank removeable. Oh and you may need to design a custom tank to be able to carry any significant ammount of air... I doubt the standard cylinder will work...
  22. Hmm... That might still be too big to fit into the back pack... Especially since there's three nozzles in the back pack... Not to mention the possible location for all the fuel... Although, the main body would probably be a good place to house it. That or you could basically go the MiG 25 route. Make the entire body one huge fuel tank.
  23. Err... The main problem with rockets is how short they'll last. Not to mention if you use the solid fuel type you can't shut them off once they're on. Just how small can these mini jets get anyways?
  24. I think the most feasable way is to make it fly and then when preparing for landing the model releases the legs and lands (obviously it would need to release various air-brakes as well , before releasing the legs at a very low altitude ). What I´m worried about is the mechanical structure of the legs for walking and at the same time thrust. I can see a huge problem. If you have one engine producing more thrust than the other, your plane will flip over... Better it be an RC model than me in the cockpit... As to the mechanical structure, I think you can get away with it locking in the hovering position. One thing at a time... First you get it to hover, then you can install the servos and whatnot in the legs to retract the engines so it can fly around. BTW you are planning to put mini jets in this thing right?
  25. Here's another suggestion I read on another board. If you want to give the illusion that your aircraft has weight, sand the part of the wheel that contacts the ground just a bit. The distortion in the perfect circle will give the illusion that the aircraft looks like it's heavy. If I recall correctly, this was done by a poster who goes by the name of Bhop73...
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