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Everything posted by VF-19

  1. It would probably be ok in fighter mode, but in Battroid, you may suffer from a bent hip... All depends on the angle, how far it fell, what it fell onto (carpeting can be a life saver), disposition of the gods, etc... Luckly none of my Yammies have fallen from any significant height. I had one of my legs for my Max 1A fall about 3.5 feet onto carpeting without a scratch. The worst is falling over onto a hard wood desk because of the crazy poses I put them through.
  2. Yeah, it is BS but in the end I liked it. Anyone else notice how the music turned to an older style and got kinda scratchy during the black and white part? Personally when I first saw it I thought it was a homage to older samurai films. Guess I was wrong. Well... It is an homage to early samurai films, so I guess it works out in the end. Hopefully the DVD will have the fight sequence in full bloody colour!
  3. Went to go and see it yesterday. In a word, GREAT!!! However, I was kinda losely payin attention to the father and son that walked in to watch the movie... The kid couldn't have been more than 13... I was wondering if they were going to walk out at any point... As to the fight at the end in black and white... All I can say is that the ratings board are hypocrates... Changing the colour to black and white is going to give you an R rating??? I want what they're smoking!
  4. Might as well dissasemble the legs and strip the diecast pieces individually. It'll be safer that way... Be sure to take pictures of how everything goes together just to make the re-assembly process easier. However, if you don't want to take things apart, you can wrap the plastic parts in masking tape and sand the metal parts down to the bare metal. The masking tape will protect the plastic from getting any marks.
  5. I'd stay away from cheap plastic airbrushes. If you want an airbrush that will last (or outlast) you, get one that's all metal. Right now I'm using a Badger 200. Easy to use, sprays my paints well, and the results look great, considering that I have had no prior airbrushing experience. Before you plunk down $100 Cdn or more for an airbrush, you have to really consider some critical factors. 1) Does this airbrush do what I want? 2) How easy is it to get replacement parts? 3) How expensive are the replacement parts? 4) How long will it take to get the replacement parts (really important if you're working on a deadline)? Now to save some money, wait for a sale at your local hardware store for compressor/airtanks. I got mine for $75 (with a price error to boot! Lucky me!), and the moisture trap ran me another $25. Not bad for $100 CDN. It's a tad bit noisy, but quieter than I expected. It's a 100 PSI 5 gallon tank. Perfect for what I need. Also doubles as an airgun for when I'm cleaning my computer (the tank, not the airbrush! ). Another thing to consider is a respiratior. You DO NOT want to inhale lots of paint. It's bad for your health. Again, I got lucky and got a disposible respirator from my workplace as it was undergoing rennovations when I bougth the airbrush. Respirators will run you about $20-50 CDN, depending on which one you get. Do your homework, and get the airbrush you want. Take good care of it, and it will take good care of you.
  6. what kind of air brush kit should i get? That's up for you to decide. Some factors to consider when looking for an airbrush. 1) How expensive is it? 2) How easy is it to get spare parts? 3) What's the warranty like? (helpful, but not really needed) 4) How much is a compressor and all the parts that go with it is (ie regulator, moisture trap, adapters etc)? 5) How easy is it to clean? Do your homework WM Cheng here uses a Badger 200 (same as me), and he has awesome results. Others use a different brand of airbrush and get awesome results too. It all depends on your skill. Some tips for modeling. 1) Never work when you're tired. Mistakes can happen, including mistakes that cause blood to flow. 2) Don't drink, eat, or smoke when modeling. You can ignite some of the fumes, and you may accidentaly consume something when you eat it (other than the food or drink) 3) Don't drink a caffinated beverage before you model. Shaky hands = BAD! 4) Organize, Organize, Organize! Have fun!
  7. Well... If you want to put on more of the decals, look around for some decal placement sheets for real-life fighters and base your placement on that. At least it will give you an idea as to what to do... However, those UN Spacy logos (the words, not the symbol) almost always go on the legs and the leg fast packs.
  8. There is one mention of where at least 2 of the decals go. The UN Spacy Kite symbol goes on the VF-11 just aft of the cockpit, right where the canards are. That's all the instructions mention... I think they're on the last page.
  9. Hmm... Don't know quite what to think... For some reason, the feet bug me... Also the little "product may vary" makes me worry... A lot. Looking ok for a MPC I guess... PS I'm not exactly an MPC fan...
  10. The God Gundam: No undergate Master Gundam: Undergate You'll have to live with the scars on the God Gundam... Unless you strip it of its gold plating and airbrush some gold paint on it...
  11. VF-19

    YF-21 FP

    I got my YF-21 FP yesterday (and the VF-11 too)! Ok... Let's see. No problems with the backpack falling down. Can't have the shoulder armour in fighter mode, as it causes things to pop out of locking position (perhaps this was the G-man's problem? ) Very hard to unlock it in battroid mode, felt that I was going to break something. Loose hips. Hmm... I might just try putting some teflon tape around the ball joint of the hip, as it's really loose for me too... However, it doesn't affect the 21 in battroid mode too much... Give me a few days to get a better impression on my two new additions.
  12. VF-19

    YF-21 FP

    Let the nail polish dry sufficiently. To veer on the side of caution, let it dry for a few days. If its too sticky, take some nail polishing files and gently file off a bit of nail polish. As to the second part... I don't know, as mine isn't here yet... Perhaps you mistransformed it?
  13. Favorite real weapons: Katana Mini-Gun (like the one held by the Terminator in T2) Ak-47 (can take a lickin and keep on tickin) Favorite Sci-Fi Weapons Reason (read Snow Crash to figure out what reason is) Tachyon Gun from Privateer (what? It's the best overall gun in that game) Beam weapons from Freespace 2 That's my short list. And remember, ALWAYS listen to Reason.
  14. VF-19

    YF-21 FP

    Hmm... Well, one way to tighten up the connection point would be to go and get some clear nail polish and paint it onto the pegs. Give it sufficient time to dry, and do a test fit. Repeat as needed.
  15. If I read this correctly, the VF-1 not only doesn't have conventional elevators, it doesn't even have ailerons. It uses the engine nozzles instead of elevators, and the wing thrusters for roll. Comments? My assumption was that the elevators were built into the wings of the VF-1... However, I'm probably wrong on that... Since the VF-1 can thrust vector it's safe to assume that the thrust vector unit is what's used to control its pitch... Say, How durable are thrust vectoring systems anyways?
  16. He's Smokescreen. He's from the Japanese side of the Alternator line (aka Binaltech). He's a 1:24 scale Subaru Rally car. I have one on order, but it isn't here yet, so I can't tell you how big or how heavy it is...
  17. To comfirm again. It's an S-Gundam. And those things on the backpack aren't the beam sabres. They're beam cannons. The S Variant has two on the back pack, while the Ex-S variant has 4. As to the V-Fins... Well... There isn't much you could do... You'd need to make the model bigger in order to fit in more pieces.
  18. People! The Pokemon incident is a myth. http://www.snopes.com/radiotv/tv/seizure.htm You can check out the infamous sequence here. If you pay attention, you'll notice that alot of animes (both past and present) do that particular sequence of flashing lights. Pay attention to this line here: As to the VF-0 not making more noise... Well... They do have mufflers for jet engines don't they?
  19. Simple. The PS2 has a rather checkered history on wether or not it will play certain DVDs. The DVDs can be spotless, and yet, the PS2 refuses to acknowledge that there is a DVD movie in the drive. However, on topic. If the PS2 did drop to 99 USD (or about 150 CDN), I would go out and get one.
  20. Actually the movie was released even before the Manga was finished. Miyazaki has said that he wants people to consider the Manga and the movies two seperate entities. As to the manga, I have it too and I loved it. As to the lack of 5.1 in the movies, some of the older titles weren't recorded in 5.1. So you may have to live with that... I can recall that Spirited away was in 5.1 in both English and Japanese...
  21. Hmm... Well there is only two putties I've tried. Squadron White Tamiya standard putty By far I like Tamiya putty. Less shrink, sands smoother, and takes a little bit longer to dry. I like it when my putty takes a tad bit longer to dry, as it leaves me with more working room. While squadron's is ok, It doesn't compare to Tamiya. David: Have you tried the regular Testor's glue, the one in the Orange coloured metal tube. While it is in a gel-like consistency, it does take a bit of time to dry. The other option for you would be to get some 30 min epoxy and use that to glue the halves of your ships together... Although, I'm not quite sure how well the epoxy will hold... If all else fails, you could line up the two halves, tape them together, and then using some spare plastic sprue parts, you could use that to hold the two halves together. Oh well, experimentation has always lead to interesting stuff.
  22. Uh... Where exactly would "around here" be? A wee bit vague... However some places to go would be badger's homepage. http://www.badger-airbrush.com/ There's a start!
  23. That's why I use putty and regular modeling glue for filling seams... I'd rather have the stuff that I use to fill seams to be softer than the plastic around it...
  24. Well... Let us know if you do! BTW, that's the same airbrush I picked up during the summer... But I've only got the regular tip for it at the moment... I might just get the fine tip after seeing all of your awesome work... Keep it up!
  25. Great model WM! You really are the master. However, there is one tiny gripe I have with the kit... The canopy. Don't get me wrong, it looks great and all, but due to the paint not matching as close as it can, the canopy decal is rather jarring. If it bothers you enough, you could always take the decal off and paint the colours on... That's my only problem with the kit. Great work, and great solutions to some of the problems you've encountered! Keep up the excellent work!
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