derex3592
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Everything posted by derex3592
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For under $10 for a small roll, you really can't go wrong with this stuff. http://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/Show/category/ReadyGrassVinylMat/page/2 I got it off Amazon. You do have to be a little careful with it..it sheds sand!!! It's also delicate..easy to knock of bits of it from the mat.
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I just had my first experience with Model Master Acrylic Clear Red and Blue last week. Very hard to do as I'm impatient! You have to spray coat after coat after coat and eventually it will build up and give you a kind of tinted "candy coated" look. Be careful not to get impatient with it or it WILL run on you. light coats over like a 30 minute period. Grainy "splatter" is TOO THICK! (this is my problem 90% of the time!) Runny is tooo THIN! You will come to learn when you hit that "magic mixture" ratio..the paint goes on perfectly, no splatter, no runs, dries the instant it hits the plastic, and it takes forever to use all the paint in your paint cup/bottle. The wrong thicker mixes run out quick!
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Thanks! For anyone who is interested.. the base is a $7 blackboard from Hobby Lobby. I sprayed the wooden edge of it gloss black with spray paint. Then I found a roll of vinyl mat "sand" material for the base that model railroad guys use--(those guys use some VERY cool stuff for scenery--hint..Macross dioramas might be coming soon..) . Anyways...the cardboard was the packing material from my new electric shaver sawed in half. The texture and shapes were just too perfect not to use creatively for something! I cut some more "sand" for the back walls. Used 3M spray adhesive to glue down the "sand" to the base and cardboard to the back walls.
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As I run out of room in my case....I am becoming a battroid guy out of necessity!!!
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jaw dropingly awesome Kicker--as always..That 1:48 shelf with all those GBP armor's is REDONKULOUS!
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The technology to do anything JJ wants to do is out there people...don't kid yourself. I was amazed to watch the special features of "The Social Network" the other night to see how in a seemingly no CGI movie how much there REALLY was and is these days in pretty much anything we see. They scanned Dick Armey's head and put it on another stunt double's body to give the illusion of the Winkelvoss twins. Amazing stuff... it was seamless in my opinion, i thought they hired identical twins for the role! ...and that was years ago now. JJ could easily take the 3 actors from Star Wars, digitally de-age them and put their heads on someone else's body. -
QFT!!!
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Congrats! I find that "winging it" is pretty much what airbrushing is ALL about! You can watch videos and try it the "experts" way, but in the end it's what works for YOU that matters! Sometimes it turns out great, sometimes not. The mixture is the key..no matter what the bottles say, I always start at 50/50. whether it be enamel or acrylic. Usually get pretty good results with that as a starting point! I find that acrylics lay down nice but require LOTS more coats and time, but are easy to clean up after. Enamels cover quick, but are more of a mess to clean up. Good Luck and have fun! p.s.---ALWAYS spray for a few seconds on a scrap piece of plastic before you hit your model! (even after you think the mix is perfect!)
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They are Micro Machine storm troopers. Found 1 set on Amazon. As far as I can tell, they are perfect for 1:72.
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nope--I actually built it in flight mode..it's on a Flight Display stand..I actually built the model to be identical to the ESB Falcon..so sometime I might spray everything white and it would make an excellent Hoth set piece as well!
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It's a DIORAMA creepy weirdo...get it straight...lol
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Thanks! I actually did!! Finally!! New kind of primer at Home Depot...same kind as before, but says "now bonds to plastic". Did 3 to 4 more coats of that over the weekend and she is now light blocked. Pain in the ass though. Gonna airbrush base color this weekend hopefully.
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After months of trying to figure it out, I finally made a base for my fine molds millennium falcon model... All materials were less than $20 total. Little tiny stormtroopers were $15..all in all... I call it a win.. :-). Just need to get an acrylic cover for it at this point and I will be done.
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That's what I thought!!!
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I still need a green Beta....
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What's the fur hat on the stormtrooper helmet?????
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Those Hornet's look great! On another note...I need help guys.....I've been trying and trying to get my clear Enterprise D "lightblocked"enough to not see light through any of the hull sections. Obviously I can ONLY paint on the outside of the hull...so here's what I have done so far--doing light coats as to not to obscure any surface detail. 1. Model Master Flat Black enamel first--airbrushed on..That did squat. 2. Coat after coat of grey rattlecan good quality primer--This helps but still NOT good enough. 3. 2 coats of the actual hull color on top of ALL the rest of this..Model Master Light Ghost Grey enamel--airbrushed on--STILL not quite good enough.. Now the guy who's build I'm following--"Trekworks" on Youtube claimed he "just used 2 coats of black and then his base coat"..yeeeeeeeehhhhhhh.......ok dude.. ANY IDEAS??? I can post pics later tonight to try to get my point across...
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Glad it worked out! I love this thing in battroid mode!
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Well...I tried spraying some paint thinner through my airbrush as a test..and I can definitely smell thinner at the end of the tube.and I can feel a slight whiff of air at the end of it...not much but enough I think. I'm gonna actually try to paint some Sunday so we shall see.
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Finally bought a medium size spray booth and then made myself a ventilation system yesterday on my day off. Thought I would share...hopefully now I can make some headway on my Enterprise D. Light block covering an all clear model is turning out to be a pain!!!
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LOL!
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My 21 and 22 Gamlin both don't like to stand up on glass shelves very well at all. I liked the Yamato stand the old 21 came with..but I guess I was in the minority...
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Yes. That is right. Apparently going backwards is uber bad. LOL. All I can say is the first time I kept messing with it and then it just kind of "happened"...LOL..sounds like a date I had once.. ohhh,,,,and if you're not bleeding from your fingertips yet from all those damn pointy bits....you haven't done it right...(not kidding..as careful as I was, one of them got me good enough to draw first blood).
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Ok..you guys have peaked my interest...I'm gonna listen to it this weekend.
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I feel your pain!!! This is BY FAR the most annoying part of this toy. I messed with my 17D for damn near an hour trying to get those hip bars rotated and NOT scratch up or dent or break anything. I've done it 3 times now and it hasn't gotten any easier..the only trick I've learned is kinda use the weight of the leg itself to help swing the thing around...(I'm sure you know this, but make SURE you're going the right direction with it or you will gouge the hell out of the plastic) It's hard to explain how to do it..but I can see why people say the 17 was kind of a step back in design after the awesomeness of the 19's. Good Luck. Maybe someone else has a helpful hint...
