mickyg
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Everything posted by mickyg
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The gel stuff (and even some of the stuff in a bottle) often has acrylic compounds in it. It's certainly work as a medium to "add" to the plastic. But the problem is that it's also a pretty aggressive solvent. So you would want to make sure you're using a very small amount. Agreed with Big s on the possibility it might shrink too. CA glues would be great except they often dry harder than the surrounding plastic, so you'd have to work really fast before it has completely set. That or be very precise with your sanding. Your original tactic of using melted sprue actually sounds like the best approach here. Have you attempted making more with what's left and some new glue? Might be worth trying.
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I work at a Caterpillar dealership and they've had a big corporate "don't tell anyone about Transformers till we say it's OK" sort of agreement in place till just a few days ago. Apparently Cat is a massive sponsor of the movie. I'm waiting to see how much Cat actually features in the movie and won't at all be surprised if it's all of a few seconds.
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I also noticed the intake/hip joints are not clicked in with those pics in the instructions. I was thinking it wasn't properly done but who knows. Seems odd to not click them together and leave an unsightly gap there. But the gerwalk/knee joints aren't exactly invisible either.
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I thought this was the Hasegawa kit at first. Wow, that is an amazing build!
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Your most recent Macross or toy purchase! General thread.
mickyg replied to Gakken85's topic in Hall Of The Super Topics
Nice gets everyone! These arrived today via SAL from Nippon Yasan. Shipped the 29th of May and arrived today, the 15th of June. Twice now that NY has shipped SAL about two weeks. Not bad!
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This is actually the first time I'm hearing of the differences in the super parts. I thought they were all the same. I'm glad I modded a G set for my F, now that I know.
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I don't know man, something about those landing gears looks a little off. I mean, can't Bandai do proper white gear? Those look decidedly metallic!
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Also worth noting that it's really nice to sell your stuff to members of this community, where you know they'll be appreciated and if you're like me, develop a friendship with some of the folks here. It's almost like your collection gets to stay in the family. Might not get you the absolute top dollar but it's a lot less work to sell to "friends" here and the satisfaction of making someone else's collection complete or just helping out, is a nice added bonus in my book.
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Yup... Somewhere I have a pic of my pile of Macross models. And then there's the real world models that probably outnumber the Macross ones 3 to 1. It's downright scary how much time those things represent when I look at them all together.
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Thanks for this LoT!
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Thanks for the pics! Can you show us where the stress mark is on the back?
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Absolutely agree!
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Outstanding! Love the subtle modulations you have in the super packs too. Looks very realistic and adds a sense of scale to it.
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Just reposting this one here because I think it proves a theory I've got about the gray Bandai are using for the Tomahawk. I think it's the same as the "gray" on the Delta valks. Maybe they've made the decision to use a common plastic and paint for these things, across the board?
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This sure is a slippery one, that's for sure. On the one hand, there's blatant copying and outright stealing of a product at play here. And on the other, there's the fact that you can't actually buy the damned things anymore! Or at least at a price that's not insane. I'm totally with Chyll2 on this one as well - when I was first in a position to actually buy a renewal Bandai VF-25, I had enough for only the 'valk. And unfortunately by then, the armor parts were long since sold out. That meant second hand ones were skyrocketing to the point of absurdity. So much so that when the final run of VF-25Ss was released, I didn't really bother to search for it or even attempt to buy one on the second hand market (when they were affordable) for the simple fact that I couldn't afford the stupid cost of second hand armor parts to do ol' Ozma up properly. I get that it's probably an really good business move on the part of Bandai to have this sort of model in place, as it prevents shelf warmers and (perhaps artificially) drives up demand. But from a consumer point of view, it's terribly frustrating not being able to buy the things you want, for the retail price, simply because Bandai didn't make enough. We consumers don't really care what the reason behind it is, the simple fact is the item we want isn't available. I'd love to apply this to other prestige items (if that's the right category to put our toys) like cars, for instance, but unless I'm missing something, that model really doesn't apply. True, there are some obvious examples of limited production runs of some vehicles but the costs are already so high that you've limited your market to only a select few anyway. Maybe someone else can chime in with some other examples of this happening in the industry. In short, I don't support what's happening with these KOs, even if the quality is the same or better. They're potentially short circuiting the whole reason these toys exist in the first place. However, if the original companies really aren't going to reissue the stuff we are willing to buy, for retail prices, then that only leaves the second hand, highly inflated market. I certainly understand why it's an attractive option.
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Mine just shipped yesterday. I've got it bundled with a Spartan so perhaps that's why there's been a delay. Still, can't complain in light of your experiences, Mommar.
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Sorry, rushed post. Yep, for the VF-31 is exactly what I meant. We had tiny nozzles on the VF-25, so if that's what these are on the 31, they're positively huge in comparison!
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I only recently caught this and was seriously impressed. Really great movie all around.
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Do we have any hard data on Gerwalk mode thrust devices? I see what looks like it could be some form of engine exhaust right to the outboard side of both legs but I'm not sure what it's supposed to be. Here's an image to better illustrate.
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That is a very good idea! The marks are likely something so shallow that they'll disappear under a clear coat. Just need a reasonable sheen to match the Satin of the toy, like Xigfrid suggested.
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Agreed with WM Cheng on the advice for Isopropyl or Mr Color thinner - the Tampo is actually a bit stronger than the regular paint on at least the super parts for the VF-25G I modified. I'm guessing MicroSol is probably partially alcohol or maybe even ammonia? At any rate, using a Q-tip moistened with IPA (I've just used 3 names for rubbing alcohol!) on the tampo is probably a safe place to start, followed by something like Mr Color or Tamiya lacquer thinner. I would NOT go with regular lacquer thinner, as that's likely to mar the plastic as well as the paint.
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Thanks ridgebacks. For the record though, it IS Monday in Japan, already. I'm in the same boat with waiting for NY to update me on my shipping. I also ordered a Spartan together with this pack so I'm wondering what's happening with my order just like a few others.
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AWESOME!!!
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Not sure if this will help your particular situation but I found that the Gerwalk joint in the legs needed to be clicked a little farther than I expected, in order to get everything to line up when clicking the legs together in fighter mode. That whole backward knee joint thing was the source of most my alignment issues from the legs, right down to the feet. Seems counter intuitive till you see how it all fits up. I also found that extending the ankles and lining up the feet, helped a lot in getting rid of the join between the feet. Once you get it lined up, you just collapse the ankle back in and it's all nice and tight. Well, the top of mine is that way at least. The bottom, not so much.
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Sorry, I should have been more clear as well - I'm specifically talking about uneven droop not that there is droop. Anhedral is definitely supposed to be there. What I should have said is that there's only extra sprue marks on one side and it looks like more than enough to affect how that wing closes up against the hinge. But based on what others are saying, even when that's perfectly flush, it still seems the wing won't sit the same as the other side. Anyone tried to trim the two pegs that fit into the slots? Maybe they're just a touch too long on the wing with more droop.
