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Captain’s log: Tuesday, February 25th.


In the previous installment, we saw some of the very preliminary steps of the scrathbuilding process. This wek, we get int the messy stuff!


Pic 01: Once the general outline is achieved, the paper template can e removed and I can then use the dremel with a rough grinding wheel to begin to shape the curvature of the parts.



Pic 02: it’s very easy to slip-up and remove too much material ith the Dremel, so I get reasonably close, then proceed the rest of the way with coarse (90 grit) sanding paper to achieve semi-final shaping.



Pic 03: some of the more complex parts (in this case the shins) require multiple operations in varying order. The part being bench saded is actually two halves that have been temporarily glued together. I can separate them so as to check the symmetry as I go.



Pic 04: the same part goes back under the mill while it’s still relatively square so that I can create the openings for the knee and foot attachments.




Pic 05: the thigh parts from last week have been further refined. These seemingly simple pieces have required quite a bit of time to make, because they need to be mirror images of each other.




Pic 06: the commercial ball-joints available simply aren’t large nor strong enough to support the kit, so I decided to make my own. This will also help conserve the aesthetics of the design.




Pic 07: some of the finished joints. The light green units will be for the hips, while the dark blue will be used for the shoulders, knees and ankles.



Pic 08: as you might expect, there are some significant gaps in the line-art from one illustration to another. Depending on how you interpret the illustrations, the main view of the Malar indicates that the collar has a seemingly triangular shape that tapers to the front, but upon watching the Anime and comparing with other views, that collar is drawn tighter to the neck. Thakfully, there’s putty for that…



Pic 09: a crude assembly of the arm components. I’m trying to get the best range of motion out of the parts, but the design has its limits.




Pics 10 and 11: the knee joint isn’t too bad. I’m debating on whether or not a double-joint is warranted here.






Pic 12: the main body parts, now taking shape. From this int on, most of the hard work is in the rear-view mirror. Now I’ll have to do a lot of small adjustments and repairs to get the shapes just right. I’m very pleased with what I have so far, and I hope you are too!


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On 2/26/2019 at 12:02 PM, cool8or said:

I always amazed about how fast do you work. Cool!!

It helps when you don't work in an office where your co-workers are trying to chat with you every 15 minutes. ^_^

Just FYI, the ball-joints should be adequate for the figure, but if you decide to mount the shield and blaster, even if they're hollowed-out you'll have to fix the pose due to the extra weight.

Edited by captain america
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2 hours ago, edstuff said:

I wish I had like 1000 bucks to just play with. I'd buy this and a few of your other kits

Well-worth it, if you have any modeling skills at all.  

Lookin' fine, Cap'n.  :good:

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2 minutes ago, captain america said:

Masters should be done around the 15th, and molds maybe a week later. The first kits should be cast a couple of days after that.

So sounds like it should be ready to start shipping around end of the month. Awesome! :D

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Masters are almost done; will be going into mold-prep tomorrow! :yahoo:

First pic was crudely Photoshopped to approximate the look of the completed model. I wanted to avoid tinkering with the masters to much to avoid damaging them before everything is molded. The parts in glossy purple will be molded translucent, and those will need to be cast in order for me to better show you the inner detail of the eye, which I most certainly did not forget!

The blaster and buckler can mount either on the arms or the back, just like the line-art; the little latches on the upper shoulders being quite functional. The blaster is mostly hollow and very light, but the use of the shield will require gluing/locking the joints, just because of the extra weight loading. I'm a little bit frustrated with my iPod camera, which produces a fish-eye effect and alters the look of the figure, but take my word for it, the proportions are done right IRL.







IMG_1257 copy.jpg



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Hi guys!

Molding process is in full swing. For those of you who aren't aware, I like to pour my molds as one piece, let harden, and then carefully extract the masters using a sharp scalpel to strategically slice the mold open. The masters themselves are first hot glued to a plexiglass base, and rudimentary scribbles are made with a sharpie to guide my cutting. I used to loathe this process, because on occasion, a stray part would detach from the base and float to the surface after I'd pour the rubber, thereby ruining the mold.

I seem to have solved this problem now by pouring bigger, more complex molds in two shots: the first pour only fills a thid of the mold box, which I let harden for about 8 hours before filling the mold box with the rest of the mold material. This not only helps to seal the gap between the plexiglass base and the mold box, but also helps to anchor the parts into place, thus reducing the chance that parts might detach from the base. Just figured I'd share a helpful trick. :)


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