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Hey everyone! As some of you have already seen on the Arcadia YF-19 thread and my general custom release thread - I've finally gotten my rendition of the YF-19's arm weapon from Shapeways;

post-1623-0-57792900-1397823565_thumb.jpg post-1623-0-36975600-1397823570_thumb.jpg post-1623-0-31637600-1397823574_thumb.jpg

I'm going to use this thread to document the process of getting a 3D print up to spec, start to finish. I have a long weekend and hope to get it done between hanging with the family (4yo son and pregnant wife!) and lounging about /packing the house for a move over the next few days. Feel free to ask any questions regarding ordering or preparing the print.

First off (after initial fitting of parts and testing on Alpha-One :D ) I separate all the parts and soak them in a not-quite-hot-but-not-warm tub of water with regular washing detergent. I then scrub each piece (carefully) with a toothbrush and then put in a second bath of just-hot-water (don't want to warp the plastic) and then scrub again and rinse in some more warm water - shake them off and take outside to dry in the sun for a good few hours, turning them all the while so each surface gets a decent amount of exposure;

post-1623-0-52289400-1397823582_thumb.jpg post-1623-0-46076400-1397823586_thumb.jpg post-1623-0-80743400-1397823589_thumb.jpg

I then use a primer (Mr.Surfacer if u can get it or Tamiya works well too) and lightly coat all surfaces and let dry for about 4 hours - again, turning so each surface gets a good dose. Now you can clearly see the print lines - they look severe here cause I used the macro setting on my camera, but to the naked eye, it appears much smoother. Still, it will require sanding.

post-1623-0-82709400-1397823592_thumb.jpg post-1623-0-42854000-1397823597_thumb.jpg

post-1623-0-40897600-1397823603_thumb.jpg post-1623-0-93394400-1397823669_thumb.jpg post-1623-0-11280000-1397823675_thumb.jpg

post-1623-0-84763900-1397823681_thumb.jpg post-1623-0-20966700-1397823686_thumb.jpg

I've now sanded the pieces as best I can given the awkward angles (no photos yet! tomorrow :D ) using Tamiya Finishing Abrasives P320 grain - using the P2000 did little, so not worth using it. I can now see where the primer has filled in the print line grooves. Will update with new photos of the sanded (will also brush with a dry toothbrush to get rid of the sanded primer and plastic and also pick out debris from details with a pin-needle or hobby blade) pieces and next round of primer and/or base colours - as well as what Tamiya colours I use.

And a couple more pics for the lulz;

post-1623-0-42561800-1397823577_thumb.jpg post-1623-0-92600200-1397823689_thumb.jpg post-1623-0-92259500-1397823694_thumb.jpg

Edited by Kurisama
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I've made stuff wit the FUD material, and it's got a thick film of whatever they use when it's cured. This is a great tutorial. I usually use Simple Green as a nice anti grease agent, toothbrush, and so on. I didn't realize there were that many lines in that material, but not impossible to take out, as you seem to be doing very well. I'll be looking at this thread as well.

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Hey everyone! As some of you have already seen on the Arcadia YF-19 thread and my general custom release thread - I've finally gotten my rendition of the YF-19's arm weapon from Shapeways;

attachicon.gifYF-19_AC_open_profile.JPG attachicon.gifYF-19_AC_openclose_front.jpg attachicon.gifYF-19_AC_openclose_side.jpg

I'm going to use this thread to document the process of getting a 3D print up to spec, start to finish. I have a long weekend and hope to get it done between hanging with the family (4yo son and pregnant wife!) and lounging about /packing the house for a move over the next few days. Feel free to ask any questions regarding ordering or preparing the print.

First off (after initial fitting of parts and testing on Alpha-One :D ) I separate all the parts and soak them in a not-quite-hot-but-not-warm tub of water with regular washing detergent. I then scrub each piece (carefully) with a toothbrush and then put in a second bath of just-hot-water (don't want to warp the plastic) and then scrub again and rinse in some more warm water - shake them off and take outside to dry in the sun for a good few hours, turning them all the while so each surface gets a decent amount of exposure;

attachicon.gifYF-19_AC_z001.jpg attachicon.gifYF-19_AC_z002.jpg attachicon.gifYF-19_AC_z003.jpg

I then use a primer (Mr.Surfacer if u can get it or Tamiya works well too) and lightly coat all surfaces and let dry for about 4 hours - again, turning so each surface gets a good dose. Now you can clearly see the print lines - they look severe here cause I used the macro setting on my camera, but to the naked eye, it appears much smoother. Still, it will require sanding.

attachicon.gifYF-19_AC_z004.jpg attachicon.gifYF-19_AC_z005.jpg

attachicon.gifYF-19_AC_z006.JPG attachicon.gifYF-19_AC_z007.JPG attachicon.gifYF-19_AC_z008.JPG

attachicon.gifYF-19_AC_z009.JPG attachicon.gifYF-19_AC_z010.JPG

I've now sanded the pieces as best I can given the awkward angles (no photos yet! tomorrow :D ) using Tamiya Finishing Abrasives P320 grain - using the P2000 did little, so not worth using it. I can now see where the primer has filled in the print line grooves. Will update with new photos of the sanded (will also brush with a dry toothbrush to get rid of the sanded primer and plastic and also pick out debris from details with a pin-needle or hobby blade) pieces and next round of primer and/or base colours - as well as what Tamiya colours I use.

And a couple more pics for the lulz;

attachicon.gifYF-19_AC_pose1.JPG attachicon.gifYF-19_AC_z011.JPG attachicon.gifYF-19_AC_z012.JPG

That last pic is B.A.D.A.S.S.

Edited by Mommar
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Thanks Mommar! Glad you dig.

Great tutorial! thank you very much for sharing ^_^

the 19 looks so much badass with it, please send MrK a pics of it when you're done.

Lol - thank you very much - although, I'm a twitter neophyte, I wouldn't know how to do that!!!

Good thread. Will be monitoring.

I hope it helps!

I've made stuff wit the FUD material, and it's got a thick film of whatever they use when it's cured. This is a great tutorial. I usually use Simple Green as a nice anti grease agent, toothbrush, and so on. I didn't realize there were that many lines in that material, but not impossible to take out, as you seem to be doing very well. I'll be looking at this thread as well.

Yeah - that film it has is crazy, gets everywhere after you handle it - almost feels like my mum's industrial sewing machine oil. Anyways - get ready for a mini-update :D

Here are the pieces that have been sanded;

post-1623-0-77920100-1397995173_thumb.jpg post-1623-0-67507900-1397995178_thumb.jpg

As u can see, some of the panel lines are filled and some rough area still remain as they're hard to get to and I'm no hobby modeller.

So any-who, there was a slight delay as I ran out of the gray I was using after only barely coating 1 piece of the several that would need it.

post-1623-0-41965200-1397995184_thumb.jpg post-1623-0-91208200-1397995187_thumb.jpg

So I had to wait for the shops to open due to the Easter long-weekend. For those of you playing at home I'm using Tamiya TS-67 IJIN GRAY which is a touch darker (or lighter? i forget) than the grey FAST packs already - but passable to me - there is another gray (TS-68, TS-66?) that may be a better match - but without the FAST pack in hand, it was hard to tell - besides once I clear coat, might not be that much of a difference.

So once I had the paint - coated the 3 remaining pieces first on the underside and then a few light passes from the sides in both direction at an angle - then a good couple front and back passes on the main flat surface area to get a nice and smooth finish - I've found if I go for the 'beauty-part' first and the surrounding areas second - I may spray too much on the part that will draw the most attention and loose detail and have paint accumulate - this is bad. Don't over applicate or spray directly on the pieces with no lead-up. You can always leave to dry and come back to see if you need to apply more.

I'm also using the Tamiya Matt White and Matt Black (missiles and inner-gun parts, respectively) as well as eventually Tamiya Camel Yellow for the missile tips. I still have my Games Workshop paints form 20 years ago, and used gunmetal to paint the inner-gun parts - at first dry brushing, but then more of an actual layer of paint. Again, I'm no painter - so some of the metal paint started to clump in small grains - so I had to add more paint quicker and more evenly - but I hope the clear coat will smooth it all out.

There is still some black in the crevices, and I may just do an ink wash yet. Then I used shining gold to pick out some greebles and a watered-down dwarf bronze over some of the gold parts to give a cool looking composite metal look - photos to come tomorrow. I then also used mithril silver on the hydraulics and some key edges to make them pop.

For some reason the white on the missile parts are not covering well - so I am sanding again so another application of white will make it more even. Going to apply a second coat of gray to the 4 pieces (3 covers and 1 arm brace) and leave in the sun all day to make sure it's all dry - will then look at seeing if I have any relevant decals to apply before the matt clear coat.

Stay tuned!

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Looks great so far. Were you just using sand paper, or those grit pastes that smooth things out? I have a couple of pieces for a kit I did awhile back, and just bought some of that grit paste stuff, and was hoping to try it out on F.U.D. material to see how well it'll take out the scale lines. Also have a purpose now, and I'm saving up for a Form 1 3D printer, which will do comparable work to the F.U.D. I should have it around October (hopefully). We'll see. Still doing research on the best printer for my needs, and material is important, as I'm sure you know. I will get one of these arm cannons eventually, as soon as I finally have cash (trips, bills, etc etc.)

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The Ultra detail is usually 3 times more than the cheap WSF type. But you're saving yourself a whole lot of headache from all the sanding. If you buy the WSF version, I swear, you'd want to pay someone $50 just to sand it.

Also remember this is still all new technology. This isn't over the counter pieces of plastic. The FUD material is actually a fraction of the cost from other places on the net for the detail it gives you. It's actually 3 times cheaper from other places.

When sanding to get form, you should always use a backing material for the sanding paper. It's best to use nail filing sticks. If you use your hand and just the sand paper, the paper will curve over the lines you're trying to erase. Even on curved surfaces. The unreachable cracks and corners are just impossible to get to. Sandpaper by itself is only good for smoothing the actual texture of the surface or the paint.

I bought these last year, they were $11 each at the time, totally worth it:

220/320 Grit : http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006PQD1O/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 400/600 Grit: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006PS3G2/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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Yeh...I hear you, I'm learning on the Mospeada 1:48 figs. I just can't get to every nook and cranny to sand them down. And even the flat bits you can get to, some just don't seem to ever get perfectly smooth and end up looking slightly rough when painted. Oh well, like you said, newer technology and all...

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If more people bought those things. I'd be happy to smooth them down and have them recasted so there would be less work for everyone. That's partly why I created the FB page, so projects like that and Kurisamas will have more exposure. Especially Macross projects. I need really good pictures with great pixel count though guys! ;)

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Looks great so far. Were you just using sand paper, or those grit pastes that smooth things out? I have a couple of pieces for a kit I did awhile back, and just bought some of that grit paste stuff, and was hoping to try it out on F.U.D. material to see how well it'll take out the scale lines. Also have a purpose now, and I'm saving up for a Form 1 3D printer, which will do comparable work to the F.U.D. I should have it around October (hopefully). We'll see. Still doing research on the best printer for my needs, and material is important, as I'm sure you know. I will get one of these arm cannons eventually, as soon as I finally have cash (trips, bills, etc etc.)

Yep, just sand paper - what are these grit pastes? Easy to use? Would be interested to see what printer you go for - I'm interested in getting one myself.

I want to order this in the high end frosted ultra detail Shapeways material ...but $77 + shipping??? OUCH!

I don't think you need to go that high (FUD) Frosted detail would still save you a lof of work, go with that option if you can. Yeah - I hard;y order lately - it's $20 shipping - even if the piece costs me $5 :(

The Ultra detail is usually 3 times more than the cheap WSF type. But you're saving yourself a whole lot of headache from all the sanding. If you buy the WSF version, I swear, you'd want to pay someone $50 just to sand it.

Also remember this is still all new technology. This isn't over the counter pieces of plastic. The FUD material is actually a fraction of the cost from other places on the net for the detail it gives you. It's actually 3 times cheaper from other places.

When sanding to get form, you should always use a backing material for the sanding paper. It's best to use nail filing sticks. If you use your hand and just the sand paper, the paper will curve over the lines you're trying to erase. Even on curved surfaces. The unreachable cracks and corners are just impossible to get to. Sandpaper by itself is only good for smoothing the actual texture of the surface or the paint.

I bought these last year, they were $11 each at the time, totally worth it:

220/320 Grit : http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006PQD1O/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 400/600 Grit: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006PS3G2/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks for the links - this is a great idea, will use these next time I have large flat areas to do - like the VF-0D wings I'll get to eventually.

If more people bought those things. I'd be happy to smooth them down and have them recasted so there would be less work for everyone. That's partly why I created the FB page, so projects like that and Kurisamas will have more exposure. Especially Macross projects. I need really good pictures with great pixel count though guys! ;)

I'm sure we could work something out - that'd be beneficial to both of us :) And when the heck am I going to bet on the FB page!!!?! :p I see other project on there and am like 'dang it! I do hard work too!!!' :D

Ok, update time - here are some pics of the pieces with only 1 coat of colour, I have now done a second coat (and I think a third maybe?) but the white spray ain't covering - even after being sanded back, not sure what to do here. Maybe prime again, a double coat then white? Anyways here is after one coat, and metallics applied as said in previous post;

post-1623-0-31248000-1398076411_thumb.jpg post-1623-0-74363200-1398076421_thumb.jpg

After a second coat;

post-1623-0-11316300-1398076416_thumb.jpg

I couldn't resist a fitting again, so enjoy;

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post-1623-0-01000800-1398076439_thumb.jpg post-1623-0-29813600-1398076442_thumb.jpg post-1623-0-74652300-1398076481_thumb.jpg

post-1623-0-28651400-1398076489_thumb.jpg post-1623-0-05437300-1398076515_thumb.jpg post-1623-0-73985100-1398076520_thumb.jpg

post-1623-0-03248000-1398076526_thumb.jpg post-1623-0-32684400-1398076535_thumb.jpg post-1623-0-27405200-1398076541_thumb.jpg

Still needs a third coat to smooth out some areas - and then I think I'll skip the decals, add some ink wash to the metallic crevices and then finish with a coat or two of matt clear. Updated next weekend - hope this helps!

post-1623-0-30615200-1398076548_thumb.jpg

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This is all going up, I assure you. Just give me some money shots... pictures are awesome, just less clutter on the background. I know, it's picky but after posting on it for a while now, I can tell which type of images gets the most reach.

Looking great BTW!!!

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Yep, just sand paper - what are these grit pastes? Easy to use? Would be interested to see what printer you go for - I'm interested in getting one myself.

Something like this... http://micro-surface.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=272_1_10_17_19&products_id=104&zenid=56e86c72eebc548e4eee071dc7245a8d

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Would it be possible to make those actuators work so that the cover parts actuially work without swapping parts?

Of course that would require smaller weapon parts to fit inside the covers..

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Thanks dude!

I have given the pieces another coat of grey after drying for a week - but before I sprayed, I noticed a dull foggy residue on the pieces - I wiped it off and it came back after a day or so, so i hesitantly wiped it off as best I could and resprayed and left in the sun all day - again, the residue is there - but no bubble as the grey is perfect when I wipe it away (minus all the small imperfections I missed when i sanded) - so will leave another week and spray with clear :D

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