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VF-18S Hornet

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Different? What do you mean?

I'm using a black velvety type cloth that helps diffuse and absorb the light.

I mean your placement of the decals I though you had them placed on differently that's all, since you just answered my question, just one more. Where did you get it from, I could use something like that? Got a box to turn into a lightbox but need the black velvet.

Edited by VF-18S Hornet
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I mean your placement of the decals I though you had them placed on differently that's all, since you just answered my question, just one more. Where did you get it from, I could use something like that? Got a box to turn into a lightbox but need the black velvet.

I just took inspiration in placement from the VF-171 line art and the real life F-117 and a little of my own judgment.

You can find chromakey backdrops and such on Amazon.com. You could get a whole light tent kit from there for cheap.

Adorama.com as well.

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Thanks I'll look into it, I defenately need something other than my dresser top as a backgroung for my collections so I won't see that little quip about my lotion being near my Valks. ^_^

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What did u use for clear? Looks good. I'd like to give my totally matte yammies a little semigloss myself but don't want to end up with something as glossy as say a bandai dx chogokin Mac f valk.

I use Future acrylic floor polish mixed with some Tamiya flat base. It's more durable than the garbage that Testors has available, non-toxic (still wear a breather and have good ventilation when spraying!), resistant to yellowing, and you just add in different amounts of the flat base to achieve how matte a coating you want. It also auto levels pretty well so you can brush it on if you can't spray with an airbrush.

Adding none of the flat base will get you a super shiny gloss. A small amount will get you a semi-gloss finish. A large amount will get you a very matte finish. Too much and it turns white-ish when it dries. I went for very flat coat on the 17. It's more apparent in the fighter mode pics on the previous page.

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I use Future acrylic floor polish mixed with some Tamiya flat base. It's more durable than the garbage that Testors has available, non-toxic (still wear a breather and have good ventilation when spraying!), resistant to yellowing, and you just add in different amounts of the flat base to achieve how matte a coating you want. It also auto levels pretty well so you can brush it on if you can't spray with an airbrush.

Adding none of the flat base will get you a super shiny gloss. A small amount will get you a semi-gloss finish. A large amount will get you a very matte finish. Too much and it turns white-ish when it dries. I went for very flat coat on the 17. It's more apparent in the fighter mode pics on the previous page.

thnx for the info. also is it thick enough that it will effect joints/movement like a coat of regular paint or does it go on thinner so you can just "go to town" spraying everything? lastly, does it effect the tactile feel? i wouldn't want the valk to feel tacky/sticky or crusty. thanks in advance.

Edited by Mechapilot77
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thnx for the info. also is it thick enough that it will effect joints/movement like a coat of regular paint or does it go on thinner so you can just "go to town" spraying everything? lastly, does it effect the tactile feel? i wouldn't want the valk to feel tacky/sticky or crusty. thanks in advance.

The amount of the flat base added can affect how it feels. Also, how it's applied (with a brush vs an airbrush) can affect the feel as well. The lacquer based clear coats I tried using in the past always felt sticky to the touch even after months. With the Future floor polish, once it's properly dried, it doesn't feel sticky or crusty. With the flat coats, it just feels like how many matte surfaces feel. The gloss and semi-gloss coats still feel pretty slick and smooth.

The number of coats you apply would obviously affect the thickness, but I've never had an issue with the clear coat getting in the way of joints.after spraying on 3 or 4 coats.

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Finally got around to doing my Ozma VF-25S with a little more weathering and a flat coat.

I would pay something for a step-by-step instructions... :ph34r:

Edit: Oh you said "spraying" and "airbrush"... Here is my bungle...

Edited by charger69
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Yeah, an airbrush isn't needed if one doesn't have access to one. I just prefer it since it's easier. Especially on the super glossy surfaces of the bandai valks. It's such a huge pain and highly frustring trying to brush on Future as it is has a tendency to pool up on that plastic they use. It's like trying to brush oil on a teflon coated frying pan. The YF-29 was the last time I tried it and it required the patience of a saint and many many many tries for me to get it to coat even a small area. I eventually did it, but that was the last time I would attempt that. Yamato valks are easy to brush it on. It just stays in place.

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I @%ing hate all of you bastards. Now I have to pick up a whole bunch of valks that I had no intention of doing until I saw how awesome they looked in these pictures, including the 11, 22 and now the 19. I really hate Macross 7, but that 19 looks so badass with the sound boosters. There goes another few hundred dollars. Bah! You guys suck.

QFT

agree with it all except for the M7 part.

Edited by BeyondTheGrave
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Yeah, an airbrush isn't needed if one doesn't have access to one. I just prefer it since it's easier. Especially on the super glossy surfaces of the bandai valks. It's such a huge pain and highly frustring trying to brush on Future as it is has a tendency to pool up on that plastic they use. It's like trying to brush oil on a teflon coated frying pan. The YF-29 was the last time I tried it and it required the patience of a saint and many many many tries for me to get it to coat even a small area. I eventually did it, but that was the last time I would attempt that. Yamato valks are easy to brush it on. It just stays in place.

Have you ever tried adding a drop or two of washing-up liquid as surfactant? That should help with glossy surfaces.

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Have you ever tried adding a drop or two of washing-up liquid as surfactant? That should help with glossy surfaces.

An interesting idea. Would that affect the durability or its ability to stick to the surface? I used dish soap back when I used the pro-modeller's wash, but that was just for panel lining so any effect the dish soap would have would not matter.

In any case, it's a non-issue when I airbrush it on, but that idea may help anyone using a brush if someone is wanting to clear coat one of the Bandai DX's.

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It was the other way around...the gun doesn't collapse. It's permanently extended, which was a bad idea on Bandai's part in my opinion because there really isn't enough clearance to lower the front landing gear. Well...there is but the front gear hits the tip of the gun on the way down and on the way up :)

Edit: Damn, beaten by a minute ;)

Edited by xrentonx
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I thought everyone was complaining that the 171's gun didn't extend?

No, people complained that the gunpod doesn't collapse like the VF-17 does

EDIT: Dammit! Gotta learn to refresh the page before replying!

Edited by Matrix Soul
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