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Know of any programs that can wipe an HDD completely? 32-bit system

We talking "complete wipe due to sensitive data" or "I just want to clean it"-wipe? If it's the latter, any low-level formatting will do the job or KillDisk. If you want the former, then you'll probably want to look for a program that can do a DoD 5220.22-M-standard wipe or adheres to a certified cleaning standard (Like DiskWipe or SecureErase (no longer supported)).

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Or, you could take the drive apart, and bash the platters with your favorite data-erase tool. A hammer works pretty well for this.

Seriously, though, do you want to be able to use the drive afterwards, or do you want to completely destroy it?

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Or, you could take the drive apart, and bash the platters with your favorite data-erase tool. A hammer works pretty well for this.

That's how I "erased" my last PC's hard drive. Or maybe 2 PC's ago. Either way, cheaper and easier/faster than using any program IMHO.

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That would work too. You could try dropping it off a 20-story building for added measure. :lol:

Or, you could take the drive apart, and bash the platters with your favorite data-erase tool. A hammer works pretty well for this.

Seriously, though, do you want to be able to use the drive afterwards, or do you want to completely destroy it?

I figured something out. Didn't want to use it afterwards. took it to best buy for recycling.

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One other option: One of the local computer shops has a machine that will fire a pair of pistons into the drive. Puts a couple of neat (well, not so neat) holes in the drive, totaling the interior. Of course, it's probably more fun with a hammer and some safety goggles.

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  • 2 weeks later...

How hard is it to replace a dell lcd monitor on a laptop?

Inspiron 6000

going by the user manual, not that hard: http://support.dell.com/support/edocs/systems/ins6000/en/om/D5181bk5.pdf (pages 87-90).

of couse if you're planing on replaceing just the LCD and reusing the bezel/lid, you'll need to look at this:

http://www.insidemylaptop.com/replace-damaged-lcd-screen-in-dell-inspiron-6000-laptop/

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idk. a new version runs 600-750 usd.vs. repair 400 usd.

dell 17r

Exactly. If the repair bill is more than 1/4 the price of a new unit, it's not worth it. You can go ahead and have it fixed, but what if you run into the same problem? Best thing to do is to salvage what you can from that laptop. The hard drive can still be used as a backup unit if it still works - just buy a USB external casing for it. If the RAM is DDR3, then you can still use it on a new laptop. Simple economics.

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My wife wants a new computer this year and more than likely a laptop, biggest caviot, she wants one with a full keyboard, including a numeric keypad, and it should be a good photo editting rig, that is what she does the most on her computer. So, anyone have any suggestions? Also, she wants to keep the price under a $1000 and preferably around $500.

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My wife wants a new computer this year and more than likely a laptop, biggest caviot, she wants one with a full keyboard, including a numeric keypad, and it should be a good photo editting rig, that is what she does the most on her computer. So, anyone have any suggestions? Also, she wants to keep the price under a $1000 and preferably around $500.

I like my HP, but I re installed w7 because of the bloatware. It renders HD vid pretty good for that price point. Photo editing wont tax it whatsoever and that includes raws from my T2i Im sure one with th full size keyboard wouldn't be much more then what I paid
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model is your HP?

G42-415dx, she wouldnt like the keyboard, I think its OK

HP G42-415DX Laptop / AMD Athlon II Processor / 14"LED HD display / 3GB DDR3 Memory / 320GB Hard Drive / Built-in webcam with microphone / Multiformat DVD±RW/CD-RW drive with double-layer support / Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium Edition 64-bi

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My wife wants a new computer this year and more than likely a laptop, biggest caviot, she wants one with a full keyboard, including a numeric keypad, and it should be a good photo editting rig, that is what she does the most on her computer. So, anyone have any suggestions? Also, she wants to keep the price under a $1000 and preferably around $500.

You'll probably want to look at a minimum 15" with 4GB of RAM and a discrete video card. If we're talking heavy Photoshopping (i.e. layers upon layers upon layers of editing), minimum of a high end Core i3 or equivalent AMD CPU will do and a discrete vid card. I don't think you can keep it under $500. Under a $1000 is doable. If we're talking removing red-eye or adding texts or changing color on images, I'm sure a Core i3 with integrated video will do and you could do it for $500 or less and invest in a good 23"+ monitor.

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The HP has a discrete vid card wth the AMD processors (bout a gig I think) which was what I was looking for,,, heres the newer model and it has one more gig of ram. heck of a deal, but like you said, the screen and keyboard are limiters

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/HP+-+Pavilion+Laptop+/+AMD+Phenom%26%23153%3B+II+Processor+/+14%22+Display+/+4GB+Memory+/+320GB+Hard+Drive+-+Pewter/3184308.p?id=1218384138374&skuId=3184308

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I've got a 17in HP dv7 and it matches your discription pretty well. When I bought it my requirements where about the same (full keyboard+number pad, good for photo editing and sub $1000 price point plus a minimum 500GB HDD and a blu-ray player.) and I've been pretty happy with it. Mine cost about $750 when I bought it over a year ago, and I've seen newer models recently with better processors and more ram for about the same price.

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It doesn't have a discrete card... but 6GB of RAM and a Core i7 processor will likely make up for that, unless she's doing really heavy Photoshopping. $650 this week at Staples. 15.6" 640GB hard drive, Harman Kardon speakers, and a dedicated number pad.

Toshiba Satellite P755-S5390

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I am not sure if this is the right tread for this so I apologize if it is not. I have a dumb question I have a receiver with 2 HDMI ports which I would like to use just for the reason it would clear up some of the rat nest in the back of my stereo.

The problem is that I do not have a HD TV connected to that so is it possible to use the HDMI ports for my Blue ray and Xbox but the output to the TV will be component is this doable?

Also can anyone recommend a good component switch that is reasonable priced for under 20 buck I only need another 2 ports

Thanks in advance

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I'm "guessing" that there are some receivers that can convert signals-you'd have to determine if yours is capable of doing such a thing. I know that with mine all in and out going signals have to be the same type...

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  • 3 weeks later...

OK, I know that setting your refresh rate on your computer too high is bad for your display. But what if it's set too low?

I picked up a new Sharp LED TV for my living room. As I'm wont to do, I want to hook a PC up to it, and it's got a VGA jack for it. At the moment, I don't have any extra VGA cables though. Mobo's got HDMI out, so I figure I'll just use that. Except, rather oddly, the TV looks like it's got some overscan. (Not as bad as my old DLP, but still, it's an LED... it shouldn't have any!) I Google it, and it sounds like it's common on Sharp TV, somthing about it not rendering the display dot-by-dot. People suggest you can force it to do dot-by-dot by dropping the refresh rate. I check the default settings... 1920x1080, 60Hz. The TV, for the record, is a 120Hz display. Anyway, I use the Nvidia settings to create a new custom resolution, 1920x1080 55Hz, and boom, picture takes up the whole screen, no overscan. So is it problem solved? Or am I just creating a new one?

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So is it problem solved? Or am I just creating a new one?

Probably creating one. Will you notice it? Probably not. It would probably end up annoying you more than giving you a headache like the old CRTs. With video, things might not interlace properly. It might just be enough for you to notice, but it shouldn't be bad. You may see some motion blur or some flickering (If you can call it that since LCDs don't really flicker) since you're slowing down the refresh rate. Are you creating one? Yes. LCDs have a "optimal" setting to avoid issues. Will it be a substanial problem? Don't think so. Unless you're sensitive to those changes, you should be fine.

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Probably creating one. Will you notice it? Probably not. It would probably end up annoying you more than giving you a headache like the old CRTs. With video, things might not interlace properly. It might just be enough for you to notice, but it shouldn't be bad. You may see some motion blur or some flickering (If you can call it that since LCDs don't really flicker) since you're slowing down the refresh rate. Are you creating one? Yes. LCDs have a "optimal" setting to avoid issues. Will it be a substanial problem? Don't think so. Unless you're sensitive to those changes, you should be fine.

I was less concerned with me and more concernerd about potentially harming a TV I can't afford to replace. I've got a couple cables coming, so I'll try a VGA cable later. In the meantime, if it's not going to damage the TV,I'll try 55hz and see if it bothers me.

EDIT: To heck with it... I took the computer I had hooked to the TV into the bedroom, and brought the one that was in there into the living room. It's a much better computer all around anyway. That one I hooked to the TV with a VGA connection, and it output 1920x1080 60hz without any fuss. That gives me a few options to play games on the TV anyway (not as good as my actual gaming rig, but respectable with a 3GHz Core 2 Duo, 3GB of RAM, and a GeForce 9800GTX+). The one in the bedroom is a tad on the underpowered side, but all I need it for, all I was using the better one for, is Netflix, Hulu, and VLC.

At least until I decide it's time for a new gaming rig. Then everyone will rotate...

Edited by mikeszekely
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  • Since I'm about to kick Verizon and my $100 monthly bill to the curb I thought I'd get really weird and start using cell phones from back in the day:
  • phonesbfw2.jpg

1996 Motorola Startac on the left, one of the first flip-phones, and one of the smallest phones of all time and even capable of texting, and on the right a 2000 Kyocera/Qualcomm QCP 860, one of the thinnest phones of the day at about half an inch. Most of you will probably think I'm nuts but I'm sure Shaorin will dig this, lol. I love the battery life also; how does 5 days with moderate calling and texting before the need to charge sound? Now, I've been having a sort of showdown between both phones as I try to decide which one I'm going to use. Everyone keeps telling me that call performance/quality is AWESOME from both, better and more clear than my friends have heard in a while. Question: this isn't the first time I've heard that old cell phones have better call quality-how is that possible? I would've figured that call quality should've astronomically improved from the 90's. Personally, I just think that people aren't used to hearing people talk on phones anymore. Anyway, just thought I'd show off my old 'tech... :rolleyes:

Edited by myk
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And I used to get teased about my net10 phone :p

Hey like the company tag line says, "No Bills, No Contracts, No Evil.. Of course, now my friends are telling me they'd rather I text them instead of call them, which kinda puts a damper on my old phones. Yeah, I can text on them but not having a qwerty keyboard is a bit of a deal breaker. I'm going to have to think this over... :unsure:

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