shiyao Posted October 26, 2006 Share Posted October 26, 2006 I accidentally airbrushed it mildly with some red paint. SO .. I cleverly applied thinner to it. And voila, it looks like this now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve68 Posted October 26, 2006 Share Posted October 26, 2006 Have you tried to polish it out? Try some good old fashioned Crest toothpaste and finish it off with some Tamiya polishing compound and then dip it in Future. It looks pretty thin though so I would be careful. Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shiyao Posted October 26, 2006 Share Posted October 26, 2006 ah ... what would the asian equivalent of Future be? Tamiya polishing compound .. don't think I've seen that in my hobby store .. here's a pic of the Dom's gun. it really is quite an ugly robot .... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dyowelb Posted October 26, 2006 Share Posted October 26, 2006 i would suggest to use very fine sand papers...from 2000 grit and up..then polish it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VF-19 Posted October 26, 2006 Share Posted October 26, 2006 How about not putting it in at all? I've got 2 MG Zakus that don't have their clear eyepieces in, and they look pretty good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azrael Posted October 26, 2006 Share Posted October 26, 2006 Merged MG Rick Dom thread with the general Gunpla thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
godfather Posted October 26, 2006 Share Posted October 26, 2006 That link mentions "new color" and shows a dry brushed chest area on the strike IWSP. What does this mean...that it comes pre-painted like that? Dunno. I'll tell ya once mine arrive in a few weeks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
port Posted October 27, 2006 Share Posted October 27, 2006 Dude. If it's acrylic paint just use Windex and a Q-tip. Done ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wolfx Posted October 27, 2006 Share Posted October 27, 2006 Dude. If it's acrylic paint just use Windex and a Q-tip. Done ! Nah i'm just wondering if that "weathered" effect is what they mean by "new color". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shiyao Posted October 27, 2006 Share Posted October 27, 2006 re the fogged over glass eyepiece: it's not acrylic paint, it's thinner. incidentally, how do you remove thinner from, say, a leather sofa? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
port Posted October 27, 2006 Share Posted October 27, 2006 I changed my Gundam layout a little. I'm tryng to put them all together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
port Posted October 27, 2006 Share Posted October 27, 2006 pic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azrael Posted October 27, 2006 Share Posted October 27, 2006 MG Strike Freedom prototype and BEECraft lineart Finally a head design I can agree with....3rd time's the charm....Interesting that they made the railguns extend.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
promethuem5 Posted October 28, 2006 Share Posted October 28, 2006 Dave, your setup is still one of the best I've ever seen! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Excillon Posted October 30, 2006 Share Posted October 30, 2006 Something really kick ass happened to me a little while back, and it's loosely related to Gundam models. Last week, I was building my 1/100 Sandrock Custom (I know, but I love wing and can't help it) and my 7 year old daughter sat next to me and started asking me about it. Next thing you know, I'm teaching her how to build a model and panel line. Then she started watching Gundam and she loves it, she has a crush on Trowa. Anyhow, I promised her we'd build the PG Strike Rouge next, so now I'm out 200 for a kit I never really wanted...I have the regular strike. At risk of sounding cheesy though, it's worth it. I even promised her we'd put it on display in her room. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shiyao Posted October 30, 2006 Share Posted October 30, 2006 Some painting questions: How were the green circled parts masked/painted? (Gundam 1/100 Seed Destiny Ungradeds) 1. (Saviour) Outside grey, inside black, but yellow trim around the INSIDE of the ... thingy 2. (Legend) Little cannons were molded onto the grey plastic as one piece, yet he's painted them all completely red, or at least enough red such that we cannot see that the other side is still grey Thanks guys, I've been wanting to start on these two kits but these issues keep daunting me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
promethuem5 Posted October 30, 2006 Share Posted October 30, 2006 Probably done with a brush Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F360° Posted October 30, 2006 Share Posted October 30, 2006 Some painting questions: How were the green circled parts masked/painted? (Gundam 1/100 Seed Destiny Ungradeds) 1. (Saviour) Outside grey, inside black, but yellow trim around the INSIDE of the ... thingy 2. (Legend) Little cannons were molded onto the grey plastic as one piece, yet he's painted them all completely red, or at least enough red such that we cannot see that the other side is still grey Thanks guys, I've been wanting to start on these two kits but these issues keep daunting me. 1, with a small brush, paint the yellow first, I'm lazy so i would even paint the black area yellow. So eveything will be yellow on the inside. Now for the black. Face the plastic moded piece up so it will be like a cup with the area you want to paint at the bottom of the cup. Because of gravity all the black paint will want to stay at the bottom so just a small bit should be enough and the paint will spread the whole bottom area and form a pretty oval shape similar to your glass drinks will form a circular shape if you lool at it from the top. ( if you are really lazy like me, can just use a black micro pen and just color the black in)then just finish off the outside with gray. 2. with a small brush, paint it carefully. it sounds harder but it's actually pretty easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sebastian Posted October 30, 2006 Share Posted October 30, 2006 IMHO is better to mask the outher part and airbrush in the right angle, then you will have the sides yellow, and the black circle done in one step. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azrael Posted October 30, 2006 Share Posted October 30, 2006 Some painting questions: How were the green circled parts masked/painted? (Gundam 1/100 Seed Destiny Ungradeds) 1. (Saviour) Outside grey, inside black, but yellow trim around the INSIDE of the ... thingy 2. (Legend) Little cannons were molded onto the grey plastic as one piece, yet he's painted them all completely red, or at least enough red such that we cannot see that the other side is still grey Thanks guys, I've been wanting to start on these two kits but these issues keep daunting me. 1) Paint the entire inside yellow. Use a fine brush (like a liner brush)and paint the inside vent black. Mask off the rest of the knee and paint the outside area grey. All done. 2) Mask the area off. Pull out the red paint and brush it on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shiyao Posted October 30, 2006 Share Posted October 30, 2006 (edited) wow thanks for the tips guys. sebastian, i *think* i know what you're trying to say - if it works, that'd be nifty. another quick question: PANEL LINING a model after painting - is a gloss coat necessary? i shouldn't try to panel line a model that just has PAINT on, correct? and panel lining on a flat coat is suicide? *EDIT* sorry, all this is here because I'm wasn't previously talking about Macross kits. though my current question is pretty much applicable to any model. Edited October 30, 2006 by shiyao Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azrael Posted October 30, 2006 Share Posted October 30, 2006 wow thanks for the tips guys. sebastian, i *think* i know what you're trying to say - if it works, that'd be nifty. another quick question: PANEL LINING a model after painting - is a gloss coat necessary? i shouldn't try to panel line a model that just has PAINT on, correct? and panel lining on a flat coat is suicide? Gloss or Flat coat is needed if you think the lines will fade or if you need protection. Panel lining should be done close to when the model is finished, ideally. There may be small areas that need additional work and additional painting which might ruin the panel line so to avoid the chance of repainting the panel line, it should be one of the last things you do. After painting, before gloss/flat coat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shiyao Posted October 31, 2006 Share Posted October 31, 2006 thanks azrael. my question was, actually, this: "Should I gloss coat my painted model before I panel line, so that I can wipe away stray ink marks?" I was of the understanding that you can't wipe away stray ink marks if there is a flat coat (or no coat). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azrael Posted October 31, 2006 Share Posted October 31, 2006 thanks azrael. my question was, actually, this: "Should I gloss coat my painted model before I panel line, so that I can wipe away stray ink marks?" I was of the understanding that you can't wipe away stray ink marks if there is a flat coat (or no coat). Ah. Then yes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
godfather Posted October 31, 2006 Share Posted October 31, 2006 According to R10, the "special option" version of the MG SF includes the following: MG STRIKE FREEDOM + Plated Joint parts + Jet effect parts + Adjustable Display Stand + Original Poster + Original Booklet! I'm assuming the "jet effects" are for the funnels, like on the HG Shiranui Akatsuki. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GRAND CANNON Posted November 1, 2006 Share Posted November 1, 2006 Yeah, it was reported from Hobby Shop Midori by Gunota, too: HSM reports the MG Strike Freedom special option includes DRAGOON effect parts, gold-plated joint parts, and a custom stand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
promethuem5 Posted November 1, 2006 Share Posted November 1, 2006 Gold plated joints make ugly Gundam designs look even gayer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kensei Posted November 1, 2006 Share Posted November 1, 2006 Like the Hyaku Shiki. Good thing they used it on the Strike Freedom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
promethuem5 Posted November 1, 2006 Share Posted November 1, 2006 Now now, the Shiki is alright looking... the gold on the freedom is just out of place and ugly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kensei Posted November 1, 2006 Share Posted November 1, 2006 Nah. Looks so plain, and terrible with the Ballute system, now that is the ultimate gayness. Akatsuki at least looked sharp. Strike Freedom only has a little bit of gold trim anyway, it's not overdone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azrael Posted November 1, 2006 Share Posted November 1, 2006 Meh....I'm still gonna repaint the gold-plated parts with Tamiya Gold Leaf, so meh. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MasterOfPuppets Posted November 4, 2006 Share Posted November 4, 2006 Are there any pics of the gold plated joint version vs the standard version? I wanna see if it looks good enough to dish out the extra cash for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azrael Posted November 4, 2006 Share Posted November 4, 2006 Are there any pics of the gold plated joint version vs the standard version? I wanna see if it looks good enough to dish out the extra cash for it. Nope. We only have the prototype and the Plamco Show display model. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shiyao Posted November 5, 2006 Share Posted November 5, 2006 Hot on the heels of the rather depressing Rick-Dom, I present to you: 1/60 Real Detail Force Impulse Gundam! The plan for this kit was to learn cementing and sanding. Of course, that didn't quite turn out as hoped ... (the following questions/comments are numbered according to the way the photos are arranged) 1. Impulse from the front. "Gundam Blue" is actually quite a kiddish looking colour. The end result is a blue that looks little different from the one that came on the sprues. 2. Impulse from the rear. Not your most poseable kit, the 1/60 actually has quite little (visible) detail (unlike, for instance, the OYW RX-78-2 MG kit). The detail is mostly hidden by shoulder covers, the light blue skirt covers and the chest covers. 3. Here is the end result of my cementing (I paint a line of cement over the joined parts, and then sand in a circular fashion). Precisely - seam line still visible. But this isn't as bad as ... 4. ... THIS disaster over here. What happened was, I assembled two left feet for the Impulse (put the thigh the wrong way round for this leg), so I had to rip both sides apart, re-cement and re-paint. 5. OK seriously, how do you panel line a painted model??? I had stray marker marks going everywhere. You CAN erase them off, but they are more persistent. And you can no longer do that "anyhow panel line everywhere and then rub off with tissue/cotton bud" trick. 6. Another "plan" for this kit was to become Supreme Champion Masker. I figured since I was going to cement the legs together, I would have to mask the knees off before painting over the legs. (You can see some stray white paint on the knee as a result of a poor prior masking.) It is true - you really can mask anything, as long as you're patient enough. 7. Lunmaria Hawke, Impulse, Hashin! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
promethuem5 Posted November 5, 2006 Share Posted November 5, 2006 Solid looking build, very clean. T finish off those seam lines, you simply need more cement and more sanding... might two or three applications. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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