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Everything posted by sqidd

  1. Thats kind of what I was thinking. I was fairly certain that my display's were not "TV" accurate. It doesn't matter if it looks cool, but it's nice to know if you wanted to be a purist that you could change things around a bit and get what you want. I think I am going to display one of my Roy's with Hikaru in the pilots sheet and my TV fastpacks that I got with my Hikaru VF-iJ "TV" version. The wing already has 001 on it so that is accurate. That would be a "TV" accurate Hikaru "Skull One" I think. I could do a TV Roy by simply removing his fastpacks I currently have on him. What was his wing number? was is 001 also?
  2. I get all my mechs from HoHotoys out of NY. They are great. I have pre-orders on: - VF-1S 25th x2 - YF-19 25th x2 - SV-51 Nora x2 - Mad Max 1:18 scale The best part is that I only give the a $50 deposit on each. And I have been getting them before the HLJ shipments seem to go out.
  3. I just got done un-boxing the VF-0S and they must have made some improvements over the last generation. I have one of the last generation but I never transformed it and never even set it on the landing gear for that matter. It cam out of the box and went right on a stand. Shoulders- The shoulders ball and socket are ROCK solid. I would go as far as saying they are borderline too tight, but I am sure they will loosen up a bit after it has been played with a few times. But I can’t see them becoming anything resembling floppy. The “shoulder pads” on the other hand flop around quite a bit unless they are locked in to their fully upright position. If they are not locked in there they will drop down until something stops them. They don’t present a problem except for when it is Gerwalk mode and the shoulders are under the wings and you can’t raise the shoulder pads high enough to lock them in because they get jammed under the wing pretty hard. In pic A you will see where the shoulder pads are locked into their fully upright position. You can note how they are jammed up under the wing a bit and that limits the angles you can get out of the arm for posing. In pic B you will see what they look like if they are not locked in. Feet- The fit will lock into place and allow you to pose it with confidence. Like I said above, I never tried this with my VF-0S that I have in fighter mode, but I did have a VF-0A and that one was displayed at a Batroid. The updated VF-0S has feet that work like the VF-0A and I would say they may even be a bit better than the locking mechanism in the VF-1 1/48’s. Broken Back Syndrome- I set this up in fighter mode sitting on the landing gear and there is no droop what so ever. The fighter is a rock. At no point in transforming it, displaying it, posing it did I once think that there was anything less than full blown stiffness going on. I think it’s safe to say the broken back syndrome is gone. Bicep Swivel- Very, very tight Stress marks on the gray shoulder piece underneath the exterior white armor- None The only gripe I have is that if you want to swivel the legs out to get it “toed out” while in Gerwalk so you can get that super aggressive nose down pose it is quite the balancing act to get it from collapsing on you. I have only tried this while it is sitting on my desktop though and the surface may as well be a skating rink. If it were on a surface that wasn’t so slick it probably wouldn’t be that big of a deal. Or, I bet you could apply a very small amount of rubber cement to the edges of the feet so it has some traction. I think that was all the gripes with the last Gen VF-0S. I hope mine is not a fluke and that you guys will order some and they will turn out substandard. I do have another one of these coming that I should have by Friday though. I will let you guys know if that one works as well as this one does when I get it. My conclusion is that this sucker rocks. Incredible level of ancillary items, the “Skull One” paint scheme and updated parts. I give it a A. I think you will enjoy one if you decide to get it. Hope this helped. Pic A Pic B
  4. I have two on pre-order. Can't WAIT!
  5. Can we get some sort of parts diagrams, with part number charts and the ability to order spare parts? Kind of like a car or motorcycle? This could help out in three ways. One, people could fix/update what they already have Second, they will seel more because they know they can fix what they buy opposed to replacing it Third, it will dramiticaly increase the number of "customs" out there because poeple will not be so afraid to modify something. The above three reasons are why the Mustang 5.0L is the most popular hot rod on the planet The above is why Ducati sells 50 times more bikes than the other two motorcycle manufacturers Any company offering a "toy" in this price range should have replacement parts available. I know it's an exteme analogy, but you don't trow your car away when it's broken do you? Do you make new parts for it when it breaks
  6. ..............section. But at the caore this is about the toys I have sitting here Ok, help me out with some continuity here. I have not seen DYRL, that’s next. I am on episode 27 of SDFM right now. The doodoo just hit the fan, the Earth has been leveled and the SDF-1 has deployed everything that it has (nice to see Monsters for a change). This is the first time you see Max and Mirias Blue and Red VF1-J’s with fastpacks and I think the is the second time you see Hikaru with fastpacks. I didn’t pay a whole lot of attention to the first time Hikaru had Fastpacks on, but this time I am. He is most certainly piloting the “Skull One”, right down to the yellow stripes. But his fastpacks have the red UN Spacey logo on them instead of the skull and bones. Now if I were trying to have TV replica toys and I wanted a Hikaru “Skull One” replica I would simply take a 1/48 VF-1S Roy, put a Hikaru pilot in the seat and put the red “Kites” on the fastpacks right? In episode 27 Hikaru's wing number is 001 (at least the freeze frame I looked at). Is this his correct wing number while piloting the VF-1S? If I wanted a TV replica Hikaru VF-1J then I would use a VF-1J with red accents, put a Hikaru pilot in the seat and don’t mount fastpacks because he never had any when he was flying a J model….correct? What was his wing # when he was in a J? And if I wanted a TV accurate Roy than I would just use a 1/48 Foker, but if I mounted fastpacks to it, it would cease to be a TV replica because Fokker never used them in SDFM right? If all of the above is correct then what part does the VF-1J Super Valkyrie Hikaru Ichijo Deluxe set with “TV” fastpacks play that I have sitting here unopened? As far as I can tell Hikaru never piloted a “J” with fastpacks in SDFM which is the “TV” version they are referred to right? I know there are about 25 questions above, but can someone give me a hand here? If I am displaying something and have the urge to be accurate, or at least know the reasons why I am not accurate I am going to need some questions answered. And for those of you waiting for my VF-0S with Ghost Booster review and are wondering why I am not posting about that, I have not had a chance to get it out of the box yet. I want to put it together in front of the TV in the living room and my wife has currently commandeered the big screen TV to watch Dancing With the Stars, which makes my brain leak out of my ears. I am watching SDFM in my bedroom while lying in bed (not a great spot to build a Valk) Thanks sqidd
  7. Uh, OH! Look what just showed up for the good guys! It's just a teaser though. I gotta leave right now and go do some work on the dyno. I will break this sucker out tonight. Someone post a list of the problems I am looking for. I had a VF-0A and had no issues and I transformed it all the way to Batroid. I have a VF-0S also, but it has never been transformed. I have no idea what improvements/issues I am looking for. I can't put it off any longer. I gotta put more shelves up tonight
  8. $25 very small cabinet $15 extra for glass door $750 worth of toys inside Not caring that you did it backwards.........priceless
  9. Sunblock? SPF15 And just think, their "skin" will be silky smooth.
  10. Try little patches of Velcro. That always works great
  11. How about adding an additional barrel and receiver on top and maybe even some optics. It could be a piggy back long range “sniper” armor piercing setup for taking out bad guys from a Looooooooookg way away. That would certainly “beef up” the gun pod. You could eve add a 10-20 round magazine to it so it’s complete.
  12. I'm completely talking out of my a$$ here but I think your right. It's the heat from the lights that is damaging and LED's are cool "burning"
  13. Wow, nice work. Before I read the post I thought to myself "I didn't know that was available, LOL"
  14. My office window faces north so it doesn't get any direct sunlight, but it gets a lot of light because I don't have any shade/curtains. The window has a 12" sill and I have had it full of trophies since I moved into my house three years ago. I just checked the back side of them and the faux gold parts are not faded at all which I would think that if they were in direct sunlight they would have. There are also little "Made in" stickers in the back side of some of them and the sticker material is your standard paper crap sticker. They have not faded in the least either. I'm sure they would have faded in direct sunlight. Probably to the point where they lost all color. My $.02
  15. Great tips, thanks a lot. The paint part is going to be a steep learning curve for me and I intend to take my time and do a great job even though this is my first attempt. The good thing is that I have tons of shop space and every tool imaginable at my disposal. I won't need to rush through it because I have to clear the kitchen table off to eat or anything, LOL. I was walking my dogs earlier and was wondering what the threshold is where you switch from spraying paint on to applying it with a brush. For example, the 19's fins are red and black, but they are fairly small. Maybe a square inch or so. I could tape them off and spray them, or I could go at it with a brush. How do you decide when to get the brushes out? And, what do you suggest for taping off? I was at the hobby store the other day and I picked up some Testors 1/2" masking tape which is supposed to be for cutting good lines. I am just curious what you guys use. I have a couple of rolls of pin stripe for cars that I use to tape off race bodywork for my motorcycles and it's pretty thin and easy to bend around corners, etc. But it's pretty thick (all relative of course) and I can see it leaving a ridge that would be too big for a models scale. Any thoughts? Thanks again
  16. Thanks for all the feedback. I took everyone’s advice and got a Hasegawa 1/72 YF-19 model kit to practice with. At $25 it's "disposable" I won't be buying an airbrush quite yet so I will be using spray cans for some of the bigger areas. For example I will be painting this one up with a Foker paint job. I was going to use a flat white as the base coat. Does that seem like a good attack plan or should I be searching out a satin white? Gloss? I know I won't have any issues "staying in the lines" my hands are highly trained from what I do for a living. I have no fears of the detail work. What concerns me the most is how to achieve the paint finishes that I am looking for. I plan on doing a lot of testing on plastic things so I can try out a finish before applying it to the model. But a head start would be nice. What would you use to paint the fighter base coat white? Thanks a lot! I will keep everyone posted about my progress. It could be entertaining for you guys
  17. Mine is a brick in fighter mode, but I have never transformed it.
  18. Great transaction with jeremy007. Great price, just as described, fast shipping, no muss, no fuss.
  19. Big props for DyNo for the three sets of DYRL hands! Smooth and fast....just the way I like it.
  20. Agreed, they are addictive little suckers. I got a Patlabor Zerosiki Type Zero #22 a while back and it sits here next to my monitor and I give it a new pose evey now and again. Then the VF-1J #34 got released so I ordered one of those and a Mazinkaiser #16 for my desk. I can't stop playing with them and where can you get all of these sweet little figures for about $20? It's not like I am going to get a $150 Mazinkaiser, but I will get a $20 all day long and I even get to play with it! So there I was at three in the morning checking my Paypal balance which jumped up because I sold a bunch of little motorcycle spares and stuff I had laying around. I said to my self...."Self, why not just get a whole bunch of them?" so I did. That entire stack still cost less than one SV-51 Yammie, LOL. I didn't need my arm twisted much. It would be sweet if they released a lot more Macross figures though. So everyone here needs to buy a couple of the existing ones and then tell everyone else they know to buy a couple so they see them as a big seller and make more models. It would be a perfect opertunity to get some "Bad guys" in the system and it would be great to be able to get mechs like the SV-51's, VF-OS-s, YF-19's, YF-21's.....Oh god....I'm getting excited! I'm going to start opening boxes now
  21. Whats going on there. Is that some sort of hostage situation?
  22. I just got a tracking number for the one coming out of HK, but I don't know where to plug it in to see what the status is. It looks like a USPS # but when I fire it in there it doesn't give me anything. Any one recognize the number? CP XXX 869 861 HK (the XXX is not in there, I replaced three of the numbers with them for some unknown security reason) I also have another one coming out of New York that will ship on Monday. I should have one of them by Thursday.....I hope. I want to see these suckers baaaaaaaaad. Not to mention the one coming out of HK has my second SV-51 with it. I'm going to have a grand ol battle when I get these all set up. I hope my neighbors don't see me. I will be hauled off wearing a funny coat that has the arms on backwards.
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