anime52k8

I honestly don't know how to calculate minimum focal distance so I couldn't tell you how much of an effect it will have, but I can say that it will be much more than the length of the tube. 1/2 to 1/4 the MFD you have now is much closer to what you'll actually get with a 25mm tube on a lens less than 24mm.

if you want shorter minimum focal distance, consider getting a close up lense or extension tubes (or this one). a close up lens screws onto the front of the lens (the one's linked will fit the lens you said you have), extension tubes fit between the lens and the camera. in both cases they decrease the minimum focal distance, but also make it so you lose infinite focus (i.e. now objects can be too far away to focus on). extension tubes work better for decreasing Minimum focal distance on wide angle lenses, close up lenses work best on longer telephoto lenses. generally I prefer close up lenses as a good ones have very little negative effect on the quality of your pictures and the performance of the camera/lens. extension tubes have the effect of increasing the effective f-stop by about 1 stop on a 12mm tube and about 2 on a 25mm, which can be bad on an already slow lens (like the one you have).

see, that's just an illusion created by the sweater. clearly she's got an amazing body hidden under that thing . also nerdy chicks are hot.

The nose cone and wing flaps on the first issue VF-1S Roy and VF-1A Hikaru have a tendency to fall off. these were fixed on every release after the VF-1A Max including every Hikaru and Roy reissue. Also some of the last releases have some fitment issues (the late releases exhibit noticeable amount of degradation to the molds used to make them. the landing gear doors on my stealth -1J tend to flop open, as does the hatch for the nose cone and the air brake. also the wing flaps fall off and the nose cone doesn't fit right unless you get the radar angled just perfectly.) Anything in the middle will be fine.

I thought that was Wanzerfan?

you have way too much free time man.

well in my circle of friends the failure rate has been exactly 0.00% so I guess it all evens out doesn't it

F*ck that, Heath ledger is the single worst joker ever. (BTW, everything about Dark Knight sucked except for Aaron Eckhart.)

Can anyone even say definitively what's causing the problem? I understand it's the connection between the GPU/CPU and the motherboard failing, but I've heard about a half dozen explanations as to why (solder itself failing, the CPU/GPU heating up and expanding, the Motherboard heating and expanding, the brackets that hold down the heat sinks expanding and bending the motherboard,etc.) :edit: in any event, my 360 soldiers on

I wouldn't call that dark though. that's just generally depressing, which is fairly normal for Disney movies in general (Bambie, Dumbo, lion king, etc...). Really though the only part that was surprisingly dark/scary was That was the only point where I thought to myself as I was watching the movie "wow, they really included that in a kids movie?" because honestly, that would have freaked me the f*ck out when I was however old I was when I saw the first movie.

thread bump. Just a general question about clear coats. what's the best way to do a flat clear coat over decals? I'm looking for something that will give a very flat finish and will hold up to light handling. Till now I've been using Testors dullcote but I'm finding that even once it's dry it's still a little delicate (heat and oil from your fingers enough to mess up the finish). I've also been experimenting with future mixed with Tamiya flat base, but so far it keeps turning out blotchy (i.e. the flat base isn't being distributed evenly throughout the future). I've been thinking about trying Tamiya TS-80 flat lacquer spray paint, but I'm worried that it will eat the decals underneath. (I also read an article online claiming that Tamiya clear lacquers will crack if you don't apply them within half an hour of laying down the underlying color layer. That honestly sounds like BS but I'd rather find out first hand. ) tl;dr: I'd like to know how to get a really flat finish using just future (if that's even possible), alternatively is Tamiya flat lacquer safe over decals.

sheath for the sword. also just noticed on the HD video that there's a second short-sword/dagger in there and he does use both.

wow, was that really necessary? I really don't see the point this considering half to 2/3rds of these images are readily available on other websites, and a good chunk of whats left are thumbnail images so small you can barely tell what they're depicting. almost all of the line art is availible on (if not directly lifted from) Mr. March's M3 and most of the book scans can be found on http://www.macrosshare.com/

The Reason Anasazi's decals were so good wasn't because of the paper he used, but because of the printer he had. Anasazi had an ALPS Printer. AlPS printers use special ribbon cartridges that are coated with colored resin. when the printer prints, the ribbon is pressed color side down against the paper and a heating element presses against the back of the ribbon, melting a dot of color onto the paper. This gives you several benefits over normal printers: First, ALPS printers could make crazy high resolution prints (up to 2400 DPI). Second, because of the way it printed, it could print spot colors in addition to standard process colors (this is why it's perfect for decals). Process colors are regular CMYK like on any color printer; Spot colors are extra layers of single color in adition to the CMYK, Colors like metallic's and white. so you are able to print white onto clear decal film, and you end up with decals that are more opaque, higher resolution, and resistant to smudging or bleeding. The bad thing (and part of the reason Anasazi doesn't make new decals) is that ALPS stopped making these printers years ago, and they are no longer supported in the US. As of 2008 they were still making inks for them but only for the Asian market. so to get one of these printers you have to find a used on that works (which will be VERY expensive when you do find one), you have to find ink for it (again, very expensive since it will probably have to come from Japan), and if it breaks your pretty much screwed.

there are a several companies (Testors, MicroMark, I've seen a brand online called Papilio etc.)that make printable water-slide decal paper. These are sheets of decal carrier film on paper backing that you can print onto using regular inkjet or Laser printers. there are quite a few things you need to be aware of though before using these thing though: first off, decal paper comes in ink jet and Laser types. Don't mix them up (i.e. try to run ink jet paper through a laser machine.) Laser printers work much better when it comes to making decals because the ink bonds to the carrier film. Ink jets deposit a layer of ink on top of the film (the film doesn't absorb liquid) which you have to seal with some sort of clear coat, otherwise they will smudge/run. Details tend to be blurry on Ink jet printed decals, the protective clear coat makes them thick and stiff, and they're generally more delicate so if you have access to a color laser printer, use that. regardless of whether you use ink jet or laser, you should be aware that because printers don't have white ink, any white on the image you print will be the color of the carrier film when you print it. So if you have clear carrier film, everything that's white in your becomes the color you painted your model. you can buy decal paper with white carrier film, but you have to cut out your decals VERY carefully to avoid having unwanted white around their edges. Now, for your case this shouldn't be a problem as the base color of the MMG is white already, so clear decal sheets should work fine. also, going back to cutting out your decals for a second. Because Decal Paper consists of a single continuous sheet of film, it's very important to cut as close to the edge of the decal as possible to avoid lots of excess carrier film that will be visible on the model.

"Departure from inward office of exchange" means that it has left the customs office that it went to after arriving in the country. Now it is heading to your local post office, but it may have to go through additional sorting facilities depending on how far away you are from where it entered the country. USPS delivers Saturdays as well, don't know about other countries.

This. I don't see what the big deal is if the pilot figure doesn't have boobs, the plane has an opaque canopy, you can't see the pilot anyways. I could kind of see this being a issue if it had a big clear canopy like a VF-1 or something but this one? and even on a toy where you can see the pilot, why does it need to have boobs? I'm all for big breast on toys but does it really matter on a figure that's less than an inch long and just a tiny accessory for another toy anyways?

I think a YF/VF-24/-25/-27 book is more likely. Considering they're all the same basic airframe, it makes sense.

I know, what's with all this letter writing? Don't these people have phones or email or twitter or... wait

It specifically said in the Terms and conditions of the sale that they reserve the right to use whatever "express" shipping method they choose regardless of what you request. they're using whatever method is cheaper.

... are you high right now?

fail. god damnit wave, make something cool that isn't ridiculously tiny for once!

the fact that people are retarded enough to not no the difference between over the top fantasy-action movies and historical fact is in no way the fault of the movie or the people who make them. personally I blame poor breading.