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Everything posted by anime52k8
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yeah, that's some super accurate, hyper detailed animation right there. (I know this is from ZZ, Z gundam had similarly cheap animation moments. I still love both shows.)
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I think it's more like... "What I think is the only thing that matters and any opinion to the contrary is not only wrong but a personal attack against me!"
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I think he's being quite specific actually.
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All Things Video Games Thread: II
anime52k8 replied to Wanzerfan's topic in Hall Of The Super Topics
So, red dead redemption... do you have to play Red Dead Revolver to get the game, or does it stand on it's own. I really have no interest in going back and playing revolver. I would like to pick up redemption. by the way, anyone play lost planet 2 yet? not sure if I wanna pick it up or not (I only played 1 level of the first game so...). summer's starting, time to get back to playing video games -
well that's because it's true. everything made after 1989 is inherently crap, it's an unequivocal fact. You don't even have to provide any justification to back up this conclusion because everyone KNOWS it's true just because it is. Everyone except people born in the 90's or later, but clearly they're all completely incompetent and incapable of having ANY form of rational judgment or informed opinion. (fun fact, the collective stupidity of everyone born after 1989 is why the worlds going to end in 2012, sorry about that.)
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http://anymoon.com/blog/2010/04/06/bandai-robot-spirits-super-vf-25f-alto-custom/ http://anymoon.com/blog/2010/03/23/bandai-robot-spirits-queadluun-rare/ the RD VF-25's and Q-rea are pretty representative of all RD's. they're similar size to MSiA but are CAD designed and made of ABS and not the crappy PVC the MSiA's where. so, more like the Yamato GN-u than the Revoltechs.
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I think it's just kind of annoying when people go on and on about how awesome the old 1/55's are and how they're so much better than new toys and how it would be great if they made new toys more like the old ones. When really, the old 1/55's blocky, have awkward proportions and are lacking in detail or any kind of useful articulation.
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nope, Toy-wave is just a bunch of extortionist.
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Question about Bandai decals: generally speaking, how well do the dry transfer decals on gunpla hold up. can they survive general handling, and will they ever start flaking off just because they're old? I'm thinking about clear-coating my Sinanju to protect all the little markings, although I'm not sure how worth it that's going to be. also what's a good clear coat to go over dry transfer decals? I'm looking for a mate to satin finish that will be fairly hard and not mess up the decals underneath. I've got Testors Dullcote and Future with Tamiya Flat base (I've yet to actually use it though.) will either of these work, or do I need to go out and get something else?
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No, they don't spend their days plotting nefarious schemes to oppress the true Robotech believers while maniacally stroking their goatees. These just came out at the end of January, So they're only 4 months late. http://www.hlj.com/product/KYD010179 of course that's 4 months after everyone figured out these are crap and nobody want's one.
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It's from the Fuzors. If you haven't seen it, don't watch it. Fuzor's was terrible, it made me almost stop liking Zoids all together. It's also why we didn't get Zoids Genesis in the US, which sucks because Genesis was good and that makes Fuzors suck even more.
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The Cheapo Tips n Tricks Guide to the VF-25
anime52k8 replied to Chronocidal's topic in The Workshop!
how exactly are you supposed to buff it, just rub it with a piece of cloth or something? (seriously I never use the buffing type because it always comes out looking like ass and the non-buffing looks just fine.) -
now this would be something worth watching.
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OH GOD WHY WOULD YOU DO THAT!?!? AHHHH!!!!
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See eugimon, he's had none of the problems you've brought up, clearly that means there's nothing wrong with ANYDX made EVER. Obviously his opinions and anecdotal experiences are the only valid ones in this thread.
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Nostalgia is for the weak. Embrace the future, buy a toy that isn't an ugly brick.
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but to be fair, The O is a hell of a lot more robot than an MS that costs 1/3 to 1/5 the price in MG form. the Sazabi is 2/3 the list price of The O and the Sazabi is smaller and 10 years older. 12600 yen is a lot of money but not an unreasonable price tag. I'm definitely getting this once it's out, and in the mean time I'll need to pick up a Zeta 2.0 and Hyaku shiki... but now I'm sad because I accidentally killed my MG Qubeley. Now that I think about it the lack of love for the Qubeley is disheartening, it didn't even get a f'ing clear parts reissue. damnit Bandai, Hyaku Shiki 2.0 and Qubeley 2.0; make it happen
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really? please make that argument then, because I can't see how that would be the case.
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my point is that saying John's kits are better while still being cheaper (which is as far as I can tell what Valkyrie addict is trying to say in the first part of this post >here<) isn't a valid criticism of Yamato's regult because they're too completely different situations.
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that's exactly my point. John does amazing work, but his stuff is smaller, made from less expensive materials and isn't engineered to be bot a model AND a toy. And clearly the people at Yamato are fans of Macross, why else would they devote such a large part of their business to making toys for it? But they're still a company, they have to be able to turn a profit form their products while paying for all the overhead a business of this nature has. John on the other hand is just one guy in his gurage making really nice models, he's not running a business and can get away with charging just enough to recoup the cost of making his kit's in the first place.
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black under metallic paints make them pop more, a white or light gray base tends to make metallic paints look washed out and lifeless. I'm not sure about who has good gold paint off hand, sorry. As for masking the parts you want to keep black, that's what I did on mine and it was a pain in the ass to properly mask some of the tight corners. when it was all done I felt like the extra coat of paint would have been worth it to make the masking job easier.
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paint. I applied about 3 of the foil stickers before deciding they looked like crap and busted out the gundam markers. I used liquid mask to cover the black parts, applied all the gold with a gundam marker then dipped each part in future to clear coat them. the gold turned out OK, but it's a little uneven in spots. If I were to do it again, I would take some flat black spray paint and spray all the parts, then spray them entirely gold, mask the parts I want to keep gold, spray another coat of black and then clear coat everything. gold spray paint over a black base would look more even and it would have been easier to mask the raised bits over the recessed.
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finally done.
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Even if John's Regult has more detail, it's still going to cost less because A) it's smaller, B) it's made of cheaper materials and C) because John is a fan who makes these things because he likes doing it and not a large company that has to pay for R&D/Marketing/manufacturing/etc. while still managing to turn a profit.
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Yeah, F*CK YOU YAMATO!!!! How dare you try to be profitable as a manufacturer of luxury goods during a time of severe global economic depression. After all the years of supporting you by whining on the internet about how much your products suck, This is the thanks we get? BULLSHIT. $400 for big, detailed, and articulated automotive grade resin kit is ridiculous. This thing should at least come pre-painted and assembled and made of 24k gold, and even then theirs no way it should go for more than 50 bucks. [/massive sarcasm and hyperbole]