HannouHeiki
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Everything posted by HannouHeiki
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I guess the question is, will they ship to the USA if return postage was provided.
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I lost two "spikes" from a Hasegawa SDF-1. I have a spare kit, so I can keep building, but I'd like to have complete parts on for the spare. What are the best steps to getting replacement parts? Would I be better have trying to recast these tiny things?
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Some guides recommend spraying a gloss coat before decal application. If I use Mr. Mark Setter and Softer, is a gloss coat still necessary? The spray paint being used is semi-gloss, although surface may not be perfect because of beginner's skill.
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That water based clay wash sounds like something I'll look into while I wait for more mr color spray cans to come in the mail. (I ran out of gray...expensive!) That wash sounds perfect....for a beginner like me it sounds like I won't have to sweat and be anxious while panel lining!
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All good info. It sounds like a lacquer based gloss coat over my lacquer mr color spray cans is ok? I would use some type of modeling product, like Testors or Mr Hobby. Then onto decals, enamel wash (Tamiya accent), enamel detailing, and possible water based GM20 Marker. After applying enamel wash, maybe some water based GM20 marker paneling, I will finish in a TopCoat....matte? Matte finish since it's a big ship?
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Your advice seems to be the path taken by the JP build diary I'm following. You're also confirming what I've understand fro googling modeling tips. So the final question is: what gloss coat to use that doesn't react with lacquer base paint or enamel wash? Would it be an acrylic coat? I will probably experiment with the water based GM20, but plan to use a Tamiya wash. The "noob" selling of the GM-20 is that you can apply it to any paint, before applying gloss. The build diary I followed avoided panel lining near decal areas to preserve the glossy surface.
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Thanks for the tip. I just wanted to be sure. I'm trying to decide whether to use a Tamiya enamel wash, or get a GM20 Gundam Marker using water based paint. The GM20 seems to be the "newbie" solution that I think I should try first. If it doesn't work well I can move up to the Tamiya wash. Does that sound like a decent plan? Some of the panel lines are super tiny...since this model is depicting a 1200m ship. Another thing I'm thinking about are decals. I'm wondering if I should gloss coat at that point, or could I straight decal on the semi-gloss Mr Color paint I'm using? (Thanks for the patience with the noob questions)
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I've started building this and started a diary titled "Inexperienced modeler builds SDF-1." I'll post the album eventually. I'm still in the painting stage (on the sprues), but I'm paused for a little bit because I had to order more of that expensive Mr. Color Light Gray spray paint. I'll be more inclined to get the more available Tamiya spray cans if I do other models in the future. I'm following a Japanese build diary, and one question I have is this: how is this guy accomplishing panel lining? I figured out that I can't use the Gundam marker I planned on using, because I'm using lacquer base paint. Can anyone infer what method this guy is using based on this pic? FYI, I'm used the same spray cans as him. He used straight up enamel paint for these detail areas. I get that he probably used a q-tip with enamel thinner to clean this up. For the panel lining, do you guys think he's using thinned out panel wash?
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Macross Δ (Delta) - announcement thread
HannouHeiki replied to renegadeleader1's topic in Movies and TV Series
You also have to take into account that the show aired once a week, people had dialup Internet, and Super VHS. Even getting about 4 episodes per VHS tape is different than listening to it only on broadcast. -
If I'm remembering correctly, Clash tries to take all the Japanese music out, basically leaving only "I Love You So" as the only lyric in the final battle. An unnecessary butchering.
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Thanks for the tip on the Mr. Surfacer. When researching I was noticing that a lot of ship modelers were using black primer to spray gray paint on. When I thought about what you said regarding white primer, I think I realized that the ship builders were using black primer as pre-shading for airburshing gray. The models were also huge in size, so there was probably less concern about crushing details. Of course, I'm planning on using Gundam Marker, and a technique like pre-shading is beyond my skill level (not to mention I don't have an airbrush). I'm going to get the finest particle size of Mr. Surfacer in white or gray and use that for the entire model. And thanks for the tip about inverting the mask! Since I'm "noob tier," that was genius advice to me! ^^ If I don't think of any other questions, hopefully my next post will be in the workshop forum!
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I'm wondering if he used the black Mr. Surfacer 1500. I'm thinking that would be the best choice, since it is the thinnest and least likely to dull out the details. I'm I okay in thinking that this will be okay to use as a primer over the entire model? And my last question before I'm ready to order the paints and get started. It may seem like common sense but I just wanted to ask and be sure. A tan color is supposed to be sprayed onto the ends of the main guns: As you can see, it's pretty tight in there. Before assembling the pieces, is using masking tape the best way to get the tan color in there? Should I use a brush? Is a spray can overkill for this little detail? I'm guessing mask and brush might be the best way, but I no build diary talked about this part and I just wanted to run it by someone. I don't want to get unneccessarily frustrated on the first part of construction!
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Chyll & Chaff - Thank you so much for the pointers. It's easier to take on a challenge with a plan, and the simple things you're telling me are actually going a long way to filling in the gaps from what I've looked up on my own. I spent some time "decoding" the google translate of his web page and figured out that the unreadable can was is 28 Steel/Dark Iron. Seeing him come up with a decent build while painting on the sprues makes me feel comfortable. I can't figure out what he used the White Surfacer 1000 for, but I'm guessing it was for the engines/thrusters. If I'm going to paint on the sprues like this guy, I don't see why I couldn't cut out the leg pieces and paint them gray along with the other gray pieces. Along with Gundam marker, he uses enamel for the larger recessed details, allowing them to dry a little and then cleaning up with solvent. Now I don't feel so intimidated. I think I'm comfortable enough to give this a go! Now to buy a bunch of paint... I'm probably going to have one last question that I'll bring up after I get some sleep.
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Even though the molding color is what tempted me to buy this model, it looks like spray painting seems to be the best bet. Unpainted gray turrets on a painted gray leg section couldn't have matched texture. I found a build diary that used spray paint with the parts still on the sprues. The diary used acrylic paint for the main colors and used enamel for detail paint. Is this guy using black primer? Would the paint sequence be: 1. Primer (or surfacer!?) 2. Acrylic spray paint (two coats?) 3. Then semi-gloss for decals? The blogger's post says: いつもの黒サーフェイサー、白サーフェイサーの部分は割愛します which google translates as Usual black surfacer, part of the white surfacer it will omitted.
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I took a look around the web and found a WIP build diary of a JP modeler thinking along the same lines as myself. Basically, he's also taking advantage of the molding coloring and using only a Gundam marker for paint! For a neophyte like me, this looks very passable and is getting me one step closer to considering building this thing. I bought two kits, but it's possible I'll chicken out and never start them. I'm trying to get over one part though. The leg sections are molded in that blue color, including sections that should be gray. I wonder if you could just paint the relevant leg sections gray and continue on, but I have no idea how much of a mismatch there would be between gray painted legs and the gray molding. If I can get over the gray leg color problem I'd like to consider assembly with the Gundam marker method. It's interesting to me that Hasegawa would go through the trouble of coloring the pieces (it seems like doing that is keeping those with my skill level in mind) but not color those leg sections gray.
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I guess what I'm trying to figure out, how much painting will need to be done outside of fine details, since many of the pieces appear to be pre-colored.
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Noob question: the parts look colored...is it possible to assemble and decal this model and have something decent, without having to use paint?
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I love Homeworld Remastered. Even if you can only get in just one ship (SDF-1...?) I'd be thrilled....
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Thanks Renato, lol. Before now the only picture I ever saw was a bunch of guys at a table (on the compendium)
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I'm confident an "overtech" parachute was stuffed somewhere in that seat, or that little backpack.
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Personally, I was really impressed with the live-action Space Battleship Yamato. Could a live-action Macross be distilled into a single film as well as that one? I never thought about DYRL adaptation...
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Real World Technical References of Macross Variable Aircraft
HannouHeiki replied to charger69's topic in Movies and TV Series
Off topic but a good place to ask: is the VF-11C different from the B in any way, besides the color? -
Guys guys....how can you forget the time Hikaru ejected from his battroid and Britai catches him in the air?
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Hmm....I'd probably be really slow at it, but you pointing out the furigana angle means that even the weakest of amateurs could have some hope at taking a crack at it. My Japanese is not functional at all, but maybe I'll play with it....one day....for personal enjoyment primarily. I was just thinking....perhaps part of the symptom is the difficulty of print media finding a place, just like in the USA.
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Could a plain translation (no scan) increase the likliehood of someone buying Macross The First? I suppose you could still have some jerk "stealing" the script and making a scanlation out of the script, and taking you back to the original problem... Anyway, Macross The First is super cheap, it's well worth the money just for the art. It's not like a $150 VF-1 or $350 VF-0 from Arcadia. I got all 5 MTF collected volumes together for like $35-$40.