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HannouHeiki

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Everything posted by HannouHeiki

  1. After checking out macross.jp today, it appears the censored scenes are going to be restored. I'm also given the impression that some form of grain removal has been applied.
  2. Where on Earth did you get the idea that BW just "quit" protecting their properties? It doesn't take that much research to see that is far, far from the truth.
  3. I don't think VLC can play commercial BDs unless it is a bootleg with no encryption.
  4. Wow, that's pretty strange for a rerelease. I wonder if it was simply a non-priority when recompiling the discs, or if it was a deliberate omission...
  5. No English subs, unfortunately. Although they could theoretically add subs and only officially distribute it in Japan, they don't seem too inclined to use the tactic for this particular title.
  6. They make good "liner notes." It's also great to get a catalogue of all the bits of background information spread throughout the Speaker Podcast, translations, etc.
  7. I've just hit a theory on what the "brush up" might be: since there is no game data on the disc, they can boost the bitrate.
  8. The VF-171 is changed so much from the VF-17 that I think of it as a totally new fighter. If you look at them side by side in scale, wouldn't you say there is quite a contrast? IMO, it's like comparing the VF-11 to the VF-1.
  9. The thing to keep in mind is that quote is from Tochiro explaining what he heard from a panel that he personally attended. It is putting words in his mouth. Tochiro is right here, and he is the only person who can explain what he meant by it. If you told someone something face to face, and they started to go off and explain what you what you really meant (instead of really listening to you or asking for clarification), you'd get pretty annoyed, right? And if it kept happening over and over, wouldn't you end up wanting to avoid talking to that person at all?
  10. Mommar, "That was nice, but _______" phrases don't go over too well. I guess I'm pointing out the obvious, but I thought to go ahead and let you know, because I'm assuming you usually mean well when telling others about the hard work they've done.
  11. This may be part of the reason why it's a Limited Edition. If it was a permanent offering, they would've probably invested more in the modifications. I'm sure this is something they would consider doing if the market (and market size$ justified it.
  12. This is a limited edition Japan only kit. You think they would've gone further if they had international licensing rights to sell a new mold around the world, instead of just for sale on a few islands in the Pacific? Limited edition essentially means that they know some peoold want this design, but they won't make tons of money over high unit sales. In fact, it is the same price as the regular version. Maybe the company with the international merchandising rights could market their own mold around the world, or commission one with Hasegawa or something...
  13. I think it's lacquer solvent on acrylic paint. The solvent dries off, really fast unless you add thinner, just leaving acrylic paint. Last night I tested paint sprayed from Tamiya cans , and they wiped off from alcohol pads too. If it has cured, I may need to leave it submerged for hours, and only a toothbrush will get it off by then. I have to keeping dipping the brush into alcohol to keep it going. I think it's all about how hard it bites the primer. The lacquer solvent may help the paint adhere to primer more strongly.
  14. Hah. meant OCD, but my phone autocorrected. Doing an SDF-1, but I definetely have a variant of OVD...
  15. The Mr. Color I'm using is mostly from rattle cans, but I do have C bottles for touch up. I have done lots of stripping with alcohol. I even use alcohol pads from the pharmacy to wipe off certain areas. It is not lacquer paint. It is acrylic in a lacquer type solvent. I promise you that if you dipped a part in 91% isopropyl that you can brush it off with a toothbrush. If you let it soak you could even wipe it off with a paper towel. I am a newbie...but I've been OVD and spent enough time fixing nitpicky mistakes to be able to confirm this.
  16. The engines do look closer together than their DYRL version.
  17. Mech, thanks for the tip on panel lining before the clear coats. The standard wisdom is usually the opposite, but the panel lines are tiny on the SDF-1. Much smaller than any airplane model. Chyll2 - Mr. Color is soluble in alcohol. I've stripped parts just by soaking them in 91% isopropyl alcohol. The paint doesn't lift off, but it gets soft and can be rubbed or brushed off. I have a fear of using any other topcoat other than the Gunze type... Mech - I'm getting the impression you're saying that I can use multiple clear types (enamel, acrylic, or water based) on cured acrylic paint, such as Tamiya or Testors, as long as I test first. Is that right?
  18. I'm an amateur modeler as well. The Hasegawa SDF-1 is the first model kit I've ever worked on. I've completed construction and painting of major pieces. All that's left is decal, panel lines, and detail paint. I ended up buying two more kits to replace lost/broken parts (I don't have a dedicated workspace, which is part of that problem) or to save myself the trouble of stripping and repainting parts. Since you've practiced with an airbrush (I'm using rattle cans), you'll probably have less trouble here also. My two main challenges were masking the tan areas on the booms and the feet. The engine parts were very confusing for me...I didn't realize they needed masking until I was building the parts. Another warning is that the forward spikes for the SDF-1 and the ARMDs are very fragile. Anyway, if you need tips from a newbie perspective, feel free to ask.
  19. I'm a newbie modeler, and I've gotten pretty far on my first kit (Hasegawa SDF-1). I have no airbrush. I am using Mr. Color rattle cans and thinned bottled paint for touch up. For my next build, I plan on doing the same kit again, except I'll be using Tamiya rattle cans for the main colors. My planned next steps are: Use Gunze Topcoat gloss, enamel panel line, enamel detail, then decal. Anyway, I was trying to stockup on some more Gunze Topcoat for my next model, but the store I've been using is out. What other topcoats are safe to use on top of Mr. Color and Tamiya rattle cans? I hear the gunze coats are water based, but the Testors and Tamiya products advertise themselves as using lacquer base.
  20. http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=111735283028&globalID=EBAY-US
  21. "The late Lt. Commander Tim Baker is presumably a UN Navy pilot..." The key word here is "presume." Extrapolating from the English here is no different than other extrapolations from other instances of perfectly legible English. Personally, I agree with translating using a western army system, with occasional navalizations on a case by case basis. However, my reasoning is based only on the goal of consistent translation between works, not on any presumption of how much thought the creators put into what the ranks are in English. I presume that they haven't thought that much about it, and in the unlikely event that there is an official English translation, I can't imagine Kawamori or anyone laying out a detailed vision of how ranks are to be translated. But, that's only my presumption, and perhaps better suited for discussion in a separate thread. People should feel free to drop questions in this thread without barging into a discussion.
  22. Didn't Shin take over LTCDR Baker's VF-0? I guess in M0 it's LTCDR Focker instead of Major Focker. It must be very confusing for the Japanese, since Major and LTCDR are both pronounced "shousa" in Japan.
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