NZEOD

We arent here to battle you. Just go try the sanding method. Its worked on the piece I messed up to test it on. It will work for you. It just takes time. TO get to the inner surface use a polishing compound and a box of q-tips or what ever they call them in your end of the planet. Just change them out BEFORE the pad wears down to the plastic stick or you'll end up gouging the canopy. You may go through more than 25 of them doing this. Wet them and apply the polish and start rubbing. As you get further along and have removed most of the haze, start reducing how hard you are pushing against the qtips. Its a bit like how we spit polish our parade boots to a mirror shine. TAKES FOREVER! Even with the illegal use of a flame. After that dip it in the Floor Clear. You can test the progress of the polishing by dipping the canopy in water and seeing how clear it looks when you take it out. Thats basically how it will look after the Clear is applied.

Looks real good Some inspiration for you...

any news?

Make a quick plug mold of the canopies so you can vac form a replacement if needed. Sculpting clay with a stick to hold it by, spray some non stick baking spray in the canopy insides, push in the clay, remove, set... done. Then if you DO screw it you just clamp some sheet between some picture frames, toss it in the over for 20secs on grill to soften it to sagging point then ram your clay plug through it using the stick. Let cool then trim. TO do it even better, make a quick box with a tube to hook up a vacuum cleaner. cut out the top plate of the box, fit in some mesh or perforated sheet. run some foam or rubber seal round the edge the same size and shape as the picture frames holding the clear film. Fit the clay plug into the centre of the mesh frame, hook up and turn on the vac cleaner, drop the sagged heated film frame down hard and fast over the clay plug until the frame seals to the foam box seal... you'll see the film suck down into the mesh... let it cool... trim... Poor mans Clear plastic.... coke bottles...

Yeah the G is more refined in the nose, less blade antenna, the A has a nose mounted targetter. EDIT... nope... I got that totally wrong! Thats the 4E not 4A

Yeah it does.... Who ever made this GIF... genius! We need more like it!... Project Sketchley?

Lots of info in that link is way off though. Even the hardpoints are wrong and no mention is made of the 12 built in missiles carried all over the body and engine nacelles.

Try having a wife and a Mistress!... actually... don't. Even with both in agreement and harmony is chaos.

Yes it can. Different pinouts though but thats just one more line out.

The shot of the two 4Gs from behind, engines lit? Love that one! Wow... dual wield Gun pods under the wings! And missiles WAY beyond the 12 already built into the body! And the AEW version.... and the ARMD-8 Unit with the big 02!!!!

Ahhhh... where did you see that??

Correct! As long as you connect the power supply to the appropriate 2 pinouts and NOT via the USB port. The USB port is 5V only. and it can run down to 3.3.V so it can run off 3.7V Lipo if needed. Its a brilliant little board.

6 weeks is the ETA for the Cats Eye to be stocked again at Starship Modellers!! YUS!!!!!! Start saving ladies, and concocting plans to hide it away from the Wife.

Sent David, aka Blappy, a message last night about when he'd be making any more. Will pass on the response. He has his own website store too. http://www.blapmodels.com/

Ok... I took a piece of Clear styrene, chemically burnt it... Acetone is great for ruining good canopies and spent the morning sanding it all back. So far so good, its working. The catch is though... you will start to lose the definition between the canopy frame and the area that should remain clear. But at 1/72 a crisp paintline for the frame can disguise that.

Thats why I said I had to email the bigger ones which were 2Mb each. Which you got. Claiming a gy has blocked you and not responded with answers when he already gave answers in plenty of detail it being unappreciative. Mentioning you spent money on buying stuff to fix the problem and so he should provide you with more answers or its his fault you wasted money... is ungrateful. YOu complained about low qual scans and I said thats all photobucket would allow. To get the higher detail versions youd need to get them emialed. I did that. YOu complained. Maybe you'd rather no one bothered to respond at all? To fix the canopy, you need to sit down and start sanding it. First with a 1200 grit wet and dry sanded wet, very wet, then down to finer grades until you get to polishing pastes, as stated already. It will take hours... a few nights in front of the TV with a towel and a bowl of water. There is no quick fix. WHEN you have actually tried that, not thought about it, but given it a go, let us know how you got on. It WILL work, just not as quickly as you wreaked it in the first place.

Nice... although it would have been better being named the RNZS Te Kaha...

Really?? That makes the SV-51 the same size if not slightly bigger! Damn the ES-11D is TINY

Having hardware issues with my PC as I'm running all SSDs and am out of Storage space. Heading into town now to get another SSD or 3 to fit into the beast. In the meantime I've created a dropbox with the first set of page scans to try yourself with setting up a trinket to flash an LED. I'll add more relevant detail after i get back with the SSDs... and they work in the PC... and I stop wanting to shoot the PC... Dropbox link here. https://www.dropbox.com/s/fxkf5259b5j5rb8/simon%20scan%20of%20book.pdf?dl=0 Try the first 3 pages were they get you to set up a test to get the Trinkets ONBOARD LED blinking.

The books very noob friendly Are you using a 3.3v Trinket, 5V one or the Trinket Pro? I'll post up how to set up a single and dual Neopixel with wiring and codes to try to make them show different colours and flashings etc in a couple of hours. That will give you something to play with over the weekend.

Tread very carefully here... His answer to your question HAS been helpful AND detailed. You come across as rather demanding and less than appreciative of any help offered no matter what it is. You did the same with me wanting better scans than what I could provide of decals for your screw ups on your Wave Destroid. I'd guess he has less patience for you than I do after reading the above demands for answers. The floor polish is an acrylic based clear coat. So go ask at a flooring place in Europe for just that, an Acrylic based floor clear coat/polish. THAT product will be the same as Future (USA)/Krystal Klear (Aus/NZ)/Pledge (UK) and what ever they call it in Asia Your canopy is wreaked as it is right now. Take the advise and start sanding it. Or dont. There is little more this community can do to help you with this mistake beyond all the advise you already have recieved.

Can you measure it for me sometime? Wingtip to wingtip Nose to Tail Belly to the radome or tail, which ever is tallest. Curious as to what sized case it would need

that's 2 of us

yep, that's the first project in the book, Its super easy to follow and quick.

All the shops should do the figure painting lessons and there is a TON of resources online for GW painting. I can dig up some relevant ones for you if you like. I used to paint competitively back in my pre Army University days.