NZEOD

Fibres easy, its sourcing the right items thats a pain. I HATE the glass fibres they snap at the slightest nick and are quite happy impaling themselves into your fingers. Yeah thats the gnd I use as well. You can use either or both gnd points

hahaha yep! I lost a bet in Suai and when I rotated back to Darwin for a week one of the punishments was to be dropped off at 5/7s front gate, in civies, to ask the Duty staff if this was the home of the Man Loving Unit as I required a Prostate exam and heard they were experts... I'm a pretty good runner it turns out The things we do when we are young and dumb.

What you do is get a prototyping breadboard ($10 or so) and some male to male jumper leads and you build the system on the board to test it all. That way you can do it next to your PC so making programming changes can be done there and then. Once you have the programming sorted and wiring layout finalized you then remove it from the breadboard and permanently soldier all the wires in. The 8Sticks are a great way to practice and test layouts and learn to program each LED. Just solder a set of 90deg pins to the end of it so it stands up in the board like a dragway Xmas tree light set. Neat and tidy and can be tossed in the toolbox when the wife wants the bench space back without having any wires to tangle.

Just scored another Retppu 1/72 VF-4! Bonus!!

No no no... thats Sgt not Sir, Not ever EVER... I work for a living Yeah, just read something similar, Wing reaction engines, Body mounted Rolls Royces BUT... the fanes are still all mounted in the wing engines. SO fail one, score one for a match score of zero

Look for Kynar Wire. Its used in windings, Its actually stronger and easier to use than the enamel Copper and comes in simlar gauges all the way down to 0.25mm! The size depends on the total current draw of your circuit and its wire length. Got any more details on the types and numbers of lighting you want to use? When soldering with Kynar, you want it to be hot and clean and quick. The heat from the iron burns away the insulation so you don't want that traveling too far up the wire. One trick that works is to mount the iron in a clamp and offer up the parts and solder to it, instead of holding the iron. Works for me anyways. I clamp it to a card box with all my tools I'll need in the box to stop it flipping over. Makes for more a production line setup for doing masses of LEDs or repetitive tasks and avoids placing the iron on a model part. my 23 display cases used 4 LEDS each wired in series with a 2 prong plug and 5 wires... all having to be done the same length.. again and again and again. This sped it up alot and was done on the Kitchen bench while watching Macross Delta, Top Gun...again and Black Sails I've ordered the Adafruit Trinket guide for dummies book so anything I find in their thats relevant I can scan and pass on here its that skating within the rules.

FN L7 GMPG And dont be hassling the Kiwis the ND, 5/7 had a PC crew sent home from BATT1 for doing things together they shouldnt... We sent our 113s to Timor to die so we could justify getting the NZLAVs! Such a waste.

and yet.... Xander was supposed to have been killed off

Notice the way the parts are laid out... especially the fans front and rear of the wing engines...

...yep.... intake fans to the front black jet exhaust to the rear.... It has atmospheric turbofans when in planets and jets when its a vacuum, same as the Valks have their intake fans covered when in space and run on reaction jets. Think the ones on the wings are the Turbofans and the ones on the fuselage the space rocket motors

Hahaha!! I was there in 1999 NZBATT1 as part of the INTERFET and later UNTAET Missions! That's when we were getting the executive ride into country in the Suai Sally Sea King, as the grunts were assaulting the beach in landing craft from the HMAS Tobruk. Wow... small world! Are you doing a 5/7 RAR 113?

There is a Games Workshop/Citadel version too... liquid greenstuff. http://fromthewarp.blogspot.co.nz/2012/01/quick-look-at-liquid-greenstuff.html http://piratevikingpainting.blogspot.co.nz/2011/10/liquid-green-stuff-review.html

Working on it. Had the privilege of going into labour to deliver (its still not out!) a 4mm kidney stone so I've had the day off at home after spending yesterday in A&E on Morphine and have been busy soldering up my latest loot. An Adafruit Trinket Pro, FX Sound board and 20W Amp for the Street Shootout scene. Just working on sourcing all the sound effects now. The Hall display already lights up on case at a time off a PIR. Its proven to be quite useful for tracking when the little ninja 20month old sneaks out of his bedroom at night!

In the ships Hull is where you hide the Neopixel. Use a strip so you have eight addressable Neos then run high quality fibres with lens ends. The Neos and the Trinket board can all run on a tiny lipo or hide a two wire power cable into it though the stand. You could even add motion activation as I'm using on mine to turn on the effects when someone passes near. Add a drop of clear resin thats semi set and suspend upside down... it hardens to form a lens. Seat your Fibre to this with more resin. Use Solid core sheathed Fibres which start at .05mm dia and go to about 14mm dia.

No I mean actual 1/72 scale belted up straps

Damn thats outstanding!

Do they make straps that can be buckled up over the pilot?

Work in progress so the cockpits arent drawn yet and movement is still being worked on from listening to the vid discussion. I like that they want the hand to be able to pick up a person and that person to be able to fire his or her weapon with in the hand! They are mapping the shoulders as a "roadway" so the pilots can exit the seat in Battroid mode and walk around on top. Great sniper spot. The little details only a Macross fan would get are there though... like the head cannon moving down out of the way as the nose wheel folds away in the landing gear bay. Swinging the Gunpod from storage to deployed in hand will be interesting though. Its the one thing thats always bugged me with Valks. They effectively through the gun in the air and catch it. So its main armament is, for a few seconds, not attached to the vehicle... I really should be on the other arm and the gun hand should reach across to grab it.

Stumbled across this... WOW!

Soldering fibres? If you mean the enameled wire, the heat of the soldering iron burns off the enamel as its applied. On my own I rub the wire ends on the soldering iron heat jacket to burn it off before soldering. If you want different colour at different optic fibre and the SAME time you will need different LED sources. My controllers are outside the models, hidden in the diorama base and the models connect to them through, for the Destroids and Battroids, their feet where I have a socket they click into, and for the Fighters on the Carrier Deck through a single fibre strand running down each landing gear leg. The Launch Arm ones will connect though the centre of the back pack into the piece between the arm claws.

NVM, found the fault. Photobucket is dumbing down the images. When I view the original on my screen I can read clearly the writing in the warning labels but after uploading to Photobucket it blurs it out. PM me your email I I'll send the original files to you.

This is the absolute best I can get out of the work scanner I'm afraid

300dpi is the best the work machine will do. I guess you'll have to either NOT worry about the decals or go buy another kit then.

RESOURCES POST - Where to find stuff and what to use for stuff - will be updated as we all find stuff My current choice of board to control everything is the Adafruit Trinket 5V for small LED only projects and the Trinket Pro for LED and multiple servo projects. Only reason being, I'm cheap and so is this board. Its also pretty simple to setup, program and power. The Trinket 5V https://www.adafruit.com/product/1501 Trinket Pro https://www.adafruit.com/products/2000 A good read to help you along the way is... https://www.adafruit.com/products/2289 A good source of gear... just about ANYTHING in fact! http://www.robotshop.com/en/

After talking to a couple of other members about this, I've decided to make a thread for dumping all our ideas and techniques for making our models move, light up and make sounds. Use this thread for anyone with ideas and links to gear, projects and programming. My background is as an Army Ammunition Technician and IEDD Operator. I worked on and operated the REMOTEC Andros among other duties. So messing with gadgets and things I shouldnt are second nature. I also Fly Gliders and compete in FMX on a Husqvarna CR125, Street Stunt on a Triumph 675, Motox on a Husqvarna TC250 and MTB, Snowboarding, Kite surfing and anything likely to result in pain and dismemberment. As such I have messed around alot with cameras and remotes and ways of mounting them, making them move and track a target etc. So this leads me to here and wanting to making my destroids move and track a person around a room with their gun barrels. I have a Tomahawk with light up beam cannons and spot light and a servo in the body to swing it round. The Defenders have the same with both spotlights lighting up and the body swinging. They also have a rotating radar and arms that raise. One is a Defender XV and have PE Brass 6 barrel cannons with also spin at 1000rpm. The Phalanx has a servo in the body and one in each arm and 3 LEDs in the spotlight tower. The Valks in fighter mode have LEDs in the engines and beam cannons and one is getting a backpack lit up mid explosion (current project). All this is powered and controlled off Adafruits Trinket 5V and Trinket Pro Adruino boards and cheap $16 Micro servos, Neopixel LEDs and , thanks to MECHTECH, some insanely tiny gearbox motors for the gatling guns! The diameter of a pencil. Over the next few weeks I'll load up links, examples and programs (called sketches) for making things move and light up yourselves. It may seem daunting but honestly, once you get started, its not too hard. My 14yr old daughter learns this stuff in school now. I'm no expert, I just have a passion of fiddling and making things do the unexpected. Likely some of you here will be able to take my limited knowledge and ideas and improve on them 10 fold. Thats the hope atleast.