derex3592 Posted March 21 Share Posted March 21 Can't wait to see this finished up!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tekering Posted March 22 Share Posted March 22 4 hours ago, derex3592 said: Can't wait to see this finished up!!! Well, I've only finished one part so far... I'm adding the usual weathering and rust I'd expect to see on Quamzin's mecha. Delicate chipping has been strategically applied to areas most likely to have suffered impacts. However, I need some advice from @captain america before I go any further: I realize these instructions are at least 15 years old now, and the chemical composition of the polymer resin used nowadays may have changed (assuming even the same brand was used for this run)... Since I've managed to successfully assemble the model as it is (and it seems stable and secure), is it still imperative that I post-cure the polymer parts before painting? Could omitting this crucial step result in the failure of load-bearing parts in the future? Also, judging by the color and texture of the pieces I received, I'm not sure all the parts listed here were cast in polymer resin this time... 🤔 As I've cut, sanded, and primed parts for test–fitting and assembly, I've sometimes used a hair dryer to heat and reshape parts to ensure a proper fit; this is a typical part of the process for building garage kits, of course. But if a few moments under a hair dryer is enough to soften the resin, won't FOUR HOURS in an oven cause irreparable damage? 🤕 Most of us here have probably never "baked" resin parts before, and might be a little reticent to do so with such an expensive kit. 😬 Additionally, this may only apply to me in Japan, but I've never seen wax paper here. Would aluminium foil ensure even distribution of heat in the same manner? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sketchley Posted March 22 Share Posted March 22 (edited) 28 minutes ago, tekering said: Additionally, this may only apply to me in Japan, but I've never seen wax paper here. Would aluminium foil ensure even distribution of heat in the same manner? The closest I've seen here* is "cooking paper", which is apparently 'baking paper' or 'parchment paper' overseas. Would that work better? E.g.: https://www.yodobashi.com/product/100000001001678587/?gad1=&gad2=x&gad3=&gad4=&gad5=17180694156410001960&gad6=&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIzoSO-uSGhQMVA9ZMAh1u5QTmEAQYAiABEgJGO_D_BwE&xfr=pla * also live in Japan Edited March 22 by sketchley Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big s Posted March 22 Share Posted March 22 27 minutes ago, tekering said: Well, I've only finished one part so far... I'm adding the usual weathering and rust I'd expect to see on Quamzin's mecha. Delicate chipping has been strategically applied to areas most likely to have suffered impacts. However, I need some advice from @captain america before I go any further: I realize these instructions are at least 15 years old now, and the chemical composition of the polymer resin used nowadays may have changed (assuming even the same brand was used for this run)... Since I've managed to successfully assemble the model as it is (and it seems stable and secure), is it still imperative that I post-cure the polymer parts before painting? Could omitting this crucial step result in the failure of load-bearing parts in the future? Also, judging by the color and texture of the pieces I received, I'm not sure all the parts listed here were cast in polymer resin this time... 🤔 As I've cut, sanded, and primed parts for test–fitting and assembly, I've sometimes used a hair dryer to heat and reshape parts to ensure a proper fit; this is a typical part of the process for building garage kits, of course. But if a few moments under a hair dryer is enough to soften the resin, won't FOUR HOURS in an oven cause irreparable damage? 🤕 Most of us here have probably never "baked" resin parts before, and might be a little reticent to do so with such an expensive kit. 😬 Additionally, this may only apply to me in Japan, but I've never seen wax paper here. Would aluminium foil ensure even distribution of heat in the same manner? I think the wax paper is to prevent sticking. You may just be able to coat the foil with some dish soap, but I’m no expert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bolt Posted March 22 Share Posted March 22 Beautiful job on the chipping and wear ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captain america Posted March 22 Author Share Posted March 22 11 hours ago, tekering said: However, I need some advice from @captain america before I go any further: I realize these instructions are at least 15 years old now, and the chemical composition of the polymer resin used nowadays may have changed (assuming even the same brand was used for this run)... Since I've managed to successfully assemble the model as it is (and it seems stable and secure), is it still imperative that I post-cure the polymer parts before painting? Could omitting this crucial step result in the failure of load-bearing parts in the future? Based on my own findings, the newer batches of TASK 3 high strength polymer seems to stabilize more quickly than it did when I originally issued the Graug. I don't think post-curing is necessary at this rate, and especially if you don't have an oven, I think it would be wiser to omit that step rather than do something which could cause damage. You are also correct in your assessment that fewer parts are cast in polymer for this re-issue. An extra 12 years of experience with various resins helps! 11 hours ago, tekering said: As I've cut, sanded, and primed parts for test–fitting and assembly, I've sometimes used a hair dryer to heat and reshape parts to ensure a proper fit; this is a typical part of the process for building garage kits, of course. But if a few moments under a hair dryer is enough to soften the resin, won't FOUR HOURS in an oven cause irreparable damage? 🤕. No. TASK 3 and Smooth-Cast310 have different formulations. Some things you can do with one, but not the other, and vice-versa. 11 hours ago, tekering said: Most of us here have probably never "baked" resin parts before, and might be a little reticent to do so with such an expensive kit. 😬 Additionally, this may only apply to me in Japan, but I've never seen wax paper here. Would aluminium foil ensure even distribution of heat in the same manner? Parchment paper will do the job, or a silicone cooking mat. Basically a non-conductive buffer which prevents the extreme temperature spike caused by direct metal-to-resin contact. My comments in blue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tekering Posted March 23 Share Posted March 23 Thanks for the confirmation, Cap'n. That's exactly what I needed to hear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tekering Posted March 29 Share Posted March 29 On 3/22/2024 at 2:02 PM, Bolt said: Beautiful job on the chipping and wear ! Thanks! It's always difficult to judge how much is appropriate for any given location. Like, I've applied the heaviest weathering to the feet: I'm very pleased with the results, but... is it too much, maybe? 🤔 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bolt Posted March 29 Share Posted March 29 Looks great! Definitely not too much Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derex3592 Posted March 29 Share Posted March 29 Definitely not. Zent mecha would be really beaten up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thom Posted March 29 Share Posted March 29 Definitely not! If anything, I might suggest doing a little more. From what I recall, Zentradi mechs are very old or/either very well used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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