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Their SOP is pretty much this:

Anything that doesn't require a signature- If the area is consider safe for a drop, they will ring the bell, drop the package and go to their next delivery. They do not need to wait for you since there's no signature required. If the area is not safe for a drop, they will write up a slip, in the 1 minute time frame from the time they ring the bell or knock, then slap the missed you note, and go to their next delivery.

Anything that requires a signature- They will ring the bell/knock, will start writing up the miss you slip, in the 1 minute time frame from the time they ring the bell or knock, depending on if they notice you was coming down, or you gave them a sign that you are coming down they will then wait for you or bring it up to you as long as you buzz them in to your building. If not, once the 1 minute is up,they will slap the missed you note, and go to their next delivery.

Depending on the area, they are suppose to deliver at a rate higher than 12 stops per hour.

The delivery guy that delivers to your area are normally the same guy/gal. USPS/FEDEX/UPS/ONTRACK, ETC.

So if you can talk to them and request them to drop it at a certain drop point or leave you a notice , they will normally do it. as long as it don't slow them down.

since you normally leave from your garage door, you can ask if they can leave you a note on the garage door, whenever they drop off a package at your front door.

I was able to ask my USPS guy to give me a call or txt whenever theirs a package for me.. ^_^

Where they dropped it was fine. My whole point was that they normally ring the doorbell, but they didn't and that the tracking which I checked daily was never updated so it never showed it was out for delivery or even delivered so I didn't even know to check. I never expected them to stand and wait for me to come to the door or anything. If they couldn't be bothered to ring the doorbell, they probably wouldn't call me or leave a note either. But this whole thing was out of the ordinary in terms of my experiences with the USPS, so whatever. They have always rang the doorbell before so I'll just chalk it up to an off day.

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Finally got mine today. I have to say i was a little disappointed in the way the factory packed the figure in the package. Although there was no damage it was all mis-transormed and not locked into place in fighter mode. When i get a new valk a like tio leave it in fighter mode and whoosh it around a bit before i attempted transforming it. Its also nice to have a good look at how it should look in the correct transformed mode. Also one of the super pack's rear noozle is extremly loose and won't stay in position. Anyone know a good way to stiffen it up?

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Finally got mine today. I have to say i was a little disappointed in the way the factory packed the figure in the package. Although there was no damage it was all mis-transormed and not locked into place in fighter mode. When i get a new valk a like tio leave it in fighter mode and whoosh it around a bit before i attempted transforming it. Its also nice to have a good look at how it should look in the correct transformed mode. Also one of the super pack's rear noozle is extremly loose and won't stay in position. Anyone know a good way to stiffen it up?

I've been using super glue pretty liberally on this thing to tighten up the joints. You could try rolling the nozzle down to one side, putting a drop of super glue on the ball portion and rolling and twisting the nozzle around until the glue dries.

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Guest davidwhangchoi

I've been using super glue pretty liberally on this thing to tighten up the joints. You could try rolling the nozzle down to one side, putting a drop of super glue on the ball portion and rolling and twisting the nozzle around until the glue dries.

i'm getting mine this week, i'm going to try that if it's floppy.

excited to see the photos you're going to take of this thing... are you going to weather it?

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i'm getting mine this week, i'm going to try that if it's floppy.

excited to see the photos you're going to take of this thing... are you going to weather it?

Yeah, I will be doing my usual weathering and clear coating on this. I just need to find the time. First, I'm trying to color match the darker maroon stripes to paint the stripe they missed on the hip guns. I'm having a hard time getting it right and I don't remember the colors I used doing it the first time around.

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Yeah, I will be doing my usual weathering and clear coating on this. I just need to find the time. First, I'm trying to color match the darker maroon stripes to paint the stripe they missed on the hip guns. I'm having a hard time getting it right and I don't remember the colors I used doing it the first time around.

Looking forward to seeing your work! What stripes are missing? I'm not that familiar with this bird, mine still on its way (registered SAL) but would like to know what I need to do when it gets here.

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Looking forward to seeing your work! What stripes are missing? I'm not that familiar with this bird, mine still on its way (registered SAL) but would like to know what I need to do when it gets here.

The dark maroon stripe that follows along the LERX and to the chest area just ends abruptly there whereas it should continue and taper down on the hip guns.

In addition, they neglected to paint some of the white panel details, which I have easily remedied on mine since the panel grooves already exist.

There's also an additional green sensor/lens on the nose that they didn't color. The front most ones they have used clear green colored plastic, but they jsut left an empty void where there should be a second one following it. I've highlighted the areas I'm talking about.

post-10222-0-54822700-1378247615_thumb.jpg

I was just going to do a swap of the hip guns with one of my existing VF-27s but I found that they had remolded/modified the hip guns and the ball it connects to as the sockets on the hip guns of the original are too big for the ball on the new one to connect to. I don't know why they felt the need to redo this area. This is likely the reason why the hip guns keep falling off on the new one. Either the socket wasn't designed as well or the smaller surface area affords less grip.

Edited by MacrossJunkie
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Just got my copy from HS today. Kind of surprised I received it already, just over one week, since I chose SAL. Unlike Nin Nin, Hobby Search did an excellent boxing job, on par with AE, Amiami and HLJ... HS really shines with their deep discounted prices, non inflated shipping rates -- at least as far as SAL is concerned, and great packing. I'll definitely go with them again if at all possible.

As for my impression, admittedly just a quick once over and swap of the default hands with the articulated ones, of the VF-27 itself, I'm not disappointed, but neither am I awed by it. This toy is most certainly an upgraded version of the old toy, but it's no renewal... not even close.

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Amiami restock it last night. I woke up around 4:00am california time. I decided to check the website around 4:20am and found out that they are selling it and waited like 15 minutes and it is still available after I did a quick comparison of the old version, I purchased one for 18k yen .... lucky :)

Edited by Darkshader
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The dark maroon stripe that follows along the LERX and to the chest area just ends abruptly there whereas it should continue and taper down on the hip guns.

In addition, they neglected to paint some of the white panel details, which I have easily remedied on mine since the panel grooves already exist.

There's also an additional green sensor/lens on the nose that they didn't color. The front most ones they have used clear green colored plastic, but they jsut left an empty void where there should be a second one following it. I've highlighted the areas I'm talking about.

attachicon.gifvf-27_fighter_highlight.jpg

I was just going to do a swap of the hip guns with one of my existing VF-27s but I found that they had remolded/modified the hip guns and the ball it connects to as the sockets on the hip guns of the original are too big for the ball on the new one to connect to. I don't know why they felt the need to redo this area. This is likely the reason why the hip guns keep falling off on the new one. Either the socket wasn't designed as well or the smaller surface area affords less grip.

Ah, thanks so much. Thanks for highlighting it. I gotta look at the Bandai 1/72 model for the details... its all that it's good for now! I wish I could print white for the decals.

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I personally thought the VF-171CF was easier and much cheaper (much less than MSRP). You could find this one at or just above MSRP, but not very much below and it was already a bit more expensive to begin with. It wasn't top of my must have list, but someone here nicely pointed one out at 18,000Y which was reasonable - so I caved.

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Guest davidwhangchoi

I personally thought the VF-171CF was easier and much cheaper (much less than MSRP). You could find this one at or just above MSRP, but not very much below and it was already a bit more expensive to begin with. It wasn't top of my must have list, but someone here nicely pointed one out at 18,000Y which was reasonable - so I caved.

congrats on finally getting one!!! you going to weather yours? i like yours and Lolicon's weathering. He's trying to help me and giving me pointers that you shared w/ him

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Thanks! I just did my RVF-25 & the VF-171CF - in the middle of the vf-25F... kind of want to get a few going at once so I don't keep mixing clear-coats and having leftover as waste. Hopefully I'll get the VF-27 soon and finish that off along with the VF-25F and will post some shots. Still experimenting with a durable clear-coat, I'm not liking the fragility of the ModelMaster Acyl semi-gloss that I've been using on my models, so I'll try experimenting with MacrossJunkie's Future/Tamiya flat base mix and see how that goes.

I'd love to see Lolicon's weathering job!

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Guest davidwhangchoi

Thanks! I just did my RVF-25 & the VF-171CF - in the middle of the vf-25F... kind of want to get a few going at once so I don't keep mixing clear-coats and having leftover as waste. Hopefully I'll get the VF-27 soon and finish that off along with the VF-25F and will post some shots. Still experimenting with a durable clear-coat, I'm not liking the fragility of the ModelMaster Acyl semi-gloss that I've been using on my models, so I'll try experimenting with MacrossJunkie's Future/Tamiya flat base mix and see how that goes.

I'd love to see Lolicon's weathering job!

i pm'd what he sent me... (it's prob your tips or his) i'm not sure if he cancelled or kept his 27 let me check. he's getting me into hot toys now:)

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Guest davidwhangchoi

i posted comparison pics to the yamato box on the 30th thread

First look at our Arcadia Packaging, how deep is the box, is it a thinner profile now or is it still the same size as the yamato boxes?

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I have read that some members tape a portion of the nose cone of the VF-27 to protect the paint from accidentally getting scratched during transformation into battroid mode. I am afraid that I'll nick the paint, so would drafters tape be ok for this, since its a low tack and will hopefully not peel the paint off when removing it?

Edited by Saburo
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I have read that some members tape a portion of the nose cone of the VF-27 to protect the paint from accidentally getting scratched during transformation into battroid mode. I am afraid that I'll nick the paint, so would drafters tape be ok for this, since its a low tack and will hopefully not peel the paint off when removing it?

I use tamiya masking tape

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Here' a tip for your guys who are afraid of scratching the paint on the nosecone during transformation but still don't feel like to using tape on your valk : the head is on a hinged panel that can flip up if you push it from underneath. The panel and head unit can be flipped back so that the nosecone will not touch the plate that support the head unit during transformation.

I've been playing with mine and transforming it quite a few times and no scratch reported yet. Overall it does have some loose joints (shoulders and back of the feet joints on mine), although nothing dramatically worse than any of my other renewals. So far it's my favorite Bandai renewal release to date, even not counting the super parts. The VF-27 feels much more solid in battroid than the other renewals in the torso hip section, everything locks tightly and feels right whereas with the VF-25s I always wonder if I should go 1 or 2 clicks for the hips piece neither feeling totally right.

Edited by Frogze
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Here' a tip for your guys who are afraid of scratching the paint on the nosecone during transformation but still don't feel like to using tape on your valk : the head is on a hinged panel that can flip up if you push it from underneath. The panel and head unit can be flipped back so that the nosecone will not touch the plate that support the head unit during transformation.

I've been playing with mine and transforming it quite a few times and no scratch reported yet. Overall it does have some loose joints (shoulders and back of the feet joints on mine), although nothing dramatically worse than any of my other renewals. So far it's my favorite Bandai renewal release to date, even not counting the super parts. The VF-27 feels much more solid in battroid than the other renewals in the torso hip section, everything locks tightly and feels right whereas with the VF-25s I always wonder if I should go 1 or 2 clicks for the hips piece neither feeling totally right.

That's actually what the instructions show to do as well. Honestly, I can't even get the nose section in under the chest piece without doing that so I don't know how other people manage to do it without lifting that plate.

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I must say I didn't read the 27's instructions and didn't lift the plate up when I first transformed it. It didn't feel necessary to lift it up if everything lines up correctly.

The plate holding the head of the 27 is also much more stable (supported by the nosecone) than on my 25's so it must be a much tighter fit indeed

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I had mine shipped SAL from HS and it took all of 9 days to arrive at my door (NE, USA)... 7 days for the subsequent VF-25F that shipped 3 days later, also by SAL; both were very well packed and got to me in mint condition, so I wouldn't worry about it. If I'm not mistaken, HS offers the same range of shipping options as HLJ: regular SAL (no tracking), EMS, and FedEx; but other than SAL, the faster options are more expensive than HLJ's.

Edit: regular SAL means uninsured, so HS has no liability for shipping mishaps.

Edited by mechaninac
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