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1/100 Bandai FRX-00 Mave step-by-step


wm cheng

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A brief update while I let my clear-coat dry. Wow... holy micro decals Batman!! I think I need a few seconds to let my crossed eyes adjust!! :D

Well, after the decals on the last Bandai kit (Yukikaze Superslyph) were generally oversized (more like 1/72 than 1/100) well, they more than made up for it on this kit. These are tiny, in fact most of all the warning stencils were so small that they turned to be little blurs or smudges. As insane as it was, I spent the better part of the day applying all these little smudges - you may not be as crazy as this, and still the kit would be pretty much unchanged <_< Oh, well too much time on my hands.

I did cut out all the decal film between the red walkway lines on the wings - it was just too much film to hide. However, when you did this, you are left with a "U" shaped red stripe that was extremely difficult to get laid down in the proper geometry. I spent a good 1/2 hour on each of these red lines and a lot of water to keep them moist while I fiddled with one section or the other. But I believe the end result is worth it, a huge decal that were to cover most of the wing would have been easy to put on, but looked pretty bad in the areas between the red lines especially if the text and round emblem was to go on top of that too. What killed my eyes were trying to trim around the excess decal film around all the little stencils - but if you don't you'll end up with blobs of decal film around all these little smudges which is worst! Because the decals were so small or fragile, I applied them with water, brushed them into position with a damp brush, then dried the brush to "wick" out the excess water, and dabbed MicroSol setting/solvent solution on the edges once they were in position to help hide the decal film edges.

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Edited by wm cheng
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Here's the underside. The decals for the forward sensor area (the little irregular white patch) really do make that area pop out - I'm glad that I spent the time to mask that irregular shape out - I think it would be worth it. In the end, I am going to but dabs of blue transparent colour into the camera lens openings. The decals for this area came as three sections of little stencils, all held together with decal film. I again trimed this off and applied each stencil separately - if you leave the film on, I am afraid it would cover some neat details and a camera lens or two. (I'll do a shot close-up of this when I finish it off with the camera lenses - I also painted the lens housing in a silver). At this resolution it doesn't look like much, but all those little black smudges are separate stencils!!

I'll let you know how the flat-coat goes in a little while!

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I couldn't wait any further, 2 hours after my last semi-gloss clear coat, I started to try the flat-coat idea to bring back the lighter green-grey colour. Here is my "hair-brained" idea with the post-it notes. It didn't pull any decals off this time around, in fact, it kept falling off, and I had to re-adjust and apply the post-it notes before each time I spray the flat/matte finish clear-coat.

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Viola!! It turned out really well :D If I may say so myself :lol: I am so happy, I really was upset when after all that careful masking, the colour blended so much with the darker grey when I clear-coated the entire thing semi-gloss. In fact, I like it better now, where some parts of the plane is semi-gloss and some parts are flat - it gives an intersting sheen to the aircraft (especially when you walk around it) - especially where I chose to break the flat/semi finish at the panel lines. It makes it look more assembled from separate pieces and a sense of scale - sort of like the Enterprise A in the Star Trek movies with their subtle off-white panels.

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A rear view - its intersting how the flat pieces catch the light, in darkness or a darker environment, the two grey/green colours are still very close, but in bright light, you really see the contrast. In fact it makes the metallic steel look even more glossy.

What do you guys think of this grey/green version instead of the bluish one in the Model Graphix and the instructions?

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In these pictures you might forget how small this model kit really is. It makes the Hasegawa Valkyries roomy by comparison.

I'll wait till tomorrow when there is sun in my dining room to take some proper pictures of this new baby. I still haven't got a real clue on how to paint the missiles - any suggestions other than the instructions pale purple would be helpful.

Till tomorrow... :p

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Looks great as usual WM, as far as the missiles go I'd just check out some pics of some real missiles and copy some of the details over to these fictional ones. Many are white and have black or yellow stripes that wrap around the body of the missile etc.

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I can help with real-world missiles! (For the US/Nato at least)

Ok, basic color is 36375 Light Ghost Grey. Nose cones are either white or 36375. Fins are either 36375 or bare steel. (You will see HARM missiles still in pure white though)

As for stripes: Blue stripes indicate a dummy missile. ALL the stripes will be blue (nose and body). Stripes are in two locations generally--one up front for the warhead, one or two behind for the motor. There are no black stripes, they are brown.

A live missile (what you probably want) will have a yellow stripe upfront indicating a live warhead, and a brown stripe at the rear to indicate a live rocket motor.

PS--the alternating flat/gloss is EXACTLY the technique used for the original ST Movie Enterprise. It wasn't painted multiple shades of white--it was PURE white, the only difference was different flat/glossy patterns. For ST 2/3/4 etc it was painted differently, but the best-looking one was the first movie, and the effect was purely different levels of shine.

Here's perfect example of an AMRAAM---35375 grey overall, bare steel fins, white nose, front stripe yellow, rear stripes brown.

amraam-2.jpg

AMRAAM's on an F-16:

http://www.fas.org/man/dod-101/sys/missile...aam-990493c.jpg

AMRAAM's plus a HARM on an F-16:

http://www.fas.org/man/dod-101/sys/missile...20-untitled.jpg

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That contrast between the two greens is simply stunning! I hope you'll take some pics of this with the Sylph.

As for the missiles, I agree that the slammer scheme looks awesome!

I just hope that I can pull of something like this someday.

Anyway, so (aside from the alclad), this was painted using Tamiya acrylics?

Edited by Commander McBride
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That's an incredible magnificent work, WM Cheng, I wish I could such a good work like you (Theoreticaly, I knew a lot of thing about modelling, but, because of my studies at university, I haven't much time to built model kits, so that I didn"t practice for a long time) !

For the supposed Mave "Missiles", they aren't missiles but fuel tankers only !

I've downloaded the episode 2 of Yukikaze, in which the MAVE Yukikaze and the TS-X1 (AI-Controlled MAVE) appear, they seem to be cobalt blue (or something like this).

When the both Mave are under attacked during a test flight, we can see them ejecting their fuel tankers before engaging JAMs attack units.

I'll try to get some pictures of to clear off any misunderstandings about the colour of it.

See ya !

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The flat and satin contrast idea is brillant!! First time I see it on a plane cammo. Car/bike modelers use that technique to suggest different materials even if they have the same color. For instance if the car or bike have black plastic, rubber or even metal parts painted black you can make them look as different materials by just using satin, flat and gloss finish on them.

Thanks (once again) for sharing your work with us!

:)

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Hey thanks for the kudos everyone.

I am glad the flat thing restored the two grey/green tones - whew! that was a close one - and the post-it notes didn't even pull off a single decal! :D

Well there's no sun today, so I'll try to finish off the missiles before I take any beauty shots of this new addition to the family.

Thanks for all the great info on the missiles, I think I will follow it with a grey/blue shaft, white nose cone and silver fins - its a bit like the anime as well - I'll do a comprimise between the two styles. I'll do a yellow stripe for the live warhead, but maybe a red stripe instead of the brown to match the Yukikaze Superslyph's white missles with the red strips. we'll see.

Yes Cmd. McBride, I almost use Tamiya acrylics exclusively now (too bad I had to mix all the custom colours). There are the minor exceptions of the ModelMaster clear-coats, and the Alclad metallizers.

See you soon with some pics hopefully!

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theres more then 1 pdf file of his works?!?!?! shows me dems links pls =))

anwyas im here just to ask a newb question cuz ive seen your build and all and have built 19 hasegawa but for osme reason after my final top coat my water slide stickers r kinda well ugly.... they have lil bubbles everywhere? i dont understand

the i remeber you apply some decal solvent or such? could someone point me where to get some of that stuff? well in canada that is....

very limited shops here i tink at least in vancouver

(still havnet located that future floor finish yet... will try ikea soon...)

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Hey guys,

No sun yet, but I'll try for that family shot when it comes out, maybe Tuesday.

Hey IIymij, maybe you could start a new thread and post pictures of your decals (closeups) so I can what the bubbles look like. The decal solvents and setting solutions are a bit tricky, I would only recommend after mastering regular decal placement do you move up to these, because they have ruined a few precious decals for me in the past. The solvents and setting solutions softens the decals so much so that they confirm to highly irregular surfaces, corners and panel lines, but in the process, they become extremely fragile to the point of "printed goo" as one modeller pointed out to me. Lets take a look at your decals first and see if we can solve it without the solvent and solution. There really is no need to use this stuff when you just want the decal to lie flat - and the Hasegawa decals are one of the best quality ones I have had the pleasure of working with, unlike old revel or monogram stuff.

You should dip them in room temp water for about 6-8sec, then take out - they should easily slide off with a wet/damp brush. Put the decal with the decal paper backing on your model and nudge it off with a wet brush. Keep the model and decal wet at all times while you re-position the decal into the final position. Once its where you want it, take a damp cloth or paper towel (prefereably lintless) and dab gently at the decal to push any water and air bubbles out from underneath the decal. Then let dry

Good Luck

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theres more then 1 pdf file of his works?!?!?! shows me dems links pls =))

anwyas im here just to ask a newb question cuz ive seen your build and all and have built 19 hasegawa but for osme reason after my final top coat my water slide stickers r kinda well ugly.... they have lil bubbles everywhere? i dont understand

the i remeber you apply some decal solvent or such? could someone point me where to get some of that stuff? well in canada that is....

very limited shops here i tink at least in vancouver

(still havnet located that future floor finish yet... will try ikea soon...)

19 Hasegawa models! Hey we got our own modeling forum now so I wanna see that line up!

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hiya guys

well yea ive finally got my future finish woopie! but i forgot how to apply it to the clear plastic pieces and wodnering if i paint the windshield frame fire before applying or after

but on a side note i took a whole bunch of digi cam pix of my 19 **the one that has the bubbles** but the pix just didnt turn out rite ill redo them again

but ill try to describe them to ya

they just look like air bubles lots of tiny ones i dont no what happened cuz it looked fine after i used my q-tip like perfectly nice and flat but after a semi gloss coat of tamiya stuff it just kinda shrivled up?

just wanna no some insight on what i can do to prevent decal shriveling and such

WM you rock! your models own hopefully when i get my airbrush ill be 1 step closer to your 1337 skillZ

show me more!!!

:o

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Hey IIymij,

GLad to hear you've got the future, for the clear parts at least, alll I do is find a part of the canopy that I won't see (like a peg or frame) and use a pair of pliers and dunk the entire thing in the future. I then take it out, and angle it to let it drip off the excess, sometimes if I see excess pooling up around the edges, I would dab it with a paper towel (look for lint!) but pretty much leave it alone for a few hours and let it harden. I would paint the canopy frame on afterwards, since you probably don't want the frame to have the same glossy sheen as the clear portion of the canopy anyways. Word of caution, the future doesn't do well with Microscale liquid mask - I think there is either alcohol or ammonia in it that will eat away at the future finish. Hence if you goof up (and I have many times) you can strip the future off with regular blue windex (it has ammonia) and try again.

Good Luck.

I don't know about your decals at the moment - maybe if we could see pictures.

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