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Tv Max Custom Using Fusion


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so i'm 95% finished with my TV max. i used a 1J hikaru for this custom as well with a minimum amount of painting much like the TV ben i did.

the spraypaint i used is called Fusion made by Krylon, its patriotic blue gloss. unfortunately, they don't make a satin finish which i would've made my day. i'm not totally finished, i'm just waiting a little longer for the paint to dry before filling in details.

i'm just posting a few pics for now so please take a look and let me know what you think. :)

heres max in fighter mode....yay!

max.jpg

a side view in battroid...note i didn't paint the headlaser since i'm waiting on fulcy.

maxside.jpg

paint comparison w/flash

as you can see the custom blue is a bit darker and glossy....i really wish they made this color in satin finish.

armscomp.jpg

heres a paint comparison w/o flash...notice even after days of drying time, the paint still scratched off on the little arm nubs.

armcompnoflash.jpg

heres ben and max...

vermillion.jpg

all in all, i really liked how it came out. i did learn a few things i should and shouldn't do when making a custom like not taking apart every single piece in order to paint something....i.e. the head.

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Whoaaa, awsome job. Is that the same paint that Datterboy and EXO used? You got some funny lighting going on, because the flash pics make the blue appear more yellow that the color really is. I think some daytime shots would show off that custom much better.

Is that Krylon "Gloss" or "Semigloss"? I used Rustoleum for Plastic in semigloss, and it pretty much looks glossy against the rough ABS surface.

Still no luck color-matching Kakizaki's brown, huh?

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hey,

first of all great work!!!!!!

can you explain in detail how you did this custom?

what kind of white paint did you use ? did you use primer? i have done my own custom with a master piece VF-!A but i am a little afraid of doing it with a 1/48 because if a screw up that is a whole lot of flow down the tube!

what do you recommend.?

thanks alan.

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ghostryder,

yeah its the same paint that datterboy and EXO used, they're the ones who recommend it to me. :)

yellow? you might have to adjust your monitor because it looks blue to me.....atleast a cheapy colored blue. it could be the camera, this things is from the stone ages, put it this way, its only a 1.3 megapixel. :lol:

Gabe Q,

many thanks! EXO finished the head, hes just waiting on the caster, hopefully it'll be sooner than later. :unsure:

agr33,

i took a 1J hikaru and stripped off the red paint off using Brasso and steel wool. i removed the paint off chest plate, fuselage, wings, backpack, and rear landing gear doors. this will give you a nice white valk without having to paint or color match anything. this also lets you play with your valk to a certain degree. while i absolutely love the works of art that the model guys do, i like being able to handle my toy like toy and not a work of art. the only painting involved was doing the blue highlights. i used Krylon Fusion spray paint which is specifically designed for painting plastic. you don't have to do anything, no priming, no sanding, no nadda.

there are some materials you'll need outside of the paint but everything is easy to come by. i got some styrofoam and stuck a bunch of tooothpicks in it to support the individual parts while painting so that i could paint each part without having to actually touch it or leave it resting on my table.(i'll take a pic of it if you want). painting the forearms, shoulders, hips, was the easiest part, the legs were the most time consuming since the masking part does take quite a while and you gotta do it 4 times.

for the head, i made the mistake of disassembling the entire head and spraying each individual piece, this is NOT the way to do it at all. if anything, just disassemble it and remove the green visor, then reassemble it and paint it as a whole. once its dried(7 days) you can then take the head apart and reinsert the visor. if you don't want to do all this, just mask off the visor and spray....i just didn't want any paint on the visor so i took it out beforehand.

once you got everything propped up and ready to go, bust out the spray paint and follow the instructions. just keep in mind light coats will leave a textured satin surface while a heavier coat will leave a smooth glossier surface....this paint is sort of weird but i still like it! :D this was a test dummy so to speak, i figured if it came out kind of meh, i could easily sell it on ebay and get my money back so theres no reason to be afraid. :)

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Neeat.  So why Krylon?  Or at least why it's popularity here for customizing 1/48's?  Why not one of the other paint brands, specifically those geared towards hobbyists?

364119[/snapback]

Krylon fusion and similar products are designed to adhere to plastics better, don't need primer, and have an enamel hardness that stands up better to "play" than model paints, without needing to add a top coat. It's great for us unskilled quasi-hobbyists.

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Nice job Haterist!

Now you're ready to hit that D...

I think your cam has some color balance issues cuz the shots I've taken with Krylon come out more vivid. I think your shots aren't doing the paint justice.

At any rate, paint wear will still happen if you don't sand down really tight spots like the arm nubs. That fit was very specific to be tight to hold in fighter mode, so I'd recommend touching it up with paint on a toothpick and drilling a slightly looser hole to avoid the wear. Also, several layers of the Krylon helps too since it makes for a thicker shell. It is very possible to scratch off Fusion when you have light coats.

Now, what are you gonna do about Ben's shoulders?

I'm going the hard way.. painting EVERYTHING....

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Neeat.  So why Krylon?  Or at least why it's popularity here for customizing 1/48's?  Why not one of the other paint brands, specifically those geared towards hobbyists?

364119[/snapback]

Krylon fusion and similar products are designed to adhere to plastics better, don't need primer, and have an enamel hardness that stands up better to "play" than model paints, without needing to add a top coat. It's great for us unskilled quasi-hobbyists.

364124[/snapback]

hit the nail on the head. :)

BTW, thats a might fine boomstick you got there! :D

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Nice job Haterist!

Now you're ready to hit that D...

I think your cam has some color balance issues cuz the shots I've taken with Krylon come out more vivid.  I think your shots aren't doing the paint justice. 

At any rate, paint wear will still happen if you don't sand down really tight spots like the arm nubs.  That fit was very specific to be tight to hold in fighter mode, so I'd recommend touching it up with paint on a toothpick and drilling a slightly looser hole to avoid the wear.  Also, several layers of the Krylon helps too since it makes for a thicker shell.  It is very possible to scratch off Fusion when you have light coats.

Now, what are you gonna do about Ben's shoulders?

I'm going the hard way.. painting EVERYTHING....

364128[/snapback]

ah, you are very wise man datter-sans! *bows* i shall now drill the holes for the arm nubs a little bigger. :D

oddly enough, thats the only place where the paint rubbed off during transformation, even the blue paint on the hips didn't scratch and i thought that was definitely going to be a problem area. i also didn't bother sanding down any of the areas i should've but the paint is holding up.

the shoulders for the TV ben have been plaguing me, i just can't find a good color match. but since the Fusion seems to hold up nicely, i may just paint the TV ben like my TV max, i just need to find a place that has more than a handful of colors to choose from.

oh, and the D is coming soon! :D

Edited by haterist
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From what I had read about the Fusion, it was initially indicated on the forums here that it was a dye, but the Krylon site indicates it's more of a molecular bond and not a dye. Not to mention, depending on what you're painting, the condition of the surface you're painitng on matters a lot. Have had a bit of issues painting resin that had too much release agent on it.

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agr33,

i didn't take an progress pics, it didn't even cross my mind since its pretty self-explanitory, but heres a pic of the work station. i used some styrofoam to hold the toothpicks upright, the newspaper on over it to help keep the toothpick straight and keep the styrofoam from dissolving, then some toothpicks to support the parts i had to paint. it took all of 5 seconds to setup, then its spray and pray time.

work.jpg

getting slightly off topic, the fusion paint is definitely not a dye. i believe theres some chemical agent in the paint that breaks up the molecular bond of the plastic, then as the paint dries, it fuses into the plastic creating a shell so to speak.

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So Krylon's nice and durable, especially for toys... but I'm guessing the downside is the lack of color choices and finishes? How would Krylon fair with a topcoat to get the finish you want? But I suppose one might just use hobby paints if you're going to go about doing that...

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they have a wide array of colors available, its just the retailers never have more than a handful of colors they keep in stock. put it this way, i had to special order the patriotic blue at some commercial paint store. they make both satin and gloss finishes for a lot of the colors but none of the ones i need. i wanted to use the pumpkin orange and khaki for my 1D but the pumpkin is gloss and the khaki is satin. :mellow:

anyway, heres a link to the color swatches and some prices....

click me!

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Nice custom. I am sorry you used FUSION on it. I have used the Fusion paint and it positively *SUCKS* for wear.

Your best bet is to go to AUTOZONE and purchase high heat DUPLICOLOR engine paint for anything dealing with customs. It dries fast and is hard as nails.

The only thing that will save your hard work is to find some DUPLICOLOR and CLEAR coat it then go back with a Krylon MATTE clear (I don't think DUPLICOLOR makes a non-gloss clear coat). Otherwise you'll be constantly touching up your Valk.

DUPLICOLOR IS THE BEST. Better than Rustoleum. Better than Krylon. Better than anything you will find.

Their HIGH HEAT CLEAR COAT is awesome.

Edited by Skull-1
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So Krylon's nice and durable, especially for toys... but I'm guessing the downside is the lack of color choices and finishes?  How would Krylon fair with a topcoat to get the finish you want?  But I suppose one might just use hobby paints if you're going to go about doing that...

364519[/snapback]

Krylon SUCKS.

Take my word for this. I have been around the block with just about everything.

It does not dry fast nor hold up to wear very well at all.

I would highly recommend using DUPLICOLOR ENGINE PAINT. It holds up to serious abuse. Krylon just wears too easily.

Edited by Skull-1
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Neeat.  So why Krylon?  Or at least why it's popularity here for customizing 1/48's?  Why not one of the other paint brands, specifically those geared towards hobbyists?

364119[/snapback]

Krylon fusion and similar products are designed to adhere to plastics better, don't need primer, and have an enamel hardness that stands up better to "play" than model paints, without needing to add a top coat. It's great for us unskilled quasi-hobbyists.

364124[/snapback]

I wholeheartedly disagree.

Fusion paint is by far the worst paint I have ever used. It does not do what it is advertised to do. It rubs off very easily. Unless you clear coat it you will regret it.

If you sand your Valk and leave it just a slight bit rough...any paint should stick to it very well without primer.

I recommend DUPLICOLOR engine paints.

Edited by Skull-1
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My experience with Krylon has been really good so far. Note that this is FUSION and not Krylon's regular suff. Was it FUSION you used?

At any rate, engine paint sounds pretty damn awesome, but sounds thick too. Would it work on small scale customs as well? And how's the color palette for it? Always looking for other options.

The VF-1D I made with Fusion does not chip at all, but I'm not big on transforming back and forth.

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Yes it is FUSION. I used FUSION because it was the only way to find this color green:

http://robotech-aod.com/images/ValkToys/Dr...tcher-Valk.html

It was the biggest cluster*#$ I hav ever dealt with in my life.

Engine paint is no thicker than any other paint. It is simply more durable. Add to this the fact that you don't need a primer coat... It's thin and handles many transformations with ease.

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Skull-1

I get the feeling you don't like Krylon :rolleyes:

Are these the colors available in DUPLICOLOR, or did you use the high-heat stuff? Racing green might have worked for you custom.

Dupli-Color® Engine Enamel with Ceramic

DE 1601 Ford Blue

DE 1602 Universal White

DE 1604 Universal Gold

DE 1605 Ford Red

DE 1606 Ford Dark Blue

DE 1607 Chevrolet Orange-Red

DE 1608 General Motors Blue

DE 1609 Chevrolet Blue

DE 1610 Pontiac Blue

DE 1611 New Ford Gray

DE 1612 Gray Engine Primer

DE 1613 Gloss Black

DE 1614 Cummins Diesel Gold

DE 1615 Aluminum

DE 1616 Pontiac Blue Metallic

DE 1617 Ford Green

DE 1618 Detroit Diesel Alpine Green

DE 1619 Chrysler Green

DE 1620 Chevrolet Orange

DE 1621 Old Ford Blue

DE 1622 Chrysler Orange

DE 1631 Chrysler Corp. Blue

DE 1632 Chrysler Industrial Red

DE 1634 GM/Chrysler Low Gloss Black

DE 1635 Ford Semi-Gloss Black

DE 1636 Clear

DE 1638 Cummins Beige

DE 1640 Plum Purple

DE 1641 Grabber Green (Lime)

DE 1642 Daytona Yellow

DE 1643 Torque ‘N’ Teal

DE 1644 Racing Green (Hunter)

DE 1645 Ruby Red

DE 1646 Trophy Blue

DE 1650 Cast Coat Aluminum

DE 1651 Cast Coat Iron

Edited by ghostryder
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I definitely use FORD BLUE. That is one of the best ever. I use HIGH HEAT AND REGULAR. They all work tremendously well.

Racing Green was a little too "NEON" for my needs sadly.

Edited by Skull-1
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I'm still searching for the perfect spray-bomb for basic overall painting like primer, white, grey, etc. I currently like Testors "Light Aircraft grey" but it's still thicker/grainier/bumpier than I'd like, and far more expensive than hardware-store paint. But I use it because it has lead to my best results, even though most of the time it just comes out "ok".

Gunship grey still sprays the best but far too dark for most things.

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DUPLICOLOR you say? too bad my custom is done otherwise i'd take your advice. :p

as far as krylon not holding up, it could be true(only time will tell) but i'm not one to play play with my toys. and as i mentioned eariler, outside of the arms nubs, none of the paint chipped/scratched off during transformation soooo....

perhaps its has something to do with the differences in the plastic? you've been doing 1/55 customs so i take it you had a bad experience using Fusion on a chunky monkey? the 1/55 plastic is COMPLETELY diffferent from the 1/48 plastic, so that might have something to do with your results? :unsure: if you've tried using the fusion on a 1/48, then i stand corrected.

anyhow, next custom i may take your advice and try the duplicolor but as it stands the krylon fusion is holding up nicely...atleast for my standards.

Edited by haterist
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DUPLICOLOR you say?  too bad my custom is done otherwise i'd take your advice.  :p 

as far as krylon not holding up, it could be true(only time will tell) but i'm not one to play play with my toys.  and as i mentioned eariler, outside of the arms nubs, none of the paint chipped/scratched off during transformation soooo....

 

perhaps its has something to do with the differences in the plastic?  you've been doing 1/55 customs so i take it you had a bad experience using Fusion on a chunky monkey?  the 1/55 plastic is COMPLETELY diffferent from the 1/48 plastic, so that might have something to do with your results?  :unsure:  if you've tried using the fusion on a 1/48, then i stand corrected. 

anyhow, next custom i may take your advice and try the duplicolor but as it stands the krylon fusion is holding up nicely...atleast for my standards.

364840[/snapback]

My advice to you is to stick with what works.

You may have a valid point regarding the types of plastic. The age of the plastic and the method used to strip it could also affect the paint.

Don't do what I do without using a small test specimen first.

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