m0n5t3r

i think a same diameter pin w/out the serrated fat end would do just fine. the pin doesn't slide out even w/out the fat end even after repeatedly closing/opening the hinge.

the LERX too. but i would have preferred it plastic like on the 1/48 (visible paint chipping).

good catch! can't notice it unless i squint a little. nope, didn't photoshop it, got it from charger's post. DAMN! can't get enough of those pics of the Max TV 1A!

seemed to me that this new thread isn't complete w/o some ready to see pics...

WOW! very cool custom valk!

"gay" colors+pattern??? ...just sayin'

Yamato's dishing out some Max lovin'... done w/ Focker & Hikaru, now Max... betting to see Max 1J pics soon... customs schemes might come after they're done w/ all the canon valks...

nice... thanks for the pics! scratch the idea of getting the 1/48 then...

my thoughts, exactly. but 40-50% off sounds much better.

is it supposed to be/really gonna be black???... the 1D shoulder

doh!?!?! nylon... guess that's why i couldn't find it in a hardware store... anyway, thanks for the heads up, man.

gaddamnit!!!!! i can't find any of those 6-32 screws! what the hell... i just used my metal cutting saw and some more sandpaper... sorry for the SOC ... just wanted to try if it could handle some heavy metal.

LOL. true that!

cool, you got it fixed and posing again... action base holds the the valk in battroid pretty well, right?

no prob., man. hope you can fix your 1S and be able to play with it again.

Too BIG or too small? ... sorry, couldn't resist asking...

congrats! still waiting to get mine... MORE PICS!

well, this has been my theory too... either make the diameter of the fat end of the pin smaller or make the plastic there thicker. there are no signs or news of cracking or even just stress marks on the "normal diameter" end of the pin. anyways... here are some pics of the sanded pin and when i put it back. i tested by transforming to fighter and forcibly pushed in the hinges to stow away under the metal swing bar (w/c is oddly a much tighter fit compared to the 1s's)... and then while in F-mode i pushed down on the shoulders and moved the whole arm assembly in and out. while in battroid, i dangled the 1J while holding on to one of its arms and shook it like a rag doll. i also tried to be as rough as i could while swinging the hinge over the tab that holds it in B-mode.

that's what i meant by "locking away the MacF license forever"... meaning Yamato or any other company will never ever get their hands on it even when every Macross fan is dead and gone... EDIT - re paint scratching - looks like the white plastic and paint app on SOC Daimos. but i guess if you're going to treat it like your "play toy" as opposed to your "display piece" then these things like paint chipping/scratching, loosening of joints etc. is bound to happen. no worries.

i wasn't sure if i'd be modding the hinge pins on my 1J after i had done the pins for my Roy & Hik 1S's (since both are 1S's that have pins that have the fat end pointing in opposite directions, one up, one down... compared to my 1J that has both L & R pins pointing down)... but after seeing len's pic of his cracked 1J hinge i decided to go ahead and do shoulder surgery on my 1J. putting some oil/lubricant before pushing the pin out is a must... i tried pushing it out w/o any lube and it didn't budge and might crack if it is forced. i used a precision torx-head screwdriver that's about the same/smaller diameter as the pin. will sand it down tomorrow... zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz pics below:

sorry to hear this, man... guess i'll be modding the hinge pins on my 1J after all... @len - just a suggestion... if you're planning to fix that cracked hinge, you could get the pin out first and sand it before super-gluing the crack. to be on the safe side, still put some oil/lubricant coz i've tried pushing it out w/out any lube, and the pin wouldn't budge and the crack might worsen if it's forced. good luck fixing it.

nice! i wish i could paint...

cool... inggit ako! ...except for the clothes hanger, LOL!

i'm waiting too... for any of these things to happen: 1) Bandai announcement for a Renewal ver. or Movie ver. w/ improvements 2) indication that this will be the first and last VF-25 mold that Bandai will do and lock away the Frontier license forever 3) if standalone VF-25's go on sale for $100 or less and Super Packs become non-exclusive items 4) a miracle happens and Yamato does a 1/60 VF-25 that resembles and has the aesthetic qualities of the 1/72 model kit 5) or if my doctor tells me i have 2-3 years left to live i'm lucky that i have convinced myself that i can go on living w/out a DX VF-25... for the time being

you are lucky... i guess that can happen if you can ask the online store to make the shipment's docs state that it has no commercial value or they're used or just samples. i've heard of someone who paid customs around 500-700 for a single revoltech fig!