Fly4victory

I paid for the fast shipping but come up with the short end of the stick. It hasn't been shipped yet and I pre-ordered in May.

I have the Hasegawa model still in the box and can scan the sheet. My 1/48 Angel Bird has not shipped yet. It is disappointing that not all the markings are present.

That is great news that it looks better first hand. I am jealous. Mine is still sitting on Pre-Order.

Perhaps it is a color change to tell the difference between Super and standard VF-1J like the color change on the VF-21?

Has anyone received a set of the new Low Vis armor yet?

Take care with the decals. Twenty year old water transfers do not work very well. Do you have the ability to scan and then reprint the decals? If not recommend getting the sheets for a 1/72 Hasegawa.

I reviewed the scene many times to figure out how the gunpod was mounted on the S-3 Viking so that I could build one. The S-3 had an additional hard point on its wing between the engine and the external fuel tank. The handle of the gun pod locked into a special wing store that was attached to the hard point. The airflow between the external fuel tank and the engine would have been very turbulent plus the gunpod would have been unstable since it would be dropped with the vertical fins forward into the air stream. That would cause the gunpod to rotate 180 degrees on release and possibly impact the refueling aircraft. I can understand the reluctance of the crew not wanting to release the pod. It is anime so shift of CG, asymmetric loading, and all the other holes in the theory do not apply. I just find the idea of takeoff and landing interesting with the gunpod projecting so far aft. Unless there was a traversing mechanism that would elevate to gun different positions automatically it would impact the deck.

Knowing that the 19 is on the way, voted for the VF-11. It is a given that the YF-21 will be made then hopefully the 22. The Ghost is the real outsider.

The VF-1S is a modified version of http://www.foundrydx.com/vf1s.html this started the lego fever from purchased plans. The VF-4, non variable, and YF-19, partial variable, are my designs. The VF-22 is at http://www.mocpages.com/moc.php/14141 There are no plans so I had to look at the pictures and figure it out. http://www.brickcommander.com/ has destroids from Battletech and required minor modification and slight color change. The plans are free. The monster is also my design and the hardest. It is very heavy and not user friendly. I have seen a VB-6 in gray that was variable but do not have the link. I had been working on a Cheyenne from Macross Zero but it has been on hold for about two months. All I have is the back, gatling guns and arms. I have also been thinking about the VB-3 and VF-5000. The legos have been put aside to play with my airbrush. That and work likes to interrupt. The custom lego mini-figs were drawn with MS paint and then sent to Cybertron's Heroes and Villains on ebay for production. He had Star Wars and Star Trek but no Macross.

Complete collection posted http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?...t=120&p=423309&

No longer on the counter; now safe behind glass and the Lego shelf at work.

Yes, I owe picks of the entire collection. I will post this week in the other thread. I have to use my wife's camera. My phone picks suck!

Picks of the handle mishap. Good to know that is the design.

I got the VF-1S exclusive and then tried the production three from Valk-Exchange. The production versions had tighter joints than the Hikaru VF-1S which was kind of floppy. Max's VF-1A gun pod came apart. The handles seem to be snap-fit with no glue. Toynami seems to have a decent product.

Only in the orient could you have a giant gundam and a hot chick. That Gundam would be an end to dating unless you went back to her place.

Pitchforks for a 1/60 VF-0. No! I just got a call from Graham. His secret news is a 1/48 scale VF-0. Then run for the hills as a confused mob still torches your house.

Well, personally, I'd say the burden of proof falls more heavily on someone who would make the affirmative claim that concerns about HG's license did influence Yamato's vf-1a head design. The negative claim (that such concerns did not play a role) would be the default assumption. For example, if I suggested that random electrical discharges in the Crab nebula influenced the HG-bashing sentiment on this bbs, and you countered that they did not, the onus would clearly be on me to establish that they did, since that claim is so obviously improbable. The same is true here. I am forced to say 'someone' in my first sentence because you don't have the balls to decide if you're going to back that affirmative claim or not, but instead use innuendo to put the idea out there, and then swipe at those who pooh-pooh it. (note the little smiley, which makes it all a joke!) 422156[/snapback] Dude! That makes my head hurt. I will need my wife to translate. Hate to see the impact of my using a 1983 Imai VF-1A Head on a 2004 Hasegawa VF-1S fighter with the resin orbital booster. Will H.G. now take my lunch money?

No! Oppose the MW wifes club. They may provide a united defense and stop any future Yamato purchases.

I love the MG valks. I'd love to have this Minmay statue-thing... but yeah, I think my wife would sort of have an aneurism if that showed up in the mail. 422144[/snapback] This version of Minmay would put my wife over the top. She likes the valks and the music just not Minmay. I would need to hide the figure in the closet. Guess that makes me a Closet Minmay Lover!

Give Graham permission to release production information the instant he is provided it.

The sandpaper is used to rough up the paint so that the alcohol will work faster. I tried using a hobby knife but that is too dangerous. Not just to hands which heal but to the Valk which does not. The sandpaper will scratch the plastic but will remove knife nicks. The knife worked great on the head and vertical fins but damaged the chest plate. Any imperfections in the surface will be visible when you spray. I used 3m green masking tape that I picked up Autozone to mask the black that I did not want removed on the chest plate. An alcohol q-tip was them used to remove the paint. The yellow on the VF-1S seems to survive better that the black. I wanted to “surgically†remove the yellow and then spray Max Blue but had to touch up with some black spray and Gundum Marker when I was finished and remove some blue over spray on the legs. I have not tried any of the new stuff. This was my first Valk custom on a used E-bay 1S. I also masked the front of the heat shield so the skull would not be damaged if I slipped with the electric drill q-tip brasso combo. I kept the speed low so that the friction would not cause heat buildup and possibly damage or deform the shield. Total time to prep for painting after disassembly was about two hours.

I have some 1/18 aircraft, F104, P40, F4U and they are great but I could only have one 1/18 VF based on size. That would be a difficult choice as to which and if it had super or strike fast packs...that would be something to see.

Drinking and working on a Valk is not a good idea....at least for me. I am nervous enough taking it apart. Besides I get light headed enough from the airbrush. The quick and easy way for me was 400 grit wet/dry sand paper, 90% isopropyl alcohol, and for the clear heat shield brasso, q tip and a cordless drill.

Yeah, Toynami is great at making boxes. That is what the kids get excited about. The package and that works until you are about four years old. I just got mine from Lost and Found Toys today (84 of 1,000). Great sticker over the UPC code. Have all the low numbers been on-line?

Thanks for the picks. Great reference for size. The new Toynami makes the old super posable look good.