kanata67

damn... I wanted something cool to display with my 1/100 die-cast and destroid converion kit . If they are discontinuing does that mean somebody might recast it? How much did it go for anyways?

whats this voting crap for what I should have to sacrifice??!?!?!?!? All I want is the 19a I already have with fastpacks. Doesn't seem that hard to do as they did it with the 11b [which needed hip improvements as well]. Heck... I'd be happy enough if I could get another 19a without f/p at retail

having had both... I thought the bootlegs were about as crapy as the bandai's. First bandai valks I ever sold because they disgusted me... and anybody who knows my bandai lovin but knows how serious that is. I have the bootleg 19 and the 17 and the are just as good/crappy as the bandai 19 and 17 I had and sold. I am talking about the bandai re-release ones though [the ones sold in fighter mode] as opposed to the original release [packaged as battroid] and I don't know if there is a quality difference. The only bandai one I might even be tempted to get is one of the "chrome" editions... but at $200 I'd rather use the money towards a bandai I really want like a seeker. On the other hand... my yamato hating butt [1/60 at least as I have sold/traded away evey one I've owned] has to say that yamato's 19a made the bandai one look like the comparison between a ferrarri gto vs. a ford pinto. If yamato could make the same style toy SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO much better is it any wonder bandai isn't even trying to improve theirs or come up with new stuff? Like a dollar store hammer vs an estwing, a dollar store flashlight vs a maglight, a bic vs. a zippo... do you want disposable of something that doesn't suck. The choice is yours.

somebody explain this to me... boxed 1/55 o' with sad styro for $255 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...AMEDW%3AIT&rd=1 and a super o' valk only for 162.50! http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...AMEDW%3AIT&rd=1 the box and armor + stro are worth less than $100?!?!? I spent more than that on a recast set of o' armor!?!@ granted my loose O' in better shape only set me back $30 so either way I'm ahead. Why does nobody ever sell a boxed seeker where the armor was never removed, the box is perfect, and somebody took sparklers and a bb gun to the seeker valk itself so I can get it cheap?!?!?

unapplied stickers, unfolded box flap, still sealed in tray by factory tape... worth it to some I'm sure if an unopened jetfire with uncreased box flap can fetch 1400+

kinda cool...

"The page cannot be displayed" and I wanted to see a gliding jesus

1: I started out with gaming minis, mostly D&D and warhammer. I did a couple hundred and was never really satisfied with my work even though I sold chess sets for ungodly ammounts of money and had a pice in a magazine... depends on how high your standards are. I learn something new each time [or at least remember something my hippie ass forgot ]. I find myself enjoying engineering toy mods more than painting the piece once it's completed so I have quite a number of mechs/valks awaiting a paint job. You learn some real cool detail techniques doing mini's but large flat surfaces screw with me 2: let paint dry before handling painted pieces. Sometimes paint doesn't dry the way it should because the "mold release agent" was not washed off with warm soapy water and the kit rinsed, and allowed to dry. Always "prep" your models completely to avoid issues. Primer also helps. You can get citadel spray primer in white or black... choose according for what your shading/pre-shading colors/techniqes will be. 3: compressed air. AIr blows dust and debris off quite nicely. Heck... I use a 200+ mph leaf blower to get the cat hair off my kitchen tile 4: paint a whole bunch of various cheap crap quickly and with complete disregard for style. A few "prectice" piece like that old jetfire thats been painted 7 times practicing color schemes and techniques is great. Make a chess set out of battle tech figs for detail; experience. Hell... paint the walls. The more you do something the better you get. I can earn praise from others for my painting of toys and minis but I can't paint a black cat in the dark on a moonless night in 2d to save my life

smooth-on is great. Everybody should pick up a "sampler pack" and experiment. I got mine and even [finally] have original stuff to cast from. Now I just need to wait till it's no longer 90+ friggin degrees out with a 98% humidity

plexiglass and pvc with the main cannons functional potato guns... I can just upscale the file print out to be as big as I want it mwa-ha-ha

look at the plastic blister first. You can usually use a scalple/knife to cut the bottomw and right+left sides creating a natural type flap. Card is ok and toy should come out easily. You can put toy back in blister at a later date if you wish and tape the blister back in place. Most people don't do it this way as it takes up a lot more storage space than a stack of just the cards. I have found it useful to do at first in case I want to reseale the toy as I can always cut the rest of the blister off later. I've only bothered "re-blistering" 1 toy so far... a factory defective spawn figure that displayed much better on card than in pile .

You only get robber when it's against your will. This was just plain haste and stupidity on the buyers part. 319291[/snapback] While the buyer may be a complete moron, there may also be some shady SHILL bidding going on. I keep seeing this more and more on Evilbay. 319796[/snapback] If that is the case we ppl who are honest on ebay get shafted then... 319801[/snapback] only the stupid honest people. It's not what you know but being able to find the information you need that shows intelligence. If you can't price compare or do a "completed auctions" search... It's only a mistake if you don't learn from it. on a side note..... Retirement Plan - If you had purchased $1000.00 of Nortel stock one year ago, it would now be worth $49.00. With Enron, you would have $16.50 left of the original $1,000.00. With WorldCom, you would have less than $5.00 left. But, if you had purchased $1,000.00 worth of Beer one year ago, drank all the beer, then turned in the cans for the aluminum recycling price, you would have $214.00. Based on the above, current investment advice is to drink heavily and recycle. It's called the 401-Keg Plan..

He F***ED it up. Hey katana67, is this your work? 319195[/snapback] I may some pretty f_cked up customs but not even my disturbed mind would do that. Merge a 19 with spawn figs maybe... but not that

once a week at best just to see if I won anything. I just do comprehensive searches to make sure nothing cool slips through the crack. I am a cheap SOB so anytime something I just can't say no to comes along I just can't say no. FYI you have the privilage of being the seller of the most I have ever spent on a single auction to date. I really do like that sellers approach... I should get my wife to do that to increase sales remember... no matter how beutiful a woman is... somewhere there is a guy who is tired of f_cking her

if you can't find it pm me with your email as I have it stored somewhere on one of the pc's in my house. I strongly reccomend you use the search function first as I am realy bad about doing anything but my job in a timely fashion

haven't checked this thread in a while. A brit in the house? Any chance you could track down the brit release of a matsu? Maybe an empty large "YOP" bottle?[don't ask as it's incriminating]. I managed a hostel in earl's court for a year and picked up some bad habits LOL. anyways... currently on me "work bench", it's technically a room full of stuff I have no time to deal with at the moment' is a smooth on sampler pack, a 1/55 original gbp-1s I mean to recast, a 1/55 strike I plan to recast, 10+ jetfires I need to assemble, a 1/55 repair manula I need to make and host, a couple of busted box windows I need to replace, a matchbox tactical pod I've been meaning to make a recastible scout package for, some swords that need to get hung on the wall, a crossbow that need the laser sight installed, a few antique weapons I need to make display cases for, some custom officer pods I need to finish, some more custum macross+spawn custums I need to finish, an sdf I need to either custum of find arms for, a seeker in need of a box, a O' in need of a box, a gbp in need of a box, some crap I need to sell, MY computer which I need to add a hard drive to which is sitting on top of it, and probably a lot of stuff I'm forgeting about. Managed to handle every other room of the house since we bought it but my "office" just gets more crap I don't have the time to deal with stacked on top of other crap I meant to deal with before the move . Work 80 hrs a week to be able to afford the crap I don't have time to play with

ok... thats like the fifth time I tried to add a pic and the system just goes to a white page. I refresh and still a white page. Is there something screwy with the new site as I used to upload all the time before the revision. Or is that the thing... I'm just not allowed to upload because my stuff is to freaky? Just wanted to post some macross toys that suffered horrendous misfortune in my hands

I'm a 1/55 fan myself but I'd agree with the mechanical pencil idea. Worst case scenario you can remove it, unlike marker. I would definately say that you should wait till you get it, examine it, and judge for your self. Only you know what you want and how you want it. If I relied on others opinions half my custums wouldn't have been made. On the other hand some of my customs are worth less than the parts to make them

sex sells http://cgi.ebay.com/Huge-Lot-of-738-PS1-Pl...1QQcmdZViewItem anybody live in arizona want to pick this up for me??? http://cgi.ebay.com/247-RX-78-2-Gundam-Slo...1QQcmdZViewItem

I love guys who don't know how to transform http://cgi.ebay.com/TAKATOKU-MACROSS-SUPER...1QQcmdZViewItem cash only

1/100 pod conversion kit to fight with my destroid conversion kit. Extra frames sold seperately. One of these days I'll get around to working on my matchbox tactical to scout conversion kit... honest

But lets give Bandai credit for rejuvnating (Bring back to life) the 1/55 series w/ the upgraded featuures to it. And that I greatly appreciated. I just wish they could have reissue the Super Ostrich, Elintseeker, and Strike Valk, you know. trust me... bandai will re-release the seeker and ostrich... Right after I buy one at the current price I still think a max/milla wedding set like somebody did waaaaay back would be cooler to have... but thats just me.

AT LAST... some-one else on the boards who realizes how wonderful "quick-gel" is. As strong as crazy glue but dosen't run down the part onto your fingers neccesitating going to work with half a jetfire head stuck to your finger just don't get in the habit of taking the cap off and on with your teeth... trust me

throw it against the wall and then remove battery . seriously though... I don't believe the circuit is engaged until you pull the little plastic strip out and as such a battery/button cell should never leak as there is no chemical reaction without a complete circuit... which is why you find exploded batteries in old radios and not old unopened packages. guess it depends on how long your gonna store it and in what condition. If you have it sealed MIB then don't bother opening it just to pull a battery. If you however have played with it [and it is still unbroken] and your gonna put it back in it's box for the next decade, pull the battery and put it in a dime bag ziplock taped to the inside of the box... so you can still sell it as complete but if the battery goes nothing is harmed... just a dirty plastic bag reminds me I should check out my fokker as I got that one used and the guy I got it from has a habit of being less than intelligent at moments

a little "elmers" works as well as tape. Not sure what the clear glue they originally used was but it sure wasn't crazy glue I personally use "transfer papar, plotter style" as it comes in a roll and I can cut to fit damn near any size. I figured out a while back if I'm refurbing 1/55's, I might as well refurb the boxes when I can. That and it was my own dumb ass that busted the window of my 1/100 taka cf If you want to get really hinky use a tinted plastic to shield your toy from harmful uv light... sunglass window for your toys now if somebody would clue me on to how they make the really nice custom boxes... or even replacement styro inserts, I'd really be in business