MechTech

Kylwell - Nice cannon whatever they're going on??? Shiyao - The Dom looks good, but on the "Clean" side. If you do use a diorama, just make sure it's not "dirty." The Dom will not look like it is supposed to be there. Keep it up! - MT

Thanks Isamu. Hopefully I'll finish the mounting part this week. - MT

Not bad. Sounds good for "home brewed." Anything better than the original DYRL in English please! My tapes are dying - time to go with a new DVD now I guess. - MT

UPDATE 28 October 06 Here's the painted bracket and gluing on the deck that will hold the bracket. The deck will have several longitudnal ribs to strengthen it and a couple of high ones to support the hanging weight of the assembly (that's what will enable it to raise or lower). [attachmentid=37517] Painted bracket (heavy on the solder for strength). [attachmentid=37518] Fitting in the bracket (note one side is thicker than the other of the hull). The bracket is centered on the hull to keep the center of gravity balanced). Too late to fix the hull now ! [attachmentid=37519] Bracket sitting on pod showing how it will fit in the "UP" or "stowed" position. [attachmentid=37520] Gluing on the deck to hold the bracket (ribs will be glued on when it dries thoroughly). I'm getting there! I can almost taste the final coat of paint on the lower hull (I hope it's not lead based ). - MT

Another good place is www.modernplastics.com . They call it HIS (High Impact Styrene). .040 is the thinnest they have. That's where I've gotten all my stock (and a lot of it too ) - MT.

I haven't seen anything concrete, but it looks like they are around the same size as SDF's secondary weapon turrets. Then again, the Zentaedi destriyer looks like it has multiple sizes. How's that for a good answer? - MT

Congratulations! What a cute little bella too!

Hey Valkyrie, aren't you forgetting your tugger? You gotta finish it! - MT

At least it's not the usual stupid street "tagging." - MT

Looks great! I always loved the VF-2SS. I loved the model even more since the nose actually rectracted in one piece. The uparmored version looks cool too. Something I wouldn't want to meet down a dark alley.

Looks great! Just click on "browse" to find the picture on your drive, then "add this attachment button next to it. Then click on the "add into post button next to it." Make sure you put the cursor where you want it to go in your post. You can also paste it right into your thread, but I don't know how to do that. - MT

Drawing wise, it looks good enough to be original! (Despite that whole "sacrilage thing") - MT

Thanks guys! This thing is going TOOooooo slow for me, but family first. It looks like the lower hull will be done for December, but I'm hoping for more to be done before then. I just have to finish this assembly and it's down hill from there! - MT

UPDATE 23 October 06 I am still working on the finer engineering points of the motor mount and building it. The post you see sticking out of the motor box is just sitting there. It is not cut to size or mounted. The funny looking brass bracket is the actual motor mount that will support the motor box shaft. The bracket is not done yet or cleaned up yet. We're talking some serious soldering when I'm done. BUT it will be strong enough to support the several pounds the motor box weighs. Enough talk, here's the photos: [attachmentid=37394] Remember that the shaft is being cut down. The gear on the end will be engaged by another gear on the servo (heavy duty 1/5 scale car servo w/ brass gears). The threaded rod will raise or lower the height of the pod with a threaded handle. [attachmentid=37395] A closer shot showing the bracket (it's 6" across and feels like a paperweight). That it's for now. - MT

You know, if you look at either sculpt, Guld's got some SERIOUS eyebrows. They probably would keep the rain off his face! Not a crack on your sculpts, they're both great (even "lemon" Guld). I suck at sculpting people. - MT

They're great too! I still have to build mine. - MT

I looked at that and said, what? TOOooo much wing "stuff." In reality, if the wing roots did open up, it'd probably stall out and crash. Remember the P-3 the Chinese colided with? Only part of it's nose went and the pilot lost control over it. Wow, what if your wings did that? Canards are awesome (just ask the Swedes), but not like that... - MT

Ahh, an oldy but a goody. I liked these over the valks in that they would transform without removing parts. The only pain was that they would bow in the middle when the gear was extended in fighter mode. I still have one in parts. - MT

I don't say this to people often, but hey, "nice Daedalus." It looks like this person bridged the gap between me and and the art guys. They drew it in 3-D, got a 3-D engraver to machine out the parts from a block, and made resin copies. I guess the next question is, will he sell it as a kit? By the way, I hate those Babelfish type transalation engines. They make about as much sense as me speaking French or Finnish! If I had the money to get a 3-D engraver, that is what I would do with it! - MT

Yeah like Vinnie and Dave were saying. I've got some of the original Patlabor models that the rubber melted the styrene wherever it touched it. Stupid polymers! I think there's something to the chilli theory though... - MT

This is posted in the toys section, so at least I know(???) its not a model. At least that's some money I'm saving! - MT

Those old Robotech kits bring back good memories . The oldest I've got pictures for (and still have) are from 1997. I posted one of these for HWR when he asked about leg artwork on the 1/72 monster he was building (I stuck Shamu the killer whale on it). I scratch built this to go with all the other 1/100 kits I have. Now 1/200 is "the new" 1/100 for me due to space (and making it all fit into the Daedalus. Pardon the bad photos. [attachmentid=37316] [attachmentid=37317] [attachmentid=37318] [attachmentid=37319] The next oldest are from 1998-2004 in this thread: http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?...42&hl=vc-33 - MT

It almost sounds like the rubber is bleeding into the paint. If that's the case - sorry. You might be able to clear coat them (flat prefferably). If the rubber itself is the cause, then it's coming from the inside out and you're best off buying an aftermarket figure (bug EXO about it). I've had improperly cured resin do that. You clean it up, paint it, and watch your work melt away after the resin bleeds out days later - in a cold enviroment at that! Like eugimon suggested, make sure they're not in the sun - unless you like the color yellow . Hope that helps. - MT

Sorry, just had to say it - it looks like the mecha went to Mecha - MT

Don't ya know, clean kite fly better - There's one in every crowd. - MT