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Everything posted by MechTech
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Planning is great idea. I gave up on that though - it's called two children . I was blessed this weekend though to actually get some Daedalus build time in so I sympathize with you! Magnets are a great way to go! If you line them up right under a thinned area of plastic, you won't need ugly tabs to align your parts every time. I would recommend gloss paint in those area you use them though. Flat paint will show wear marks. Someone here recommended this place: http://www.kjmagnetics.com/ . I've used neodymium magnets for lots of stuff, I just bought mine a long time ago in store elsewhere. Several people have recommended putting them in the Daedalus so I'm doing that to hold mecha down to the deck. WM Cheng put them into his launch arm diorama build up too! Check it out in his builds. Have fun with your project! - MT
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The Spartans look awesome guys! Great work! - MT
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UPDATE 6 APRIL 08 Alright, first some updates, second an apology for my camera battery dying! I got two good shots. The first one is a motor controller (about two hours to build one night). I keep taking the leads from a battery pack and holding them up to completed assemblies and motors for testing. The problem is the wires keep breaking or I run out of hands to hold the whole thing together! One switch turns it on (LE blinking LED reminds me to turn it off, one switch temporarily engages power, and the one on the end switches polarity (forward/reverse). No more broken wires and I can observe the working of the whole thing better. Next I rebuilt two more servos like these: http://macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?show...8403&st=500 (middle of page, 11 Nov update). It is a small gearcase with an N-20 motor (coins for comparison) stuck in place of the motor (also N-20 size) into the servo. This slows it down and increases the torque significantly. Here's a picture for comparison. The stock unit has a 2.5mm output shaft on it. The modified unit has a machined down 1mm shaft for the gear popped of the servo motor to fit into. The gearcase corners are also filed to contour the motor so it fits snug into the servo. Tops are soldered back together. I finished the servos, the new ramp sections (yes, new) and the brass parts that will make it all go. The cool part is that I now have three identical servos driving the ramp - all segments will fold up at the same rate. Hopefully my next post will have video! - MT
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Great job! I love that mech too. Too bad it's not "canon." I think it looks like the next logical step in Valk "evolution." I like the way the model cockpit retracts too! If only the legs didn't have to come off. - MT
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Yeah, 007 is right. Mine is a two gallon and it could probably wake the dead (never tried it yet ). Seriously, mine is loud as are a lot of these types. If you can put it outside your closed window and run the airhose in that may not be too bad. Your neighbors will then probably hate your guts! If you're only doing a little non serious work these are alright. Most lower end units of the piston style are loud. Make sure it has a good pressure regulator on it and a moisture trap (or purchase one seperately). These are both musts. Quick disconnects for the hose make life a lot easier too. Have fun shopping! - MT
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I got over the "non-canoness" when I saw how cool the visor DOES look! Awesome cooperative job dudes! - MT
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Thanks for posting the How To's. We can never have enough of them! By the way, I love the custom decal work on the Tomahawk. I never saw your build up of it earlier. - MT
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The painting looks great and adds some size to them. You're right, I've got the 1/5000th and my little Nichimo has better detail! One suggestion if you don't mind, draw panel lines (light colored) around some of the light painted areas. It will clean up where the masking tape bled. I also agree about the weathering; more is less in this case. No paint chips visible on something this big! Keep up the good work! - MT
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Nice job! The urban neighborhood really throws it off in the photos . - MT
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They are great for pure black (clean anime style) lines. Just don't use them over some flat paints or clear coats, especially dull. I found out the hard way after going through two of them that the tips get permanently clogged and won't flow. Nope, solvents won't clear it out; it gets in the material. Use them before the clearcoat, but test to make sure it won't run (found that out the hard way too! - MT
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I'm still at work. I just got the servos in last week and I'm reworking the ramp. Both servos have been heavily modified like he first. I'll post pictures soon! - MT
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TTHE PROJECT IS DONE - 3 YEARS IN THE MAKING - PRO BUILD
MechTech replied to deadghost's topic in Model kits
Good things come to those who wait! Still over two years working on the Daedalus! Looks like you got your money's worth (hopefully). - MT -
As always, looking great! - MT
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Both tanks look great guys. Both have great touches on the finishes. - MT
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Looks great so far, keep on it! - MT
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Does this guy still have them? I found him looking for some other stuff. - MT
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That's an awesome idea! I just whish they were 1/200 like the new ones will be. I hope they make ALL the valks in the newer 1/200 collection for Yamato! - MT
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The standing figure does come with the model kit. If you don't buy one, you'll regret it! No polycaps, but good wholesome styrene goodness! Milia is proportionate to the toy, she should stand about as high as the top of the knee. I guess the whole toy is off!? - MT
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Need advice, tips on Hasegawa VF-0A/S Battroid kit
MechTech replied to Mr. Anderson's topic in Model kits
Both look great guys! - MT -
AcroRay is right. The sizes do vary in the show; that's why Kamjin can ride a monster. When the battle pods go on board the Daedalus, the Daedalus looks twice as big as what it should be. We all can name variances. After all, it's just an animated series - even if it's my all time favorite! - MT
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Sometimes the solution can be strong for the decal being used. Thin it with a little water (separate solution in a little cup). And what everyone else said too! I always put a puddle of water in the area and place the decal on top of it. I sponge out the water and no air usually gets inside as a result. The water also thins the solution some. Before all the water goes, I position it and give it a good press. If it's long, I use a rolling motion from one end to the other. Theposition holds and the water is driven out. Better success next time! Water slide decals are a pain sometimes! - MT
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Nausica, you are right; 1/60 should be 1/60. The Zentaedi, like us are different sized. Millia is female and shorter than a Zentraedi male, so there will be differences. Some manufacturers don't always get the scales right. All I really do is models and I see differences between manufacturers all the time. If you compare people to people, you're safer. I've seen differences between the Q-Rau in various line drawings. Those problems make scratch building a pain too! I don't have the toys (except a 1/60 VF-1s - I can't be ALL about models). Maybe someone here knows of an ongoing inconsistency... - MT
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I love the finish on there. I'm buying some alclad now! - MT
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The barrels don't taper, I'm not impressed. That sculpt has boxy fronts for the missiles too. Tapered, turned aluminum WITH rifling like the 1/25th models would be awesome (especially for us 1/200 scale owners). I've gotta build three. - MT
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Awesome work everybody. I stayed off line this weekend and look what I missed! The defender and background look great! Nice touch of "reality." - MT