MechTech

Sorry for the delay, every time I tried to get on MW the server was so slow it seemed to lock up. Baxojayz - I can still take orders, I don't even have the casting stuff on order yet Nuts! Ahiachris fugured out my serving tray trick! I'm still trying to work on a price, but here's the Crane Truck in progress: I started with a massive chunk of Evergreen #415 .250" x .750" (6.3mm x 19.0 mm) It's a HUGE strip of styrene in 2 foot long lengths. Then I machined it down making passes through my drill press with a Dremmel bit on it to keep the thickness uniform. Then I made several more passes through the drill press with various bits to shape the chassis as you see. I only used files and one glued insert to clean it up. The wheels were spares machined on a Dremmel then covered with Evergreen .020" thick V-Groove sheeting. I cut against the grain at 45 degrees to make the treads. I had to do this twice since the treads oppose each other. Progress photos on the main chassis parts. There is still a lot of work to do on this part: And what progress I have done on the cab section. It's not totally cannon because I put windshield wipers on it : That's it for now. It's taken a week to get this far. The cab is version 3 I tried to do thin window frames and make the cab hollow because I hate "fake glass", but it was too thin and would not have casted well. That's it for now - MT

That looks beautiful! It puts the styrene kits to shame!!! That really needs to cast. - MT

I don't even have a 1/48 scale model kit, but this is REALLY tempting! The details are great and the "respect" for the VF-1 long over due! - MT

UPDATE 31 JANUARY 2010 - ANOTHER Year I've taken a side trip and am pursuing another part of the Daedalus build for a short while, the stuff going inside of it that I still need for detailing the interior. The thread can be found here: http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=31945 I've put the vehicles in a separate thread because I'm selling extra castings for the vehicles. As soon as I complete the ground vehicles, it's back to the ship itself! Until then... - MT

Looking great EVERYONE! We need to keep this post alive with everything from old school pistons to nuclear turbines I've missed out on a few of these earlier thanks to access problems. - MT

Hey everyone. I'm back from vacation and will have to wait a couple weeks to to purchase molding supplies for the ground support vehicles. In the mean time, I'm building the crane truck and "jeep". I'll post pictures as I make progress. I'll probably be selling extras of those as well. Remember this all still counts as credit towards building the Daedalus - MT

Nice idea! Just add some paint and you'll be good to go! - MT

That does look cool. The white custom markings would be a pain! Then again, use white decal paper and print the black onto it... - MT

Oh yeah, grab ALL the sleep you can get! Those first few months can be rough - MT

Looking great! Keep us posted. - MT

I know this guy named AcroRay who's a glutton for punishment Seriously, I think it will turn out great. If you want to use solvent glue, you WILL have to sand down the edges to NAKED plastic (just tape/glue some sandpaper to a flat surface). It may be easier than scraping. Then clean the edges with isopropyl alcohol. In the old days they would take the sprues and put them into a tank and fling actual chrome plate onto them. Of course the chrome beaded the glue. If they've used the same technique, the chrome should have bonded well to the plastic and super glue will hold it all together. Just rough up the joints. Test some sprue to be sure. Chrome is what put me off car models for life If the super glue works, then just prep the surfaces with rubbing (isopropyl) alcohol. Chrome and superglue make great permanent fingerprints! If you take a chromed plastic surface that has a tint to it (usually gold plastic) or the green in your case, a solvent will take that off so be careful if you like the green tint. Testing on sprue is your friend in this case too. My hat off to you, chrome is a challenge, but looks great. Tamiya's chrome paint pens are a close match to cover up sprue marks on chrome. Have fun and keep us posted! The other option is strip it naked with Cola like was done before - MT

Thanks for the updates on this. I'm learning a lot about the "dream machine" I may have someday. - MT

To agree with Thom, it's pride of "ownership" if YOU make it! - MT

Thanks for sharing! I'm tempted to pull my kit out and try it. - MT

Sprue marks are an unfortunate part of life. Bandai has taken steps to make theirs easier to remove on some newer kits, but those are styrene. If your toy is made with ABS, that is even tougher to clean up. I have the 1/200 Nichimo Yamato Battleship. It is ALL ABS and a MAJOR pain to sand and clean up compared to styrene. If you have any spare accessory sprue pieces, heat up a section with a lighter and smell it. Petroleum smelling is styrene and kinda pine smelling is ABS. I use the edge of a steady flame (the blue part) and put it near the whitened area. It causes the plastic to flow back together and clear up the blemish (if only acne was that easy) That method takes some practice, patience and being VERY CAREFUL. Method two involves covering the blemishes with some "dirt" or oil marks (paint). I use this on transforming models since paint on them scratches off. Just my two cents. - MT

Just some props for EXO, I got a chance to see the real Party Set up close and they look great complete with the 80's "big hair" The soda amchine IS a classic! EXO, Brookhurst Hobbies had both the Fujimi Navy carrier ground crew sets and the Air Force ground crews as of last week (I made one last run up there). - MT

When I was a kid, we used to grow GIANT Zuccini (Aubergines) in our garden about a meter long. Lacquer one of those babies, add a few details and you'd be ready to go! And it's already green! Nice work again Captain! I would recommend you not say you were bored on this website. People will find all sorts of suggestions for new subjects Your sculpt looks a MILLION times better than the ole' styrene kits! - MT

Looking Great Micky! I'm playing catch-up on some threads. Your problem with gloss coats stands out. WM Cheng is right and I had the same problem. I learned to let gloss paint cure for at least a week or two if possible. Humidity will slow the cure rate down too. I've had to refinish models before and I learned my lesson. I also paint a spare piece of plastic with the same exact paint, I paint two models sort of. Then I can mess with the spare and know for sure when the final product is cured. Glad to see your nearly there! - MT

Thanks Olivers! I already have three sets! Maybe four would be good . - MT

I picked up a January Hobby Japan and the 1/48 YF-19 and VF-1 looks great with removable leg panels (on both). The Wave kits look like they should be out (I don't read Japanese) and the newer pictures of the Monster look huge even next to their 1/72nd Tomahawk. There is a whole section related to "Macross 2010" stuff. There were also interviews with trivial information. They had Kawamori sitting in fron of the 1/250th models and a display with some cuties displaying an anniversay sign. I should get the Feb edition, there's probably updates. The $48.00 I spent already on that and two other publiucations kept me from spending more. 2010 will be a good year for Macross fans! - MT

It just goes to show, ther's no school like the old school! The Imai kits were at the pinnacle of model engineering and still aren't shabby! - MT

Not to defend anyone, but I've ordered tons of stuff from HLJ and had it shipped to me all over the world. No damage at all and I was always amazed at their high tech packaging (compared to everyone else's "peanuts"). My only complaint about them is they're in Japan so shipping is costly, but that comes with the territory. - MT

Awesome set EXO! The vending machine is a nice touch!!! - MT

Looking good Jet. If you don't mind the input, I've got a few tips to help you out. It looks like your paint isn't covering well in the corners. I'd suggest washing the parts in dish soap and mildly warm water. The plastic molds are covered with a release compound (waxy substance) and the molded plastic has that on the outside. The paint (especially if it's water based) will bead up and glues are less effective. Also, don't be afraid to tackle the seams. If you put a good amount of glue on the seam where safe (solvent or super glue) the seam will be sealed with a bead of glue or dissolved plastic. Let it dry and sand it off. If the seam is really bad, that will need putty (another topic). You're doing great in the painting and decaling departments. A smooth seam will make life a lot easier on you. Yes, the sanding stinks, but it's the price yuo pay for a quality build. Keep up the good work and DON'T GET DISCOURAGED. Keep it a hobby and not a task or you'll get burned out. - MT

Welcome Ice Blue to MW. If you're using foam core, test the ends with whatever glue you are using. Like EXO said, solvent based glues are bad on thin plastic and will dissolve most foam cored materials weakening the material. Superglue is good but will still dissolve some foam cores. A good hobby shop will sell superglues that are foam safe or sealers for foam. I know Hobby People stock it. - MT