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GU-11

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Everything posted by GU-11

  1. It exists. I actually bought a bottle of it, thinking I could use it as a clear coat, until I was told otherwise.
  2. If there's one Iron Man suit I'd consider buying, it's the MK.XVII aka Heartbreaker. Apparently, it's the one Start uses to fight The Mandarin in the final battle, according to certain forum posts.
  3. I don't know what mecha this is, but I like it. Love the red sensors; very well done. @ erikos: Gorgeous Valk!
  4. @EXO: Many thanks for the heads-up! @David Hingtgen: I've allowed the parts to cure for at least 2 weeks. That should be long enough. Or is it? Also, how long does it take for FFP to fully cure? Yet another thing I forgot to ask (really need to type up a list before starting a new thread): I've heard that you can actually hand-brush FFP thansk to its self-leveling properties. Thing is, I also hear that if you add Tamiya's flat base to it to dull the finish, it messes with FFP and you might not get as smooth a finish as when you brush unmixed FFP. Is that true of just a rumor? My AB setup (Tamiya Spraywork Basic Compressor w/ AB set) isn't sufficient to airbrush FFP, as it's so thin that you need to dial down the air pressure and only do mist coats--and even then, there's a risk of getting runs and spider-webbing. My AB is a single-action one, and the compressor's air pressure stays at a constant 15 psi, and is NOT adjustable.
  5. Thanks MT and Valkyrie addict! Glad you guys explained everything. Google show up nothing despite days of searching. And thanks for the tips! I recently checked some flat white and flat dark gray I AB'ed, and was surprised to find that the flat white cured much stronger and tougher than the dark gray. Scraping at the white paint wore off my nails more than the paint. The dark gray, on the other hand.... Both are Tamiya acrylics and AB'ed the same day. Forgot to ask this the last time: Can I use Tamiya's clear gloss base for clear coating? I know their flat base isn't meant for use like that, but is their gloss base okay to AB as a clear coat?
  6. Guess you're right. Maybe I should clear coat the parts before painting them?
  7. Sim, sim, eu concordo. No, I don't speak Portuguese; just popped that into the Google translator. Hope that didn't come out weird.
  8. Sorry for starting two topics in a day, but I couldn't figure out how to edit the title in the earlier post to combine both questions. ...and if I did, it'd be a very long title. Anyways, this has been something of a riddle for me, although I've never bothered to find out until recently. General knowledge has it that you apply acrylics over enamels over lacquers, but never the other way around. Thing is, TS clear sprays are synthetic "acrylics lacquers" (whatever that means) which may or may not be safe for acrylics. Of course, I'd wait at least a week or even 2 weeks before applying the clear coat. Question is, is it even safe to do so? Tamiya's US site states that the sprays "are not affected by acrylic and enamel paints" which is common sense. But will the TS spray affect acrylics and enamel paints?
  9. I'm starting plans on detailing some engine parts, and the most convenient way I know is to extract paint from a Gundam marker and paint it on with a brush. Thing is, will the marker paint adversely affect the Tamiya acrylics? I thought of using Tamiya acrylics, but what with its notorious tendency to lift the underlying paint, I thought I'd use Gundam markers instead. I've read that some use enamels over Tamiya acrylics, but I don't think my local store stocks them. So, is it okay to use Gundam markers? Or, if the undercoat is fully cured, would it be safe to use acrylics over it for detailing work?
  10. Tin foil makes an excellent masking material for large areas. While you obviously still have to mask the edges, you can simply wrap tin foil around a large area you don't want to get paint on, instead of disassembling the whole figure. It's pliable but retains its shape, making it perfect for the job. It's also cheaper than Tamiya tape, saves time and effort, and doesn't leave any glue residue, not to mention that there's no risk of lifting the paint when you remove it. I've been using it during paint sessions for a FOC Jazz repaint; it was a great help, as unlike model kits, there are quite a few parts you just can't separate in a TF. Just fold in the edges so they don't scratch the newly-painted area when removing the foil.
  11. @derex: Looking good there! Can't wait to wait to see the finished diorama. Where's you get those parts, BTW?
  12. Thanks for the heads-up, Indigo! One question about gloss paints: how does the surface of a gloss coat "feel" when fully cured? It's been a month since I sprayed gloss red onto that plastic spoon, and it feels like the surface of a newly washed car. It's smooth but "sticky", and almost "squeaks" when you rub your finger against it. It shows all the signs of being fully cured; I attacked it with a fingernail, but despite my best efforts, I didn't put so much as a scratch on it. I'd let the spoon to cure inside a large plastic container (the kind some people use to make DIY spray booths), so the humidity shouldn't have gotten to it. And it's already been a month. BTW, the gun metal has fully cured is very hard and smooth to the touch--fingernails can't put a single scratch on it. The dark gray, though, still scratches off even after over 2 weeks. It seems as though the glossier paints dry harder and tougher than flat paints for some reason, although it might be that I haven't thoroughly washed the spoon, though.
  13. ...and, she's gynecologically accurate.
  14. Shelves are looking good there, Kicker! Still waiting for my HT Bane from the hobby store.
  15. Thanks MT for creating the thread, and Jefuemon and EXO for contributing! I know I'll be a frequent visitor to this thread. If only I'd seen this before painting up that engine part with the textured surface. Looked like ass when I AB'ed some Tamiya gun metal over it. The other engine part that had a smooth texture looked gorgeous. I'm trying to save it by coating it with some Tamiya smoke when after the paint's fully cured--hopefully the darker tone will give it a grungy but still metallic look. Either that or I'll just spray over it with a coat of German gray and dry brush it. Any advice?
  16. @ MT : BTW, can I do a chalk/pastel wash or spray Tamiya clear smoke on the engne parts I painted in gun metal even before it's completely cured?
  17. You mean the impaling thing? LOL! I think it's only during QTE failures. If she dies in combat, the screen just gets bloody and you see the enemy cheering and whooping.
  18. You know you've built a beautiful kit when people start downloading the pics for wallpapers...I know I did.
  19. Thanks for the info, MT! The humidity's been crazy these few weeks with the constant rain, sometimes reaching 100%. According to the weather forecast, at least--I don't own a hygrometer. While the humidity can't be helped during spraying since it's been raining every day, I only spray indoors and when the weather's the least humid. After that, I place the parts in my display room where the AC 's constantly switched on. While it's said that cold air actually slows the paint drying, the dessicants in the air should more than compensate for it. I've seen how my daily mug of coffee starts to evaporate if left for a while in that room, so the AC air is pretty dehydrating. I've been looking for a food dehydrator, but no such luck. I've heard that some people make their own "paint oven" using a cardboard box and a light bulb--maybe I'll give that a try. I'll take your advice and try painting some spoons for clear coat tests.
  20. That's such a massive improvement! That said, there's no way in hell I'll ever dare to put a knife to my YF-19, especially with the toy becoming increasingly rare.
  21. Meh. Saito look horrid. Seems like all the characters have beady eyes, except for Batou, the Major and Togusa. Music's so-so, but not nearly as good as Origa's "Rise", which would actually suit the theme of this anime a lot better. Need to get a better look at the Fuchikoma (just guessing, since it's red like the original ones in the manga).
  22. I mostly agree with what the others said. I'd be more interested in what happened to Raiden between MGS2 and 4, and how he rescued Sunny from the Patriots. That said, the story they went with holds its own, even if it is a pretty heavy diatribe on America's "war economy." Interesting how the draw similarities between real life situations and the MGS universe.
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