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Yamato 1/60 Fan Racer Resin Cast Finished


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Hi guys, I just finished my resin copy of the model kit of yamato fan racer 1/60. I share the finished work images. To show it, i adapt a connector of the bandai act 5 stage to be able to use it. I have a lot of work with the molds but I am very happy with the result.  I copy the original kit of yamato that was bought by a friend on ebay for 200 dollars, very expensive for me.




























Edited by EmilianoAlfaro
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I love the fan racer and it is very difficult to get today, especially the clear version that I understand is the only one that comes with the pilot. When my friend bought his kit on ebay do not hesitate for a second to try to make the copy. It is relatively easy to copy, few pieces and simple shapes.

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45 minutes ago, davidwhangchoi said:

all the modeling section here is nice.  i got the clear kit with the yamato angel birds. i need to commission  it to someone. amazing detail on the figure

I'll give you 20 fan racers for a vf-1d 30th anniversary hahahaha. Your collection is simply amazing

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49 minutes ago, arbit said:

Great casting clear parts!

I wish I could do as well.

Could you indicate the resin and mold material you used?

The resin is of a local brand in my country, but is known as "crystal resin" or "liquid glass". It is made of two components and is used with a ratio of 2 to 1. The best thing about this resin is that it has a very slow hardening (3 days for total hardening) which allows to remove all the bubbles before pouring it into the mold. The mold was made with silicon rubber (Oxancil 1720).

The glass of the cabin was molded like the rest of the pieces, submerged in the rubber and once hardened to extract the original piece I made a small cut with the cutter. Once the copy was done, the same was sanded with 1500/2000 sandpaper and the final finish was given with auto polishing paste. All the model was made with the same resin due to the good result that I got with the cabin.

My next project is to make the optional parts for the hi-metal R vfs. I plan to clone the shoulder blanket and adapt the pilot's seat like the yamato. I also plan to make my own pilots of TV version, since the originals are horrible.

I am now working on my vf-1j cannon fodder from hasegawa :)



Edited by EmilianoAlfaro
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14 minutes ago, arbit said:

Is this it by any chance?



It is not of the same brand, but apparently it is the same product or one very similar, the one I use also comes in 300ml presentation and also splits with two parts of "A" for one "B". I would prove it without a doubt if you can get it.

Another advantage of this resin vs. the traditional one is that by being transparent it can be perfectly appreciated the presence of bubbles inside to remove them or wait for them to rise to the surface of the mixture.

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I am amazed by how well the canopy in particular came out - I was sure you'd had to vacuform it or something.  Very good to know.  Been meaning to get into casting custom parts for years now and always afraid to take the plunge.  Slow setting resin sounds like the perfect way to get into this craft.  No pressure tanks or vacuum chambers to invest in right away, which makes it far cheaper to get into than having to purchase everything up front, only to find out what you make looks terrible or requires too much work to get it "right."

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1 hour ago, mickyg said:

Estoy sorprendido por lo bien que el dosel, en particular salió - Estaba seguro de que había que VACUFORM o algo. Muy bueno saberlo. Tenido la intención de entrar en la fundición de piezas personalizadas desde hace años y siempre con el miedo a dar el paso. resina de fraguado lento suena como la manera perfecta de entrar en este oficio. Ningún tanque de presión o cámaras de vacío para invertir en forma inmediata, lo que hace que sea mucho más barato para entrar en que tener que comprar todo por adelantado, sólo para descubrir que lo que hacen está fatal o requiere demasiado trabajo para conseguirlo "correcto".

Using this resin I have not had problems with the bubbles except in very small places, as for example the arms and legs of hikaru. I got several hikaru's without legs or arms due to the formation of a bubble inside during the dump. This can be solved by injecting the resin under pressure into the mold by means of a syringe. The vacuum pump is necessary for the rubber mold, I do not have one, but the results would be better using it. In the case of the cabin I first filled the container with the rubber and then immersed the piece, thus avoiding the formation of bubbles during the casting. The mold of the cabin was perfect, but it was only luck, perfectly it could have contained a bubble that would spoil all the work. There is a lot of trial and error in this procedure, you just have to get tested.

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