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MultiScale Factory Diorama Display Finished Parts


mslz22

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Just a note to let everyone know these are starting to ship, i do not think i need to make any instructions but here are a few pointers....

1.Make sure that you have a square on hand to make sure the back and side walls are glued up at 90 degrees/

2. I suggest painting the panels seperately before assembly

3. When assembling the gantry be sure that the 2 parts glue up to 90 degrees, they should but if there is any stray due to casting you can make small adjustments by sanding the joint before gluing.

4.If making more than 1 bay you can use some strip styrene to cover any joints if you do not want to fill the seam with putty, it's easier to use the stryrene and you can paint the strip then glue everything together.

5.If you want to use your wall panel extentions flat instead of angled you may want to sand the angled edge flat, you can also run the part thru on a table saw if you would like.

6.Have fun with it.......

Colors i used on mine, the base color is Walmart equipment grey primer, just about a buck at Walmart, Tamiya Dark Yellow, and Tamiya Haze Grey for the floor accents, both rattle cans.

Let me know if you need any help with the assembly...

thanks

mike

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Just a note to let everyone know these are starting to ship, i do not think i need to make any instructions but here are a few pointers....

Thank you so much Mike. That is all really helpful for me (a total noob). I really appreciate the pointers! I got Medium Sea Gray (RAF) for the floor, Light gun metal for the walls, gun metal for the door, and Camel Yellow for the Gantries. I also got a Weathering Master for the details (Orange Rust, Gun Metal, Silver). I think these colors should work out for me. I will be really happy though if mine turns out 1/2 as cool as yours! I will post my finished kit here (whenever that will be?).

Do you recommend that I wash the parts with Comet or Soap and Water before applying the primer layer?

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Do you recommend that I wash the parts with Comet or Soap and Water before applying the primer layer?

I do not use any mold release, only a bit of baby powder, I still reccomend washing the parts but you do not need to go crazy, light soap and make sure the parts are dry before painting. A good auto primer applied in light coats should give you a great surface to paint on.....

mike

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I do not use any mold release, only a bit of baby powder, I still reccomend washing the parts but you do not need to go crazy, light soap and make sure the parts are dry before painting. A good auto primer applied in light coats should give you a great surface to paint on.....

mike

Great. Thanks. I have some Tamyia Spray primer. I am guessing that will work fine. What is an auto primer?

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Gap filling superglue should be fine, the way i did it was to hold the back panel, sidepanel, and floor together with the help of a square. I then put a large drop of the medium gap filling superglue in the back (so it did not get on the paint) joint where the 3 meet. The capliary action of the glue carries it down the joint for a strong joint, you can then sneak a little where the floor and the back wall meet. If you are doing more than 1 set, use the technique above and build on once that has set up strong. For the wall extension glue the wall support part to the wall extension first, check the length as trimming may be needed, then glue the wall extension to the back and side wall.

thanks

mike

Should I use epoxy to glue the pieces together or will superglue work? Will they hold after painting?
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  • 3 weeks later...

Mslz22,

Thank you for the Macross Factory Diorama Kit. I just got it! I have opened it up and taken a look.

I am so happy to have it in my hands and will start preping soon.

I will post progress on this thread.

The parts look great and all the details look really bad ass.

Also, thanks for casting it in gray resin.

I am almost tempted to glue it together with no paint!

But I did buy a whole bunch of Tamiya rattle cans that I want to try out on this.

Thanks again. This is a great project.

BTW, how many casts do you have left on the mold? How many more orders could you accommodate? Just curious for now.

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I will post progress as soon as possible. I have taken some photos. I have cut some resin. I have sanded some stuff. And of course have made some mistakes that are easily fixable. I am so very excited about this project. I am hoping to have all my parts preped and ready to primer coat by Saturday. And again I could easily have just glued this thing together without much work and without painting and it would still look great. You will see when i post my prep pics on Sat. . .

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Thanks for sharing! That looks like an awesome set up. Man I got an ichin' to get some more styrene and resin work done. All the carbon fiber stuff is messy and just doesn't have the same satisfaction; no matter how high tech it is! - MT

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After seeing that panel combination I am still a little puzzled about the set up of the rotating ramp on the floor panel ..

On my observation a mecha should rest on it and be rotated for easier fix and/or inspection (specially if it is broken or disarmed). That meaning that the gantry should stay relatively close or surrounding this rotating platform.

I only purchased a wall and floor panel but if I place the wall panel (the set that contains the door) aligned with the rotating platform on the same adjacent side then the rotating platform ends right by the door which in my opinion looks like the wrong spot. Why would the sucker get through the door just to turn around..?

The only way I found to fix this is cutting the floor in half and turn the rotating platform around so stays adjacent to the wall where the door doesn't match. Thus having a more suitable place for the gantry.

I am not bashing about the built or the molding/creation quality here. I am just observing what i found something that to my opinion is not correct and found a solution in case someone else finds this and sees it my way.

This is left to anyone's build up interpretation...

Edited by 007-vf1
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After seeing that panel combination I am still a little puzzled about the set up of the rotating ramp on the floor panel ..

On my observation a mecha should rest on it and be rotated for easier fix and/or inspection (specially if it is broken or disarmed). That meaning that the gantry should stay relatively close or surrounding this rotating platform.

I only purchased a wall and floor panel but if I place the wall panel (the set that contains the door) aligned with the rotating platform on the same adjacent side then the rotating platform ends right by the door which in my opinion looks like the wrong spot. Why would the sucker get through the door just to turn around..?

The only way I found to fix this is cutting the floor in half and turn the rotating platform around so stays adjacent to the wall where the door doesn't match. Thus having a more suitable place for the gantry.

I am not bashing about the built or the molding/creation quality here. I am just observing what i found something that to my opinion is not correct and found a solution in case someone else finds this and sees it my way.

This is left to anyone's build up interpretation...

Sure, that is a good point. However if it was where it "should" be, just in front of and under the gantry, then you would not see that detail much when the valk is standing there, whereas the place where it is now the detail is visible (albeit not functionally making perfect sense). Personally this is a detail that I am not worried about. However I will be curious to see how your modification turns out with splitting the floor. Please do post pics when you do it.

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Thanks for sharing! That looks like an awesome set up. Man I got an ichin' to get some more styrene and resin work done. All the carbon fiber stuff is messy and just doesn't have the same satisfaction; no matter how high tech it is! - MT

Cool! I look forward to seeing your works.

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Hey Guys, sorry i have not been around in a couple of weeks, kids school vacation and my wife kept me busy every minute of it...anyway first off the last remaining orders are shipping between today and Wed. To answer a couple of the ?'s

1. These will still be available for a while, the molds are holding up fine....

2. As for the choice of where to put the rotating ramp, it was put there for a couple of reasons.....it was not meant to be an exclusive detail to gantry, in fact on mine i have a valk sitting on it in fighter mode and another valk standing behind it under the gantry. If you had a sidewall you can prop up the gantry on the sidewall and put a valk or mech under it on the ramp. Also keep in mind that this whole thing was built trying to keep in as nonspecific and versitile as possible, part of my reasoning was the people would want to display as many things on it as possible, getting the best "bang for your buck" i.e fitting mech whereever you can on the floor....

thanks

mike

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  • 3 months later...

Well, finally I have built this kit. It looks quite cool considering it is my first completed model kit. If I were to do this again I would not have used the gun metal greys for the walls but something more flat and I would have made the door more different in color than the walls. But I am still happy. I will post some pics now and then when I set it up with the valks in my collection I will post some more....

med_gallery_4840_92_139635.jpg

med_gallery_4840_92_920986.jpg

Edited by miriya
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Thanks! I think he still has some kits available. You should PM him. It actually works decently for the 1/48 in fighter mode but in battroid it is taller than the door. Works great for 1/60 (vf-1) though.

The kit was actually really easy to build and I think it looks great even without painting it.

Edited by miriya
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ohh nice....VF-1D and super ostrick, siiiiick, nice idea by just putting the canopy sorta 'slide back' hahaha...

very nice...that Nora is huge, and is that a little red milia in the corner? hahaha

Thanks. I love the way these two look together. Yeah, Nora is the biggest toy I have (I am pretty sure she is bigger than the SDF-1). And indeed it is a tiny little milia in the corner. It is one of those Super Deformed ones (A christmass gift from Misterryno).

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  • 3 months later...
  • 4 months later...

I think there may be a few of us interested in these kits now.

Anyone? Anyone? Bueller?

mslz22 had mentioned that he could start casting again in the spring. I bet that if enough of us show interest then we could get him to do a run of these.

Chime in if you are interested.

Mods, hope it's Ok to start a new thread, I don't want this getting lost in the other long thread, and this is to show off the finished product.

See below on for pics of a quick and dirty build with some Mecha in scales form 1/55-1/72. Panels can be assembled in a number of configurations, floor panels can be flipped either way, so can the sidewall panel, the wall extension panel can be installed flat or angled, gantry can be built with our without the extensions, this was made so you can pick and choose what you would like to do with it depending on what you want to display on it. You should expect some minor fitting depending on how you want to put the parts together. Decals are not included, the white lettering you see is vinyl letters from Michaels, $4.00 will get you more than you need. The shelf you see is a standard sized Lack shelf from Ikea approx 10 1/2x 42 inches, runs about $14.00 at Ikea and you could fit up to 3 full panels across. For Macross purposes i would say this is suitable for 1/55-1/72 scale, for Gundam etc, i am not sure but any Mecha that is in the 6"-12" tall ballpark should look good.

PM or email me at salzo1@aol.com with your order using the A,B,C,D for the panels or Gantry for the set, let me know how many of each you would like. Shipping is not included in the prices and final shipping will be determined by your location and the weight of your total order, i will email or PM you back a total price with shipping.

thanks

mike

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