PsYcHoDyNaMiX

Yea I sense a first batch of broken SV-51 to go with the first batch of broken VF-0S(s). I've pre-ordered one already, but just like my VF-0S that came from the first wave... the SV-51 is going to stay in the box. I'll just order spare parts if possible in the future when I order a second one with less QC probs. Eventually one of them is going to get modded. L.E.D. LIGHTS!!!! YOU HEAR THAT YAMATO!!! YOU NEED L.E.D.s!!!!! IN THE EYES!!!!!

I don't think yamato has the rights to the Macross 7 line. ***EDIT*** But yes... I would prefer the 22 over the 21 But alas... this is the only thing that I have that is a variable and comes closest to the 22... It's sitting in a box along with four or so more of its variable brethren from SHE. Oh yes... and thank you Graham/Shawn for sending me the scan, so many years ago (Mine didn't come with the coloring sheet).

Geez... That's nothing... If it were cracked open another three degrees then I would understand.

I'm pretty sure no one has tried that yet. But even if you were to use small washers wouldn't you have to mod both the washes or shave off a side of each washer; so the swing hinge has clearance? I would figure the washers would still require modifications because the screws are so close to the edge of the plastic U pieces (even if you were to use small washers). If the washers are so small then there might not be any point of using the washers at all. Also with the use of the washers and their thickness you would still have to mod/shave off the plastic around the area to gain clearance when transforming it into all three modes mainly fighter/gerwalk. Oh yea, you may want to post your fixes/results on this page: http://macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=21130

DARKWIND... If you mod it the way I have it in the picture it will not mess with the arm positioning in fighter mode, but if you decide to take the entire two (2) mm of material off then you may have to fidget with the arms a little when transforming it back into fighter mode. If you've already taken off all of the two (2) mm of material (like what I originally did) and don't want to bother with the fidgeting; no worries just go get some epoxy... apply and reshape as neccessary. ***EDIT*** Thanks for the comments guys!

That's some sweet work... -=]

Okay... First off credit goes to eugimon for putting the idea in my head (or that I stole). The rectangular peg on the shield that attaches to the right arm in fighter mode is about seven (7) and 1 1/2 mm in dimension. The shell port on the gun pod is about five (5) and just barely 1 1/2 mm in dimension. I took my Hasegawa Carving Knife U (http://www.hlj.com/product/HSGTT-17) and chiseled about two (2) mm off the rectangular peg on the shield via the top end of the shield. This can also be done with an exacto knife as well, but the plastic is abs and is quite strong. You can take the two (2) mm off the bottom end of the shield instead of the top. I chose to take it off the top because it allows the gunpod to sit more behind the shield. There maybe an arm positioning issue (in fighter mode) if you completely take off the two (2) mm off the rectangular peg. I did this at first but then realized I could've just taken off half because the entire rectangular peg would not fit into the gunpods shell port. I fixed that problem by adding some five (5) minute epoxy and molding it to the existing rectangular shape. I also took a file and thinned out the rectangular peg on the shield because I found it a bit difficult to get the right arm off when transforming it from fighter to gerwalk or battroid mode. This also helped with attaching the gunpod to the shield via the shell port (reducing any tension on the gunpod that may be produced from fitting). I also used the Hasegawa Carving Knife U to help with the landing gear issue instead of disassembling the leg. I tightened the hip by disassembling the grey fixtures that are attached to the ball joint and after cleaning the lower half I triple layered it in Future floor finish. As well as using the five (5) minute epoxy to try solving the wing over swing issue, but to no avail I would have to take that idea back to the drawing board. As for panel lines I used small paint brush and a mixture of Future floor finish, Tamiya Smoke (X-19), a little bit of Chaos Black (citadel), Tamiya thinner and just a little bit of water. Any excess paint around the panel lines was removed lightly and carefully with alcohol (in the pics I did not get to clean up all panel lines with the alcohol... WIP). ***EDIT*** I apologize for all the excess stuff that ended up in the shots. My space is quite limited and my room is completely cluttered.

Done... Credit goes to eugimon for the idea (in which I stole) Mods will be posted in the respected thread: http://macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?show...0&start=120 ***EDIT*** I apologize for all the excess stuff that ended up in the shots. My space is quite limited and my room is completely cluttered.

That's a nice idea eugimon. I may just try that out. I think I'll end up shaving the rectangular peg down on the shield. Since I find the two arms are kind of hard to separate when transforming it from fighter to gerwalk mode. ***EDIT*** Okay... I measured the rectangular peg on the shield and its about seven (7) and 1 1/2 mm big. The shell port is about five (5) and just barely 1 1/2 mm big.

Nice render. Looking forward to seeing the finished model.

Here you go... http://www.starshipmodeler.com/basics/lj_vinyl.htm Scroll somewhere near the bottom of the page. The author talks about priming and painting.

Nice... Look alot better than I thought.

Not in its own respectable thread... http://macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?show...22566&st=60

Yea. If you've dealt with them for that long the prior was probably not the case, since they're helping you with the parts.

Blah... I tried googling "HobbyWorld" and got a bunch of sites. Too many to choose from. Yea I agree with DND... I would always go with a reliable seller especially if I'm spending that much money.

WOWWY!!!!! IT'S NIICE~!!! (/borat). Woah... that goes to show you can either spend your time working to save up for a yamato VF-0S or you can go make your own out of a couple of hasegawa kits! lololol.

Damn that sucks... ychanus. who was the distributor you bought your product from? Maybe they did a swap or took parts out of your box?

I'm happy with my yamato products... so far. I've had no real issues where I can't play with them or transform them. My VF-0Shin is nice, so there's no problem there. My VF-0S had some excess glue on the head and some small stress marks on the shoulders, but that doesn't stop me from transforming him. I just loosen the shoulders and disassembled the thing, yanked on the head and scrapped away the excess glue... lol (yea it's not what some of you are thinking, even though it does!). I got spare head replacements parts (a couple sets of shoulders, heads) coming from HLJ. Yea I paid for them, but its only because I've had an extra VF-0S sitting in the box from BBTS and thought I should have the extra shoulders for future reference if I'm ever to open it! Hell when I get the spare heads in I'm going to take apart the one I currently have, fix it and maybe drop some LEDS or run up some fiber optic lighting and post a how to thread/reply here somewhere on the forums. I just paid for the parts like 15 minutes ago, so they should be here in about 2 or so weeks. I'm happy with my expensive Yamato toys. Toys are toys... they eventually break if you play with them too much. If they break right out of the box do what majority here would say: contact the distributor, then the company, if not then fix it yourself if you can. If you can't be successful on any of those then you're always going end up upset over it. If you don't want to be upset by any of it at all then stop playing with toys. I can guarantee you that you will be upset with something that you get or do in life. Me? I try fixing it instead of ranting about it and yea I may show a little disapproval/disappointment, but that won't stop me from trying to have fun with whatever I can get out of it. lol XD

Damn chimera15s! A little rough for my taste, but you got some nice work!

LOL... Yea I have that issue. Got it like two weeks ago, looked through it saw the picture of the VF-1A and it never occured to me... lol.

Congratz!!

Oh ... Really.....?

Damn those are some pretty nasty stress marks. Did your valk come in a nicely shipped box or was it crushed to hell (http://macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?s=&showtopic=22702&view=findpost&p=496158)? It looks like they mightve handled it poorly during assembly or maybe when they tried packing it into the plastic housing they ended up jamming it or smashing it in there. -=\ I've had a similar case with my 1st gen 1/60 YF-19, but mine was self inflicited because one of their workers decided to get glue happy (http://macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=21130&pid=495951&st=120entry495951). Hmm... I got one with the fast packs as well. I didn't open it, but I did check through the window of the box with a MAG flashlight and didn't notice any visble stress marks (like yours). -=\ Where did you get the 19 from (store, site, company)? I did notice something different about the FP 19. They did change (in that stress area you have highlighted) they decreased the corner into more of a curve where the fuselage splits. -=X

You should skim/read the whole thread (not just the first page) because it actually pertains to the YF-19 entirely. The thread contains the replies, links and fixes/modifications for more than just the gunpod.

Modification/Fix thread: http://macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=21130