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Yea... it looks 'fine', but not $300 fine. Currently for some reason it reminds me of a helmetless Robocop: ***EDIT*** Sorry forgot to add... 'plenty of fivehead (forehead+1)', maybe sixhead depending how much you add to the math, lol.

Okay... I apologize for using Kurisama, Rejavi, and GGemini's pics, but for good reference and cause. I agree that the VF-17D's head looks a bit weird... Yamato could at least follow some of the relative line art aspects. Such as the areas marked in their respective colors. Green: this piece should be one and not two separate pieces. I know Yamato's current method makes the engineering/assembly process easier, but at least they can taper down the top of the sides on the green section. Not where it currently stands on their wonderfestival display. It shouldn't go above the head turret base. Blue: Possibly the revised shape of the top (gray) part of the head. In conjunction with the magenta section. Magenta: I feel that the top (gray) part of the head shouldn't extend all the way out to the back edge. Close, but not exact. Refer to the line art for a better idea. Red: Agreeing with everyone else here... the sensor should be transparent, at least not something so bright, or even a bit smaller. The visor should be taller... extended in the vertical directions. Teal: Yes, the lines should be re-positioned. And yes... the illustration sucks (it looks more like a clown than ever!). I'm still new at using a wacom tablet. The pic is just for a general idea of how much more accurate the head can be to the line art using the actual reference points which feature the VF-17S' icon head.

The color match will always be off when comparing plastic to painted parts. However, Yamato's color matching is far better than Bandai's... lol. *EDIT* The color is a tiny bit off for the Blazer valk as well. But barely noticeable unless you're seriously gawking at it.

Sorry I know this isn't macross related, but I just share. Nothing special here... I just wanted to psych myself up with a nice Gundam kit before building the Sinanju and the FA Unicorn. I didn't want to start working on a kit that I didn't like as much and end up not finishing, but I began to feel that way when working on this kit because of the issues I encountered. However, while working on the MG Unicorn OVA kit I encountered plenty of key points which I need to remember when attempting future projects. I've used the following for painting the Unicorn OVA kit: If anything is not noted 'Spray' then it was airbrushed at 17psi. Outer: Krylon Fusion Flat White Spray Tamiya Pearl White (TS-45) Spray Booster pack/Feet: A 4:1 mix ratio of: Testor's MM Arctic Blue Metallic (2702), Testor's MM Stop Light Red Metallic (2724) Inner Frame: Krylon Fusion Flat Black Spray Testor's MM Graphite Metallic (2717) Psycho Frame: Tamiya Clear Red (X-27) Weapons: Mix of: Testor's MM Navy Gloss Gray FS16081 (1791), Testor's MM Graphite Metallic (2717), Testor's MM Black Metallic (2713) Sorry I can't recall the ratio... I just mixed until I found something appealing, lol. Ammo/Energy Packs: Mix of: Testor's MM Artic Blue Metallic (2702), Testor's MM Navy Gloss Gray FS16081 (1791), and maybe some Testor's MM Black Metallic (2713) Sorry I can't recall the ratio... I just mixed until I found something appealing, lol. Thrusters: Alclad Gloss Black Alclad II Chrome I'm still learning how to chrome with Alclad. Things which still need to be done: Order some water based decals/rub on decals. The set I used actually came off while I was working on other parts... that was really discouraging. Thus the main reason why this project is still a WIP, lol. More panel lining and then a top coat (because morphing/transforming the kit requires some handling). Issues which I've encountered that I need to remember for future projects: * Wash all parts before cutting. * Use better files. The set I used for this project were pretty skewed (not straight) and really did a horrible job by doing more damage rather than taking down the nubs. I practically became discouraged with using the files and thus ended up with the crappy nub removal job you see in the pics. I actually had some nice Tamiya files which I completely forgot I had, so I will be using those for future projects. * Using acetone for the white/outer parts was pretty effective because it was faster than sanding each part down with 1200 grit, but sanding would probably achieve a better finish. This worked with the weapons, energy packs, booster pack/feet. However, I did the dumb thing of using the acetone for the energy packs while connecting all 16 of them together... only to find out that they were all stuck together because the excess acetone that seeped between the pieces fused them together, lol. * DO NOT USE ACETONE FOR THE INNER FRAME! I tested this out on the tree for the inner frame parts and for some odd reason the acetone actually had the reverse effect than desired. The acetone ended up giving the inner frame parts a glossy finish instead of dulling out the surface (like the white/outer parts). * Settle on a base color before re-priming parts, or sand them down. I ended up priming the blue pieces with Krylon Fusion Flat Black, then used Krylon Fusion Flat White because I found out that the Blue/Red mix resulted in a brighter finish than using Flat Black. However, because I primed it twice there was a heavy layer of paint which ended up with a slight orange peel effect. * I have to build kits in a proper order: wash, cut, putty/sand, rinse/wash, prime, paint, panel line, decal, topcoat, and then handle. In this project I did everything in a forward/backwards order * Because of what I've been reading here on gundam-eclipse forums about paint sets I must start a collection of Mr. Color paints/Plamo colors enamels/laquers. I believe I'm done using Acrylics and Testor! Their finishes damage too easily. Unfortunately I'm still learning how to use a DSLR, so the Pearl White nor any of the other colors didn't really turn out too well. The Blue for the Booster pack/Feet actually looks more purple-ish in person.

I thought Graham verified that it will be a completed toy: http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=36074&view=findpost&p=947133

Really...? Are the VF-25F and S being released with their fast packs as bundles? Sorry I can't read Japanese, lol.

I was wondering the same thing two weeks ago and did a search. Here you go Reivaj: http://archive-scans.blogspot.com/2011/11/variable-fighter-master-file-vf-19.html

Wow... Gamlin is looking pretty detailed.

Why switch to 1/72 scale? 1/72 Yamato valks will still go for $200 with the way the market is going, lol.

M7 Dynamite Episode Three I believe. It was the teal VF-17D (a non-DForce variant). http://macross2.net/m3/macross7/variant-vf-17d-teal.htm

Nice MacrossJunkie! Yea I understand your standpoint with gundam markers. I tend to usually go with the mixture of future and black. The reason why I asked was because of the shallowness of certain sections on the 19 (especially the 19's left side of the jet shield, fuselage hump/on top of the battroid's uniboob). I maybe tempted to pull out an engraver just to define the details a little more. I also noticed the white was a little toned down.

http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=35121&view=findpost&p=944214 MacrossJunkie used the VF-19 Master File book for his reference...

MacrossJunkie... WOW, just WOW! Way too awesome! Which route did you go with for the panel lines? Future with a black mix, Gundam markers, black oil based paint, etc.?

Good one! My mind came to a blank when I tried to think of what it was, thanks!

Not true... I believe the 1/72 YF-19 was glossy-ish. Uh... what's 'Banamoto'? Google returned some ambiguous results, lol. Yes... I agree with anime52k8!

Awesome... he finally got the battroid pics up!

Do you think Yamato will finally make the YF-19 in it's gloss/shiny finish just like the ova? http://ghostlightning.files.wordpress.com/2009/03/macross-plus-isamu-yf-19-love.jpg

Aw man... How I love this valk's colors and proportions! I have to keep telling myself 'must not focus on the wings...'.

Thanks MacrossJunkie! I should update the pics for the VF-22S heat shield since I have access to a DSLR now (the old pics were taken with a point & shoot).

Argh! For my favorite Yamato I can't decide atm between the VF-19S or the VF-22S... However, out of the Bandais I would have to say my YF-29 (sorry didn't take pics of this).

@ Raptormesh: I agree with you there. However, it was also Yamato's fault for extra stock of VF-22S from re-releasing them after the initial for 1k of each (Gamilin, Max, Milia).

Gamlin was one of the better characters in the Macross series. Sorry to go off topic, but... The reason Gamlin didn't get a VF-19S is because Miria/Milia had other plans for him. When Emerald Force was created Diamond force (VF-17 variants) was reassigned to protect City 7 under the jurisdiction of the Mayor (supposingly from a non military standpoint). Relatively speaking kind of like the army and your neighborhood cops. This standpoint was re-enforced when Docker and Gamlin argued over whose jurisdiction Sound Force fell under when Basara and Milenna went out for an unauthorized joy ride (sorry I don't remember the episode nubmer, lol). My following p.o.v. is just pure speculation, but I think Gamlin got a VF-22S and not a VF-19S was because there's that possibility that a VF-22S takes more skill to pilot since originally it was modeled off the YF-21 (mind-controlled). Therefore re-enforcing the idea Gamlin was a pretty 1337 pilot... pretty much on the same level as Max and Milia.

@ frogze: The dent's are there, but they're fairly tiny because by the time I took the pics I already attempted to smooth them back out by running my nail over it (one of them is on the third control edge from the wingtip). I haven't transformed the VF-19S back to fighter mode yet, but from what I recall there wasn't really an issue with the wings connecting to the tail. If there was it wasn't that much of an issue where it would've irked me unlike the thinness of the wings. @ Chronocidal: Yup your pictures are way better and clearly depict what I am experiencing. I just felt that Yamato could have engineered the wing edges to be about one (or even half a) mm thicker and this would have solved the issue.

I hope my phone's camera can capture the wings well enough. If not then I'll just take pics with the DSLR and add them later. I just thought that Yamato would've foreseen some of the production mishaps (possibly due to scale) with making the wings too line are accurate. I wouldn't say the wings are detrimental enough to the VF-19S to detour anyone from getting it. Yamato's rendition of the VF-19S is awesome! I just wonder how the wings are on the VF-19Kai (since I don't have this one yet).

Excellent review VF5SS! I have to agree with Chronocidal about the wings being too thin. My 19 seems to suffer from the same engineering issue (scalloped wings around the control edges and transparent edges especially with any white/bright background). I don't think the molds are clasped together too tightly, but the CADs for the wings were extremely accurate (perhaps too accurate). Just some words of advice... don't let anything tip, tap, nick, press or even lean up against the wing edges... they will easily dent/bend. I already have a small two small nicks on mine.