kkx

I was hesitance and missed the first markup at NY. Now my order is from eBay. Have zero assurance compared to NY. NY seems to come through (from what I read here), even if they are a bit slow sometimes.

That will be sweet. That is one of the scenes that sticks in my mind. I have lost track, did you manage to secure a 1S?

@Ignacio Ocamica It will be a long wait till the DX 1S arrive. Do you plan to grab a Max on release date? I am hoping to find one around 22K yen.

Thanks. Nice to be able to fit both 1 and 2 seaters. Ok, will wait for the new version then.

If your hand is as unsteady as mine, using masking tape while hand brushing to fix the small problem will also work.

Sorry if this had been covered earlier in the thread. I am trying to decide if I should get one or two of the current version that is still in stock and get less of the new version. Or wait for the new version before I decide. What are the key differences between the two that is not apparent to just comparing photos?

I am displaying my VF-1J in fighter mode since I get the missile set. Now I miss the batt mode, I need another one just for that mode. Wish I grabbed one more before the price hike. Will sedate my craving with the Yammie version.

I am not buying a VF-25! I am not buying a VF-25! I am not buying a VF-25! (i have to keep repeating this to myself) They look really nice.

Most likely. I wish there is a liquid bottle that we can buy and spray on.

I was told the costlier 3M version is thinner. Not sure by how much. The one I have is thicker than paper. I will need to measure it to be sure, but it seems like about 0.1mm. Not sure what Yamato use in their canopy, but from photo online of those that disintegrated, they look to be super thin. Like, cling film thin.

I have the woodland camo, feel like it is a waste to hide the came behind a gbp. So I end up displaying the woodland walk on its own and use a CF-1A inside the woodland gbp.

Yup. I hope someone here got it. I was in a meeting and was not able to focus on bidding. And I also have less than realistic appreciation of how rare it is and how much of a steal it would be.

I did try one of these. Not sure if they are all the same/similar. The one I have tried is the cheap version mean for car headlight. the effect is ok, not as good as the "original". But the big problem is to get the thick film to conform to the curve of the canopy. I have given up for now, but plan to come back to this with a vacuum forming rig. If I head he film enough, might be able to vacuum form it to a mold copied from the canopy (or risk using an actual canopy).

There was one the I missed on eBay a few days ago. Went for just under USD$140. And it's only missing the neck filler/locking piece. I was upset that I missed that, will have to wait patiently and buy a lottery ticket meanwhile.

Yes, mine is the Yamato. The Arcadia version is a bit out of my reach for now. That explained it. It is a beige color. The condition is decent. Hopefully, some panel lining will improve the looks a bit.

Yours is definitely whiter than mine. But your DX is also slightly whiter than my DX (but less than the VF-0S). Can't be sure with my indoor lighting. Will double check tomorrow in day light.

Nicely done. Thanks for sharing.

@dafob Excellent. I am itching to do some custom too. Need to be less lazy. Do you airbrush? Do you need to take the valk apart or just masking?

Thanks. I am definitely glad I have this in my collection. Need a bit of panel lining to make it pop. Lolicon's version is just insane, will never match that, but will live to try to make my copy looks less plain. Is yours as yellow as mine? Wonder if it is just the white balance of the camera. Will need to compare this to my other valk in daylight tomorrow.

I am new to the v2 too. Maybe others with more experience can chime in. So far, I have 5 V2 1/60 that have cracked (two of them totally broken) shoulder hinge. This is what I get by buying used v2 1/60. I have repaired them all. I also have the shape way replacement but found the original (after repair) works better. From all these examples, base on what I have observed, the cause for the breakage is not caused by the bump. The knurl on the pin is the main cause. If you sand down the pin, then the hinge should be ok. The only benefit of shaving the bump is to reduce stress on a cracked hinge. Then I would rather repair the hinge and make it stronger. All my repair works really well. So I personally don't see any merit in shaving. As I said, I am new, so let's wait for other advise and get more wisdom on this.

Be careful if you do try the shave the bump. It is what holding the shoulder in place and not dropping down when in Battroid mode.

@jenius thanks for the video. Even having all of the items reviewed with me, I still learn a lot from your comparison and detailed analysis.

@tekering Awesome photos. I am saving for future inspiration. Thanks for sharing.

Saw @Lolicon's photo above (also thanks to @jenius advise on anymoon.com, I go for the correct version), and my resolve to not getting into the macross zero line was weakened to the point that I now have this:

congrat @vlenhoff Nice pair of max and milia. Nice to have both the 1/48 and 1/60 version. I am missing the 1/48 max.