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MechTech

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Everything posted by MechTech

  1. Myersjessee, you can get white decal paper (MicroMart.com) which of course won't work for all things, but with a sharp pair of scissors and some time...
  2. Yeah, Major Jonathan is right. It is like Fine Scale Modeler only better. Maybe that's one reason I didn't renew my subscription yet.
  3. Yeah, that picture about sums it up too! Now in days, stores don't stock items like they used to. They keep smaller quantities on hand so they have smaller investments. I bought out a comic books store's supply of 1/100th Regaults, 1/200th "Testors" kits, and several 1/72nd Mospeada kits about 15 years ago. He bought too many, couldn't sell them, and had to slash prices! Worked out great for me though! As to why collect so many kits... My excuse is the 6 foot Daedalus model I'm building. I gotta have something to put in it! Plus, you can always sell off or barter for a kit you could really use! I kinda go with "scale themes" so it's easy to find accessories for them. Like getting ground support equipment or support aircraft. Having a model kit is having a part something "cool." Whether you like a show, or the shape of an actual aircraft. I attended an airshow in honor of the RAF Spitfire's 60th anniversary (that was awesome). I bought a Hasegawa Spitfire (best I could think of) and got several veteran pilots (yes, they were very old) to sign the box with their squadron designations. I also kept the ticket stub with the date and all. Now I have a piece of history and memories of a awesome day out! How's that for "deep" and psychological?
  4. So like, where is the ARMD-1? This looks real enough; like you stole it off the ARMD-1! Next thing you know a bunch of giant space aliens are gonna show up wanting a fight...lol!
  5. It looks great so far. I won't tell anyone about the magnets sticking out slightly if you don't!
  6. I need to get my wife to read this thread! That way she knows I'm not the only "nut" out there with tons of kits. I've got soooo many kits, I just stuck them all in containers. Most are 1/100 or 1/200 so it's easy to get about 30 kits in one container. You guys make me feel better about the "hord" of kits I have collected! Here's to group therapy!
  7. It looks great for a first attempt. You caught your blemishes. You learn more from screwing up I think anyhow. One suggestion, work on your paint thinning AND mixing. The lumps in the paint are usually from one or the other. Don't be afraid to practice on some sprue or smooth card stock. If you get your mixture and spray right, it will look like you haven't painted at all (it will also make your scratches and blemishes stand out too)! Keep it up!
  8. The Tomcat looks great! Good weathering (not overdone) and smooooth paint. It's easy to spoil the look with lumps. It's hard to tell the size/scale except for your text and fingers in the photo. Stick that puppy under glass or in a curio!
  9. Looks good so far. Just chalk up the engine bell break to battle Damage. Those cheap Zentraeidi Pliars! I'm glad two sets of magnets were strong enough on their own.
  10. You could still have the best of both worlds. I don't have a supplier on the internet (yet), but your best bet is to use some micro (1mm) brass screws and nuts. I've used these on access panels and and micro R/C model assembly. All the hold, almost invisible! I would also recommend magnet to magnet too by the way. I use the same technique for uniform items - no pin marks in the cloth that way, and you can slide it around on the clothing. Also, magnet to magnet lines up perfect every time! Let the laws of physics do all the work! Just watch your polarity in the final assembly.
  11. I used to have that, and I too thought it was great. The details were awesome and the only problem I had was some warping (hot water fixed that). I'll have to speak with my "financial advisor." I already bought over a couple hundred bucks of model stuff last month, and I'm still waiting for some of it to come in the mail!
  12. Looks like you could hop in and take a ride (if you could get past the guards)!
  13. Looks great so far. That would look great if you installed some floor lights shining up on the valk. Don't let all the tie downs get you down. I did a tiny flight deck on a destroyer once and it took me a week worth of work!
  14. I know, were'nt they in the "cannibals" scene from "Toy Story?"
  15. I use the automotive stuff too. IF it has that special fan spray tip (different looking nozzle) it works great. Great price and doesn't hide details. I use it on ships especially since I don'y have to worry about water/chlorine affecting it later.
  16. Hasegawa and Preiser are the only kits I know of on the market that make such things. Yes you will have to buy the other figures in the kits, but hey, someone's gotta maintain the planes - right?! The only commonly available valk kits on the market (other than resin) are the 1/100th and 1/72nd valks. Bandai now molds and distributes them. Just google it with something like "variable valkyrie kit." While we're at it check out this thread for flying base ideas: http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?...pic=15736&st=80 Hope that helps!
  17. FIRST, be sure to CAREFULLY wash the parts in a water and mild detergent solution. Use a container or cover the sink drain so you don't lose anything! The plastic molders use a wax that retards glue adhesion. The detergent washes it off. If you're afraid of being a total failure with gooping and getting glue laiden finger prints everywhere, CLAMP the parts together as they should go and THEN let the thin "welding" cement flow into the seams (use sparingly- a little goes a long way). Rubber bands AROUND parts will guide the glue wherever they touch IF you use too much. Plus you can ensure the parts are positioned just right BEFORE you commit to gluing (you can also sand the joints with FINE sandpaper on a flat surface where possible to assist adhesion and stop large seams.) Check the joints and fit because some models will have molded marks leftover on them. These stick up and make large seams or gaps. Don't assume your parts are "good to go" from the factory. Many will be sitting here nodding their heads going "preach it brother." If you are not sure, practice on sprue tree parts. File some sprue (plastic parts runners) flat in areas and apply the glue. Get used to the set times and pressures needed to make your brand(s) work properly and be familiar to you. I personally use both thick and thin glues. I use the thick glue for the smaller parts, or ones that are difficult to clamp. Use white glue for the windshields and clear parts if you like - it's water soluble! ;-) Like any art, it's going to take some getting used to and practice.
  18. I just moved from South Georgia and had the same problem. I usually watched the Weather Channel and shelved my stuff untill the blasted humidity went down. I read one guy in Fine Scale Modeler put his stuff in a dehydrator (like for drying fruits and making jerky). It sounds like it would work...
  19. The best thing to do is use an LED and with that you can use tiny batteries. I've stuck stuff inside tiny areas the size of a quarter before. Make sure you wrap your light source with foil to keep stray light from shining through the plastic!
  20. Big and beautiful! If only I had the room. I scratchbuilt one in 1/100th scale to go with my Imai/Arii/Bandai kits and it is TOO big to display, let alone in 1/72nd! 1/100th was just a phase... I love the small space 1/200 uses, but I'm a 1/72nd scaler at heart since 1st grade! Keep up the great work! - MT
  21. You made me get my macro lens out again! Does this help? PM me if you need more. - MT
  22. That photo is monotoned except for the shading effects. I don't remember where I got these but... Hope this helps. I'm thinking the main colors are battleship gray (light), Realm gray (dark) and tan/radome tan "feet."
  23. Thank you for the compliment. I built the painted ones around two or three years ago. The resin one is recent. I've done several non-Macross models in the mean time (Scratch built destroyer and Battleship Yamato (IJN) models parts. All plastic (except for the wooden box). I cheated on the VC-27. The intakes and wheels are resin castings. I also used Milliput to form the nose.
  24. I'm moving in September. I'm rushing to get the Daedalus laser cuts done within the next week. So far I've got the bridge and side parts done. Ramp parts are getting started tonight.
  25. I will very seriously consider making 1/72nd kits - after I move. Being a proffesional modeler would be my dream job. I know what it's like to try and find something you want, and can't get it. The resurgence in Macross products has been awesome! I was able to get stuff I couldn't find or afford before.
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