MechTech

Alright, I'll let you in on a little secret, get closer to the monitor, PlayDoh. I take my 1.5 and 4 year old children and seat them next to me on a seperate table with it and their PlayDoh tools. We all get to have fun and make something. I occasionally make sure they are not eating it (yuck!) and check to make sure everyone is playing nicely. On the weekends, its nap time that gives me about an hour or two and when they go down to bed. With all the potential "weapons" on my work bench I have had to take lots of precautions including locks on all my drawers and tablesaw. Remember - PlayDoh. It'll help you get your models done and give you time with your children! After I posted, I saw your post SDF-1. All you need is a good brusless blower (blower because they compress the air a little as opposed to a fan) and a box. I made one once out of thick 1cm cardboard box and some fans in a row. I'm making one again soon. Until then, I use a respirator and spray outside then quickly bring my work in and stick it in a larger sized closet. You can use a dryer hose and run it a couple of meters to a window with a board stuck in it with a hole for the boot. It's basic, but inexpensive! Money on a booth or money on the models, hmmmmm?

O.K., I don't know the name of it, but almost every major store carries it, Wallyworld, Advanced Auto parts and the like. Look for a can with a fan-spray nozzle. You'll know 'cause it doesn't have the "kite" on top of it AND there is a split near the top where you can see a thin metal rod going downward. That stuff sprays on very fine. I've even let it run and it smooths out! Ask around before the store employees ask why you're ripping the top off all the cans! Hope that helps!

I thought of going crazy and actually making the "guts" for one. Your idea sounds good though. You can use super glue for a clear filler, BUT clean all around with Isopropyl or something to get all oils and fingerprints off. I've forgotten to do that and it looks like CSI crime scene evidence! Maybe you could "paint it" using transparent colors for the whole transparent "thang? "

Hey DatterBoy, looks like you managed to salvage your paint job. It looks great with markings. The personal touch is way more fun than just gettin' it outa da box!

Hobby Link Japan sells a great number of parts by "Wave." www.hlj.com Look under the brand "wave." They make some awesome stuff!

Pinko's should work. Laserjet transfers can be a little more delicate, just be sure to coat them BEFORE bending or touching. I believe it's Solvaset that makes a clear decal coating for making your own or repairing decals; that stuff's the bomb! I coat my decals with it after the Krylon and it makes them more durable. I would reccomend giving it a shot. You'll never know until you try.

With Hasagawa you never know. I've got several of their "conventional" kits and they re-release and even re-tool the mold and re-release. One thing I've learned, if you can find it now, buy it now or regret it later!

Pasted from a couple of threads down... I know you DID NOT want water transfer decals, but keep in mind you can do laser jet or inkjet really cheap at your local printers ( I did mine when I was back in the UK years ago before I had a good inkjet printer). The same will go for whatever "dry" decal paper you decide to use. All you will need is a diskette or thumb drive to transfer your work to the printers to do up. Give it a shot. For those wanting to try water slide decals, laser jet or ink jet, try: http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?M...roduct&ID=81490 In short, draw or paste your artwork onto your illustrating program and print it onto decal paper (inkjet or laserjet). There are severall suppliers, Micro Mark is only one that's been reliable for me. Like I said above, you can even have a print shop print for you. The only limitation is white lettering or marks that are small. As you'll see, the paper comes in white or clear so there are some limitations. Anastazi can print white onto his sheets. Like I said, give it a shot and try it. I've made severall sheets up myself and it only takes a little practice.

Hey TSP, That's exactly what I've been doin.' Working On my workbench. I've had to put everything down and spend some bucks on it. I took my awesome little Microlux 11" x11" tablesaw and sunk it into a butcher's block table for more work space. I'm ripping a bunch of sheet parts for a 6 foot Daedalus model and had no place to do it (neccesity is the mother of invention they say). I then had to build a new rip fence for that. I also got a 10" disc sander as my birthday/Christmas present. Then I had to fix the folding front end of my work bench because it got warped a little with age. I also built a small hand pinvise drill for more accurate cutting of those small parts. My workbench has been on my workbench I guess you could say. Now I can get back to plastics, it's Daedalus time! I ripped some sheet parts just yesterday. Take a step back and see what you can do. I bought all of my stuff in bits over the years. I'm using cheap ole' plastic drawers to the side of my workbech, but they work great! Get a cheap table of any kind to work on to "expand" your area.

Yep. When I heard that the Valks were in 1/55th I thought, "what the heck is that! Nothing else is in 1/55th! No accessories no nuthin'!" Like 1/60th is much better, but at least Yamato is making more than just Valks in it.

Respirator, that's my next "tool" purchase. O.K., that picture of Frank Zappa in Captain Garb is like totally freeky!

QUICK! Put a pipe in his mouth so he doesn't look like Frank anymore! Pipe before chin! looks great so far. A word of caution, use a face mask when sanding the Milliput. I've been using that stuff for over a decade and just found out about the dangers of cured epoxy dust. The longer you use, the more "sensitized" you get. I still use Milliput though. I'm gonna need a lot soon for a big project! Chin up(bad puhn)

I know you DID NOT want water transfer decals, but keep in mind you can do laser jet or inkjet really cheap at your local printers ( I did mine when I was back in the UK years ago before I had a good inkjet printer). The same will go for whatever "dry" decal paper you decide to use. All you will need is a diskette or thumb drive to transfer your work to the printers to do up. Give it a shot. For those wanting to try water slide decals, laser jet or ink jet, try: http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?M...roduct&ID=81490

They are nice kits. They're not as nice as the original VF-1 transformable series (1/72), but really close. The new VF'sa are more complicated in transformation; that's all. I have both kits and have built one of them. Like Graham said, a little glue at the right spots helps a lot! don't expect them to look like the Hasagawa kits though because these are transformable and have to work in all modes. These are just like the Bandai MG kits only better (because they're Macross )

Yep. I was up in the F-22 looking at everything; even the cool engine nozzles and thought, "one step closer to a YF-19/21." We're gettin' there. They say "art imitates life," but the tables are turning. Look at the movie "Aliens." Most of the futuristic weaponry on there is now in acceptance testing! Maybe someday a valk...

See if this helps: http://members.optusnet.com.au/~cyc01/ If not, than I have a good stockpile of pictures.

Yeah man! Postage to the U.K isn't that bad! If you like had to fuel up and arm the Monster, that'd be another story! I've purchased several mail order things and the cost is better than what I thought. If I didn't build in another scale, I'd buy one too! I already built one in 1/100th scale and it's huge! I'd say, "go for it!"

Looks great! Great coloring on the nozzles. Just add fuel and space now!

Oh oh! sounds like if it hasn't cured in a week, you may have to strip it. I bet the Model Master and Krylon clash. Get a spare piece of plastic to check the two together. If I recall correctly you Kryloned in white (base coat) AND blue, right? The good news is that the resin won't get attacked as easily if you do have to strip it down. Sorry man, I know the "agony of defeat" too - it's sticky for months!

I haven't seen the Aves putty anywhere in the UK either and I've been all over. The milliput I use is normally the superfine type. I just bought some a few weeks back, so we'll see how it goes.

If you're looking for decal paper, here's a sample pack of clear and white with fixative for $9.75. Here's a link: http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?M...roduct&ID=82859

It's all in the amount of UV shield they add to the plastic. The next best thing is to keep it out of the sun or direct sunlight. Second, keep it out of direct flourescent lighting as most flourescent light pump out decent amounts of UV rays. I learned this the hard way over the years. Keep to incadescent lamps or LED's in your display case or shelving if you can.

Look forward to seeing it. Don't miss living in the south weather wise at all. Nice people, hot and humid weather!

Thanks everyone. A Macross Bowling ball! That's what I don't have yet! Thanks for giving me that idea. My wife has a Minnie Mouse bowling ball, and I have a plain ole' 16 pounder. Yeah, what would I put on there though? Just the plain ole' "Kite roundrel, or like Hikaru's face or a Valk? Hmmm. Next year I'll have to do a Promethius or AMRD platform (since I'm still in "deck swabbing" status)!

That's not bad at all for a start. Decals, a wash and touch ups will make it all worth while. Yeah, the dreaded "paint drying monster" got me before too (maybe that was the monster attacking everyone during "Lost", season 1 - I haven't seen season 2 yet)! I use spray can enamel paint because I'm so bad about that. Otherwise, I use acrylics. Enamels wear the best though! Sometimes you can lightly buff fingerprints out of the gloss paint if the coats are thick enough.