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GU-11

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Everything posted by GU-11

  1. Thanks for all the input! By the sound of it, it's most probably my own fault for spraying on a hot day; to make matters worse, it had rained the night before, although it was pretty warm throughout the next day. I'll give it another try next week. This time, it'll be indoors, at a 10cm distance. One more thing: should I warm up the can in hot water like most customizers recommend?
  2. To be honest, I don't mind doing a little more work wet sanding the parts. But what I'm most worried about is that the primer might fill up all the panel lines and details--for example, those "energy lines" on Kotobukiya's ZOE Jehuty model kit. Also, I came across this problem when sanding the sword blades of my MG Gundam Exia. As the primer was a little too grainy to get a smooth coat of paint, I wet sanded the blades, and inevitably sanded off a bit of primer from the blade edges, leaving naked plastic. Maybe this has more to do with my poor sanding skills, though. Hopefully, it is as you and EXO said, and it's just the heat and my spraying the primer at too big a distance (about less than a foot away, if I remember correctly). I'll give it another try next week and see how it goes. If not, I might have to try other alternatives like using flat coat as a primer to give the surface more tooth.
  3. I'm an utter newbie when it comes to painting anything, but at least these bonus figures are dispensable in a way. I mean, if I don't paint them, they're just going to sit there for another ten years collecting dust.
  4. Know what's funny? The regular vehicon has a thruster on its rear in alt mode when ideally it shouldn't, but the jet version that should have one, doesn't. I wonder if their parts are similar enough to swap the backpacks without affecting transformation?
  5. Now that you mentioned it, heat and distance could be a possible cause. I tried to spray as far away as I could to prevent coating the parts in too much primer. And the heat where I'm at can get atrocious sometimes, especially outdoors. I've finally got a spray booth, though, and I'm planning to move my painting indoors. BTW, can I use flat clear spray as primer for surface prepping? I was thinking maybe the matte coat might give enough tooth to the surface for better adherence, although not as good as proper primer. The reason I'm trying to hold off on buying that fine surface primer is because I'm already using more money than I should right now, and I'd like to save up whenever I can. And since I've got an extra can of flat clear spray, I just thought I'd use that as a possible alternative. Or maybe I should just go without the primer? I plan on coating the kit in Future Floor Polish anyway, which protects the paint in a clear, rock-hard shell. Would that be sufficient to prevent flaking and chipping? Thanks for the confirmation, vt102. I read some posts about it using FFP as primer, but I guess it's probably just some untested theory.
  6. Thanks, man, I'll look it up! I do have a bottle of grease and glue remover from another brand, though. Maybe I should try it on the runner and see if it works.
  7. Let's just say Medicom is kind of like Justin Hammer to HT's Tony Stark. The reason they're still afloat is mostly due to the fact that they hold licenses to the Star Wars and Kamen Rider franchises...that's what I've been hearing, anyway. I've never bought a Medicom fig, so I don't personally know about the issues, but I've read a lot of complaints about them.
  8. Buzzsaw...damn, my Japanese is getting rusty. I don't remember much about the character in the G1 cartoons, but I was seriously hoping for Ratbat. I hope they'll space the release dates between MP-15 and MP-16 a little further apart; too much of this and my wallet will cry for help.
  9. You bet I will. If I feel thick-skinned enough, I might even post some of my stuff here. Though I'd be seriously outclassed by you guys here. @ Radd: That's a nice piece of work there! I've always loved cyberpunk artwork.
  10. Thanks for the info, guys! @ EXO: Is there any way I can still use the regular surface primer cans for prepping a kit's surface before painting? These things are expensive, and I actually brought three cans of it. @ Cesar: I heard that you need to use lacquer thinner to thin Tamiya primer, and acrylic thinner won't work with it. Can I use regular industrial lacquer thinner you get from hardware stores, instead of Tamiya's branded lacquer thinner? The Tamiya store is pretty far from where I stay. EDIT: I've heard that Future Floor Polish makes a decent primer for acrylic paint. Is that true? I've got a bottle of it at home. If so, I might just use that, and save the Tamiya Surface Primers for when I need them, i.e. uneven or scratched surfaces.
  11. @ Jefuemon: Where did you buy that? Was a major Airwolf fan back in the day. Hope its still available. Might get that for myself this Christmas.
  12. And now we move on to problems with primer. I just noticed that Tamiya also sells a "fine" surface primer, along with its regular primer. The regular ones have a rather grainy finish, and I have to wet sand the parts to get a smoother finish. Thing is, I've already bought three cans of the regular stuff before realizing there's another version. Honestly, I'm not sure if this has to do with the humidity in the air or the primer itself. Can anyone give any advice on the difference between the "fine" surface primer and the regular stuff? Or is the grainy finish due to the weather and spraying distance?
  13. Good point. As expected, MP-10 gets a black version, and will probably go on to spawn an Ultra Magnus repaint, "sleeping mode", and clear version. Who's that orange bird cassette? Not sure what to make of the katakana name. Vassun? Bassun? Basutsu?
  14. Understandably, the Squalkbox figure is a mediocre brick made from 80's toy tech, but I can see Takara making a pretty cool toy using today's knowhow. I wonder if the Hasbro version (pretending that there will even be a funtional Takara Blaster in the future) will keep the mp3/ radio components for their TRU exclusive? They did give US collectors a pleasant surprise by including MP-10's trailer when everyone expected them not to.
  15. Unfortunately, I don't think there's an Autozone outlet in Malaysia. My best shot would be hardware stores, but for some reason, they just don't like to stock primer. BTW, I heard that FFP (Future Floor Polish aka Pledge) makes a decent primer. Is this true?
  16. They do?! I might have to make an exception for those two, then. But knowing Takara, they'll be sure to separate the two into different releases, like they're doing to Frenzy and Rumble. Your collection will never be complete until you buy EVERYTHING. If they do release Blaster, he might actually be a functional radio or MP3 player. If I'm not mistaken, the original Japanese toy had such a function; basically the radio components were disguised inside a cassette, which plugs into the chest. The legs also housed actual speakers.
  17. Didn't notice this thread before, but that's some pretty nice artwork here.
  18. Good point, Benson. Besides, they're just for practice, so it shouldn't matter too much. I just hate to waste all that expensive Tamiya primer on them is all .
  19. For all I care, they can call the blue one Periwinkle and the red one Gingerfpuff. As long as the figures don't have the names printed on them, I can choose to call either of them Frenzy or Rumble. Not liking the price, though. I could buy a figma with that kind of money. But since I've already got Soundwave, I'll have to get all the cassettes as well--the essential ones, at least. FnR, Ravage, Laserbeak, and Ratbat, and that's all I'll buy. I remember they've got parakeets, gorillas and rhinos in the comics, but I've got no interest in those.
  20. Now that I'm finally ready to paint something, I dug out a couple of unpainted plastic figures that came with the old Arii Macross model kits. These are random-packed, and the ones I got were Roy and Quamzin. Thing is, it's been over ten years since I last left them in storage, and the plastic's become sticky--something to do with plasticizers separating, or something like that. Are these still worth painting up? A coat of primer should solve the stickiness problem, but I have no idea if the figures will just disintegrate sooner or later. So, are they worth the trouble or should I just toss them in the trash bin?
  21. Their Vader fig comes to mind. Lot of complaints of flaking black leather. Plenty of reported joint problems on their Kamen Riders,too.
  22. I wonder if those little Tomytec buildings will scale in well enough with the EVA's. If the umbilical cable is long enough, one might be able to customize a socket station from one of those buildings. If the cables are long enough to coil around the floor, that'd be fine, but if they're so short that they don't dangle past the knees, I'd rather display the EVA's without them...not that I'm planning to buy one. As for the arms, Hot Toys experimented with something similar with their exclusive T-1000 Sarah Connor fig. It had a layer of rubber skin over the whole arm. Sadly, problems occured with stretching and potential tearing. Not sure how the EVA's rubber sleeves might hold up.
  23. No surprise, the local hobby store couldn't open the VF-25G for pre order, and it's doubtful they'll even be available. Screw this; at least I've got Alto's -25F and his Super parts.
  24. Lookin' good there, Kelsain. The more I look at these new motifs, the more I prefer them to the original, where the striping in fighter mode just end at the seam between the battroid's chest and backpack. The way the lines continue down and flow into the wings gives the VF a much more integrated look.
  25. They should, considering the price of these things. @ anime42k8: Do the umbilical cables plug into anything, like a socket or building/charging station, or something? IMO, it'd look pretty stupid just dangling there. BTW, did they put real rubber over the arms? Looks great, but wear and tear might be an issue. Not crazy about the PlayArts Kai style knees, either.
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