MacrossJunkie

Made some additional progress on the 0S. I made some screwups over the past few days on the way there though. I clearcoated the top section to prepare it for additional weathering and waited a day for it to dry. Somehow some of the clearcoat was still wet so when I touched it, whole areas of my work came off with my finger... argh... So I had to redo some sections. Then I found I must not have sprayed enough clearcoat because when I tested doing some weathering with some oil paints and didn't like the result, I wiped it off with some turpenoid which shouldn't react with the acrylic and up came the weathering again... le sigh... redo and clear coat again. This time, I added some additional mottling freehanded with an airbrush to the top section and started on the sides and front of the legs and as a precaution, I added thicker layers of clear coat after finishing the first stage.

Try the Wanted forum? http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/forum/10-wanted/

I tried to do the same thing with my PF VF-0D as I did with my 0S, but the pre-applied black filter they sprayed on it is difficult to remove. So in the end trying to do the same thing felt more like trying to sculpt a statue using a shovel and sledgehammer compared to using a fine chisel and sculptor's mallet. To get it off required pressure and a lot of scrubbing instead of a simple swipe. so it was harder to control and the result is not as fine compared to what I was able to achieve with the 0S. The underlying plastic was also a very light blue and looked odd, a shader had to be sprayed over the area I rubbed the filter off in order to tone it down. I can't say I'm totally happy with it, but I wasn't happy with how it looked out of the box anyway so I'm at least making the attempt. Only did the top minus the fuselage for now just to see how it would turn out. Edit: Additional WIP pic. Did the fuselage and added some additional mottling effects.

The white layer was just the bare plastic underneath, but the filter was easy to remove because it was mostly airbrush flow improver which slows drying time. The swabs I used to remove it were these Tamiya craft cotton swabs which are hard and have a point at the end, allowing for gentle yet precision removal of paint. So while the filter wasn't dry yet, I just used the swabs to rub it off. If the paint has dried, dip the swab in thinner, pat it down so it's merely damp and continue working. Now that I think about it, I could probably have used a bottle of MIG heavy chipping effects I had to achieve this also. You'd spray it on first, then spray the paint you want to remove. It creates a slow drying layer underneath the paint and makes the paint on top of it easy to remove. With just some water on the swab, I probably could have achieved similar results. This shows it being used to create dirt streaking effects, but same principle. Just removing paint after spraying it on: https://youtu.be/b2Zlf0i6h4s

These things need a GERWALK-like joint for the knee or something so that the knee could extend and curve in to allow for the leg to bend at the knee greater than the roughly 90 degrees the transformable VF-1 toys from Arcadia and Bandai allow.

+1 I can't even begin to figure out how to scratchbuild something like that. That's looking really good. That grill on the nacelle is a nice touch too. Looking great! I do like the Tornado pack on the VF-25F. Looking forward to seeing it completed. After I finished up my SV-51, I began to explore how I would weather its counterpart, Roy's VF-0S. Like with the SV-51, I am trying to take inspiration from the mini-series. I used a Yamato VF-0S as a test bed to try out different ideas but I just couldn't get that lighter colored wear shown on the 0S like so: It hit me that I was taking an additive approach instead of subtractive. So I sprayed the Yamato 0S with a misting of thinned black and tried various types of sanding, to remove the grey layer, but it wasn't precise enough. So I tried a slightly different approach... modify it while still wet. I loaded up the paint with drying retardant and thinner and sprayed my Arcadia 0S and then used those hard Tamiya swabs with the pointed tips to start removing paint. I think this time it's turning out like how I want it. There's a lot more work that will need to go into it, but I think I finally have a good starting point. Using a method like this was probably immediately obvious, but I'm a noob, so yeah...

I hope I can score one for a reasonable price on release. The improvements sound pretty good. Without the ratcheted swivels, the engines on the wings tend to droop with the super parts on and the bendy head lasers are hard to position because the ball in the ball joint doesn't move with it and often just ends up twisting the pvc when trying and then it slowly returns to its original position. Also the hinge that attaches the head plate is cracked on mine as well.

These would be my picks based on time spent on them, how well they came out in the end, and my like for the design overall. No particular order: Yamato 1:3000 SDF-1 Macross Yamato 1:60 VF-1J with GBP-1S Arcadia 1:60 Ivanov SV-51γ Yamato 1:60 Max VF-22S Bandai Macross Quarter Arcadia 1:60 YF-19 Bandai 1:60 YF-30 Bandai 1:60 Ozma YF-29 w/ super parts Bandai 1:60 Armored VF-25S Bandai 1:60 Tornado VF-25F

That "discount" is probably discounting from your original chance of getting it through the pre-order. so if it was 10% before, it's now 0%

The front doors should be straight down and technically so should the rear ones as well, but this is the first time (that I know of) where we have a VF-1 toy where the rear landing gear struts angle outwards which is not really canon as far as I can tell, but it is what it is. As such, you can't have one of the rear doors going straight down because they get in the way of the angled out landing gear so you really have no choice but to angle it out to give enough clearance. The air brake should be down once stopped. They work by increasing drag/air resistance to help slow down the plane so there's really no point in them being up once the plane has stopped or is just taxiing, unless it's undergoing some maintenance or something.

Wow... that's the most useless live support ever. They probably just couldn't be bothered. For order statuses, they'd probably just tell you exactly what you could already see on the website. Sorry...

That's pretty crappy. A store credit, at most, should only be given when returning something, not when the store cancels an order which is no fault of your own. They didn't make good on the order, they should be refunding you. Edit: I would try getting someone on their live chat and see if they can make it right. A store credit in this situation just isn't acceptable.

Glad it helped. That looks perfect!

And what did they say? I'm in the same boat. I'm still waiting on mine and there's no notification or any indication that they ever arrived.

Coming. I'm still considering what exactly I'm going to do with them.

I've also known about the oxidation component, but have always wondered if clear coating helps prevent/slow it down or if the clear coats are too porous to air for it to matter. That's aside from the issue that there are some clear coats themselves that are prone to or notorious for yellowing like Testor's clear coats.

GERWALK and Battroid:

I assume you mean the price I paid for mine back when they first came out? I got one from CDJapan for ¥26200 shipped. Without shipping, it was ¥22000. Another was from HLJ for ¥20900 before shipping. I'm not sure how much shipping was because I had it shipped together with a Messer 31F. So shipping was ¥5300. It's probably around ¥4200 if it were to be shipped by itself.

What do you mean by ending price?

Worked on my DYRL Hikaru VF-1S. This was an Arcadia release and had the stupid pink hue. I think I mostly took care of that. My first attempt at adding some subtle salt weathering into the mix. The weathering doesn't really seem to show up well in the thumbnails though. Still need to get around to doing the FAST packs.

And as close to 0 kelvin as possible. It can't deteriorate if the molecules can't move.

Yeah, that's just really crappy plastic you're dealing with there. There's just no way some of those landing bay doors could turn THAT orange from UV alone, much less when they've been covered the whole time by the GBP armor. The fact that the plastics changed color at different rates, even when covered, shows that the plastic itself (and how much the chemical components that make it up breaking down or catalyzing) can be a high contributing factor to yellowing itself. Though I am willing to bet that if you had stored it in the freezer, that sort of temperature might have slowed the yellowing

Do the hands actually fit into the arms?

I saw that too. It's odd because it's just so specific and seemingly intentional... It would be like selling a bunch of cars for cheap, but taking all the mirrors out of the side mirror housings and the rear view mirror or all the steering wheels are missing.