MacrossJunkie
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Everything posted by MacrossJunkie
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These would be my picks based on time spent on them, how well they came out in the end, and my like for the design overall. No particular order: Yamato 1:3000 SDF-1 Macross Yamato 1:60 VF-1J with GBP-1S Arcadia 1:60 Ivanov SV-51γ Yamato 1:60 Max VF-22S Bandai Macross Quarter Arcadia 1:60 YF-19 Bandai 1:60 YF-30 Bandai 1:60 Ozma YF-29 w/ super parts Bandai 1:60 Armored VF-25S Bandai 1:60 Tornado VF-25F
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That "discount" is probably discounting from your original chance of getting it through the pre-order. so if it was 10% before, it's now 0%
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The front doors should be straight down and technically so should the rear ones as well, but this is the first time (that I know of) where we have a VF-1 toy where the rear landing gear struts angle outwards which is not really canon as far as I can tell, but it is what it is. As such, you can't have one of the rear doors going straight down because they get in the way of the angled out landing gear so you really have no choice but to angle it out to give enough clearance. The air brake should be down once stopped. They work by increasing drag/air resistance to help slow down the plane so there's really no point in them being up once the plane has stopped or is just taxiing, unless it's undergoing some maintenance or something.
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Wow... that's the most useless live support ever. They probably just couldn't be bothered. For order statuses, they'd probably just tell you exactly what you could already see on the website. Sorry...
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That's pretty crappy. A store credit, at most, should only be given when returning something, not when the store cancels an order which is no fault of your own. They didn't make good on the order, they should be refunding you. Edit: I would try getting someone on their live chat and see if they can make it right. A store credit in this situation just isn't acceptable.
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Glad it helped. That looks perfect!
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And what did they say? I'm in the same boat. I'm still waiting on mine and there's no notification or any indication that they ever arrived.
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Coming. I'm still considering what exactly I'm going to do with them.
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I've also known about the oxidation component, but have always wondered if clear coating helps prevent/slow it down or if the clear coats are too porous to air for it to matter. That's aside from the issue that there are some clear coats themselves that are prone to or notorious for yellowing like Testor's clear coats.
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GERWALK and Battroid:
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I assume you mean the price I paid for mine back when they first came out? I got one from CDJapan for ¥26200 shipped. Without shipping, it was ¥22000. Another was from HLJ for ¥20900 before shipping. I'm not sure how much shipping was because I had it shipped together with a Messer 31F. So shipping was ¥5300. It's probably around ¥4200 if it were to be shipped by itself.
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What do you mean by ending price?
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Worked on my DYRL Hikaru VF-1S. This was an Arcadia release and had the stupid pink hue. I think I mostly took care of that. My first attempt at adding some subtle salt weathering into the mix. The weathering doesn't really seem to show up well in the thumbnails though. Still need to get around to doing the FAST packs.
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And as close to 0 kelvin as possible. It can't deteriorate if the molecules can't move.
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Yeah, that's just really crappy plastic you're dealing with there. There's just no way some of those landing bay doors could turn THAT orange from UV alone, much less when they've been covered the whole time by the GBP armor. The fact that the plastics changed color at different rates, even when covered, shows that the plastic itself (and how much the chemical components that make it up breaking down or catalyzing) can be a high contributing factor to yellowing itself. Though I am willing to bet that if you had stored it in the freezer, that sort of temperature might have slowed the yellowing
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Do the hands actually fit into the arms? -
I saw that too. It's odd because it's just so specific and seemingly intentional... It would be like selling a bunch of cars for cheap, but taking all the mirrors out of the side mirror housings and the rear view mirror or all the steering wheels are missing.
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I only want to know why this person is taking off all the flaps and what he's doing with them...
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@MechTech That's really incredible that you're scratchbuilding all that. It looks so cleanly done and detailed, even that sculpted ejection port. @NZEOD Are those 3D printed or from some kit? That's pretty detailed for something so small. Well painted and good decaling too. @derex3592 If you're already already planning to light up that kit, maybe you could have those screens be backlit too. haha. @wm cheng Well done on that Wolfpack scheme. I don't really know what you could do to weather it either as you're shooting for a new plane look. Using this for reference, it looks pretty much as yours does.
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The heat shield was red, yes, but I think it's still stored away somewhere else. That looks like a replacement piece put in to attach a GBP armor piece as it has a square hole for a peg or something. For comparison reference: http://www.macrossworld.com/macross/toys/yamato_vf1/battroid/_yamato_vf1_battroid.htm
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Wow, that is pretty insane. Never seen white turn to grey before. That looks like cases of plastic just breaking down over time rather than exposure to sunlight, particularly since areas like the chest piece would have been covered by the GBP armor. As expected, painted parts like the white on the transparent wing lights and the die cast legs are still pristine white. They must have had some very different mixtures in the plastic batches for one wing to turn sherbet orange while the other one is relatively okay.
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Ah, okay. It seemed to be okay on the ABS plastic of the DX, I guess not so much for styrene. Tamiya probably figured it wouldn't matter on models since panel lining isn't usually the first thing one would do most of the time unless one is just snap fitting a model together and going straight to panel lining it and being done with it. Still, that's good to know. They must use turpentine as the thinner medium or something for it to have that kind of reaction.
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I guess we're probably thinking of two different things here. I was thinking of the cases where paint has actually come off and is showing some of the plastic's color underneath rather than imperfections to the surface of the paint where the paint is still there. One would require matching the paint and touching it up or just accepting it as is, if the former scenario. If the latter, then yes, it would be just like imperfections to the plastic surface and you can hide that with a clear coat. I also get why you're saying matte since it's less reflective so it doesn't show bumps and such. Same reason one would paint a wall with a satin or matte paint if using it to project on. A gloss finish would show every bump and imperfection on a drywall surface.
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In this case, Lolicon and MKT are talking about scratches or scrapes on the paint itself rather than on plastic which would require paint matching to touch it up.
