3D printed yamato 1/60 arm part replacement?

[sjoebarry]

Anyone know where i can get a replacement 3D printed piece for the arm part that breaks alot?  Looks like Shapeways doesnt have them anymore

[valhary]

you mean this?

[sjoebarry]

On 11/21/2024 at 10:40 PM, valhary said:

you mean this?

Yes. Another one of mine broke 

[valhary]

I have spares send me a PM

[Gianluca2196]

Is there anyway I can purchase the same pieces please. Had the same issue. Thank you 

[Jasonc]

I have a file for this that I can put up on shapeways. I gotta pull out my old external drive. If you don't get working pieces, I'll have them up most likely in a couple days.

[Gianluca2196]

Thank you very much for replying to my comment, I was lucky enough to purchase some replacement parts for it already. I appreciate the gesture 👍

[rsvictor1976]

On 12/31/2024 at 9:09 AM, Jasonc said:

I have a file for this that I can put up on shapeways. I gotta pull out my old external drive. If you don't get working pieces, I'll have them up most likely in a couple days.

Any chance you have those files? I’d be interested in getting a pair of the reinforced ones that was on shapeways. Although, now the shapeways is gone, I don’t know what other 3d printing service to use.

[rfajardojr]

On 1/1/2025 at 1:09 AM, Jasonc said:

I have a file for this that I can put up on shapeways. I gotta pull out my old external drive. If you don't get working pieces, I'll have them up most likely in a couple days.

Any news on this? I have 3 broken vf-1s that badly need some replacements.

[Jasonc]

I'm still looking for them. I think my problem is that I didn't name it well, and I'm just not finding it in the library of stuff. I'm going to be opening up each file since the name I thought it was on isn't in there. 

[borgified]

Here you go.. 

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/valkyrie-one-sixty-shoulder-hinger

I bought one from Shapeways years ago (before they folded) and haven’t got around to replace one from my Yammie 1/60 VF-1j from over 5ish(?) years ago. 

[rsvictor1976]

1 hour ago, borgified said:

Here you go.. 

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/valkyrie-one-sixty-shoulder-hinger

I bought one from Shapeways years ago (before they folded) and haven’t got around to replace one from my Yammie 1/60 VF-1j from over 5ish(?) years ago. 

You’re awesome! This is the reinforced ones too right? 

Edited January 10 by rsvictor1976

[borgified]

I should think so, however these are printed out in red based on the picture in the link. Have no idea if they’re going to be in white for those how are really OCD about not being the right colour. 

[rsvictor1976]

58 minutes ago, borgified said:

I should think so, however these are printed out in red based on the picture in the link. Have no idea if they’re going to be in white for those how are really OCD about not being the right colour. 

I don’t know anything about 3D printing but isn’t the color just based on what material you use or is it an actual printer setting?

[borgified]

2 hours ago, rsvictor1976 said:

I don’t know anything about 3D printing but isn’t the color just based on what material you use or is it an actual printer setting?

The colour of the part(s) is up to the cartridge of plastic resin is used inside the machine. 
 

Edit: You can fine tune to what specs that you wish the part(s) to be upon before you print. 

Edited January 11 by borgified

[rsvictor1976]

1 hour ago, borgified said:

The colour of the part(s) is up to the cartridge of plastic resin is used inside the machine. 
 

Edit: You can fine tune to what specs that you wish the part(s) to be upon before you print. 

Quick question, I'm watching an old video from CollectionDX about how to replace the shoulder hinge. Are you able to fit two replacement hinges into fighter mode or did you need to make some adjustments?

[wmkjr]

4 hours ago, rsvictor1976 said:

I don’t know anything about 3D printing but isn’t the color just based on what material you use or is it an actual printer setting?

The color of the filament or resin(s) used. The ones in the pic look like the red SLS Shapeways material. The one you print out will look different using a resin or FDM style printer.

[borgified]

I haven’t had time to replace the joints with the replacement ones yet @rsvictor1976, as I’m tied up with my work schedule. 

I’m sure that there will be things that need to be addressed when you do the replacement yourself if you have the opportunity to. 

[j3390659]

On 1/10/2025 at 5:57 PM, borgified said:

Here you go.. 

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/valkyrie-one-sixty-shoulder-hinger

I bought one from Shapeways years ago (before they folded) and haven’t got around to replace one from my Yammie 1/60 VF-1j from over 5ish(?) years ago. 

Thank you so much.  I am looking for the hinge too and posted it at the "workshop" forum (probably the wrong forum).  I am so happy to find this thread and your reply.  Just made the purchase for your 3D file.  You are a life-saver.

[borgified]

@j3390659 - It’s not my 3D file, it’s actually Veef’s. He was the one who uploaded it on Shapeways when it was at its prime, however fell into the red when it filled for receivership. 

I believe that he was also on the Macross boards here, but stopped going on here after some time. 
 

Edit: Wrong accounting colour corrected

 

Edited January 12 by borgified

[rfajardojr]

22 hours ago, borgified said:

@j3390659 - It’s not my 3D file, it’s actually Veef’s. He was the one who uploaded it on Shapeways when it was at its prime, however fell into the red when it filled for receivership. 

I believe that he was also on the Macross boards here, but stopped going on here after some time. 
 

Edit: Wrong accounting colour corrected

 

Thanks!

[Jasonc]

Glad someone found one...

 

If anyone gets the file to print, this is just my advice, but I'd suggest getting it printed on a SLS in a Nylon, something that has very good strength and can withstand movement. Regular resin printers won't cut it, and even the Tough 2000 Resin I have, while just like plastic, might not be enough (although, I should still try to find my file and test it). There are other resins I can use that would be great for it, but their drawback is that they aren't really paintable. For those, nylon is probably best. 

[Sandman]

I didn't even know shapeways was gone. 

[borgified]

@Sandman - Link: 

https://www.tctmagazine.com/additive-manufacturing-3d-printing-news/latest-additive-manufacturing-3d-printing-news/shapeways-ceases-operations-and-files-for-bankruptcy/

From what I remember, Shapeways teamed up with 3D Cults (?) to keep their business going. Seems like everything is going off shore to keeps costs down due to economic reasons. 

Edit: Found article regarding Shapeways new venture. 

https://www.tctmagazine.com/additive-manufacturing-3d-printing-news/latest-additive-manufacturing-3d-printing-news/shapeways-acquires-thangs-3d-file-sharing-community-physna/

Edited January 24 by borgified

[wsna]

On 1/10/2025 at 4:57 PM, borgified said:

Here you go.. 

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/valkyrie-one-sixty-shoulder-hinger

I bought one from Shapeways years ago (before they folded) and haven’t got around to replace one from my Yammie 1/60 VF-1j from over 5ish(?) years ago. 

Hi borgified - I remember reading about replacement parts for 1/60 Yamato/Arcadia VF-1 a long while ago. After I noticed my hinges (for swinging the out the arms to the sides) cracking badly and dropping an entire arm, I am thankful that I booked marked this thread. The link you posted is a ray of hope. Apart from getting the STL file, would you know what kinds of proven material do I use to print these pieces? Is there a "good" way to take apart and reassemble the joint with the least amount of damage as possible?

I am very thankful for our community online. Finding Valkyrie toys let alone from finding ways to mod or fix them is scarce or has always been non-existent.

Very Grateful - WS

[borgified]

I don't have a 3d printer so can't provide you any details on which types/filament of material to use. 

As for the removal, these may maybe of service 

Veef's actual video done 13 years ago

I take it that a fair chunk of us here on these threads are not mechanically skilled?  

[HardlyNever]

On 8/31/2025 at 11:00 PM, wsna said:

Hi borgified - I remember reading about replacement parts for 1/60 Yamato/Arcadia VF-1 a long while ago. After I noticed my hinges (for swinging the out the arms to the sides) cracking badly and dropping an entire arm, I am thankful that I booked marked this thread. The link you posted is a ray of hope. Apart from getting the STL file, would you know what kinds of proven material do I use to print these pieces? Is there a "good" way to take apart and reassemble the joint with the least amount of damage as possible?

I am very thankful for our community online. Finding Valkyrie toys let alone from finding ways to mod or fix them is scarce or has always been non-existent.

Very Grateful - WS

I do a fair amount of 3D printing so I'll give you what advice I have.  (Un)Fortunately, I haven't had to do this repair myself, so I can't speak directly to how hard to is it do (but from what I've seen it is pretty straight forward).

As far as what materials, your most common options are going to be PLA (a type of plastic) or resin.  There are lots of other kinds of printers out there, including ABS (which would be ideal here), but most of those are more expensive.

For this type of thing, I'd probably use PLA, as it is more durable than resin.  It generally looks a bit worse (more visible print lines), depending on the resolution of the printer, but since this is a part you barely see, I don't think that is an issue.  As others mentioned, what color it is will depend on what color of filament you use.  Color matching the valk exactly with just filament color is going to be pretty hard.  Painting with thin coat of paint would probably be easier to get a much closer color match.

 A key thing is to keep the two metal parts (the pin and the screw) from your existing joint, as replacing those could be a pain.

Hope that helps.

[Jasonc]

On 9/3/2025 at 5:35 PM, HardlyNever said:

I do a fair amount of 3D printing so I'll give you what advice I have.  (Un)Fortunately, I haven't had to do this repair myself, so I can't speak directly to how hard to is it do (but from what I've seen it is pretty straight forward).

As far as what materials, your most common options are going to be PLA (a type of plastic) or resin.  There are lots of other kinds of printers out there, including ABS (which would be ideal here), but most of those are more expensive.

For this type of thing, I'd probably use PLA, as it is more durable than resin.  It generally looks a bit worse (more visible print lines), depending on the resolution of the printer, but since this is a part you barely see, I don't think that is an issue.  As others mentioned, what color it is will depend on what color of filament you use.  Color matching the valk exactly with just filament color is going to be pretty hard.  Painting with thin coat of paint would probably be easier to get a much closer color match.

 A key thing is to keep the two metal parts (the pin and the screw) from your existing joint, as replacing those could be a pain.

Hope that helps.

The one thing I like about PLA is that it has a large variety of different colors. That said, I've printed in several SLS printers now, and PLA wouldn't really be an option for me with those parts. It is a plant-based plastic, and while that normally isn't an issue, when looking for qualities similar to ABS, the fact that there are a lot of newer Core X-Y printers that can print in ABS a lot easier than just a few years ago, ABS is a much more accessible material. There's also PETG, and some other hybrids that are fairly simple to print. With ABS though, the only thing with it is that it is a toxic material to print, so anyone doing it, have great ventilation and use a respirator when in the room, garage, or area while it's printing. Same should be for a lot of materials, but especially ABS, along with a few others. 

As for best materials, I have a printer that does do nylon. It's even more expensive, but while it is stronger and more resilient in how it handles, it's limited in colors (usually white, or black if you mix with a carbon fiber mixture). 

[HardlyNever]

5 hours ago, Jasonc said:

The one thing I like about PLA is that it has a large variety of different colors. That said, I've printed in several SLS printers now, and PLA wouldn't really be an option for me with those parts. It is a plant-based plastic, and while that normally isn't an issue, when looking for qualities similar to ABS, the fact that there are a lot of newer Core X-Y printers that can print in ABS a lot easier than just a few years ago, ABS is a much more accessible material. There's also PETG, and some other hybrids that are fairly simple to print. With ABS though, the only thing with it is that it is a toxic material to print, so anyone doing it, have great ventilation and use a respirator when in the room, garage, or area while it's printing. Same should be for a lot of materials, but especially ABS, along with a few others. 

As for best materials, I have a printer that does do nylon. It's even more expensive, but while it is stronger and more resilient in how it handles, it's limited in colors (usually white, or black if you mix with a carbon fiber mixture). 

Yeah, I was trying to give him an idea of what is readily available at consumer-grade level. I'm lucky enough to work somewhere that I have access to a lot of printers and materials ( from fdm printers to SLA , to resin, abs and carbon fiber), but I know most people don't have access to that.

If he can find someone or somewhere that can print in ABS, that would be ideal like I mentioned, but it still doesn't seem that common at the consumer level. PETG would be a good option and is becoming more readily available.

Also PLA has come along in the last few years. 5 years ago I would never try to do a part like that in PLA, but if that were my only option now, I think it would be fine.

[Jasonc]

20 hours ago, HardlyNever said:

Yeah, I was trying to give him an idea of what is readily available at consumer-grade level. I'm lucky enough to work somewhere that I have access to a lot of printers and materials ( from fdm printers to SLA , to resin, abs and carbon fiber), but I know most people don't have access to that.

If he can find someone or somewhere that can print in ABS, that would be ideal like I mentioned, but it still doesn't seem that common at the consumer level. PETG would be a good option and is becoming more readily available.

Also PLA has come along in the last few years. 5 years ago I would never try to do a part like that in PLA, but if that were my only option now, I think it would be fine.

Ah, got it. I know even PLA has different formulations like PLA+. Some do respond better than the original stuff. My current FDM printer can do PA6 and PA12 variants of Nylon, as well as those with carbon fiber reinforced, but it isn't a fun material to work with. I have heaters and dryers for it, and even then, if it is a humid day, all of that work is for nothing. Still, it's yielded some great fixes to things that were just impossible, like the VF-171 disintegrating triangles on the sides. And you're right, those materials aren't cheap. The PA12 CF version is exceptional with less water absorption, and is just great to work with, but it's almost $90 for 500g. So, I use it very sparingly. Maybe it'll get cheaper as the technology allows more accessibility to print those materials.

[PvtPrivate]

On 9/4/2025 at 7:35 AM, HardlyNever said:

I do a fair amount of 3D printing so I'll give you what advice I have.  (Un)Fortunately, I haven't had to do this repair myself, so I can't speak directly to how hard to is it do (but from what I've seen it is pretty straight forward).

As far as what materials, your most common options are going to be PLA (a type of plastic) or resin.  There are lots of other kinds of printers out there, including ABS (which would be ideal here), but most of those are more expensive.

For this type of thing, I'd probably use PLA, as it is more durable than resin.  It generally looks a bit worse (more visible print lines), depending on the resolution of the printer, but since this is a part you barely see, I don't think that is an issue.  As others mentioned, what color it is will depend on what color of filament you use.  Color matching the valk exactly with just filament color is going to be pretty hard.  Painting with thin coat of paint would probably be easier to get a much closer color match.

 A key thing is to keep the two metal parts (the pin and the screw) from your existing joint, as replacing those could be a pain.

Hope that helps.

I don't recommend PLA for mechanical parts. They slowly creep under load resulting in loose joints. I found PETG to work fine, easier to print than ABS and have no creep issues. Some resins will also creep and loosen to a degree, but not as much as PLA does.