sketchley Posted March 15, 2015 Share Posted March 15, 2015 hi, when you guys spray paint, where do you do it? does anyone do it in an apartment or do you have to own a home basement? and why go you guys use sticks and clips to hold up each part? (silly question... i've seen modelers use it...sorta interesting but don't know what it does.) using hikuro's pic If you don't have something to suck up the fumes, it's best to spray paint outside. The sticks and clips are to keep each part separate to give access to all of their while being painted to give them an even layer of paint. I generally only spray paint a clear-coat on, but even using only a lowly paintbrush, the sticks and clips method works wonders. Top tip: make the sticks out of disposable chopsticks. Use masking tape to attach the parts to the sticks. Use a rolled up (or folded up) cardboard box (taped up, cut in half) as a holder for the sticks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joppewo Posted March 15, 2015 Share Posted March 15, 2015 You could recycle those shipping cardboard boxes that you get as a holder for the sticks. Here's how mine looks like, just make sure that the height is sufficient enough to hold the sticks securely in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeszekely Posted March 15, 2015 Share Posted March 15, 2015 Ok, I've officially run into a problem. I have some pieces that make up the upper arms and part of the elbow joint, and they're molded in purple. The upper arm is purple, but the elbow should be white. As I did with the knees, I decided to spray paint them. I have a roll of what I thought was masking tape. I carefully taped off the stuff that should be purple, leaving only the parts that should be white exposed. Then I sprayed them with the same white Krylon Fusion paint I used on my Crossbone Maoh. Now, either the tape wasn't proper masking tape, or you can't use that masking tape with Krylon Fusion. Either way, the paint more or less melted through the tape and mixed with the adhesive, so when I pulled the tape off the parts that should be white were nice and white all right, but the purple areas had large splotches of white paint/adhesive mixture. They look pretty trashed. I tried cleaning the parts with rubbing alcohol and q-tips, but I don't think it's helped much. Is there anything you more knowledgeable guys can suggest that might fix this? Would a fine grit (maybe something like 600) sandpaper be ok? The purple areas are supposed to be smooth, if that helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phyrox Posted March 15, 2015 Share Posted March 15, 2015 Ok, I've officially run into a problem. I have some pieces that make up the upper arms and part of the elbow joint, and they're molded in purple. The upper arm is purple, but the elbow should be white. As I did with the knees, I decided to spray paint them. I have a roll of what I thought was masking tape. I carefully taped off the stuff that should be purple, leaving only the parts that should be white exposed. Then I sprayed them with the same white Krylon Fusion paint I used on my Crossbone Maoh. Now, either the tape wasn't proper masking tape, or you can't use that masking tape with Krylon Fusion. Either way, the paint more or less melted through the tape and mixed with the adhesive, so when I pulled the tape off the parts that should be white were nice and white all right, but the purple areas had large splotches of white paint/adhesive mixture. They look pretty trashed. I tried cleaning the parts with rubbing alcohol and q-tips, but I don't think it's helped much. Is there anything you more knowledgeable guys can suggest that might fix this? Would a fine grit (maybe something like 600) sandpaper be ok? The purple areas are supposed to be smooth, if that helps. Wet fine grit sandpaper should do the trick. At least, that's what I'd try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest davidwhangchoi Posted March 15, 2015 Share Posted March 15, 2015 If you don't have something to suck up the fumes, it's best to spray paint outside. The sticks and clips are to keep each part separate to give access to all of their while being painted to give them an even layer of paint. I generally only spray paint a clear-coat on, but even using only a lowly paintbrush, the sticks and clips method works wonders. Top tip: make the sticks out of disposable chopsticks. Use masking tape to attach the parts to the sticks. Use a rolled up (or folded up) cardboard box (taped up, cut in half) as a holder for the sticks. thanks for explaining what it is. i'll try that. i think my first attempt will be the mr. hobby semi matt stuff. need to grab some chopsticks. it's getting warm outside in NJ, so i can try doing it on my highrise apartment's patio deck. You could recycle those shipping cardboard boxes that you get as a holder for the sticks. Here's how mine looks like, just make sure that the height is sufficient enough to hold the sticks securely in place. that's a good idea. i think i have some boxes. Ok, I've officially run into a problem. Is there anything you more knowledgeable guys can suggest that might fix this? Would a fine grit (maybe something like 600) sandpaper be ok? The purple areas are supposed to be smooth, if that helps. i hope the wet sanding works let us know what happens! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nekko Basara Posted March 15, 2015 Share Posted March 15, 2015 You could recycle those shipping cardboard boxes that you get as a holder for the sticks. Here's how mine looks like, just make sure that the height is sufficient enough to hold the sticks securely in place. I love this! Going to give it a try. I'm currently using some blocks of that stuff that's used in fake flower arrangements to poke the stems into, and I hate them. They crumble at the slightest touch and make this dust that gets everywhere, so I have to be extra careful not to get it on parts. Mike, I concur with the sanding and wish you the best of luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anime52k8 Posted March 15, 2015 Share Posted March 15, 2015 (edited) I love this! Going to give it a try. I'm currently using some blocks of that stuff that's used in fake flower arrangements to poke the stems into, and I hate them. They crumble at the slightest touch and make this dust that gets everywhere, so I have to be extra careful not to get it on parts. Mike, I concur with the sanding and wish you the best of luck. with the floral foam, I wrapped the bricks of it I had in saran wrap to contain the dust. works pretty well. Edited March 15, 2015 by anime52k8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nekko Basara Posted March 15, 2015 Share Posted March 15, 2015 with the floral foam, I wrapped the bricks of it I had in saran wrap to contain the dust. works pretty well.Neat! I had been thinking about doing exactly that, but I hadn't tried it yet. Thanks for the tip! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hikuro Posted March 15, 2015 Share Posted March 15, 2015 hi, when you guys spray paint, where do you do it? does anyone do it in an apartment or do you have to own a home basement? and why go you guys use sticks and clips to hold up each part? (silly question... i've seen modelers use it...sorta interesting but don't know what it does.) using hikuro's pic The benefit for the sticks and clips is not only to keep parts seperated, but because you can paint the entire part you need in 1 go versus letting them stay on the runner tree and have to wait for it to dry then flip it over to do the other side. Problem with that is you might not get every little nook and cranny. You get a nice even coat of paint doing it this way, it takes longer but by god does it work better. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LKWA6Y2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1%C2'> I got them here, deal of 50 for 9 bucks on prime, not a horrible deal imo. Sticks do tend to be kind of worthless over time....I've lost like 3 cause they splintered or were already broken. The rubber grips aren't the best either they'll get sticky with paint. So when they're toast you just change it up with masking tape on one end of the clip to the stick and you're good. recycled styrofoam to me is the best way.....I've got tons of this stuff from when I moved. But I so do prefer painting now this way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeszekely Posted March 15, 2015 Share Posted March 15, 2015 Wet fine grit sandpaper should do the trick. At least, that's what I'd try. Mike, I concur with the sanding and wish you the best of luck. Alright, thanks. Unfortunately I went to the hardware store near my house, and the finest stuff they had was only 400 grit. I wound up ordering some 1000 grit on Amazon. The packaging said it's for automotive use, but the reviews had a number of people saying they used them with models, so I hope it works. Unfortunately I have to wait until Tuesday for it to arrive and finish my Psyco Gundam. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hikuro Posted March 15, 2015 Share Posted March 15, 2015 Finished my NT-Alex today even using the new Gundam markers. I don't like them that much. You need to wait a little while to get them dry then clean them up and lemme tell you, they only work well half the time. Maybe I just dunno how to use them properly. But the clean up was just so hard to do compared to normal enamel washes I've done. Stickers are ancient you can tell, they off set cut for them is almost twice the size of the printed portion so I had to size it up and make the neccessary cuts to make them fit properly. God, what an old kit this was lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest davidwhangchoi Posted March 15, 2015 Share Posted March 15, 2015 NTALEX.jpgNTAlexReactiveArmor.jpg Finished my NT-Alex today even using the new Gundam markers. I don't like them that much. You need to wait a little while to get them dry then clean them up and lemme tell you, they only work well half the time. Maybe I just dunno how to use them properly. But the clean up was just so hard to do compared to normal enamel washes I've done. Stickers are ancient you can tell, they off set cut for them is almost twice the size of the printed portion so I had to size it up and make the neccessary cuts to make them fit properly. God, what an old kit this was lol. i saw the instruction/promo video on the markers you got: it does look tricky to do Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeszekely Posted March 15, 2015 Share Posted March 15, 2015 Some of the lines look a little thick, but overall I think your Alex came out really well. I want an Alex, as I've always liked the design, but the age of the kit is a hurdle I don't care to overcome. Really want an RG Alex. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hikuro Posted March 15, 2015 Share Posted March 15, 2015 Some of the lines look a little thick, but overall I think your Alex came out really well. I want an Alex, as I've always liked the design, but the age of the kit is a hurdle I don't care to overcome. Really want an RG Alex. mhm, I'm not a big fan of the pen right now. While it does decent work on panel lines, actual sculpting details like hash marks or wide open slits, it does poorly on. Those are things that an actual enamel wash can do rather decently on its own if you got the proper mix done...the paint will just flow really well. On the plus side, unlike the enamel wash, the areas you have to clean up where the brush touch the surface doesn't smear like enamel will. So you can get longer use out of your q-tip. Of course videos show them using rubbing alcohol and yet I have to use lighter fluid. Sometimes not right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hikuro Posted March 15, 2015 Share Posted March 15, 2015 took the RG Exia I have for my Astrea out of the box and built the inner frame since you can essentially build the frames first THEN add in the other parts. The engineering of the frame to me is just astonishing to look at. Very artistic to me. If I could, I'd buy all the RG's I own twice JUST so I can have a frame depicting the same pose or something to show off how flexible they are without all the armor. Just love it. I wanna thank David again for picking up the Astrea for me, I know it was hard to find. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest davidwhangchoi Posted March 15, 2015 Share Posted March 15, 2015 Exia Frame.jpg took the RG Exia I have for my Astrea out of the box and built the inner frame since you can essentially build the frames first THEN add in the other parts. The engineering of the frame to me is just astonishing to look at. Very artistic to me. If I could, I'd buy all the RG's I own twice JUST so I can have a frame depicting the same pose or something to show off how flexible they are without all the armor. Just love it. I wanna thank David again for picking up the Astrea for me, I know it was hard to find. no problem, i ordered an extra set to be safe as well as a few other premium bandai's. it's so expensive to ship overseas so i thought to get doubles of a few things. is that a extra rg exia next to the inner frame or is that a hg? damn you built that thing fast. and i like the lines on the face of the other gundam. that's hard using a marker. can't wait to see what your astrea looks like at the end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hikuro Posted March 15, 2015 Share Posted March 15, 2015 no problem, i ordered an extra set to be safe as well as a few other premium bandai's. it's so expensive to ship overseas so i thought to get doubles of a few things. is that a extra rg exia next to the inner frame or is that a hg? damn you built that thing fast. and i like the lines on the face of the other gundam. that's hard using a marker. can't wait to see what your astrea looks like at the end. first exia is a RG I built back in August. The inner frame to the Exia is about 15 pieces it's pretty easy to assemble in 5 minutes. Sadly it seems the translucents on the front of the lower leg are bad. 1 is completely missing right from the package and the other won't bend. They're not Blue-fin logoed on the box so that's not gonna help me at all. right out of the damn box and it's not gonna be right. that's a shame. I may have to switch parts with the other exia but ugh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nekko Basara Posted March 16, 2015 Share Posted March 16, 2015 mhm, I'm not a big fan of the pen right now. While it does decent work on panel lines, actual sculpting details like hash marks or wide open slits, it does poorly on. Those are things that an actual enamel wash can do rather decently on its own if you got the proper mix done...the paint will just flow really well. On the plus side, unlike the enamel wash, the areas you have to clean up where the brush touch the surface doesn't smear like enamel will. So you can get longer use out of your q-tip. Of course videos show them using rubbing alcohol and yet I have to use lighter fluid. Sometimes not right. For what it's worth, Hikuro, I find there's a use for both my standard panel line marker and the Tamiya panel line wash*, which I believe operates the same way as your new flow-type pen. When I'm just hitting a few simple areas or sculpted details (open corners more obtuse than 90 degrees, for example), I like the marker. But if a part has loads of actual panel lines (that is, narrow, sharply-molded trenches) the Tamiya stuff flows in and takes care of it in jiffy. A good example of where the flow-type wash shines is the back of a Gundam shield, which is a nightmare to do with a marker. Anyways, it sounds like we've had similar experiences using markers vs. washes, so I just wanted to say that often the best solution is to alternate between them as the shape dictates. *when I say wash, I don't mean where you brush the thinned paint over the whole surface and it settles in the low spots, but where you apply it specifically to panel lines and it flows by capillary action; this is sometimes called a "pin wash" because it can be done using thinned paint applied via a drop on the end of a pin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hikuro Posted March 16, 2015 Share Posted March 16, 2015 For what it's worth, Hikuro, I find there's a use for both my standard panel line marker and the Tamiya panel line wash*, which I believe operates the same way as your new flow-type pen. When I'm just hitting a few simple areas or sculpted details (open corners more obtuse than 90 degrees, for example), I like the marker. But if a part has loads of actual panel lines (that is, narrow, sharply-molded trenches) the Tamiya stuff flows in and takes care of it in jiffy. A good example of where the flow-type wash shines is the back of a Gundam shield, which is a nightmare to do with a marker. Anyways, it sounds like we've had similar experiences using markers vs. washes, so I just wanted to say that often the best solution is to alternate between them as the shape dictates. *when I say wash, I don't mean where you brush the thinned paint over the whole surface and it settles in the low spots, but where you apply it specifically to panel lines and it flows by capillary action; this is sometimes called a "pin wash" because it can be done using thinned paint applied via a drop on the end of a pin. Pretty much what I did today on the Astrea. I used my traditional black gundam marker on panel lines, and the 301 Gray and Brown for other areas. Actually the Gray and the Brown did marvelous jobs, spot on if I do say so. I tried to use the 301P black again, but it just wasn't gonna do the job. And when I tried to clean it up and it just smeared all over the place. I guess using the rubbing alcohol after you apply it is best, don't let it dry for to long at all. The base build of my Astrea is done, and I think before bed I'll start finishing the accessories and call it a night. Gym tomorrow so I gotta go to bed to get up early early! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hikuro Posted March 16, 2015 Share Posted March 16, 2015 Went faster than I anticipated....finished it all! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest davidwhangchoi Posted March 16, 2015 Share Posted March 16, 2015 Astea.jpgAstrea_Exia.jpg Went faster than I anticipated....finished it all! YOU ARE FAST Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mog_kupo Posted March 16, 2015 Share Posted March 16, 2015 Since I'm waiting for some Tamiya paint for my MG Nu, I decided to finish a few kits that I had, and then I ran out of Topcoat LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest davidwhangchoi Posted March 17, 2015 Share Posted March 17, 2015 (edited) all these gundam kits look awesome got motivated to start up again to finishing the weapons: the gundam bay is starting to look cool with some weapons to dock: Edited March 17, 2015 by davidwhangchoi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeszekely Posted March 17, 2015 Share Posted March 17, 2015 (edited) I really dig that Gundam bay, but I have no room in my detolfs. I really should go to Ikea and pick up a third... Edited March 17, 2015 by mikeszekely Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nekko Basara Posted March 17, 2015 Share Posted March 17, 2015 Not only is the Strike looking great, but it's fun spotting all the Transformers and stuff hiding in the background ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest davidwhangchoi Posted March 17, 2015 Share Posted March 17, 2015 (edited) not that it's interesting but this is my workspace : i'll put some different back ground stuff later. to the left, cut off from the view is a wall of rg gundams, i look at them to keep me inspired. lol i keep staring at wing zero . Edited March 17, 2015 by davidwhangchoi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest davidwhangchoi Posted March 17, 2015 Share Posted March 17, 2015 (edited) Here's my Skygrasper. Now I am noticing all the spots where decals run over panel lines and look bad! 20150228_204934.jpg20150228_205136.jpg20150228_205237.jpg20150228_205823.jpg hey nekko (or anyone), i was looking at your skygrasper pictures again, can you (or anyone else) post some pics while painting the figures whenever building the next kit? . i'm looking at kira and can't figure out how anyone can paint something so small: Edited March 17, 2015 by davidwhangchoi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeszekely Posted March 17, 2015 Share Posted March 17, 2015 i'm looking at kira and can't figure out how anyone can paint something so small: I don't. For all the models I've built, I keep any extra parts that I'm not displaying (usually stuff like beam saber blades if they're posing with rifles, or rifles if they're posing with beam sabers) in labeled baggies. The RG pilots go into the same baggies. Anyway... a dark shape is buzzing around my MP shelf... It's Psyco Gundam! Since David just built one, I figured Strike would be good for scale (both 1/144). Kira's thinking he needs a bigger knife... MP-10 defends the shelf! Psyco Gundam reluctantly retreats to the detolf. All in all, this was a really fun kit. Since I do HG and RG, I'm usually used to much smaller pieces. Combine that with the fact that Psyco Gundam is still an HG, with the simplicity that entails, and the thing was pretty easy to build even with the transformation gimmicks. The completed kit is also very solid. More than any other kit I've done, I feel more like I built an action figure than a model. Unlike the RG Zeta, transforming the Psyco Gundam is quite doable, although a transformer this is not. It's hands are just tucked into the cavity that you get from opening its torso, and it's legs are mostly kept in place by the friction of the joints. I doubt too many people build this kit for the mobile fortress mode, though. If I did have one complaint, is that the black is very black, with no color separation. This makes a lot of the molded details hard to see. On the whole, though, I'd definitely recommend this kit, and I'm lamenting the fact that they haven't done an HGUC Psyco Gundam Mk-II. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest davidwhangchoi Posted March 17, 2015 Share Posted March 17, 2015 like the little story with the pictures Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nekko Basara Posted March 17, 2015 Share Posted March 17, 2015 hey nekko (or anyone), i was looking at your skygrasper pictures again, can you (or anyone else) post some pics while painting the figures whenever building the next kit? . Actually, as far as the freestanding pilot figures go, I usually just leave them unpainted. I don't feel very confident in my figure-painting abilities, and since I've only seen a few Gundam series, I'm not usually attached to the characters (Hell, even for the shows I have seen, I'm not that attached to most of the pilots). So, I just snip out the area of sprue they're attached to and pop it in a bag with the accessories. Maybe I'll come back to them someday. What I feel I have to paint are any pilots you can see, like in MGs and aircraft. For that task, I think a decent set of cross-locking tweezers is a big help holding the figures, and obviously it's good to have very small brushes. It's also important to keep in mind that what you see with photos or when you're holding it up to your eyeball is much more than you will ever see when it's installed in a model. Details that look blobby and imprecise under close scrutiny will look just fine under normal viewing. Don't try to paint it the same way you would a 6" figure; just get a spot of the right color in the right place, and your brain will fill in a lot of the details. Here are some pics of pilots for two 1/100 Valks and a 1/72 that might give some idea what I mean: (Of course, somebody who's actually good at painting figures might give different advice ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McFly!! Posted March 18, 2015 Share Posted March 18, 2015 Wow! Painting the pilots seems similar to painting on a grain of rice! Great work, nekko! Also lol'd at convoy defending the shelf, mike! Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hikuro Posted March 18, 2015 Share Posted March 18, 2015 only time I ever paint pilot figures are with PG's and MG's.....never go smaller, they're just so damn difficult. you typically need a mounted magnifying glass, tooth picks, very small brushes, tweezers or clips and prayer. When I do mine I typically leave a small amount of runner plastic connected to the pilot figure and I clamp that piece on a clip so I got free range of control and movement while painting. I use these ultra fine brushes I get a hobbytown for about 3 bucks a pack for large base colors. Then I use a tooth pick to do finer details. If it's a PG figurine I'll use one of those really ultra fine brushes that cost like 5 bucks and just work very carefully. I'm not super awesome at it, but I do a passable job to where some of the guys I build with are just surprised. I always thought that my Char and Amuro CCA figures were the best painted, and my Flit Asuno being 2nd best. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest davidwhangchoi Posted March 18, 2015 Share Posted March 18, 2015 (edited) hi, i just got home. oh nice!!! Nekko that's crazy how you got the sms badges on ozma shoulder thanks for the pics and sharing what you guys do. damn. a magnifying glass... that's crazy. Hikuro next time you paint a pg for mg can you take some shots while in the process. just want to see how you guys go about it. i'm guess i better not try it yet... i know EXO does those custom macross mini figures i'm going to ask him as well. he mentioned he may do a video soon.. damn ok, i guess kira's going to stay chalk white... i had the idea everyone on here did the rg pilot figures bc i saw the sky grasper. i was trying to fit in Edited March 18, 2015 by davidwhangchoi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeszekely Posted March 18, 2015 Share Posted March 18, 2015 damn ok, i guess kira's going to stay chalk white... i had the idea everyone on here did the rg pilot figures bc i saw the sky grasper. i was trying to fit in You can still fit in, and with less effort! I don't know about the Skygrasper, since it remains the only RG I haven't bought (because I can't justify $25-$30 for a little plane and some Striker packs). But the rest of the RG kits come with pilots in a standing pose. So, while all the RGs have cockpit doors and seats, the included pilots can't sit in them. That makes them useless for more than displaying next to the model, to give a sense of scale between a human and a mobile suit. Hence why all mine get bagged and stored with the other accessories I'm not using to display the models. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest davidwhangchoi Posted March 18, 2015 Share Posted March 18, 2015 (edited) thanks mike s. in terms of watching you guys, it's been a learning experience as well as finding out i can actually do something model related with the right tips. i sold a bunch of macross stuff on the sales thread to get a few rg gundams. i plan on trying to top coat once the weather gets warm enough outdoors. i got a shipment of RG related bandai premium stuff coming in today, post it when i get a chance. Edited March 18, 2015 by davidwhangchoi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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