Dax415 Posted October 12, 2003 Share Posted October 12, 2003 I was just wondering what was the advantages of each and which one is best for Hasegawa kits. Also, what about Gundam Markers? Are they any good? I tried an acrylic wash with cheaper paints but the pigment seems to be too grainy to do it on a 1/144 kit. I am gonna save up for Tamiya paints either way, but which panel lining method is the best? Thx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mechmaster Posted October 12, 2003 Share Posted October 12, 2003 I guess in part it depends on the overall effect you want to achieve, I tend to use two main methods. If I want a really bold line for a more anime style appearance I ink the lines in with a 0.25mm technical pen. If I am trying for a more realistic appearance I give the whole model a wash of matt varnish with a little black paint added to it, this naturally settles into panel lines and other surface depressions, weathering the whole kit at the same time, needless to say you have to be careful not to overdo it with this method or the model ends up looking too dirty. I haven't gotten around to building any of my Hasegawas yet but given how fine the lines are I will probably use a wash method rather than trying to trace all the lines with a pen which is probably too thick for the job anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TER-OR Posted October 14, 2003 Share Posted October 14, 2003 I generally prefer oils, but am going to try the watercolor method soon. http://www.starshipmodeler.net/cgi-bin/php...pic.php?t=11201 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plastik Missle Posted October 14, 2003 Share Posted October 14, 2003 I've alway used oil color washes over acrylic paints. Works like a charm! It's actually alot easier than it looks. What you do is make very thin oil paint. What I do is put a small bit of oil paint paste (Black, dark grey or any other suitable color. Depends on what effect you want to achieve) and add lots of thinner. Lots. Just daub the solution with a brush on the panel line. Capillary action should carry it along the panel line. Don't worry about being neat, just daub away. Wait for an hour or so, to allow the thinner to evaporate. Then load a bit of toilet paper with thinner and wipe away the excess oil, always wiping perpeniduclar to the panel line (to keep the thinner out of the recesses). Voila! This guys uses an acrylic wash. Haven't tried it yet, but it sounds feasible. http://www.swannysmodels.com/Weathering.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kanata67 Posted October 21, 2003 Share Posted October 21, 2003 I normally go for a combination of drybrushing and washing. I use citadel water based acrylics and can't really comment on other brands, but I think the technique would be the same... Do a base coat/primer of whatever. Paint all your main pieces/panels. Do a drybrush of white or mythryl[bright mettallic]. touch up you main bits and do your detain work. Dry brush again with more delicacy. Either dillute the heck out of a paint/paint mix or use an actual wash/glaze diluted appropriately in the manner described by Plastik Missle. You can also do successive washes as in wash the whole thing with a dilute mixture and as the fluid settles into the natural places dab the highest part of a line with a much less dilute [or evel undiluted depending on what you use] mix of the wash. You aren't really painting hear so much as placing just the tip of a very fine brush in the correct spot and letting the piant flow off and along the panel line. repeated thin washes gives better blending. painting detail between washes gives the look of age contrast between parts. always have whatever you are painting in it's natural position when doing washes... ie if you are washing a 1/55 valk in fighter... have it "standing" on it's boosters so te wash will flow as if push by the air during flight. Do a destroid standing as thats how rain falls... upside down just looks weird. need a destoid to practice on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grayson72 Posted October 21, 2003 Share Posted October 21, 2003 I tried all sorts of combinations of enamels, water colors, acrylic nothing worked right until I used oils, that was the key for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guppy Posted October 22, 2003 Share Posted October 22, 2003 stay away from gundam markers. They suck ass. I use a .2mm felt tip pen, or a mechanical pencil (the ones where you load the lead sticks into). I find gundam markers are way too thick and they don't deliver a steady flow of ink. Using the mechanical pencil to do panel lines looks good if you're after a more subtle effect (like a gray rather than a black) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myersjessee Posted October 22, 2003 Share Posted October 22, 2003 you should search for some of WMChengs older how tos...they go over this process in great detail...very helpful stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitrous Posted October 22, 2003 Share Posted October 22, 2003 Yo Myersjessee, do you have the links to the wmcheng's how tos? I am looking for it, since he built the VF-2 and also the YF-19, am interested on how he did his marvelous panel linings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myersjessee Posted October 23, 2003 Share Posted October 23, 2003 You should be able to find them if you search..might try searching the old forums as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grayson72 Posted October 23, 2003 Share Posted October 23, 2003 Yo Myersjessee, do you have the links to the wmcheng's how tos? I am looking for it, since he built the VF-2 and also the YF-19, am interested on how he did his marvelous panel linings. FYI WM uses oil paints for his panel washes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreatMoose Posted October 24, 2003 Share Posted October 24, 2003 This was done with a mechanical pencil (.5mm). I've got some better pictures, lemme see if I can find 'em... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dyowelb Posted October 24, 2003 Share Posted October 24, 2003 (edited) nitrous, check this link... WM Cheng Previous Works or you can check Rob's site dyowelb Edited October 24, 2003 by dyowelb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kin Posted October 25, 2003 Share Posted October 25, 2003 that weathering process looks nice... I didn't knew about the wax coating that should be first applied on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dax415 Posted October 26, 2003 Author Share Posted October 26, 2003 Great Moose, Wow, that looks really cool with the mechanical pencil. Have you done a step by step on it? Could you do a quick run down on how you painted and detailed the kit? Got more pics? ---Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guppy Posted October 30, 2003 Share Posted October 30, 2003 I'm guessing he used a few pencil shavings and smudged them for the weathering effect? Did you clearcoat the valk after weathering? As pencil markings come off very easily when the toy is handled. And I guess also that the beauty of doing this with pencil is you can erase a mistake! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isamu Atreides 86 Posted October 30, 2003 Share Posted October 30, 2003 on my Patlabor MG's, i use a Pigma Sakura .005 pen. it came out looking alright. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dyowelb Posted October 30, 2003 Share Posted October 30, 2003 isamu, can you post some pix of you Patlabor?? dyowelb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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