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To give an idea of comparison: at the recently run Grand-Am race at Laguna Seca, the GT class cars--fully race prepped cars on slicks, mind you--turned lap times ranging from 1:33.2 to 1:40.5 sec. Now the mods in this class are not too major, as it's a prod based class--but they're still race cars on slicks; and a video game "street" car turning a time w/in 1 sec of the tail end of a race car field? Bulls--t. <_<

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To give an idea of comparison: at the recently run Grand-Am race at Laguna Seca, the GT class cars--fully race prepped cars on slicks, mind you--turned lap times ranging from 1:33.2 to 1:40.5 sec.  Now the mods in this class are not too major, as it's a prod based class--but they're still race cars on slicks; and a video game "street" car turning a time w/in 1 sec of the tail end of a race car field?  Bulls--t.  <_<

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I agree. Forza Motorsport gives a much better gaming/simulation sensation than GT4. at least they have a damage modeling, brake fade modeling, ACTUAL tuning changes...etc.

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I used to be all about following the service manuals for my cars and taking care of every little bit of mechanical work that they needed. I soon learned however, that crap like the Jiffy-Lube b.s. happens more often than we think. I'd rather drive my cars into the ground and see them rot than have them "serviced" by those thieving idiots. The ONLY shop I'm willing to use is over 30 miles away from where I live, but I trust them and that's priceless..

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I do all the work myself, and if i can't do it myself then i take it to my friend who is a Master Mechanic at Nissan, and use the dealerships shop after hours. There's nothing better than knowing exactly what was done to your car.

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Man, s--t like that is enough to make you wanna go into a shop and talk to a guy with your tire iron--especially after you've parted with your hard earned $$.

It's damned if you do, damned if you don't. I guess it'll either be situations like that, or having to deal with jack-legs who nickel and dime you with one-piece-at-a-time repairs. I guess it's a by-product of our litigious society, and the thoughts of "liability" in the back of folks' minds that make it so damned hard to get anybody--in just about any profession--to go beyond doing the bare minimum when it comes to satisfying what they say they'll do or performing what you ask for. They'll just give you what you ask for--just barely a lot of the time--but nothing beyond that.

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Well I might as well post what the original topic was about...what do you drive!

Well I have an 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9 Limited.

Like it's name it has an 5.9L V8 in which is about 245 HP but is a complete torque monster (I forget the # I am an 4 wheeler)

Modifications:

Rubicon Express 4.5 inch lift kit

Rancho 9000X Shocks

33 inch Wrangler MT/R on Wrangler Rubicon rims (got it off of my bro's wrangler before he went a rim size down to put 37's on his Rubicon)

ARB front bumper with 2 Hella off roading lamps

Tomken rear bumper with tire carrier

Wilderness Sports Rack with 4 PIAA offroading lamps, it also has a spot for my Hi-Lift jack

Lights2.jpg

703733_18_full.jpg

Edited by AC Starscream
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i'm really bored at work, so i thought we'd play a game:

NAME THAT CAR!?

We'll start with an easy one

sporty_1.jpg

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That's a:

Veilside "Fortune" wide-body Mazda RX-7 FD3S

Who am I?

crimsoncar0xl.jpg

Edited by ComicKaze
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Ooh! Ooh! It's on the tip of my tongue! Crap, I can't remember! But IIRC, it's got Ford power, and gullwing doors. It was another independent car maker's failed attempt from the late 70's-early 80's a la Delorean?

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Bricklin SV-1 powered by the Ford Windsor 351

Actually the DeLorean came after the Bricklin, and the Bricklin wasn't so much a failure as it was just in too small a production number to be truly profitable.

since we're on gullwing door cars... what's this?

29_1.jpg

Edited by emajnthis
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since we're on gullwing door cars... what's this?

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Toyota Sera

Name this car.

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Damn, you beat me to the Sera by just a few seconds! Actually, it's a funny thing because I saw a Sera parked on the street on the way to school the other day and I'm in Canada!

I guess somebody imported one from Japan.

I have no idea what the car you posted is. Looks like a Hindustan Ambassador or some other 2nd world country car.

Edited by ComicKaze
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It's been a few months since I last mentioned how much I hate deer. They are without a doubt the dumbest creatures on the entire planet. I'm quite certain that the only reason they are not extinct due to their own stupidity and suicidal tendencies, is the fact that they breed like rabbits.

I. HATE. DEER.

We'll know more about the damage once we manage to get the hood open--the latch is wedged under the radiator upper mount. From looking through the big gaps, the air intake seems ok as are the diagonal braces---but I can see some of the air temp/coolant level sensors etc are disconnected. Seems to run fine so far though, amazingly. Air dam's totally messed up, and I suspect the entire front fascia is about 2 inches higher than it was. Plus the obvious radiator and headlight issues.

PS--this is not my car, but a family member's---she wanted me to look at it. Still, it's yet another Pontiac I'm very familiar with (and have driven many times) hit by a suicidal deer in Iowa. I was planning on cleaning the engine bay for her next week, ironically.

Edited by David Hingtgen
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Yeah, but my insurance didn't cover me DODGING a deer yet getting 1,000 rock chips from the gravel I encountered doing so. I just bought some stuff today to start getting ready to fix it. Sigh. (I sure wasn't going to try to start a month-long process of waxing, sanding, polishing and painting during winter or the rainy months)

PS---anyone know if there's anything that can be done for rock chips in the clear coat of a polished aluminum wheel short of flat-out refinishing it professionally? I can't seem to find anything.

My current plan (based on a quick talk with the body shop) is to use cleaner wax and remove as many scratches as I can, just so I can SEE what's a clearcoat scratch and what got down to the color coat and what got down to the primer. (I already primered the spots that got down to the bare metal--easy to spot the glint) Then primering/painting/clearcoating as needed. Then a full-on detailing to see how the car looks.

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The one I dodged is presumably alive--unless it happens to be the one she hit! (It was only a few miles away, but it's been 6 months).

Ironically neither of these incidents had blood, but the time I totally didn't hit a deer did. If a large vehicle hits a deer at high speed, the deer basically vaporizes into a "deer cloud"---basically a blood/flesh mist in the air like a fog. The pickup ahead of me vaporized the deer, and I drove through the "deer cloud". Didn't quite realize what had happened until I saw the blood mist particles condense into drops and and running down the windshield--I decided not to use the wipers, didn't want to spread that across the glass. Even after going to the car wash as soon as I could, I still found bits of deer meat all around the front half--itty bitty stringy bits of flesh--nasty stuff to peel off. I replaced the air filter soon thereafter, as I figured at least some of the blood mist had to have been sucked up.

Did I mention I hate deer?

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I have no idea what the car you posted is. Looks like a Hindustan Ambassador or some other 2nd world country car.

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It's the Nissan Verita, and it's available in South East Asia.

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So it's a Taiwanese made car that liscenses branding from Nissan, made to look like a retro European car along with all that 1950s stuff on the exterior and interior?

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I've been wanting to clean my engine/engine bay for a while, but every single discussion/thread/FAQ on it always comes down to 2 things:

1. Simple Green is corrosive, so don't use it despite everyone/everywhere saying you should.

2. Orange/citrus ones are ALSO bad, and corrode or crystallize, so don't use them either despite everyone/everyone saying use it instead of Simple Green. It keeps coming down to "lesser of two evils" to choose what to use.

Anyone have any comments or experiences in cleaning engines? A few requirements:

1. No pressure washing. I won't dare risk it.

2. Are there any orange/citrus cleaners that DON'T have the "background" smell of Goo-Gone/mineral spirits/varnish/lacquer/gasoline? They almost all smell like orange-scented Goo-Gone to me, not just "orange". And to me mineral spirit/goo-gone smell is very obvious and incredibly lingering, and couldn't stand for my car to smell like that.

3. Have seen a few people say use foaming tire cleaner. Anyone tried that?

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This might sound a bit weird, but i actually did this over the weekend while doing maintenance on the Scooby (easiest maintenance i've ever done BTW). Get a rag, and lightly spray it with WD40 and wipe away. Thin oil wipes thick oil right out, and it leaves everything nice and shiney. You don't have to worry about it being corrosive, and since it's the thinnest oil you can buy it'll disintegrate after driving through a tank of gas.

Only pressure wash parts that are tough to clean and that you can remove from the vehicle like aluminum mounts and stuff, otherwise you might break up some of the cheaper plastic pieces in the engine bay.

Edited by emajnthis
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3.  Have seen a few people say use foaming tire cleaner.  Anyone tried that?

I don't know about cleaners, but I've been trying Armor All's new tire-shine-gel, and I'm pretty happy with it. Heck, the last coating of the stuff on my cars has lasted into a 2nd week, although I'm blessed with warm California weather out here...

armor-all gel

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I personally use Gunk Engine Brite on my Mustang. Works great and leaves no residue, as long as you rinse it out thoroughly. Before that, I used Blue Coral Orange Degreaser, which had no problems.

I also tried Black Magic 2-in-1 Engine Detailer, and I wasn't too impressed by it. Unlike most engine degreasers, Black Magic requires you to have the engine warm (which is pretty risky for some people), then it requires you to run the engine for 15 minutes to dry (which is a waste of gas).

I've read nothing wrong with Simple Green. The reason why you've probably read about corrosion is because people didn't thoroughly rinse out their engines.

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[/img]

What car is this, and more importantly what motor(s) did it use?

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Hmm, let's see. Mercedes logo on bonnet - check. Image name ... c111.jpg -check

That's a Mercedes Benz C111 with 1.8L Wankel Rotary OR 4.8 a straight-5 turbo-Diesel. Depends what year.

Edited by David Hingtgen
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what made the rotary interesting, was that it debuted as a tri-rotary and then again as a quad-rotar producing 350hp. However, like most companies who messed with rotaries, found it to be too much trouble and stuck with the more reliable diesel.

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