Bandai 1/100 Vf-1j Millia Build

[cowie165]

Hi guys

I'm kinda new here and never saw the old MW so I don't know what was there and what wasn't. I'm building the above kit at the moment and thought I might pop a few pics on and hopefully will receive some feedback and produce a nice kit at the end of it all.

The first pic should be what I am aiming for - using a variable kit to make a fixed pose gerwalk.

We're picking things up in the 2nd quarter, with a bit of assembly and maybe half the painting already done. I'm not happy with some of the parts of this kit so I'm chopping and changing a little as I go.

This pic is the business end of the valk. The original seat placement is so far back the pilot would be hard pressed to reach the instrument panel, so I insert a little piece of plastic card, puttied and sanded, and was able to move the seat forward just enough that she doesn't look like a toddler trying to drive a car. The panel lines are a little messy but I don't have a proper rescriber yet. It might end up adding to a weathered look, who knows.

The bicep/shoulder-to-elbow joint is designed to look ok in battroid and gerwalk modes but it will make the forearms stick out at a weird angle, as you can prob see in the first picture. I decided to cut them up and create an angle instead. My 'razor saw' was actually the strip from the bottom of a Cling Wrap box. Once the part was cut, I filled the void with Tamiya putty, inserted a piece of bonsai training wire and superglued the next day. I am happy with the result but better tools would produce a better finish. Perhaps now should be a time to add this is the first aircraft kit I've painted that is bigger than 1/144 scale - I normally do 1/24 autos.

Finally, I've modified the right hand to make it more realistic. This is what it would look like OOB:

After a bit of filing, I came up with:

The sling is made from the foil lid of a sour cream / yoghurt container. I spread some superglue, folded it in half, and once the glue set I cut a thin run of the foil. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out, plus I'll be able to pose the sling once the kit is all done (ie. allow the sling to sag forward).

I'm planning on another very thin spray on the cannon, to help blend the 'UN SPACY'. The weapon looks like it is MIB - I've used a light respray before to help things look a little tired - simulating the paint wearing away from use.

Anyways, that's about all I've got for now. I'm hoping that this thread will make me spend more time on the kit. If you have any pointers for me, please post as feedback is always welcome and I'd like to do the best job I can.

Cheers MWers,

cowie

PS As the gallery seems locked, any pointers on linking images rather than using attachments would be great please. Does everyone here just have them hosted elsewhere?

Edited March 4, 2006 by cowie165

[honneamise]

Hi cowie165 looks promising so far. In these days of Hasegawa kits you don´t see many people tackle these older kits. Still, IMO they are a good base for a decent looking replica, all the more if you decide to build them fixed-pose as you said.

You already noticed the stiff looking arms - I´d have gone with a new rotating joint at one of the engravings on the upper arm segment but your method seems to work as well.

Furthermode I´d suggest you better not let the arm "hang ´round" at the odd angle as seen in the instructions. Better fix the "arm mount" (those 2 hinged plates) at 90degree. Now the shoulders may interfere with the wings - maybe you have to move their mounting points further up so the whole arm will be moved downwards a bit. While at it you could sand down the ugly round "spacer part" at the inner shoulders - they have no purpose in any mode other than ruining the overall look!

As you don´t need transformation, you should also consider to leave out all the hinges that add so much thickness between the chest plate and the air intakes. Ok you cannot skip the "intake lip" part (the one that can slide back and forth for the different modes) but you can sand it to a more decent thickness. The metal parts will not be needed - you can replace them with much thinner plastic strips. The whole Gerwalk will look more elegant if this area is thinner!

These are just my two cents- I´ve always wanted to build this model in fixed mode but never had the time so this is just theory.....

Edited March 4, 2006 by honneamise

[big F]

Great to see one of these kits being built. I have the Max variant of this kit, which im partway through.

I though the same as you build it as a Gerwalk fixed pose. The arms and hands bothered me to. I was going to mod them like you have. Aloso I was looking at eaither glueing or leaving out the hinges as well as they just bullk up the kit.

This was meant to be a quick diversion from Hasegawa kits but has taken just as long so far. The weather has stopped me painting so far, and seeing you do this has made me just want to get on with it.

Damm!!! Should have thought of using Bonsai training wire. I have loads of it in my potting shed and loads more actually on my Bonsai.

Edited March 4, 2006 by big F

[cowie165]

Guys thanks very much for your input. I have a few Hasegawa kits but wanted to start with something 'easier'!? So I thought... well I bought it when HLJ was selling them at Y900 or whatever it was, rather than the US$30 they seem to sell for these days...!

honneamise thanks for the pointers - I hadn't considered leaving out/replacing those parts. I think my next task should be a dry assembly by taping all the arms and legs together, just to help me clarify which parts you are talking about!

big F I wish you hadn't said the 1/100 takes as long as the 1/72 Hase kits! The Bandai has been a real test of patience, with lots of masking etc. I'm not looking forward to assembling the arms and legs and taking the seam lines out...

If you guys have any ideas on how I might be able to splay the legs out I'd appreciate it. There just doesn't seem to be any way to do it without either filing off a great deal from the top of the mounting pin or to scratchbuild something. Hrmmm.

Cheers!

[cowie165]

edit: double post

Edited March 7, 2006 by cowie165

[big F]

big F I wish you hadn't said the 1/100 takes as long as the 1/72 Hase kits! The Bandai has been a real test of patience, with lots of masking etc. I'm not looking forward to assembling the arms and legs and taking the seam lines out...

If you guys have any ideas on how I might be able to splay the legs out I'd appreciate it. There just doesn't seem to be any way to do it without either filing off a great deal from the top of the mounting pin or to scratchbuild something. Hrmmm.

Cheers!

376843[/snapback]

I wouldnt worry too much I take ages to build all my kits. Even if it had two parts and was painted one colour It would still take me ages.

As far as the legs are concerned I was looking at a simple way to do just that. One that doesnt involve much or any scratch building. I will of post here if I have any brainwaves.

[honneamise]

Sorry for all my lengthy explanations without clarifying what parts I actually mean... but here come the pics, they are from a VF-1D but the parts are the same anyway.

Hope this is clear now. As for the leg angle I´d say you don´t really need those leg attachment parts (A5, A6) any more if you build the model static. You COULD just glue the leg flat on in an angle you like.... the problem seems to be that the air intakes should be parallel in GERWALK mode and the moveable joints only allow upward/downward movement of the legs. What you need is a slightly spreaded look.

Perhaps it will be sufficient to leave out some polycaps at the "knee" joints (I´m speaking of the polycaps that go into B33/34/35/36) so that you can still adjust the lower legs to the right/left sides - the joints will not be very tight after this so maybe you will have to glue all the parts together but I guess you were going for a static display model anyway. At least it won´t take forever....

OK a modeler can change EVERY kit from a weekend project into a lifetime challenge. ... don´t get discouraged, just do what you feel cou can (and want to) do, the model will STILL look good without all this work put into it.

[cowie165]

The pictures did say a thousand words! Thanks honneamise, we're on the same sheet of music now.

I agree - that plate under the chest plate is causing the kit to look unrealistic. It's on the list for tidying up now!

Leaving the polycaps out sounds like the way to go, I thought about that one the other day too. Not quite sure on how to fill the area thought. Perhaps I could putty that end of the knee joint and drill out new holes for the mounting pin?

Unfortunately, I think I'm stuck with the shoulder plates as I modified that 'bicep' bracket but did not keep it poseable - if I make it 90' then the forearms will probably look a little goofy - have to dry assemble and see. Perhaps with a few more parts assembled I'll have a clearer idea on a way around this.

Thanks again for the pointers guys, your advice has been very motivating!

[cowie165]

Being a dad makes for slow progress

I'm still not sure if I'll mount the gerwalk on an acrylic rod or let it stand by itself. I added these nuts+silicon just in case I want it to stand. Regardless, it makes for a better 'feel' and isn't quite as plasticky.

Here's some assorted parts that are just about ready to be fitted. I'm not 100% happy with the booster-cannon colours (cannon in metaliser, mount in german grey). Is it even called a booster? It has been a while.

Assorted pics. honneamise I tried and tried to thin that area near the intakes but couldn't come up with a worthwhile solution. I'm hoping that filing it all back to a single smooth surface will make it less eye-catching.

This pic hopefully highlights the difference between the out-of-box left arm (right of screen) and the right arm where I deliberately broke the bicep joint so I can rotate it.

...nearly there...

[big F]

Looking good. I may have to do the nuts in the legs thing, as they are a bit fall over happy.

[nightmareB4macross]

Cowie,

With all the extra weight in the legs, wouldn't it be rather difficult to maintain legs in an up position in fighter mode?

BTW - Nice job on the paint. What red are you using?

[aaajin]

just wondering, how big is this model actually? any comparison shots with any yamato valks would be appreciated.

[honneamise]

It came out very well so far, I like the way you are finishing it, the toned-down red, be it canon or not, helps avoiding any toy-like look to it. From what I see in the pics I´d say the way you build the kit makes it look proportionally correct.

The weights are a good idea unless you want to put them up in fighter mode - it won´t tip over that way. Considering the booster (the whole set of additional grey parts are the FAST packs but they are in fact a combination of boosters and additional weaponry), I find the colours used perfectly fitting, german grey is correct to me. Don´t know if there are any "canon" colour prescriptions but you usually see those parts painted in a darker grey, sometimes a little blueish, sometimes even greenish and on the old box arts by Y.Takani they sometimes appear more brownish - I like all those colours as long as they make a fitting contrast to the colour of the Valk.

I´d really like to see it with the legs attached- and don´t worry about slow progress - I still haven´t managed to finish a single kit in 2006 and I haven´t even got a child!

Aajin the model is 1/100 scale and it should be a little under half the size of a Yamato, about a good handful of plastic.

[cowie165]

Cowie,

With all the extra weight in the legs, wouldn't it be rather difficult to maintain legs in an up position in fighter mode?

BTW - Nice job on the paint. What red are you using?

401361[/snapback]

Thanks for the kind words.

Re: Paint

I was stuck for a colour I liked so I pre-shaded with enamel XF-63 (German Grey) then I lightly sprayed acrylic X-7 (regular, boring old Red) until I felt the shade matched some pictures I have.

Pre-shading is such a great technique. First time I've tried it and I like the results. You can pre-shade to make it darker in areas where you'd expect shadow, etc. and (as the pics are awful res) the kit looks like it has a lot more 'depth' to it.

Re: Legs

The kit was purchased to be a gerwalk as I've slowly picked up the 'better' fixed pose kits (Arii 1/100 fighters, Imai/Bandai 1/100 Battroids). Once all the parts are assembled, I'll probably mount it on an acrylic rod and then glue the arms and legs into a realistc pose.

I managed to file away enough plastic around the intakes to afford a noticeable splay on the legs and widen the stance. In the pic below hopefully you can see (once again, sorry about poor res, taken on handycam) where I rotated the intake mounting pic. I understand that the intakes don't actually move but I was stuck for ideas as the knee joints didn't have a nice place to make a pivot joint.

[Berttt]

Nice to see this progressing Cowie, we'll have to catch up one time so I can see it

Cheers,

Berttt

[cowie165]

It came out very well so far, I like the way you are finishing it, the toned-down red, be it canon or not, helps avoiding any toy-like look to it. From what I see in the pics I´d say the way you build the kit makes it look proportionally correct.

Thank you mate. As one of the people that first helped me out, your praise means a lot. Cheers.

...the whole set of additional grey parts are the FAST packs but they are in fact a  combination of boosters and additional weaponry...

Far out. That was a forehead slapper. I completely forgot

I find the colours used perfectly fitting, german grey is correct to me. Don´t know if there are any "canon" colour prescriptions but you usually see those parts painted in a darker grey, sometimes a little blueish, sometimes even greenish and on the old box arts by Y.Takani they sometimes appear more brownish - I like all those colours as long as they make a fitting contrast to the colour of the Valk.

Thank you again. This is my first sci-fi kit ever and therefore my first Macross kit. The VF-1 and the Mk IX Spitfire in one of the pics are the only aircraft I've built that are >1/144 scale Suffice to say, I was shooting from the hip, so I appreciate the reassurance!

[cowie165]

Nice to see this progressing Cowie, we'll have to catch up one time so I can see it

Cheers,

Berttt

401398[/snapback]

Thanks mate! Sounds like a plan. I'm still envious of your VF-1 with the boosters from CA. It looks awesome.

And I'm sorry I haven't replied to your email yet. The two spares are both Quiltra-Queleual.

[aaajin]

awesome work my man....I worked on a 1/100 vf-2ss and just dont have the iniciative to finish it...you are a patient person..

aaajin

[cowie165]

Cool, my first Macross kit is in the can.

Also first time taking pics in direct sunlight - it is unforgiving (*cough* still visible seam line on left forearm *cough*)! Kinda bummed it makes the matte appear satin, I'll have to work on photography as I go. I felt the paintwork turned out alright but you can clearly make out spot like along the cockpit where the BMF masking didn't come away as nicely as hoped.

The changes were to splay the legs, rework the bicep joints, reshape right hand to grasp the weapon, fit seatbelts and rifle sling and move the ejection seat forward as mentioned earlier.

Boy o boy there is a lot of masking to do for this kit. I went a bit bezerk with weathering as I was trying chalk and other washes for the first time (I usually built 1/24 cars which are all high gloss weathering-free!). I like the end result as I tried to simulate a bit of battle damage here and there, using needle files, corrosive glues, and pastels. I like the difference between the UN SPACY rifle decal in the post near the top versus how it turned out in the end. I faded it and chipped at the decal with an exacto.

I tried to colour the cockpit a slight gold hue. In the flesh, it looks reasonable, but it isn't quite strong (dark) enough and without the coat of future it makes the plastic seem like it was made in 1982. The rifle, tip of the booster cannon, and booster exhaust flanges are still gloss. I don't know if I'll leave them that way, but I wanted to see what it looked like. I left a few missles off the rails as though it was in the middle of something, rather than on its way to fight. I assumed the outboard weapons would be fired first. *shrug*

All in all, I'm pleased with the finished kit. I was able to try new techniques and finally have a Macross kit on the shelf. I'd say the kit is an intermediate level, based on the instructions being almost useless and the amount of dry-fitting and planning you have to do. I would recommend it as I like the proportions of the gerwalk but you'll need to be patient with it.

And hey thanks for taking a look, please hit me up with ways I can make it better next time. Honneamise I tried to tidy up the intake/hip joint as best I could, but ran out of patience and pressed on I put the last pic in just because it looks neat - kinda like a CGI VF-1, but also because you can see the splayed legs a little better.

Disclaimer: For the rivet counters out there, I wasn't too stressed over making it match DYRL. The Bandai decal instructions were horrible. There were decals that weren't used and others that I needed but were absent, so I kinda guessed here and there using other references. If it makes you wince, I apologise

Edited September 28, 2006 by cowie165

[cowie165]

ps: I finally have an avatar

Edited September 28, 2006 by cowie165

[jardann]

Great job on that kit and great avatar!

There are things I like and things I hate on those kits. All in all I think they are better than either of the 1/100 fixed pose battloid or gerwalk kits. The mods you did help a lot and your paint job is really good too. Thanks for walking us through the build. It's always fun to watch a kit come together!

[Hiriyu]

Nice, Cowie! I have a 1/100 Max Variable that I've been thinking about doing something with, and you've given me some inspiration. Thanks for posting up the build process

[Berttt]

Hey Cowie, nice job man. I used to have one of those 1/100 and you are a braver man than I am. I just cheat and go for the Hasegawa kits

You can see a lot of work has gone into that one to get it to that standard.

I tip my hat to you Sir! Can't wait to see your next kit.

Cheers,

Berttt

[big F]

Nice work man Well I re got out my Max today and in between my 1/55 bits drying and such Im doing some work on the 1/100. When (eventually) Im done I`ll post here so you can do a comparison.

Edited September 28, 2006 by big F

[cowie165]

Guys thank you all very much for the kind words. The kit looks nice on the shelf but the pics almost made me not put it on MW

I'd love to see more guys have a crack at the old Bandai kits. I'll keep practicing on them before I move onto the Hase stuff in the closet.

Berttt thanks for your post. I've seen your 1/72 work so your praise means a great deal, cheers.

Once I finish off the Nissan Silvia I'm working on, I'm planning to have a go at the Imai 1/100 VF-1D and CF fighter kits.

Mark

PS Any guesses at a good paint colour for the CF? I have H346 (Rough Sand) and it looks close, but wondering if any other paints were better suited?

[Maxtype]

Guys thank you all very much for the kind words. The kit looks nice on the shelf but the pics almost made me not put it on MW

I'd love to see more guys have a crack at the old Bandai kits. I'll keep practicing on them before I move onto the Hase stuff in the closet.

Berttt thanks for your post. I've seen your 1/72 work so your praise means a great deal, cheers.

Once I finish off the Nissan Silvia I'm working on, I'm planning to have a go at the Imai 1/100 VF-1D and CF fighter kits.

Mark

PS Any guesses at a good paint colour for the CF? I have H346 (Rough Sand) and it looks close, but wondering if any other paints were better suited?

Great work Cowie!It is great not only seeing that older Bandai kit,but seeing it finished as well...awesome.I've also wondered at a Cannon Fodder color that wpould be close to how they look on the Animeigo DVD's.Has anyone out there made a GERWALK out of Hasegawa parts?

[ChaosWarrior]

I must say, you got yourself a nice model and avatar.

ChaosWarrior

[Chas]

You mean like this?

[cowie165]

I must say, you got yourself a nice model and avatar.

ChaosWarrior

Thanks CW!

As an aside, I played GW tabletop for quite a few years! Or is your avatar from the Hero Quest board game?

[mojacko]

wow ur work is really nice....sorry if this was ask b4...was it handpainted??? or airbrush!!! nice work on the model....a vf1j MAX would be nice for ur next proj!!!

[cowie165]

Thanks mojacko. All airbrushed I avoid handpainting like the plague for everything except figures.

The main colour is Tamiya acrylic X-7 Red over preshaded XF-63 German Grey. The colours used on the Bandai instructions seemed far too bright and would make it look very toy like. Same goes for the blue boosters and FAST pack. The boosters here are also XF-63.

The white strips are all painted (except for the cockpit side because I forgot about it...) rather than decal, with the SDF/Macross roundel cut out from the decal sheet.

You know, a matching Max gerwalk would be very cool. Cheers for the suggestion!

[cowie165]

I found a few more pics that aren't too bad. I was trying out pastels for the first time. As I read later on, don't bother trying to apply over a gloss coat - matte all the way

By the way, for the guys that have this kit on the shelf, I highly recommend placing weighted legs onto your 'must do' list. The kit doesn't feel too much like a plastic model and is at absolutely no risk of toppling.

[Maxtype]

You mean like this?

Yeah,man!That looks great!How many pieces are left over from the fighter and Battroid kits?

[Hiriyu]

I really dig that rear 3/4 pic of the gerwalk Cowie. Will take your suggestion on the weighting of the legs, as soon as I can get around to a build-up....

[ChaosWarrior]

Thanks CW!

As an aside, I played GW tabletop for quite a few years! Or is your avatar from the Hero Quest board game?

You're welcome!

Yes, that's correct, hence my nick.

ChaosWarrior