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pengbuzz

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Everything posted by pengbuzz

  1. Okay...roll your saving throw vs. unframed art.
  2. Speaking of ships, an update on the Yamato- Redid the entire "wooden" portion of the deck in tape strips to mimic planking on the gun decks: Also, some work on the engine nozzle and the keel between the secondary engines (still needs some smoothing, as soon as the tape sets): And a bit of repair work: the plastic around the aerial on the bottom of the hull was getting a bit mushy, so I removed the aerial and then removed the mushy plastic so I could make a "plug" to glue in that would be much more solid. But before I did that, I took the liberty of adding some hot glue to the front of the hull via the hole, so that the ship wasn't so horribly overbalanced towards the aft: Stay tuned folks....
  3. Keep that up and I'll build a flying turret for ya! O.o More like the "UES Ridiculous" O.O
  4. You do have a point... I can imagine Wile E. Coyote in the seat when that happens.
  5. If that mech is crashing, I wouldn't even give the warranty being online a hope! O.o
  6. Yeah, but the kinetic energy from the impact would not be fun, to say the least...
  7. C'mon Goose! When did that ever stop you? You had a great career on ER, and even got to be Brains on the live action Thunderbirds movie!!!
  8. With no cure (hopefully! ).
  9. Alternate take: it ejects them straight into the backplate, splattering them. O.o *excellent motivation to not put yourself into a position where you have to eject!*
  10. Thanks! I'll have further updates in a bit. I still need to do some custom work on the engine nozzle, the underside and considering some rigging perhaps. Just need to see what I can do here! (please tell me that "Great Yamato" is a joke, right? lol ) As to the cutters working better when cutting slowly: at the microscopic level, you're applying pressure to a metal v-shaped wedge (the blade), trying to push it through the plastic material. When you try to do it fast, the plastic will tend to tear and break as it cannot move aside fast enough. With a slower, more even pressure, the plastic will move around the blade and separate more cleanly. You also take less risk in bending the blade cutting slowly.
  11. Thanks Thom! I saw those on the 2199 version and thought they'd make a good addition!
  12. Sorry for the delay folks: had to deal with an idiot "maintenance man", then I scalded my left hand with boiling water while making dinner. 😱 As promised, pics- Moved the front turret a bit forward: Cut and redid the bow and inlet the launch bays: Front gun deck redone; I filled in the "inset/ stepped section" just in front of the second turret and "swooped" it up as seen in most of the other versions:: Put a faux wood finish on the stand and rebuilt it from "side plug in" to a cradle to hold the ship: At this point, I was unhappy with the aft section of the Yamato; I ended up cutting off 75 percent of it and filling it in/ building it up with heavy styrene place and hot melt glue.: I added masking tape to finish the hull section and smooth it out: I also added a new rear deck to the part just under the big turret, and added extended sections along the sides. Not to mention: fabricating and installing new secondary engine nacelles and ventral strakes: Where the project stands so far: Cut, inset and filed/ polished a clear piece of styrene for the Captain's quarters: While it was my original intention to build the first version of the Yamato, my plan now is to build an idealized one with the features I like the best from the varying versions. Special thanks and shout out to @Thom for sending me this kit! Stay tuned folks...
  13. Okay...a few shots before I do a full post on this one later this morning: And yeah: it was a royal pain to cut, glue and file a clear piece of plastic into place on the Captain's quarters: Don't go away!... Space Battleship Yamato/ StarBlazers will be right back after these important pengbuzz messages...
  14. Er...I think you're probably thinking about FLCL rather than Macross...
  15. Basically, I agree with Thom and nighrmareB4macross: As they said: if you mist a light coat of white over that and then pick out various panels and do them in differing shades of white/ grey, it would remove the circuit board effect. I had a similar result on mine when I did the tiny panels in paint and had to do that. Don't get discouraged, tekkering: it's just a small speed-bump on the road to the Macross you always wanted. Been there, done that, ate the t-shirt.
  16. Man, that sucks! Is there anything you can do to fix them?
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