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pengbuzz

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Everything posted by pengbuzz

  1. pengbuzz
    Just plain WOW AND A HALF!!! You really have a knack for detailing and weathering! *picks jaw up off of floor*
  2. pengbuzz
    REALLY nice job on this, Photogirl!! Just blown away with the detailing and weathering!!
  3. pengbuzz
    Don Matthys used to make replacement parts for both the D as well as the Refit/A, but he passed away some time ago. :( Not sure if anyone took up his molds and whatnot, as I don't frequent Starship modeler as much as I used to.
  4. pengbuzz
    Try spraying some primer to see what you actually have left to fill.
  5. pengbuzz
    Sigh...if Dana ever landed head first on the ground, she's be stuck there with all the pointy stuff on her helmet.
  6. pengbuzz
    Steve Jobs haunting us from beyond the grave...aka "Ghost In The Machine: Silicon Valley Complex"
  7. pengbuzz
    Went back to look at older posts and saw I didn't fully answer your qeustion! OOPS!!! I used the post connection that came with the Bandai over-engineered VF-1S kit, and simply drilled a square hole (reinforced to take the post) for it to slip into. Kind of a pain though; I should have done the swing-bar instead like Yamato. Maybe someday i'll get a 1/60 when my ship comes in (and doesn't sink on the way! )
  8. pengbuzz
    You're doing fine so far; it's going to need a lot of surface prep to remove those engraved panels, so just let the process "be the process" and work to get it finished. Take it slow and don't rush to complete any sections. if you need to, take some time off for a little bit and switch to another project. Mine is still in primer and re-re-reworking!
  9. pengbuzz
    On those pylons, you're going to want at least an epoxy to glue them into place (trust me on this). And when you do, you may want to set this so that after gluing the pylons (but before they cure) you can align the warp engines so they don't go in weird directions and adjust the pylons as they cure. Those tabs and the plastic they slide into are not very strong, so REINFORCE THE HELL out of them before you commit. You'll be doing yourself and the model a huge favor.
  10. pengbuzz
    Do yourself a HUGE favor: get a polyester-based filler and fill the panel lines that you don't want. If you try sanding all that off, you're going to be there forever, not to mention you'll run the risk of sanding off detail and drastically changing the shape of the hull. Ask the gang here for a good suggestion on filler putty.
  11. pengbuzz
    The blue stuff I think has more polymers in it, plus that annoying ORANGE scent. You may as well be using Elmer's Glue for all the good it will do you. lol I like the liquid cements for certain procedures and tube for others; for tough jobs (like fixing my VF-1S yesterday after the arms snapped off at the bicep rotators! O.o ), I prefer Devcon Plastic Weld. I can literally build parts out of it (two part epoxy like system).
  12. pengbuzz
    I'm sorry, but while the design of the Top Gun/ Transformers x-over figure looks okay, the paint job looks like Maverick did a barrel roll through dog crap. O.o I mean, I know it's supposed to be a dog fighter but really...this is taking it a bit far...
  13. pengbuzz
    Still use that.
  14. pengbuzz
    Yeah, i went "all-out" and actually reshaped hull parts. I even widened the pylons and redesigned the pylon/secondary hull connection.
  15. pengbuzz
    Huh...wouldn't it be something if they actually found a way to link up to MII?
  16. pengbuzz
    I have a 1/537 that I'm STILL trying to finish:
  17. pengbuzz
    Or someone like the Marduk, if you're into Macross II.
  18. pengbuzz
    I built about 20 of those or so during my lifetime (kept trying to get it right!) and I absolutely HATED the tab system for the nacelles! In fact, there's an entire build on starshipmodeler's main site that someone took and corrected most of the flaws: http://www.starshipmodeler.com/trek/cz_ertl_refit.htm I REALLY wish they'd resize the 1/350 down to a 1/537-size version!
  19. pengbuzz
    Grimlock?
  20. pengbuzz
    Try putting the parts in the freezer overnight, then take them out and carefully work along the seam lines. They should pop apart.
  21. pengbuzz
    Well, if you wanted to, you could always reprint the decals for these, strip the model parts and do a rebuild on it. Dunno if you would consider it worthwhile or not though, but it would be interesting. The factory itself looks like it wouldn't need that much; just some touchup in a couple of areas.
  22. pengbuzz
    Yeah, I remember the Yellow Submarine ones; solid resin. I'd love to get my hands though on a Hasegawa Storm Attacker TV version and do a transform for it. By the looks of it, should be possible.
  23. pengbuzz
    Peter, I think you've got a LOT to be proud of with your work! You've come a long way since your models at 10 years old, and the experience and skill you've gained shows tremendously in your work!
  24. pengbuzz
    I think for the TV series it's in the center, and for DYRL, it's the leg (I believe folks with differing ideas did DYRL).
  25. pengbuzz
    Just do a wash over the parts and it should hide any overhangs just fine.
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